Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: gsizoli on 12 October 2009, 20:26:07
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Hi!
Does anybody has any information related to K&N air filters?Any problem, any positive or neagtive experience? (power, fuel cons, doesn't cause any prob to MAF in long period?, etc)
Br
Zoli
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I've heard that the oil from the filter knackers the MAF.
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standard vx or maybe a green cotton panel filter works seem to work best on omega's mate. :y
cone filters tend too draw too much hot air from the engine bay. :'(
the oil that you spray onto a k&n filter can cause big problems with the hot wire in the maf. :'(
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As Elite Pete said.
But also, why bother?
The original filter is big enough to allow an unrestricted
airflow to your engine, it filters the air just as well
and it's cheaper.
Why pay good money to fix something that ain't broke?
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Yep, standard Vx filter :y
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Only thing you will get with a different filter is more induction noise.
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Slightly different animal, but the K&N panel filter on my Carlton is much better than the standard offering from GM...........
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Only thing you will get with a different filter is more induction noise.
And increased fuel consumption (assuming the ECU corrects for the extra air coming in).
The above of course only applies if the OP is talking about a performance filter, rather than the direct replacement option.
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for the extra air coming in). ......
That's assuming you do. It's generally accepted that you can't do any better than the OE airfilter & housing, especially as it's feeding cold air from outside rather than warm air from under the bonnet.
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The best way to modify the air intake on an omega is take out the airbox, remove the grille and pull out the plastic ducting that goes from the box intake hose to the middle of the grill just infront of the radiator (where the air can get rather hot! ::) ) put the box back in and reroute the flexible hose from it down behind the headlight to the small grilles next to the foglights (where the air is nice and cool :) ).
Feedback seems to be the standard Vx filter panels do an ok job when renewed on time.
As for cones, unless you rout it properly to a space with cold air (like next behind the foglight grille) you keep getting hot air so don't get anymore power, just more noise. But it is a nice noise.
Haven't had any troubles with the MAF as of yet but then the cone wasn't on for that long and it had been used before so probably wasn't as oily as a new one.
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for the extra air coming in). ......
That's assuming you do. It's generally accepted that you can't do any better than the OE airfilter & housing, especially as it's feeding cold air from outside rather than warm air from under the bonnet.
Thats what I thought untill I looked to where the intake pipe goes to. About an inch infront of the radiator! :-/
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Only thing you will get with a different filter is more induction noise.
And increased fuel consumption (assuming the ECU corrects for the extra air coming in).
The above of course only applies if the OP is talking about a performance filter, rather than the direct replacement option.
Not true either, I found my MPG went up about 5%.
If its getting hot air the AIT will reduce the fueling to suit the thinner air, so its hardly going to reduce fuel economy, just performance.
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...... About an inch infront of the radiator! :-/
So when you're moving your ducting will get the air first. If it was an inch behind .... then you'd have a point! ;) ;) ;) :y
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for the extra air coming in). ......
That's assuming you do. It's generally accepted that you can't do any better than the OE airfilter & housing, especially as it's feeding cold air from outside rather than warm air from under the bonnet.
I wouldn't dispute that for one minute.
Simple fact is that the manufacturer invested £ millions in the design, and none of us are going to make a better job of it as a general rule.
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for the extra air coming in). ......
That's assuming you do. It's generally accepted that you can't do any better than the OE airfilter & housing, especially as it's feeding cold air from outside rather than warm air from under the bonnet.
I wouldn't dispute that for one minute.
Simple fact is that the manufacturer invested £ millions in the design, and none of us are going to make a better job of it as a general rule.
:y :y :y exactly
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Only thing you will get with a different filter is more induction noise.
When I was a lad we just took off the air filter to get a nice induction noise, maybe a bit of mesh stuck across the top of the carb, but no filter, still, it sounded good...... :D :D :D
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Only thing you will get with a different filter is more induction noise.
When I was a lad we just took off the air filter to get a nice induction noise, maybe a bit of mesh stuck across the top of the carb, but no filter, still, it sounded good...... :D :D :D
You had a carb on your horse & cart? :o :o ;D ;D
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Only thing you will get with a different filter is more induction noise.
When I was a lad we just took off the air filter to get a nice induction noise, maybe a bit of mesh stuck across the top of the carb, but no filter, still, it sounded good...... :D :D :D
You had a carb on your horse & cart? :o :o ;D ;D
If you want to improve speed then just remove the tow bar from your horse and leave the cart behind, SORTED ;D.
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The best way to modify the air intake on an omega is take out the airbox, remove the grille and pull out the plastic ducting that goes from the box intake hose to the middle of the grill just infront of the radiator (where the air can get rather hot! ::) ) put the box back in and reroute the flexible hose from it down behind the headlight to the small grilles next to the foglights (where the air is nice and cool :) ).
Again, when moving, the air is nice and cold and more importantly, the rad sections create an air restriction so you get a high pressure spot just about where the intake starts :y
This air flow business is complex stuff!
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for the extra air coming in). ......
That's assuming you do. It's generally accepted that you can't do any better than the OE airfilter & housing, especially as it's feeding cold air from outside rather than warm air from under the bonnet.
I wouldn't dispute that for one minute.
Simple fact is that the manufacturer invested £ millions in the design, and none of us are going to make a better job of it as a general rule.
Not sure if I agree with this statement, although they spend large amounts of money, they are still governed by price/reliability/economy/emissions/performance etc; Therefore, the standard solution may not be the best for performance, but the best compromise for the above mentioned factors.
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Not sure if I agree with this statement, although they spend large amounts of money, they are still governed by price/reliability/economy/emissions/performance etc; Therefore, the standard solution may not be the best for performance, but the best compromise for the above mentioned factors.
.. but there's no emissions / economy benefit in strangling the intake of an engine or feeding it warm air.
On the other hand, car buyers do compare BHP figures between models so a manufacturer won't lose significant amounts of power from their "pub figure" for the sake of a bit of plastic ducting.
It may have been the case with older cars that you could change parts like this and gain significant power, but manufacturers these days are much more on the ball IME.
Kevin
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Not sure if I agree with this statement, although they spend large amounts of money, they are still governed by price/reliability/economy/emissions/performance etc; Therefore, the standard solution may not be the best for performance, but the best compromise for the above mentioned factors.
.. but there's no emissions / economy benefit in strangling the intake of an engine or feeding it warm air.
On the other hand, car buyers do compare BHP figures between models so a manufacturer won't lose significant amounts of power from their "pub figure" for the sake of a bit of plastic ducting.
It may have been the case with older cars that you could change parts like this and gain significant power, but manufacturers these days are much more on the ball IME.
Kevin
I still disagree, I can see your point. But I don't agree. The performance figures on every car are a compromise between economy/comfort and reliable (amongst other factors). Saying it has a million BHP may impress some, but they may well reduce the BHP to get the economy or into a different road tax band.
For example....
I can take a standard car brand new off the forecourt, rolling road it and get lets say 100bhp.
If I then take it for a remap and RR it again, I would expect the bhp would has risen (or why would you bother?).
If I then lost the remap, but stuck a performance exhaust on and RR'd it again, I'd expect a performance increase.
Under your reasoning, the manufacturer would already have the best parts on as they spend loads on development so neither of these would change anything. But they do.
Thus the modified car scene would just turn into air-fix kits and blue LED's etc;
(Sorry for the hi-jack)
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right oh, problems started. not sure its due to k&n but ill do my best to exlain as one reading has been like this since ive had the car. in the morning starts instantly, after work turn the key, it starts(but has stalled again, like the old vauxs did when starting from hot) but runs rough as a badgers ass at about 300 rpm. blip it picks up fine then ticks nornally. intake temp has always been high eg air temp=16c, intake temp=39c. but now code 110 has made itself known. is it tech 2 able or is it in the flowmeter. it odd because the intake temp varies but hasnt changed from the old vaux filter. 420, 430 are back, but thats ok cause i missed having them! maf on tick over 2.5-3.00G/S? is it right?
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For example....
I can take a standard car brand new off the forecourt, rolling road it and get lets say 100bhp.
If I then take it for a remap and RR it again, I would expect the bhp would has risen (or why would you bother?).
If I then lost the remap, but stuck a performance exhaust on and RR'd it again, I'd expect a performance increase.
Under your reasoning, the manufacturer would already have the best parts on as they spend loads on development so neither of these would change anything. But they do.
That's not quite what I meant. My reasoning is that a manufacturer these days will set the design point at 100 bhp and you'll find that quite a few changes need to be made to get significantly above that level, because the designer these days has tools available to him to optimise the design, and they'll be giving little away due to the need to meet emissions limits, have a competitive CO2 figure, etc.
They won't fit valves that are large enough for 150 BHP, and heads that will flow enough for 150 BHP without porting, and cams that will give 150 BHP with a little head work and a better exhaust. They might have done in the past but to have bigger ports than absolutely necessary, or a more lairy cam, will give them an emissions penalty, so it simply won't happen.
Kevin