Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Blackie_No1 on 11 November 2009, 18:54:50
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. . . Which is intake air temperature voltage low, does this mean the intake air temp sensor is donald ducked?
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more like a bad wire, clean plug etc.
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Sweet, will give it a go, cheers ears
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Or the front multiram and air temp sensor plugs are fitted the wrong way round.
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Or the front multiram and air temp sensor plugs are fitted the wrong way round.
Really? Would this not throw up two codes or affect performance?
How can I tell which plug is which?
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Have found out what iscausing it, the previous owner has changed the resistor in the maf to fool the car into thinking the air is colder than it is to make it faster?
I would imagine this would be bad as it effectively means the auto choke is on full time running rich and not faster?
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Nyone agree with me?
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Nyone agree with me?
Yep, absolutely.
Removing the bodges and fitting known good replacements is always a good start :y
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Generally peak power can be achieved by running a little bit rich (and on an engine that is close to self destructing running rich can reduce combustion temperatures).
The team that programmed/mapped the ECU at the factory would have been trying to achieve the optimum emissions/economy/performance. Forcing rich running by breaking the air temperature sensor seems an absurd thing to do.
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Generally peak power can be achieved by running a little bit rich (and on an engine that is close to self destructing running rich can reduce combustion temperatures).
The team that programmed/mapped the ECU at the factory would have been trying to achieve the optimum emissions/economy/performance. Forcing rich running by breaking the air temperature sensor seems an absurd thing to do.
but if sensors bodged, ecu will see the extra fuelling from lamda feedback, and trim it back...
so resistor bodges are utterly pointless
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Generally peak power can be achieved by running a little bit rich (and on an engine that is close to self destructing running rich can reduce combustion temperatures).
The team that programmed/mapped the ECU at the factory would have been trying to achieve the optimum emissions/economy/performance. Forcing rich running by breaking the air temperature sensor seems an absurd thing to do.
but if sensors bodged, ecu will see the extra fuelling from lamda feedback, and trim it back...
so resistor bodges are utterly pointless
Good point. I was thinking that closed loop operation would be inhibited but that is probably only influenced by the coolant temperature sensor.
A bodged air temperature sensor probably only causes overfuelling during a cold start.
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So it should be ok but best to remove it anyhow? I also found the the vacuum hose to the fpr was removed which would defeat any such mod IMO
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Plus fuel correction for air temp is pretty much bugger all so the 'resistor mod' wont have a great deal of effect anyway.
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would it be having an effect on the fuel economy though?