Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Martin_1962 on 08 January 2010, 20:55:47
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Is it 225/55R16 95V or 95W?
Thanks
Martin
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V is upto 149 mph or 240 km/h
W is up to 168 mph or 270 km/h
(W) over 168 mph..
if you are going to buy new tires V is adequate imho..
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I agree with cem.
The difference in V and W rated tyres for normal road use is Zero.
Three important things to look at when buying tyres (some dont have these ratings).
Traction (Rated A, B, C etc) 'A' Giving the best traction.
Temperature (Rated A, B, C etc) 'A' being best.
Treadwear (Rated 100, 200, 350, 400 etc) The higher the number, the harder the compound which *should* last longer, but suffers with traction. Most are between 300 and 400.
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**IMPORTANT**
You *MUST* always put the speed rating as stated by the manufacturer on the car, irrespective of how fast you drive. You may invalidate your insurance otherwise.
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To OP - its in the back of your handbook ;). Prefacelift 225/55/16 (only fitted to elites) were Vs. May have changed for facelifts.
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My CDX 2.5 pre-facelift has these tyres so it's not just Elites. My handbook says it's only 3 litre cars that have W rating tyres.
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My CDX 2.5 pre-facelift has these tyres so it's not just Elites. My handbook says it's only 3 litre cars that have W rating tyres.
Either non original, or specced as an option I believe.
PM me your reg and I'll check if you want :)
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If I remember right they changed the rating a few years ago, so the V got a higher rating, my old senator used to have Z, but then the V was changed so I could use those, but that was a while ago :D
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Handbook has gone walkies :-[
Vs were on it.
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Handbook has gone walkies :-[
Vs were on it.
http://images.omegaowners.com/documents/UserGuides/OmegaJun2002.pdf
and
http://images.omegaowners.com/documents/UserGuides/OmegaOct2002.pdf
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**IMPORTANT**
You *MUST* always put the speed rating as stated by the manufacturer on the car, irrespective of how fast you drive. You may invalidate your insurance otherwise.
Yep, you must either have the correct rating OR tell your insurer that you have changed. My F/L 3.0 Elite has ZR rating - which is an old obsolete 'high performance' indicator (cant recall what it meant but it was the highest speed rating of its time). The Falkens I have show both ZR and W ratings (old and new system).
So its W's you need.
Its not (as most people think) matching the tyre rated speed for the car in question. The rating also relates to sidewall strength, flex etc.
So a big heavy bugger like an Omega may well need a W rating not because it can do 170MPH but because it needs a stronger sidewall and tyre makeup due to the extra sideways load from the weight of the car.
ETA that handbook isnt very clear. It gives an example of how to read the numbers on the side of the tyre and uses V as part of that example but I cant find anywhere that explicitly says if it should be H, V or W. Or maybe I just looked in the wrong place ?
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**IMPORTANT**
You *MUST* always put the speed rating as stated by the manufacturer on the car, irrespective of how fast you drive. You may invalidate your insurance otherwise.
Yep, you must either have the correct rating OR tell your insurer that you have changed. My F/L 3.0 Elite has ZR rating - which is an old obsolete 'high performance' indicator (cant recall what it meant but it was the highest speed rating of its time). The Falkens I have show both ZR and W ratings (old and new system).
So its W's you need.
Its not (as most people think) matching the tyre rated speed for the car in question. The rating also relates to sidewall strength, flex etc.
So a big heavy bugger like an Omega may well need a W rating not because it can do 170MPH but because it needs a stronger sidewall and tyre makeup due to the extra sideways load from the weight of the car.
Z = 'above 150mph'
W = has a specific top speed rating.
If your car specs Zs, Ws are equivilent.
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IIRC load index is also important , I believe my falkens are 91W , with 91 being the index. I know there are higher indexes available but I believe if you go for a higher number you get into re-inforced sidewall tyres and ride quality suffers.
The higher the index number the more weight the tyre can support.
In reality 99.9% of people dont understand all this gobbledegook (and nor do I really!) so best bet is replace with like for like.
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In the tyre specification section in the two handbook links posted by TB the speed rating is not listed at all for these facelift models yet it is in my pre-facelift handbook. I wonder why? OP's (Martin's) car is a 2.6 so I would have thought V's as these are specified for my 2.5. W's on the 3.2 I would have thought, as these are specified for the pre-facelift 3 litre. Just my thoughts.
Geoff
p.s. just noticed that Martin's car is fitted with three litre cams so not sure where that leaves us :-/ perhaps W's to be sure.
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**IMPORTANT**
You *MUST* always put the speed rating as stated by the manufacturer on the car, irrespective of how fast you drive. You may invalidate your insurance otherwise.
Not strictly true. You can go up but not down. Similarly, you can go wider but not narrower. However, your profile must be the same.
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**IMPORTANT**
You *MUST* always put the speed rating as stated by the manufacturer on the car, irrespective of how fast you drive. You may invalidate your insurance otherwise.
Not strictly true. You can go up but not down. Similarly, you can go wider but not narrower. However, your profile must be the same.
If you go wider without altering the profile the speedo reading will be out.
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Any alteration from the standard spec. Tyres, suspenspention, engine, running gear or body work should be mentioned to insurance. In the event of a claim the insurance could well be voided on a non standard car. (and we all know how petty insurance companies can be - dont we. :-X )
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IIRC load index is also important , I believe my falkens are 91W , with 91 being the index. I know there are higher indexes available but I believe if you go for a higher number you get into re-inforced sidewall tyres and ride quality suffers.
The higher the index number the more weight the tyre can support.
In reality 99.9% of people dont understand all this gobbledegook (and nor do I really!) so best bet is replace with like for like.
What if they were the wrong tyres fitted to the car before replaceing like for like. :-/
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Any alteration from the standard spec. Tyres, suspenspention, engine, running gear or body work should be mentioned to insurance. In the event of a claim the insurance could well be voided on a non standard car. (and we all know how petty insurance companies can be - dont we. :-X )
Agreed. Whilst common sense might tell you otherwise, if you don't mention something to the insurers you are stating that your car is factory spec.
If you subsequently land that insurer with a large bill they will go over your car with a fine tooth comb until they find something like an incorrect tyre spec.
Kevin
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I have the 3,0 MV6 with low profile tyres, I hate the ride, if you drive over some snail poo your fillings come out! I take it is OK to put normal tyres on from it from a 2.2CD? Might soften up the ride somewhat.
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I have the 3,0 MV6 with low profile tyres, I hate the ride, if you drive over some snail poo your fillings come out! I take it is OK to put normal tyres on from it from a 2.2CD? Might soften up the ride somewhat.
One of the reasons I bought the 2.2 was the sensible wheels-I hate low profiles for the bumpiness and kerbing :y
Does that mean a 4-pot finally has something over a V6 ;D ;D ;D
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I have the 3,0 MV6 with low profile tyres, I hate the ride, if you drive over some snail poo your fillings come out! I take it is OK to put normal tyres on from it from a 2.2CD? Might soften up the ride somewhat.
One of the reasons I bought the 2.2 was the sensible wheels-I hate low profiles for the bumpiness and kerbing :y
Does that mean a 4-pot finally has something over a V6 ;D ;D ;D
I do find my 2.2 is smoother on a run than mother tunnies 3.0 Elite Estate, more rubber to absorb the bumbs in the road i guess.
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I have the 3,0 MV6 with low profile tyres, I hate the ride, if you drive over some snail poo your fillings come out! I take it is OK to put normal tyres on from it from a 2.2CD? Might soften up the ride somewhat.
One of the reasons I bought the 2.2 was the sensible wheels-I hate low profiles for the bumpiness and kerbing :y
Does that mean a 4-pot finally has something over a V6 ;D ;D ;D
I do find my 2.2 is smoother on a run than mother tunnies 3.0 Elite Estate, more rubber to absorb the bumbs in the road i guess.
This warrants an OOF press release-an advantage of a 4pot over a V6 (besides simplicity, economy, etc.....)
;D ;D ;D ;D
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To OP - its in the back of your handbook ;). Prefacelift 225/55/16 (only fitted to elites) were Vs. May have changed for facelifts.
I think The Tourer and Reflection variants had them fitted as standard.