Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: ali on 16 September 2009, 19:51:58
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After a VERY long day and thanks to The Boy & Darth Loo-knee I now have an alternator that will hopefully get Syd running again. I have looked everwhere on here and can not find any guide/steps on what is the best order of removal and refitting. I had hoped to be back by lunchtime, have the car in bits and all done by now. But due to a sight seeing trip around London , or ok I got a bit lost ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Im only just back. So I now have 3 hours in the morning to get old one off, new one on and then must head off to Great Yarmouth to collect my daughter :-/ So any tips for the morning will be gratefully received :y :y
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Can't remember everything involved, but I do recall bending the battery tray upwards at the corner nearest the alternator with a large angled pliers. It'll bend easily enough, and bend back just as easily. This will give you a little more room to rotate the alternator and slide it out towards the rear. I didn't remove the power steering pipes when I did mine. It's a case of wiggle, rotate and tilt, but it will come out.
I know it sounds a bit dim, but I can't remember whether I took the inlet manifold off. I've just been out to look and I suspect I did remove it as doing so would allow a lot more room to access and manouver.
If Syd is your only means of getting to Great Yarmouth then I would be a little concerned of running out of time. Ok, I'm not the fastest spanner in the west and it was very much a learning curve when I did mine, but 3 hours won't give you much time if things don't go to plan.
I don't know what the problem is with your current alternator, but if it's not charging I'd stick the battery on charge tonight and drive it with minimum use of blowers, rear demister etc. for tomorrow. Once it's started, the battery isn't needed to keep the 2.5td running. You could actually take it off and it'll still run.
If overcharging is the issue, as it was with mine, I'd keep the revs below 1500rpm and drive with the lights, blowers etc on. I drove mine for over a week like this.
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hmm think i would be checking to ee if the brush pack and diode can be replaced by just undoing the 2 screws and replacing im prety sure it can!!! ten min job then!!!! :y
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Ok thanks for that, Im glad you said that about driving with no battery as AA man told me last week that at any point the car could stop and I loose power as car runs on battery :o I didnt think was correct :-/
I have 3 hours in the morning and then can carry on late afternoon until its done. I have no time limit as to when I get to Yarmouth but can not leave until at least 6pm so will need lights :(
As for taking out screws and checking diode, I guess this can be done with out taking it off :-? sorry if thats obvious, Im tired ;)
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If it's just the brush pack and diode then OT is correct (yet again ::)).
Remove the battery completely tho. It'll give you a lot more room. Also, I'd remove the bonnet alarm switch from it's holder. It may get damaged whilst your leaning over.
I always knocking it. I can be doing something in the boot and I'd still manage to catch it. ;D
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In the past i allways took the inlet manifold off to remove the alternator wich is a pain in the ass to do in itself ....ive now put the batery in the boot and removed the batery tray alltogether
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In the past i allways took the inlet manifold off to remove the alternator wich is a pain in the ass to do in itself ....ive now put the batery in the boot and removed the batery tray alltogether
There ya go, I thought I had. How could I not remember whether I did that ?!? ::)
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its a piece of Cake with the inlet manifold off ...its nigh impossible with it on ..been there got the T shirt :y
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if I take the manifold off will the gaskets be ok :-?
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I've had a manifold on and off many times and only the last time did I need (decide to) get new gaskets. I smear a little oil on the manifold face and that stops them sticking the next time it's removed.
If they do tear or crack, they should be ok to match up and re-use. I'm reasonably confident they'll be ok.
Re-fitting is a case of easy does it wiggling. Don't use excessive force and re-tighten evenly. Don't overtighten or you may crack the inlets.
Using a dab of grease in the socket will stop the nuts falling out on removal and re-fitting, and the last 3 nuts are best accessed by reaching under the manifold with a spanner.
Having said that, I think you've done this before, so you probably know the score with removal etc
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I've had a manifold on and off many times and only the last time did I need (decide to) get new gaskets. I smear a little oil on the manifold face and that stops them sticking the next time it's removed.
If they do tear or crack, they should be ok to match up and re-use. I'm reasonably confident they'll be ok.
Re-fitting is a case of easy does it wiggling. Don't use excessive force and re-tighten evenly. Don't overtighten or you may crack the inlets.
Using a dab of grease in the socket will stop the nuts falling out on removal and re-fitting, and the last 3 nuts are best accessed by reaching under the manifold with a spanner.
Having said that, I think you've done this before, so you probably know the score with removal etc
Yes I have had it off lots of times :D I havent found it a problem with my little hands :y no chance of over tightening ;D ;D ;D
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Manifold off, and from memory its just 2 long bolts (after removing aux belt, obviously. 2 wires on back of alternatoer as well.
Hard part is the fiddly bit of getting alternator out - the battery tray is in the way to lift it up.
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Manifold off, and from memory its just 2 long bolts (after removing aux belt, obviously. 2 wires on back of alternatoer as well.
Hard part is the fiddly bit of getting alternator out - the battery tray is in the way to lift it up.
Have got manifold off, bolts all out, wires off. Not sure how to get belt off :-? I will search again but any help would be :y
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I've had a manifold on and off many times and only the last time did I need (decide to) get new gaskets. I smear a little oil on the manifold face and that stops them sticking the next time it's removed.
If they do tear or crack, they should be ok to match up and re-use. I'm reasonably confident they'll be ok.
Re-fitting is a case of easy does it wiggling. Don't use excessive force and re-tighten evenly. Don't overtighten or you may crack the inlets.
Using a dab of grease in the socket will stop the nuts falling out on removal and re-fitting, and the last 3 nuts are best accessed by reaching under the manifold with a spanner.
Having said that, I think you've done this before, so you probably know the score with removal etc
Is that the manifold or me ;)
All 6 gaskets did tear but think they will be ok. I had to work this afternoon so I have left Syd in bits and will borrow friends x trail again to drive to Yarmouth. Not as comfy as Syd but will get me there and back :y
So belt is still on if any one can shine some light on how I get it off tomorrow :y :y :y
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Aux Belt (if you could take pics, or even video, that would make ideal Maintenence Guide :y)
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Remove viscous. Left hand thread!
Remove all 'Turbo Diesel' plastics (assume already have if manifold off)
See the tensioner, that looks like a mini damper? And the (normally black) plate its top edge mounts to? Loosen the 2 bolts holding black plate to engine. Put a pair of molegrips on black plate on right side (looking from front), then remove the bolt that goes through tensioner. When bolt removed, gently angle the black plate upwards, pivotting on remaining bolt. This will loosen bolt.
To retension afterwards, pivot the black plate downwards with molegrips and reinsert removed bolt.
As said, piccy worth a thousand words if you can take a couple to make a guide :y
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I'm watching this cos my power steering pump is leaking from the lower banjo. & it looks like manifold off , alt off, to get at it,
To change my waterpump & stat I just bent the pulley back with a pry bar to let the belt go. Easy. But I have read here that the tensioner could break.
However I would chance it again.
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It would be alot easier with the alternator of .......couldnt you get a spanner under it to just nip it up ?......only probs with the tensioner is the the plastic eyes in it at each end (can) crush
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I've had a manifold on and off many times and only the last time did I need (decide to) get new gaskets. I smear a little oil on the manifold face and that stops them sticking the next time it's removed.
If they do tear or crack, they should be ok to match up and re-use. I'm reasonably confident they'll be ok.
Re-fitting is a case of easy does it wiggling. Don't use excessive force and re-tighten evenly. Don't overtighten or you may crack the inlets.
Using a dab of grease in the socket will stop the nuts falling out on removal and re-fitting, and the last 3 nuts are best accessed by reaching under the manifold with a spanner.
Having said that, I think you've done this before, so you probably know the score with removal etc
Is that the manifold or me ;)
All 6 gaskets did tear but think they will be ok. I had to work this afternoon so I have left Syd in bits and will borrow friends x trail again to drive to Yarmouth. Not as comfy as Syd but will get me there and back :y
So belt is still on if any one can shine some light on how I get it off tomorrow :y :y :y
As TB says "if you could take pics, or even video..." ::)
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Hertfordshire to Yarmouth and back in just over 4 hours not bad :D shame Ive got a numb bum from the X trail :P, i must fix Syd.
I have been taking lots of photos, ready for a step by step guide :y sorry none of the wiggling ;D ;D ;D
I will give it a go to remove belt in the morning, thanks for the tips :y :y :y :y couldnt do it with out you all :-* :-*
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I'm watching this cos my power steering pump is leaking from the lower banjo. & it looks like manifold off , alt off, to get at it,
To change my waterpump & stat I just bent the pulley back with a pry bar to let the belt go. Easy. But I have read here that the tensioner could break.
However I would chance it again.
That is the official way according to BMW, Landrover and GM. However, seen too many break, and even broken one myself using that method, hence the revised method above (courtesy of Omegatoy), which is a damn sight easier to be honest (although from the description it doesn't sound it)
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I'm watching this cos my power steering pump is leaking from the lower banjo. & it looks like manifold off , alt off, to get at it,
To change my waterpump & stat I just bent the pulley back with a pry bar to let the belt go. Easy. But I have read here that the tensioner could break.
However I would chance it again.
That is the official way according to BMW, Landrover and GM. However, seen too many break, and even broken one myself using that method, hence the revised method above (courtesy of Omegatoy), which is a damn sight easier to be honest (although from the description it doesn't sound it)
:y :y :y :y
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Have been at it on and off all day between work :-? I have at last got old one off and out :o lets just say the battery holder looks a bit different now ::) Have got replacement in but not sure how to loosen off belt to get it back on :( I have tried but Ive given up for now. I wasnt sure what the the tensioner was? and whats a mini damper look like? but I think I followed ok as I got it off :y coffee and cake and then will have another go :D
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Have been at it on and off all day between work :-? I have at last got old one off and out :o lets just say the battery holder looks a bit different now ::) Have got replacement in but not sure how to loosen off belt to get it back on :( I have tried but Ive given up for now. I wasnt sure what the the tensioner was? and whats a mini damper look like? but I think I followed ok as I got it off :y coffee and cake and then will have another go :D
tensioner is just above/right of waterpump (where the viscous screws on), looks like a 3" shock absorber. Top is bolted to black metal plate, bottom is connected to a right angled arm, the other end of arm has an idler pulley on it.
If you can post a pic, I can show you :)
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(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu141/aliandtyla/040.jpg)
I think its this? ok blonde question what the fluff is a viscous :-[ I have no idea about engines but at this rate I will do :y
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and now I know where the waterpump is, Im sure one day I will change that too ;D ;D ;D ;D
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(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu141/aliandtyla/040.jpg)
I think its this? ok blonde question what the fluff is a viscous :-[ I have no idea about engines but at this rate I will do :y
Thats it :)
Not clear from photo, but see how the top of it is attached to a metal plate - that is the black plate I mentioned before.
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and now I know where the waterpump is, Im sure one day I will change that too ;D ;D ;D ;D
On a TD, you will be changing pump at some point ;D
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(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu141/aliandtyla/039.jpg)
I thought that was it but I can not get black plate to move at all :( I took out the bolt in tensioner and got belt back on but now cant get the bolt back in :-? sorry to be a pain :-[ There is a star bolt thingy at the top, do I have to undo that? I have taken out the one at the bottom :-?
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Remove the star bolt at the top and replace the bottom bolt. Slacken the other bolt to the left of the star bolt. The bracket will now pivot up to allow the star bolt to be re-inserted into the tensioner and into the respective hole in the now raised bracket.
Now either tighten the bolt on the left so that it gives enough resistance to hold the bracket and you should be able to tap the bracket down until the star bolt can be screwed into place. If that isn't working,slacken the bolt slightly again and, using a block of wood or something similar to spread the load of the thin metal bracket, push it down until you can screw the star bolt in.
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(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/odds/039.jpg)
Remove yellow bolt
Loosen blue bolt
Put molegrips on as I've (badly) tried to depict in red
Remove green bolt
Before refitting, rettach you bottom bolt you erroneously removed.
Then press down with molegrips (so plate pivots on blue bolt), then put back in green bolt
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thats what I thought :y I have already removed mrs yellow, loosened mr blue, but stroppy teenage green wont move >:( >:( >:( ran out of light and strength :-[ will wd40 tomorrow and carry on. Its not going to beat me ;) thanks for all the help :y again :-*
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thats what I thought :y I have already removed mrs yellow, loosened mr blue, but stroppy teenage green wont move >:( >:( >:( ran out of light and strength :-[ will wd40 tomorrow and carry on. Its not going to beat me ;) thanks for all the help :y again :-*
Silkolene Silkopen or Plus Gas would be better. Impact socket driver available ? If not, try striking the bolt head on with a hammer whilst applying pressure to undo it.
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thats what I thought :y I have already removed mrs yellow, loosened mr blue, but stroppy teenage green wont move >:( >:( >:( ran out of light and strength :-[ will wd40 tomorrow and carry on. Its not going to beat me ;) thanks for all the help :y again :-*
Silkolene Silkopen or Plus Gas would be better. Impact socket driver available ? If not, try striking the bolt head on with a hammer whilst applying pressure to undo it.
I live in a small village, no public transport and both Syd and Pete are off the road :( so its a case of what ever I have here :-/ but I do have a hammer :D :D :D :D
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thats what I thought :y I have already removed mrs yellow, loosened mr blue, but stroppy teenage green wont move >:( >:( >:( ran out of light and strength :-[ will wd40 tomorrow and carry on. Its not going to beat me ;) thanks for all the help :y again :-*
WD40 is better than nothing I supose, but do it tonight. It will give it much more time to work.
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done :y
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I've emailed you a diagram of the correct routeing of the drive belt - just in case you can't work this out when re-assembling.
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ok thanks, but I took pics of it before i took it off ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D thanks anyway :y hope to go and have a go now, :y :y :y
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All done and Syd is starting fine again, thank you everyone who helped me :-*
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a job well done
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I wish I had seen this post 10 days ago... I managed to break the bloody tension arm and then took 2 of us to get the flipping belt back on properly, following the Vx/BMW method... But, I shall make a point of remembering the removal of said bolds and mole grips....
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I wish I had seen this post 10 days ago... I managed to break the bloody tension arm and then took 2 of us to get the flipping belt back on properly, following the Vx/BMW method... But, I shall make a point of remembering the removal of said bolds and mole grips....
Its soooooo much easier, and never breaks the tensioner arm, unlike the BMW way. What idiot dreamt that up!
I can't take any credit, Omegatoy showed me :y
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I wish I had seen this post 10 days ago... I managed to break the bloody tension arm and then took 2 of us to get the flipping belt back on properly, following the Vx/BMW method... But, I shall make a point of remembering the removal of said bolds and mole grips....
Its soooooo much easier, and never breaks the tensioner arm, unlike the BMW way. What idiot dreamt that up!
I can't take any credit, Omegatoy showed me :y
you have the force now Tb :y
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sorry for hi jacking this thread ,but should the green bolt be a torx bolt or a 16mm,mines got a 16 mm and i couldnt get a socket on flush
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for raywilb
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someone please do a guide for this ;)
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I've bookmarked the thread for future ref: Thanks guys :y :y :y
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reply 29 on this thread is for aux belt removal ps as soon as im working in newcastle(so i dont need the car) i will make an how too on this. :y