Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Miggy24 on 20 January 2010, 16:05:24
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Hi can any one tell me what size start drive bit i need to undo the head bolts to the cyclinder head.Oh yeh its for a 2.0 16v
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T50 I think Rory. Just removed head off the breaker yesterday. Pain in the f-----g arse
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Thanks Rob :y.Not to bad really stripped everything down know probs in about a hour and a half.all i need to do is undo the head bolts and the head is out
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Make sure you`ve released all the connectors at back of engine and the coolant pipe :y
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Yeh all done rob ;D
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T55 on mine, 96 N reg X202xev.
I know 'cos its the missing one out of work's set...
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Just tryed to undo the head bolts but they are so tight that my star drive bit twisted.Is there away to undo them
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Decent torx + torque wrench if they`re that tight. I managed mine with a 3/8 drive :)
(I did have a decent torx though) ;)
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Just tryed to undo the head bolts but they are so tight that my star drive bit twisted.Is there away to undo them
T55 and you need a good one otherwise you just keep breaking them....
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Just tryed to undo the head bolts but they are so tight that my star drive bit twisted.Is there away to undo them
T55 and you need a good one otherwise you just keep breaking them....
Agreed.
I found that the give/spring in my 1/2" breaker bar was hurting my hands as the bolts freed in a series of jerks so I used a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter and a 3/4" breaker bar.
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Head bolts are all undone now bloodly hard work i tell you lol.Just have 2 more bolts to undo and the head will be off would of had the head off 2day but got dark early 2night
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Here is a quick pic to where i am with the engine now
(http://[IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z24/biffaboy21/miggy2222012.jpg)[/img]
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Right well iv got the head off 2 day and the head and vavles are all good thank god but only prob there is that one of the last owners had snap 2 of the exhaust manifold bolts so now i need to get them out.So now what i wanna do is get all the vavles out and polish them up and get the head all cleaned.But Rob you was right they are a pain in the ass to get off lol :y
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Nah there not.....not bad at all.....the cracking is micro welding of the bolts to the washers, its nothing to do with the give in the bar
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Nah there not.....not bad at all.....the cracking is micro welding of the bolts to the washers, its nothing to do with the give in the bar
Micro-welding sounds perfectly plausible, all I know is that with a 1/2" breaker bar each turn sounded like a creaky hinge (and was bloody painful) and when I switched to a more rigid (and heavier) T-Bar the head bolts came undone in a series of smooth movements.
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Makes sense to me Andy. If there's a fair bit of stored energy in a bendy breaker bar, each time the friction/stiction is overcome and the bolt rotates, there's a sudden reduction in applied force (because the bend has abruptly straightened a bit), which will tend to cause the bolt to stop turning again until you add more force at the end of the bar to bend it again.
I had the same jerkiness with a 16*1/2" bar (Halfords), but I had nothing else so I just had to live with it. I'm sure if there isn't any significant stored energy, as would be the case with a stiffer bar, this affect will tend to be reduced.
BTW, Miggy24: What's all the stuff that looks like rust on your pipework on the offside of your engine? I'm struggling to see how so much of it has got where it has if it is rust.
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wot that is is from when the last owner had the car the head gasket went and they put another engine in but didnt flush the coolant system out and matix so i cleaned it out and all the dirty water went every where but its been like that for a few months now will clean it soon as i get round to it