Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Impact Pete on 21 January 2010, 09:07:16
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Hi I have decided to sort my mot failed car out, I'm getting some nice people on here to sort some jobs out(still to arrange) but to keep the costs down I'm sorting a few simple bits out myself,
Quick question really if the front brakes failed on the application being uneven what should I be looking out for as the cause.
Also it failed on front brakes imbalanced, any ideas?
I was tempted to take to different Mot station as I replaced brakes and discs 8 months ago by the book and they are pretty good they certainly don't pull to left or right.
Any advice to help me get my V6 back on the road where it belongs would be great
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sounds like the disc's are going rust built up, best just to get new set, if been stud for a long time out side the get damaged, would just get new disc's and pads better in the long run. if you look on the back of the disc's if bad should see the rust ring if more than an inch they are gone. very common.
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sounds like the disc's are going rust built up, best just to get new set, if been stud for a long time out side the get damaged, would just get new disc's and pads better in the long run. if you look on the back of the disc's if bad should see the rust ring if more than an inch they are gone. very common.
As mentioned though I replaced them in Aug 2009, they are in perfect nick and so are pads
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when was the mot how long has it been off the road for?
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Hi I have decided to sort my mot failed car out, I'm getting some nice people on here to sort some jobs out(still to arrange) but to keep the costs down I'm sorting a few simple bits out myself,
Quick question really if the front brakes failed on the application being uneven what should I be looking out for as the cause.
Also it failed on front brakes imbalanced, any ideas?
I was tempted to take to different Mot station as I replaced brakes and discs 8 months ago by the book and they are pretty good they certainly don't pull to left or right.
Any advice to help me get my V6 back on the road where it belongs would be great
application being uneven means rust or groves in the disc or brake pads causing uneven waer.
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Lets do the basics first....
Service them......wheels off, pads out, check the sliders are free.
Also, bleed the brakes and when you have the bleed nipple open to do this, squeeze the caliper piston in fully.
make sure the pads are fitted correctly
I recall you also had rear wheel bearing/handbrake issues.
Make sure the nut on the rear hub is fully tight and service and adjust the handbrake setup as per the maintenance guide, dont cut corners on it, do it as prescribed. When checking for play do so with the wheel attached.
The brake pipe corrosion is a sign of the times with minimal servicing....
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The uneven braking/inbalance will be caused by the pistons sticking in the caliper at one side, or even both sides but not evenly.
Don't replace the discs and pads,, they will clean up if some rust has appeared due to being stood, unless it's been stood in wet conditions for years.
Take the calipers of, and refurb them, clean all the pistons and fit new seals, make sure they are all going in and out easily with no sticking areas. :y
The worst side will have shown up in the MOT.
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Must type faster. ;D
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Right...I am going to make one comment here.....lets not advise on re-furbs and replacement of anything until we have completed the basics.....which includes simple inspection and things of zero cost.
By diving and doing things willy nilly we only complicate the issues as you can end up with the fault still being present and a question mark over the new/re-furbed work that has been carried out (as just beacause soemthing is new, does not mean its guaranteed to work as all items suffer from DOA's!).
Its this approach that is all to evident in some garages resulting in items being changed unneccassarily.
The number 1 rule.....check, inspect, confirm, replace.... not replace, replace, replace, replace :y
Sorry, sermon over ;D
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only been off road since monday.
I will have to strip all brakes down again.. as mentioned they were all good in August no sticking pistons, no corrosion just worn pads and discs at the time.
I guess as the brake pipes need replacing(still original) I can do most of the checking then, Due to the continuous cam cover oil leaks everything under the car generally is constantly covered in oil, but it has not got into braking system
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Right...I am going to make one comment here.....lets not advise on re-furbs and replacement of anything until we have completed the basics.....which includes simple inspection and things of zero cost.
By diving and doing things willy nilly we only complicate the issues as you can end up with the fault still being present and a question mark over the new/re-furbed work that has been carried out (as just beacause soemthing is new, does not mean its guaranteed to work as all items suffer from DOA's!).
Its this approach that is all to evident in some garages resulting in items being changed unneccassarily.
The number 1 rule.....check, inspect, confirm, replace.... not replace, replace, replace, replace :y
Sorry, sermon over ;D
A sermon that conveyed a very important message for the flock 8-) :y :y
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Right...I am going to make one comment here.....lets not advise on re-furbs and replacement of anything until we have completed the basics.....which includes simple inspection and things of zero cost.
By diving and doing things willy nilly we only complicate the issues as you can end up with the fault still being present and a question mark over the new/re-furbed work that has been carried out (as just beacause soemthing is new, does not mean its guaranteed to work as all items suffer from DOA's!).
Its this approach that is all to evident in some garages resulting in items being changed unneccassarily.
The number 1 rule.....check, inspect, confirm, replace.... not replace, replace, replace, replace :y
Sorry, sermon over ;D
but very true mark. :y
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only been off road since monday.
I will have to strip all brakes down again.. as mentioned they were all good in August no sticking pistons, no corrosion just worn pads and discs at the time.
I guess as the brake pipes need replacing(still original) I can do most of the checking then, Due to the continuous cam cover oil leaks everything under the car generally is constantly covered in oil, but it has not got into braking system
If something is sticking, it will be clear on inspection.....as brake pad wear wont be even and something will/may be stuck.
Remember that air in the caliper cylinder will also give un-even braking effort to but, pad wear on that caliper will still be even (but less than the opposing side). :y
Now onto the history bit.
Unlike some makes (FORD) Omega front brakes are pretty bomb proof, calipers suffer all but zero failures and the brake setup is pretty bomb proof.
The rears are a different matter, the handbrake setup needs servicing correctly and setting up in the correct sequence (as do ALL makes but, many still dont follow or know the basics sadly). The pads are know to seize into the calipers causing un-even braking etc but again, proper servicing keeps on top of this
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Who you havin' a go at here? I wasn't advising replace, but to refurb by cleaning the the parts so that they move freely. I think if you're removing seals to clean up the caliper pistons, it's a good idea to fit new ones on re-assembly as they can be damaged when removing, or could be worn anyway.
I've had this uneven braking several times, and it's always been sticking pistons, usually just on one side.
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Right...I am going to make one comment here.....lets not advise on re-furbs and replacement of anything until we have completed the basics.....which includes simple inspection and things of zero cost.
By diving and doing things willy nilly we only complicate the issues as you can end up with the fault still being present and a question mark over the new/re-furbed work that has been carried out (as just beacause soemthing is new, does not mean its guaranteed to work as all items suffer from DOA's!).
Its this approach that is all to evident in some garages resulting in items being changed unneccassarily.
The number 1 rule.....check, inspect, confirm, replace.... not replace, replace, replace, replace :y
Sorry, sermon over ;D
Good point, still wish I went to ALans test centre as per last three years as it's always passed with just advisories, then I'm able to sort the advisories out during the year, I went to a new mot place and they didn't pick up on some of last years advisories ie windscreen damage within zone A and indicators discolouration, minor points but shows that differnt MOT garages pick up differnt things.
All I know is the cars going to get some very Tender loving care this weekend!
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Who you havin' a go at here? I wasn't advising replace, but to refurb by cleaning the the parts so that they move freely. I think if you're removing seals to clean up the caliper pistons, it's a good idea to fit new ones on re-assembly as they can be damaged when removing, or could be worn anyway.
I've had this uneven braking several times, and it's always been sticking pistons, usually just on one side.
Right, I am not having a go at anybody but, advising removing, stripping and re-furbing calipers as a first step is a fools errand and adds more unknowns into the pot.
If following this first information gathering step you find the piston is sticking....then all well and good, strip and refurb (very rare on these calipers mind)
Check and inspect :y
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It seems to me that "check and inspect" should go without saying really...but then..maybe not.
I answered this post because I was concerned that he might go out and re-buy all the stuff again, without sorting the calipers, which seemed the most likely explanation to me for the problem.
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It seems to me that "check and inspect" should go without saying really...but then..maybe not.
I answered this post because I was concerned that he might go out and re-buy all the stuff again, without sorting the calipers, which seemed the most likely explanation to me for the problem.
No chance I can't afford that! I don't cut corners but I certainly don't waste money, will be checking and inspecting first!
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Think I might of found the cause...
Possibly a cock up by me but when stripping the brakes down I noticed the spring that swivels on the edge of the pad was half through the caliper assembly, so not pressing against caliper assembly wall.
Lesson of check, check and check again..