Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Omega3 on 05 February 2010, 20:27:34
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Apologies in advance for asking such a basic question but I really struggled today to remove the oil filter from my mates 2.0. Strap wrench wouldn't shift it, chain wrench crushed it, in the end had to resort to the time honoured tradition of an old screwdriver.... Just like an MP's expenses.... Messy.
I had a similar problem six months ago on my 2.2 and just thought there must be a better way. Any recommendations?
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I use a bloody great big pair of water pump pliers.....as they are useful for other jobs.
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Apologies in advance for asking such a basic question but I really struggled today to remove the oil filter from my mates 2.0. Strap wrench wouldn't shift it, chain wrench crushed it, in the end had to resort to the time honoured tradition of an old screwdriver.... Just like an MP's expenses.... Messy.
I had a similar problem six months ago on my 2.2 and just thought there must be a better way. Any recommendations?
If they're over-tightened when fitted (and they invariably are), then the method you used is acceptable. :y
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bloody big pair of snap on grips is what i use.commonlly called water pump pliers,red grips. :y
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i have one similar to this, its never let me down
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/02820524000
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http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/oil-filter-wrench
for me :y
(http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/large/04/040210173.jpg)
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http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/oil-filter-wrench
for me :y
(http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/large/04/040210173.jpg)
got pair them aswell :y
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I use a chain wrench, if that fails use a filter socket. :y
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A 3/8 drive ratchet in the end of the housing because I don't over tighten it ::) ::) ::)
But generally, if too tight, water pump pliers :y :y :y
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A 3/8 drive ratchet in the end of the housing because I don't over tighten it ::) ::) ::)
But generally, if too tight, water pump pliers :y :y :y
If you did an oil change on damon80's 3.2 you'd need to find something else, cos his just had a round hole in the middle! I've no idea of other late cars. ;) ;)
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A 3/8 drive ratchet in the end of the housing because I don't over tighten it ::) ::) ::)
But generally, if too tight, water pump pliers :y :y :y
If you did an oil change on damon80's 3.2 you'd need to find something else, cos his just had a round hole in the middle! I've no idea of other late cars. ;) ;)
I reckon it's probably been butchered then ;) ;) ;)
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As this topic keeps on repeating and the filters have previously been tightened by Superman with a large wrench why hasn't anyone said anything about just how tight it should be tightened?
During my long apprenticeship many years ago I was told, under pain of having to pay for any mistakes I made that after the old filter had been removed and disposed of correctly you first cleaned off the block suface and then put a light smear of clean oil onto it, you then made sure that the sealing ring was located correctly in the groove of the correct new cannister and lightly smeared that too. After screwing the cannister into its place until it was just finger tight you then tightened it a further 1/4 turn and no more.
Same applied to the loose filter element types.
You then ran the engine until it was warm then you checked the filter and sump plug for any leaks and finally the oil level on the dipstick.
I have always stuck to that method and have never had any filter on any of my cars (too many to remember) requiring anything other than my hand to remove them. The only time my wrench sees the light of day is usually for someone else's problem.
GudLuk
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As this topic keeps on repeating and the filters have previously been tightened by Superman with a large wrench why hasn't anyone said anything about just how tight it should be tightened? .....
It has, frequently! :y The torque is cast into the housing ..... 15Nm, which is little more tha hand tight. These ally housings don't seal on the ends, but on the 'O' ring which is along the line of the thread, so it doesn't matter how much more you tighten the bugger, it's not going to seal any better. ;)
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A 3/8 drive ratchet in the end of the housing because I don't over tighten it ::) ::) ::)
But generally, if too tight, water pump pliers :y :y :y
If you did an oil change on damon80's 3.2 you'd need to find something else, cos his just had a round hole in the middle! I've no idea of other late cars. ;) ;)
I reckon it's probably been butchered then ;) ;) ;)
It didn't look as though it had been cast with a square hole, as though what ever was used for the square had been purposely omitted from the die. :-/ :-/
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Chain wrench ½" sq drive with capability to also use a spanner on it. Never failed to get a tight one off :y
In the past used the old way of driving a large screwdriver through the filter and swinging on it. Also never failed me but downside is hot oil up your sleeve :(
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As this topic keeps on repeating and the filters have previously been tightened by Superman with a large wrench why hasn't anyone said anything about just how tight it should be tightened?
During my long apprenticeship many years ago I was told, under pain of having to pay for any mistakes I made that after the old filter had been removed and disposed of correctly you first cleaned off the block suface and then put a light smear of clean oil onto it, you then made sure that the sealing ring was located correctly in the groove of the correct new cannister and lightly smeared that too. After screwing the cannister into its place until it was just finger tight you then tightened it a further 1/4 turn and no more.
Same applied to the loose filter element types.
You then ran the engine until it was warm then you checked the filter and sump plug for any leaks and finally the oil level on the dipstick.
I have always stuck to that method and have never had any filter on any of my cars (too many to remember) requiring anything other than my hand to remove them. The only time my wrench sees the light of day is usually for someone else's problem.
GudLuk
Agreed, IME one of the causes of problems removing items, nuts, bolts filters etc. is over-enthusiastic overtightening of same. Similarly many smaller size fittings are sheared by overtightening. I once removed the wheel nuts of my daughter car, which had just been to a main stealer, they could only be undone with me standing on a 3' breaker bar. I junked the bolts as they were probably beyond their elastic limit. >:( >:( >:(
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I once removed the wheel nuts of my daughter car, which had just been to a main stealer, they could only be undone with me standing on a 3' breaker bar. I junked the bolts as they were probably beyond their elastic limit. >:( >:( >:(
If you tighten to the correct torque (80ftlb?) and then use your wheel brace, it's surprisingly easy to tighten them further without really trying. ;) ;)