Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: GaryBC on 08 February 2010, 09:41:14
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Well, I at last bit the bullet and removed the ABS controller at the weekend. WHAT a job!!
Anyhow, now I have it off the car, it now needs to go away to be made better. Here's my question: There are several places I could send it for repair all of whom, to the untrained eye, appear to offer pretty much the same service (c£100 + Vat & carriage, 3-5 day turnaround, 2 year warranty). Does anyone have direct experience of any of these guys? Who is best to send it to?
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I use these guys, they are the most competitive on price and offer a good service.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Vectra-Omega-ABS-Pump-ECU-Modulator-Module_W0QQitemZ390062715978QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5ad18cb44a
BBA reman are also recommended but, in my personal opinion, no better on quality or service yet cost more.
On the ecu removal front, dont be afraid to release the brake pipes from the bulk head clips and bend them slightly to angle the whole ABS unit upwards to improve access.
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I use these guys, they are the most competitive on price and offer a good service.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Vectra-Omega-ABS-Pump-ECU-Modulator-Module_W0QQitemZ390062715978QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5ad18cb44a
BBA reman are also recommended but, in my personal opinion, no better on quality or service yet cost more.
On the ecu removal front, dont be afraid to release the brake pipes from the bulk head clips and bend them slightly to angle the whole ABS unit upwards to improve access.
Thanks for that. When there's no room for a fag paper between two suppliers it is usually the 'service' element that will swing me.
As for moving the ABS pump up a bit to increase access I read another thread that said to slacken the mounting nut to allow a bit of movement. No doubt, when you've done a few of these, you get a feel for how much it is possible to bend the pipes upwards and get away with it! As a first timer I wasn't prepared to risk it. But I learned enough during the removal to (I believe) get the re-fit time down to probably a little over an hour or so (from the five I took to get it off!).
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out of intrest, is it a common component that fails on the ecu ?
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out of intrest, is it a common component that fails on the ecu ?
It appears to be, yes. And not a component...
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out of intrest, is it a common component that fails on the ecu ?
It is a bond wire.....as per this picture:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_0249.jpg)
So not a DIY job
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out of intrest, is it a common component that fails on the ecu ?
It is a bond wire.....as per this picture:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_0249.jpg)
So not a DIY job
That looks like it's been blown off by a high current/voltage spike. Any idea what causes it?
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Give this company a try, they are the UK repair agent for GM Hope this helps
http://www.a-e-l.com/
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I was impressed by BBA-Reman ... and would use them again ... :)
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I use these guys, they are the most competitive on price and offer a good service.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Vectra-Omega-ABS-Pump-ECU-Modulator-Module_W0QQitemZ390062715978QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5ad18cb44a
BBA reman are also recommended but, in my personal opinion, no better on quality or service yet cost more.
On the ecu removal front, dont be afraid to release the brake pipes from the bulk head clips and bend them slightly to angle the whole ABS unit upwards to improve access.
Thanks for that. When there's no room for a fag paper between two suppliers it is usually the 'service' element that will swing me.
As for moving the ABS pump up a bit to increase access I read another thread that said to slacken the mounting nut to allow a bit of movement. No doubt, when you've done a few of these, you get a feel for how much it is possible to bend the pipes upwards and get away with it! As a first timer I wasn't prepared to risk it. But I learned enough during the removal to (I believe) get the re-fit time down to probably a little over an hour or so (from the five I took to get it off!).
gary re lifting it i found as long as you dont go mad
you can lift it far enough for a second person two undo the bottom to screws on pump with with easy
there more flexible then they look
your be surprised how far you can lift as long as you dont bend em so hard you kink and weaken the lines
same putting it back but id does help having a second pare of hands
i used BBA-Reman and service was nice and quick and no problems
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out of intrest, is it a common component that fails on the ecu ?
It is a bond wire.....as per this picture:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_0249.jpg)
So not a DIY job
That looks like it's been blown off by a high current/voltage spike. Any idea what causes it?
No, I tried repairing one....so the conformal coating had been removed.
But, even with access to the kit I have at work, I couldn't do it
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I use these guys, they are the most competitive on price and offer a good service.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Vectra-Omega-ABS-Pump-ECU-Modulator-Module_W0QQitemZ390062715978QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5ad18cb44a
BBA reman are also recommended but, in my personal opinion, no better on quality or service yet cost more.
On the ecu removal front, dont be afraid to release the brake pipes from the bulk head clips and bend them slightly to angle the whole ABS unit upwards to improve access.
Thanks for that. When there's no room for a fag paper between two suppliers it is usually the 'service' element that will swing me.
As for moving the ABS pump up a bit to increase access I read another thread that said to slacken the mounting nut to allow a bit of movement. No doubt, when you've done a few of these, you get a feel for how much it is possible to bend the pipes upwards and get away with it! As a first timer I wasn't prepared to risk it. But I learned enough during the removal to (I believe) get the re-fit time down to probably a little over an hour or so (from the five I took to get it off!).
gary re lifting it i found as long as you dont go mad
you can lift it far enough for a second person two undo the bottom to screws on pump with with easy
there more flexible then they look
your be surprised how far you can lift as long as you dont bend em so hard you kink and weaken the lines
same putting it back but id does help having a second pare of hands
i used BBA-Reman and service was nice and quick and no problems
Hhmm.... I take your point but I'm still not sure I'd want to risk it! Were I to overdo it I'd be well and truly breaked!!
And how on earth do you get a second pair of hands in there?!?! There's barely room for one!
No, having managed to get it out without unbolting it, I think I'll stick with putting it back the same way thanks! (Call me a coward!!)
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out of intrest, is it a common component that fails on the ecu ?
It is a bond wire.....as per this picture:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_0249.jpg)
So not a DIY job
That looks like it's been blown off by a high current/voltage spike. Any idea what causes it?
No, I tried repairing one....so the conformal coating had been removed.
But, even with access to the kit I have at work, I couldn't do it
The components look pretty densely packed so I imagine it would be difficult to repair the break without damaging them with conducted heat off your iron.
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The problem is that the bond wire is steel.....hence soldering is very difficult and the pad onto which it must go is very small
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The problem is that the bond wire is steel.....hence soldering is very difficult and the pad onto which it must go is very small
Curious choice of material - but I guess Bosch had their reasons! I presume the wire can't be replaced with copper? (But that might upset the electronics if it's resistance is critical - although what's few pico ohms here or there between friends!! Plus it might increase the risk of heat damage to surrounding components.)
Or have you tried a corrosive flux like Bakers Fluid?
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The problem is that the bond wire is steel.....hence soldering is very difficult and the pad onto which it must go is very small
Curious choice of material - but I guess Bosch had their reasons! I presume the wire can't be replaced with copper? (But that might upset the electronics if it's resistance is critical - although what's few pico ohms here or there between friends!! Plus it might increase the risk of heat damage to surrounding components.)
Or have you tried a corrosive flux like Bakers Fluid?
Steel is pretty much the standrad practive for bond wires and is resitance welded onto the pads
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The problem is that the bond wire is steel.....hence soldering is very difficult and the pad onto which it must go is very small
Curious choice of material - but I guess Bosch had their reasons! I presume the wire can't be replaced with copper? (But that might upset the electronics if it's resistance is critical - although what's few pico ohms here or there between friends!! Plus it might increase the risk of heat damage to surrounding components.)
Or have you tried a corrosive flux like Bakers Fluid?
Steel is pretty much the standrad practive for bond wires and is resitance welded onto the pads
Presumably so as not to have to worry about heat damage to surrounding components during assembly. So is it the actual weld that fails? Or the adjacent conductor?
I'd love to get my hands on a busted ECU just so as to see (in the flesh, as it were) the problem!