Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: coastie123 on 28 March 2010, 02:54:19
-
Hi guys
after my first omega nightmare can I have some advice please...
I'm looking at a 2000 w 2.5td gls, 130k 6months tax an 4 months mot...
It looks like it's been looked after but the anti rollbar links will need replacing in the next 10k
after Reading another post on a different forum(sorry to say that!!!) they advised someone not to purchase a GLS model...
Can someone advise me as to why they might have said this??? Money is tight after the first cockup so advice would be greatfully be received and noted!!!!
Regards
Shaun ;) ;) :y :y
-
Some idea of price would be good. ::)
As for the anti-roll bar or drop links issue, they are around £15.00 a side and are easy to replace. :y
-
Apologies
it's advertised for £995 and it's in silver, can't see any rust spots and interior is in quite good nick...
-
Manual or Auto ?
-
Apologies once again Turk...
2.5TD manual 5 speed
130k
silver with black cloth
not 01/07/10 and 6 months tax
loads of service history
first reg 04/05/00
he's not willing to budge much from £995
let's hope I've got it all here now ;D
-
Am I right in thinking the trim levels ar LS, GL, GLS then CD..
-
Am I right in thinking the trim levels ar LS, GL, GLS then CD..
They have not been used since Carlton...
its Select, GLS, CD, MV6/Sport, CDX, Elite
GLS won't have the loom to add many of the toys, cruise control is easy, but thats about it.
-
Ok is it roughly the right price for the spec do you think???
Thanks for the quick reply...
-
Am I right in thinking the trim levels ar LS, GL, GLS then CD..
gls trim level is very basic
gls base model
cd
cdx
mv6
Elite is top spec trim, but mv6 gets sports seats and better suspension.
-
Am I right in thinking the trim levels ar LS, GL, GLS then CD..
gls trim level is very basic
gls base model
cd
cdx
mv6
Elite is top spec trim, but mv6 gets sports seats and better suspension.
I'd put facelift MV6 at just CD spec, but with HID's and sports seats / suspension
-
Am I right in thinking the trim levels ar LS, GL, GLS then CD..
They have not been used since Carlton...
its Select, GLS, CD, MV6/Sport, CDX, Elite
GLS won't have the loom to add many of the toys, cruise control is easy, but thats about it.
or as Tunnie says, Select? never heard of it...? :-/
-
Am I right in thinking the trim levels ar LS, GL, GLS then CD..
They have not been used since Carlton...
its Select, GLS, CD, MV6/Sport, CDX, Elite
GLS won't have the loom to add many of the toys, cruise control is easy, but thats about it.
or as Tunnie says, Select? never heard of it...? :-/
Only in pre-facelift form, and its VERY basic, not even passenger airbag, just big compartment!
-
....
and its VERY basic, not even passenger airbag, just big compartment!
That's I must've seen in a local scrppy then. Effectively it had two glove boxes. :y
-
....
and its VERY basic, not even passenger airbag, just big compartment!
That's I must've seen in a local scrppy then. Effectively it had two glove boxes. :y
Yeah, just hinges up. Some had the 8v 2.0 as well. But the age the OP is buying won't be an issue.
GLS Sadly is base spec :(
-
thanks for the reply guys
so 2.5 td gls 2000(w)
130k
mot July
tax 6 months
needs anti-roll bar links
£995
is it about right for the model?? I'm happy to pay that as long as I'm happy with the drive etc but do you think it's the right price or should it be more/less
Unfortunately I do not have much more money to play with otherwise I would have bought one from the for sale section
-
its about right, look for oil serving, oil changes is critical on 2.5TD, must be changed every 3k MAX!
Being a manual, you can easily chip it back to full BMW spec :)
-
I'M just waiting for the chap to get back to me about servicing/oil etc...
Fingers crossed!!!!
Is there anything else I should look out for???
-
Hi guys, if there's no record of servicing within the last 3-6k
should I still consider it....
The chap still hasn't come back to me yet but I'm trying to think ahead before he does!!!
-
i doubt you will find one thats been maintained right at this age, go for it, but keep on top of those oil changes in your ownership :y
-
You don't say whether it's saloon or estate, so I guessing saloon.
About the right price me thinks, although you could try and him down a bit.
Don't look that interested in the car if you can help it, in other words let him do the selling, if he wants a sale he will come down a bit on price, hopefully.
As said by others, these engines need plenty of oil changes, if it's only been done every 10,000 then it's not enough.
Pay particular attention to the steering and general handling of the car, as said wishbones and steering idler can wear on these, especially of the age your looking at.
Plenty of info on the above to trawl through on this forum :y
Mick ;)
-
i doubt you will find one thats been maintained right at this age, go for it, but keep on top of those oil changes in your ownership :y
-
Presumable your going for a Diesel because your after a bit of economy?, the 2.5TD with a Manual are in all fairness pretty good considering the size of the Car, and as mentioned can be chipped for about 70 notes giving drive ability and MPG improvements.
The GLS spec would be a bit of a turn off for me, CD or CDX would be the ones or an Elite but your probabley end up with an Auto Box with the later models.
Engine wise the BMW 6 pots, although old hats now, are nice and smooth and quiet torque'y if looked after.
Think I would be inclined to ask the seller that you would prefer to start the Car from cold, they should start on the nose after the Glow Lamps gone out and take it for a good spin, again I would prefer a short cruise on the Motorway, they should still be quiet responsive throttle wise at legal top speed.
Good Luck :y
-
....
and its VERY basic, not even passenger airbag, just big compartment!
That's I must've seen in a local scrppy then. Effectively it had two glove boxes. :y
Yeah, just hinges up. Some had the 8v 2.0 as well. But the age the OP is buying won't be an issue.
GLS Sadly is base spec :(
The 8V models were called the Edition S, and were only around after launch for a while
-
If buying the car will empty your pockets and leave no reserve,STOP.
The car has only 4 months mot!,not good enough at all.Negotiate 12 mths mot at this sort of price(definitely no more money) or walk away. To say the roll bar links will need doing in the next 10k miles is A VERY STRANGE STATEMENT.If they are rattling they need doing now if they are not then its a complete guess as to when they may need doing.I would hazard a guess that this is a lame excuse to cover the fact if you hear an odd knock whilst driving its these when in actual fact its something far more expensive the seller already knows about.This seems to be the only mechanical info so far and is so short of any detail its scary. Be very wary that the clutch is in good shape,has it ever towed? Take someone with you well clued in at inspecting suspension components,testing clutch etc. You must hear the car start from cold.If there isn`t much info on work done in the last couple of years then assume you will be needing to do it.
At this price it doesn`t mean it needs to come with faults,it ought to be fault free,good tyres,good exhaust etc.
Take no notice of anyone telling you to GO FOR IT, especially on info supplied so far unless they are guaranteeing it for you.
-
If buying the car will empty your pockets and leave no reserve,STOP.
The car has only 4 months mot!,not good enough at all.Negotiate 12 mths mot at this sort of price(definitely no more money) or walk away. To say the roll bar links will need doing in the next 10k miles is A VERY STRANGE STATEMENT.If they are rattling they need doing now if they are not then its a complete guess as to when they may need doing.I would hazard a guess that this is a lame excuse to cover the fact if you hear an odd knock whilst driving its these when in actual fact its something far more expensive the seller already knows about.This seems to be the only mechanical info so far and is so short of any detail its scary. Be very wary that the clutch is in good shape,has it ever towed? Take someone with you well clued in at inspecting suspension components,testing clutch etc. You must hear the car start from cold.If there isn`t much info on work done in the last couple of years then assume you will be needing to do it.
At this price it doesn`t mean it needs to come with faults,it ought to be fault free,good tyres,good exhaust etc.
Take no notice of anyone telling you to GO FOR IT, especially on info supplied so far unless they are guaranteeing it for you.
;D ;D ;D
Its 10 years old with 130k on the clock and £995, its a cheap run around.
-
It is also quite possibly 4 mths away from a scrapyard!,so at this age and mileage 12 mths mot is a must.
-
.....,
so at this age and mileage 12 mths mot is a must.
A 12/13 month ticket still doesn't mean it's not 4 moths away from being scrapped. ;)
-
Later GLS does have air con but I think wind up rear windows
-
If buying the car will empty your pockets and leave no reserve,STOP.
The car has only 4 months mot!,not good enough at all.Negotiate 12 mths mot at this sort of price(definitely no more money) or walk away. To say the roll bar links will need doing in the next 10k miles is A VERY STRANGE STATEMENT.If they are rattling they need doing now if they are not then its a complete guess as to when they may need doing.I would hazard a guess that this is a lame excuse to cover the fact if you hear an odd knock whilst driving its these when in actual fact its something far more expensive the seller already knows about.This seems to be the only mechanical info so far and is so short of any detail its scary. Be very wary that the clutch is in good shape,has it ever towed? Take someone with you well clued in at inspecting suspension components,testing clutch etc. You must hear the car start from cold.If there isn`t much info on work done in the last couple of years then assume you will be needing to do it.
At this price it doesn`t mean it needs to come with faults,it ought to be fault free,good tyres,good exhaust etc.
Take no notice of anyone telling you to GO FOR IT, especially on info supplied so far unless they are guaranteeing it for you.
thanks for the Imput guys...
It will empty my pocket for now but june/july time i will have more money for MOT etc...
I went and had a good look around the car today and it seems in pretty good order, viewed the car at the home address and from Cold, sounds like a normal diesel car to me, it's not noisey but not quiet at the same time... i checked the oil cap and the washer bottle cap and also the contents of the washer bottle.... all seemed ok to me...
The chap has only had it approx 4-5 months and bought it for a cheap run around...now he has a company car and doesnt need the Omega...
after inspecting the engine bay i came across a small leak or an old leak and i took some photos for you guys to hopefully let me know what it is or could be..I apologies for the quality of the pics....taken on phone...
(http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab118/coastie123/Omega%20bits/enginebay.jpg)
(http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab118/coastie123/Omega%20bits/IMG_0108.jpg)
(http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab118/coastie123/Omega%20bits/IMG_0106.jpg)
(http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab118/coastie123/Omega%20bits/IMG_0107.jpg)
-
The first two pics are of the EGR which sits on the end of the intake manifold, bizarrely I have just walked in from cleaning mine which had a similar leak, so I think this is not uncommon, and why experts on here recommend cleaning the EGR regularly.
The last pic looks like a possible rad leak, and needs input from someone with more expertise.
HTH :y
-
the last picture is a cover on the back of the rad but it looks like oil.... could it be the EGR has sprayed??
Is there anyone in the southwest that is willing to help out and give the car a good going over for me!!!!!
-
if you look at the first 2 pics, there seems to be alot of oil spray between the EGR and the belt.... I take it the EGR is the shiny Disc with the black cable coming from underneath it...
if you look at the third picture... tha rad cover and just above the belt(on the right of pic) has the same substance which seems to be oil....
we had the engine running for about 10 minutes and i couldnt see any leaks...
one thing i did notice is the a/c was dripping about halfway back the car underneath...
Sorry to be so vague but im not to good with cars!!!
-
Well, well just take a look at my post "Tractor Owners" it answers your question about the EGR valve leaking.
And to add when I first took mine for a service (I do my own now thanks to OOF) they replaced that small rubber connecting hose to the EGR valve. You can't see it until you remove the black plastic cover. It was leaking and spraying oil all over the front area, just like the one you're looking at buying. The fan helps it to spray everywhere, mainly front right.
Hope this helps, and if I were closer I would have certainly helped in looking at the car with you :y
Mick ;)
-
if you look at the first 2 pics, there seems to be alot of oil spray between the EGR and the belt.... I take it the EGR is the shiny Disc with the black cable coming from underneath it...
if you look at the third picture... tha rad cover and just above the belt(on the right of pic) has the same substance which seems to be oil....
we had the engine running for about 10 minutes and i couldnt see any leaks...
one thing i did notice is the a/c was dripping about halfway back the car underneath...
Sorry to be so vague but im not to good with cars!!!
If it was around RH side roughly halfway back from the front of the engine then no worries they all do it.
Should be clear water :y
Mick
-
Mine has a perpetual oil leak, which I have tried to track down since I had the car...
Mine is a GLS spec and in all honesty, it is a lovely car to drive, but, it does lack "toys". Having said that, the only thing I really would like is Cruise Control...
As has been said, the oil should ideally be changed every 3000 miles. I have to admit, that I am not the best at doing the oil as frequently as it should be done, but, she drives well and takes the abuse I give her...
-
Bid him £900 with 12 mths mot,and leave a deposit if he accepts,walk away if he wont accept this or somewhere very close.£600 as is.Might be a very reasonable chap but he is doing you no favours if there are some issues come mot time.Being too far away i can`t help anymore than that and even then the 12 mths test is no guarantee of untroubled ownership but at least the odds are slightly more in your favour.
If i was selling a car with only 4 mths mot i would expect to be bid in the 'dangle berries'!,in fact i wouldn`t reasonably expect to be able to sell an omega with such a short test unless the buyer was mechanically astute and could satisfy him or herself as to the overall condition regarding mot passworthiness .Good cars exist,bad ones(the moneypits)are at every corner.
The clutch would still be my major concern!You need to get the brake pipes checked for corrosion and that none of the shockers are weeping/leaking and put your fingers into the spring seats to check there are no breaks in the coil at the very bottom.
I dont get any confidence from the fact he has owned it such a short time regardless of the reason/excuse.Check the mot history online,it could even possibly have failed one already recently and is being sold with the older certificate.
Have a look on ebay at any cars for sale privately,BLOODY AMAZING how many folks are about to get or have just got company cars !, must be because of the economic boom.
-
if you look at the first 2 pics, there seems to be alot of oil spray between the EGR and the belt.... I take it the EGR is the shiny Disc with the black cable coming from underneath it...
if you look at the third picture... tha rad cover and just above the belt(on the right of pic) has the same substance which seems to be oil....
we had the engine running for about 10 minutes and i couldnt see any leaks...
one thing i did notice is the a/c was dripping about halfway back the car underneath...
Sorry to be so vague but im not to good with cars!!!
If it was around RH side roughly halfway back from the front of the engine then no worries they all do it.
Should be clear water :y
Mick
It was centre of the car in between the front and rear doors if that makes sense....
as to the Tractor Owners post.... That seems to be roughly where the oil is but yours in a hell of a lot cleaner.....
The only gut feeling i have about this car is the amount of oil as you can roughly see in the pics....
Ive had a bad experience buying a petrol omega and the head went within a day and that had less mileage on it!! I know the BMW 2.5TD engine is alot more robust... Im going to phone around a few mates to see if they can look over it with me...
Mick, can't you take a holiday to the seaside for a day!!! Only joking!!
regards
shaun
-
if you look at the first 2 pics, there seems to be alot of oil spray between the EGR and the belt.... I take it the EGR is the shiny Disc with the black cable coming from underneath it...
if you look at the third picture... tha rad cover and just above the belt(on the right of pic) has the same substance which seems to be oil....
we had the engine running for about 10 minutes and i couldnt see any leaks...
one thing i did notice is the a/c was dripping about halfway back the car underneath...
Sorry to be so vague but im not to good with cars!!!
If it was around RH side roughly halfway back from the front of the engine then no worries they all do it.
Should be clear water :y
Mick
It was centre of the car in between the front and rear doors if that makes sense....
as to the Tractor Owners post.... That seems to be roughly where the oil is but yours in a hell of a lot cleaner.....
The only gut feeling i have about this car is the amount of oil as you can roughly see in the pics....
Ive had a bad experience buying a petrol omega and the head went within a day and that had less mileage on it!! I know the BMW 2.5TD engine is alot more robust... Im going to phone around a few mates to see if they can look over it with me...
Mick, can't you take a holiday to the seaside for a day!!! Only joking!!
regards
shaun
The only thing that would make sense with a leak that far back on the car would be an exhaust joint leak.
Cold start, leaky joint = condensing water from that point. Had it with my saloon, thought where's the water leak, from exhaust joint :y
Well that's all I can think of anyway :-/
As for my oil leak, well I did clean it up before the pics were taken. They can look bad if left to build up. I've done mine around three times now in as many years.
I'm up North for my hols in 2 weeks, York, so can't make it ;D ;D
Mick ;)
-
Bid him £900 with 12 mths mot,and leave a deposit if he accepts,walk away if he wont accept this or somewhere very close.£600 as is.Might be a very reasonable chap but he is doing you no favours if there are some issues come mot time.Being too far away i can`t help anymore than that and even then the 12 mths test is no guarantee of untroubled ownership but at least the odds are slightly more in your favour.
If i was selling a car with only 4 mths mot i would expect to be bid in the 'dangle berries'!,in fact i wouldn`t reasonably expect to be able to sell an omega with such a short test unless the buyer was mechanically astute and could satisfy him or herself as to the overall condition regarding mot passworthiness .Good cars exist,bad ones(the moneypits)are at every corner.
The clutch would still be my major concern!You need to get the brake pipes checked for corrosion and that none of the shockers are weeping/leaking and put your fingers into the spring seats to check there are no breaks in the coil at the very bottom.
I dont get any confidence from the fact he has owned it such a short time regardless of the reason/excuse.Check the mot history online,it could even possibly have failed one already recently and is being sold with the older certificate.
Have a look on ebay at any cars for sale privately,BLOODY AMAZING how many folks are about to get or have just got company cars !, must be because of the economic boom.
Just how I came to own my TD estate.
Went down to Swindon to look at it, looked it over, test drive, deal done.
He then showed me his brand spanking new VW 4x4 (can't remember what model) company car, the reason he was selling the TD.
But yes I would be a bit suspicious of him selling after only owning such a short time. :-/
Mick ;)
-
water dripping means the air con is working
-
Thanks for all the input regarding this....
He has sent me an e-mail saying he has been offered £900 as is....
I will leave it and go for a 2.5 V6 petrol that i have my eye on instead..
its just that Gut feeling thingy me bobby!!