Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: PhilRich on 28 April 2010, 20:31:09
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Hello All :y
Can anyone help with my latest problem?
The car has had a heavy shuddering through the body (not the steering wheel) at around 65+ mph for about 2 weeks now. I had the front tyres replaced day before yesterday, which reduced road noise but had no effect on the shudder. To be honest I get a gut feeling it is power related but not sure why (sad or what!?).
If I accellerate through the shudder, it decreases slightly above 80mph but returns when i get back to 65ish. I have also noticed the shudder decreases slightly when I go downhill & increases uphill, so must be associated with engine load? The plugs were new last month after my head gasket renewal & the coil pack looks in normal condition. I am not getting any codes thrown up, nor is the EML on. Any ideas where I should be looking to cure it? Thanks, Phil. :y
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shaft,engine mounts,wishbones can be ..
but imo you must feel some shudder at the steering also (not like balance problem)
edit: wishbones and mounts can be checked simply by a lever but having witnessed shaft balance , they check it off the ground and you needto close the tc..
did you try full geometry check before ?
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shaft,engine mounts,wishbones can be ..
but imo you must feel some shudder at the steering also (not like balance problem)
edit: wishbones and mounts can be checked simply by a lever but having witnessed shaft balance , they check it off the ground and you needto close the tc..
did you try full geometry check before ?
Hello Cem, nice of you to answer so quickly :y
I can hardly feel the vibration through the steering wheel at all, it is through the accellerator pedal & car body. I haven't had the time yet to find a place relatively close to me that does full geometry work, as WIM is too far South for me to travel at the moment. I will ask my son to check the suspension linkages ASAP. :y
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shaft,engine mounts,wishbones can be ..
but imo you must feel some shudder at the steering also (not like balance problem)
edit: wishbones and mounts can be checked simply by a lever but having witnessed shaft balance , they check it off the ground and you needto close the tc..
did you try full geometry check before ?
Hello Cem, nice of you to answer so quickly :y
I can hardly feel the vibration through the steering wheel at all, it is through the accellerator pedal & car body. I haven't had the time yet to find a place relatively close to me that does full geometry work, as WIM is too far South for me to travel at the moment. I will ask my son to check the suspension linkages ASAP. :y
vibrations not easy to find if its not a geometry problem.. :-/
being sensitive , I spend considerable time and money for that..
for you to pinpoint the problem try using high tire pressures (for them not to compansate), this time you will feel vibrations more clear..and see at what speed they begin..
you said
" I have also noticed the shudder decreases slightly when I go downhill & increases uphill, so must be associated with engine load"
although this lessens the probability of geometry problem, personally I would still start from there .. to eliminate and be sure about the causes one by one..
edit:
also my experience says engine mounts and wishbones must start vibration earlier .. so let someone drive and you sit behind for control..
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swap front and back wheels arround or /and have the backs balanced and see if it makes a difference. For the sake of a bit of time or a few quid at least you illimate all wheel balancing.
Allso checked for bent wheels, bulges on tyres.
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swap front and back wheels arround or /and have the backs balanced and see if it makes a difference. For the sake of a bit of time or a few quid at least you illimate all wheel balancing.
Allso checked for bent wheels, bulges on tyres.
Will do Skruntie mate, thanks :y
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I'd put money on the centre prop bearing.
But am skint ;)
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Could this be a sensor problem or breaking down of plugs/leads or coil pack.
Have you tried the famous "paper clip" test to try to get some error codes.
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id go with scrunty
steering vibration - front wheels
body vibration - rear wheels
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Sorry i've taken so long to answer lads. Thank you all for your input, I am slowly trying out all the different fixes as I get a spare few minutes, cos our lass has got me painting now, she wants to put the house up for sale again now the housing market seems to be on the move again! :o
I'm still buggered getting over this illness, but the Consultant said I needed to get regular exercise and by god she took him at his word LOL ;D ;D
I will let you know how I get on with the car (if I live long enough! ::)). ::)
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Phil, a little advice for you... Do not start fitting the LPG stuff until you sort this problem... It will add more unknowns into the mix ;)
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Phil, a little advice for you... Do not start fitting the LPG stuff until you sort this problem... It will add more unknowns into the mix ;)
Duly noted Paul, thanks mate :y
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Phil, a little advice for you... Do not start fitting the LPG stuff until you sort this problem... It will add more unknowns into the mix ;)
Duly noted Paul, thanks mate :y
It should give me a chance to do the How 2 for the front end too ::) ::)
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Hi,
I have experienced body vibration twice in the past. On one occasion it was a rear tyre the other was the propshaft.
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I'd put money on the centre prop bearing.
But am skint ;)
Me too :y (on both counts ;D )
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Update:
I swapped the front (brand new) tyres onto the back & vice versa, as advised by Skruntie ( thanks mate :y). One rear tyre had the inside edge worn smooth & both are only just legal tread depth. When I drove it after the swap, it was immediately apparent there is a problem with the old tyres or a warped alloy as the steering wheel jumps from side to side at low speed & shakes like mad at 30 -40mph (did not go faster than this :o) There is no discernable damage to be seen on either alloy, & swmbo said she couldn't see anything amiss when I did a few drive - byes (her sense of humour was amiss though, cos when I asked her 'how much for a quick time darlin', she muttered something about me not being able to afford her cos I was spending all our hard earned on the 'money pit car' ::) :D)
Anyway, my eldest lad is taking the car to his work to check it over & fit another 2 tyres! ::) Then, hopefully I can start on the LPG conversion, which should be lots of fun all round!! ;D ;D ;D
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Update:
I swapped the front (brand new) tyres onto the back & vice versa, as advised by Skruntie ( thanks mate :y). One rear tyre had the inside edge worn smooth & both are only just legal tread depth. When I drove it after the swap, it was immediately apparent there is a problem with the old tyres or a warped alloy as the steering wheel jumps from side to side at low speed & shakes like mad at 30 -40mph (did not go faster than this :o) There is no discernable damage to be seen on either alloy, & swmbo said she couldn't see anything amiss when I did a few drive - byes (her sense of humour was amiss though, cos when I asked her 'how much for a quick time darlin', she muttered something about me not being able to afford her cos I was spending all our hard earned on the 'money pit car' ::) :D)
Anyway, my eldest lad is taking the car to his work to check it over & fit another 2 tyres! ::) Then, hopefully I can start on the LPG conversion, which should be lots of fun all round!! ;D ;D ;D
But why were the tyres worn on the insde edge? Surely this is not a wheel balance problem?
I had a similar wear problem which the tyre chap said was because I had put part worn fronts on to the back... I then did a trip to Spain without putting the tyres up to full load pressures. The problem then was that the front wishbone bushes were worn and my swopping the tyres to rear made the problem worse.
dave
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Good result matey :y. surprising how many times wheels and tyres become an issue.
I know everyone is different, but I all ways like my tyres in matched pairs, and generally allways fit brand new tyres to the rear. then if there is a manufacture/wear problem the tyre fitters cant blame the tracking. Allthough there can still be issues on the rear, they are generally less common.
Get the spring, shocks and bushes when you get the chance on yours.
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Update:
I swapped the front (brand new) tyres onto the back & vice versa, as advised by Skruntie ( thanks mate :y). One rear tyre had the inside edge worn smooth & both are only just legal tread depth. When I drove it after the swap, it was immediately apparent there is a problem with the old tyres or a warped alloy as the steering wheel jumps from side to side at low speed & shakes like mad at 30 -40mph (did not go faster than this :o) There is no discernable damage to be seen on either alloy, & swmbo said she couldn't see anything amiss when I did a few drive - byes (her sense of humour was amiss though, cos when I asked her 'how much for a quick time darlin', she muttered something about me not being able to afford her cos I was spending all our hard earned on the 'money pit car' ::) :D)
Anyway, my eldest lad is taking the car to his work to check it over & fit another 2 tyres! ::) Then, hopefully I can start on the LPG conversion, which should be lots of fun all round!! ;D ;D ;D
But why were the tyres worn on the insde edge? Surely this is not a wheel balance problem?
I had a similar wear problem which the tyre chap said was because I had put part worn fronts on to the back... I then did a trip to Spain without putting the tyres up to full load pressures. The problem then was that the front wishbone bushes were worn and my swopping the tyres to rear made the problem worse.
dave
I believe they must have originally been on the front at some stage, or even swapped from another car knowing what I now know about the dealer! >:(, & only one tyre has the edge worn. I have had the car 12 months now & the tyres that have been on the front since I bought it have just been renewed as they were barely legal, but neither of those showed any sign of uneven wear/ setup problems? :y
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Good result matey :y. surprising how many times wheels and tyres become an issue.
I know everyone is different, but I all ways like my tyres in matched pairs, and generally allways fit brand new tyres to the rear. then if there is a manufacture/wear problem the tyre fitters cant blame the tracking. Allthough there can still be issues on the rear, they are generally less common.
Get the spring, shocks and bushes when you get the chance on yours.
Thanks Skruntie mate :y
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Final Update on this problem.
My eldest lad fitted new tyres to the other two wheels today, so now got a full new set of rubber for £160!!! He said the worn edged tyre was out of shape & that had caused the bad shaking & vibration, he also said that on the way home it was so quiet & smooth he was doing 90 before he realised it (yea right! ::)) Well, I gave it a run out tonight & it is like driving a different car! Beautifully smooth, a real pleasure to be behind the wheel again. Jobs a good 'un, now where's that LPG kit? ;D ;D ;)
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Final Update on this problem.
My eldest lad fitted new tyres to the other two wheels today, so now got a full new set of rubber for £160!!! He said the worn edged tyre was out of shape & that had caused the bad shaking & vibration, he also said that on the way home it was so quiet & smooth he was doing 90 before he realised it (yea right! ::)) Well, I gave it a run out tonight & it is like driving a different car! Beautifully smooth, a real pleasure to be behind the wheel again. Jobs a good 'un, now where's that LPG kit? ;D ;D ;)
Good result. :y :y :y
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swap front and back wheels arround or /and have the backs balanced and see if it makes a difference. For the sake of a bit of time or a few quid at least you illimate all wheel balancing.
Allso checked for bent wheels, bulges on tyres.
second that, with roads in the condition they are in,some alloys are easily bent out of shape.
when i purchased my mig, it needed tyres on the rear.
tyre fitter commented that he could not get them 100%
strip of weights 5" long on the inside both sides.
ps (should make sure im at the end of a thread) ::)