Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Omegafantasy on 20 May 2010, 18:36:28
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Good evening all :)
My Omega is finally on the road again, it sure took some time to get things done, but well worth it.
I have checked with the thread and pictures in http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152565204, but I have one question: The smaller hose that is molded onto the larger hose to the IAC, what should it be connected to? I think I have mixed up something hehe.. As it is now, it's connected to the rear multi-ram valve, which I think is wrong. Maybe it's for the fuel pressure regulator?
If anyone can clear this up I'd be pretty happy, the car lack some power..
Besides this, the X25XE to Y26SE conversion went without much trouble. I did not change the rocker covers (=exposed plug holes which filled up with water when the car sat for some weeks without the scuttle fitted).. A pain to drain :p
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Hiya,
The idle control valve smaller pipe, goes to the fuel pressure reg on the inlet manifold :y
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Aha!
Thanks for the prompt response and clearing that up ;)
A quick dinner and I'm off doing some plumbing.. Cheers :)
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Well, plumbing is done and the multi-ram system is working perfectly. I even think the FPR is happy.
On the other hand, I have one more case, which suddenly became more evident as the engine changed response; it's hesitating when pulling from low end to about 4000 rpm. I can't describe it in great detail, but the closer I get to 4000 the more it is stuttering. At 4000 it's like flicking a switch (almost like my modified C30SE in the old Omega A (Carlton) when the dual-ram opens). It's pretty powerless in the bottom (won't even let my wheels slip a bit in roundabouts when wet).
Some things I can think of:
- HT leads
- DIS pack
- Fuel pressure? (Filter?)
- Some other dubious electrical connection
What puzzles me is that it really comes to life at 4000 and it idles and drives very smooth unless I floor it. And no, no fault codes stored.
If it was an older car with distributor I'd say it was ignition timing, but that can't be the case on this system (at least you can't adjust it).
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A little update regarding the poor response/misfire:
Today I've checked 3 of the spark plugs (just for the easy access and steaming hot engine). All three looked very nice, hvite and clean insulator with a tiny brown ring at the end. Electrodes looked flawless. Must be changed quite recently.
I tried disconnecting the knock sensors (as described in another thread) and took her for a spin. EML light right away and completely undrivable. That rules out DIS pack, or? I still have a feeling it's the DIS-pack or leads, I just don't want it to be that expensive (we're talking £250 for the DIS and £130 for the leads here in Norway)!
Also, while driving, I have some kind of vibration/resonance from the engine from about 2000 to 4500 rpm, which again points towards ignition.
Does anyone have any clue where to look for fault? I don't like being outrun by old volvos :p
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Is your multi-ram set up operating correctly?
The control flaps are meant to open/close as the revs change to give a variable length inlet tract. The the natural frequency of the inlet pipework is intended to match the frequency of the inlet pulses to aid filling the cylinders with air.
IIRC the flap in the H shaped piece behind the radiator should be closed up until about 1500rpm and the flap in the back of the plenum should be closed up until 4000rpm.
If they both stayed closed at higher revs then I imagine there would be an audible resonance and loss of power :-/
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I have checked those and they do work as they should. You feel it really good at 4000 rpm also, but still, there's not enough power. It's comparable to a four-banger as it is now :(
I've also been thinking about fuel supply, but then I wouldn't be able get more power in the top-end?
The FPR; it's connected to the hose from the intake duct going to the IAC (as in pre throttle). To me it sounds wrong :s I won't have much vacuum there when the IAC or throttle is nearly closed. Opening the throttle would cause more suction in the intake, but still wouldn't put a lot of vacuum on the FPR. Am I right here?
I have built this assuming the Y26SE and X25XE FPR works the same way.
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The position of the take off for the FPR seems wrong to me too but that is the way that GM designed it apparently.
I am sure you must have checked it already but I would check the cambelt / camshaft timing again.
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Well, I haven't checked the timing yet. I really really should do! I got the engine nearly fresh from service though. About 1500 miles since full service with cambelt (although no evidence if tensioners was changed too). Gotta be sad for the previous owner getting rear-ended right after big service :-? Sigh.. Dismantling the cambelt cover is a several beer job, but better do it anyways.
I'm thinking about trying two things:
1) Block vacuum hose to FPR and see how it acts.
2) Apply constant vacuum to FPR for comparison.
EDIT: Have now tried option 1, blocking the vacuum. Made no difference at all at any load or rpm. This can't be right? Gonna hook up my fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and have a closer look.
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Update:
Have checked all six plugs now and they look ok. Evenly worn (well, they look new) and slightly white ground electrodes (which you can rub blank with your finger).
I have now connected the fuel pressure regulator vacuum to true manifold pressure and that actually helped a bit, but it doesn't change the fact that it's gutless.
On light throttle it's ok, acting normal. On WOT from 1000 rpm in second gear it is still hestitating a lot, worse the closer I get to 4000 rpm until the back multi ram flap opens. Getting a decent kick from that one, but still only accellerating like a four-banger.
The exhaust is hot, really hot. I cannot touch the tail pipe when idling and if I rev it it's too hot to even get near. My friend burned his hand :D It also smells a bit funny, but nothing like bad eggs as a blown catalytic converter.
One more thing left to do: Check timing.. Awh, not looking forward to dismantle that :'(
Still looking for clues or hints if anyone has the same experience?
Just FYI; this is a Y26SE with X25XE sensors and intake to fit 95 Omega. EGR valve is blocked with blanking plate right at the plenum. Injectors, fuel rail and FPR from Y26SE, DIS pack from X25XE.
I'm about to order a megasquirt or something... :s
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Update again:
I got a bit upset about the whole thing so I did things a bit faster :p
Removed the intake ducts, aux belt and everything then took off the cambelt cover. Everything is lined up correctly according to markings on the cams and crankshaft. Although, there are two markings on each cam, one on each was marked red, I used those as a reference. Everything seems fine :s
Did not have a chance to look at the tensioner as the cover won't go completely off unless I remove the aux tensioner, tricky tricky. No excessive wear and tear to be seen, just a tiny tiny bit of belt dust on the waterpump, but nothing alarming.
Guess I put it back together then...
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Sounds to me like its being starved of air. Mine was the same when cold air feed got blocked by a rag. ( its a long story ).
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Hehe, that sounds like a nice story ;)
Well, I'm almost certain mine isn't blocked. If I put my hand over the intake behind the grille it can suck my hand in if I rev it. You also get the "open air filter" sound if you jump it hard.
I still believe it's fuel problems. I just can't diagnose it. If I only had "My Naff Code Reader" or tech2 I could look at the parameters.
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But if it was a fuel problem why would it run ok after 4000 rpm ? Could it be a multi ram problem ?
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It doesn't run fine over 4k, it's just a bit better when the flap opens. Would still get outrun by a four-pot auto :o
I think the multi ram is fine, everything opens as it should now.
Also, not sure if I mentioned it: below 4k and WOT, it starts to vibrate a bit at the same time as it hesitates. Hmm, maybe try some higher octane fuel just to see if it retards ignition way too much.
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Are you sure it hasnt got a missfire?
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It could be a misfire aye, just unsure what I can do to be sure about that. I have no spare DIS-pack that fits and sourcing one in Norway is unbelievably expensive (£250+).
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Then again you said all the plugs looked a good colour so maybe its not a missfire. Does it tick over nice and smooth.Have you checked for codes?
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Yes, the plugs look brand new (not strange since it had major service before I got it). It ticks over nice and drives quite nice unless I floor it. It has some occasional stuttering at low rpm though, but I've never had a V6 who doesn't.
Just a sidenote: Why did they make the V6 so delicate and fragile? My old straight six (C30SE) seems unkillable, more power and torque to boot :-?
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Just a sidenote: Why did they make the V6 so delicate and fragile? My old straight six (C30SE) seems unkillable, more power and torque to boot :-?
To be fair (and I've had both 2.6 Carlton and 3.0 Senator) the 3.0 Omega will leave the Senator for dead..... if it's working properly.
I concur that the Chain Driven 3.0 S6 is a more 'stable' engine, but it's lacks that sound of the V6 :)
EDIT@ Sorry, I forgot to reply to your problem...... I'd suggest a cat has failed, hampering exhaust. :-[
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Hehe, my Omega A (err, Carlton for you) would do circles around my (and my friends) V6, but the older one is a fair bit lighter too, and slightly modified (cams, fuel supply).
You're suggesting a cat and I won't disagree. Been thinking that myself, but I just can't figure out why I am able to rev it under load if it were blocked. It would at least explain the smoking hot exhaust.
My old Vectra 2000 (Cavalier) ate two cats in a year and I know how that was when blocking the exhaust.
Oh boy, if I have two melted/clogged cats I have to replace them with something.. Like pipes :-/ About £1000 each here.
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Hehe, my Omega A (err, Carlton for you) would do circles around my (and my friends) V6, but the older one is a fair bit lighter too, and slightly modified (cams, fuel supply).
You're suggesting a cat and I won't disagree. Been thinking that myself, but I just can't figure out why I am able to rev it under load if it were blocked. It would at least explain the smoking hot exhaust.
My old Vectra 2000 (Cavalier) ate two cats in a year and I know how that was when blocking the exhaust.
Oh boy, if I have two melted/clogged cats I have to replace them with something.. Like pipes :-/ About £1000 each here.
My guess would be that at high revs, the pressure is sufficient to blast through the partial blockage. At low revs, the blockage is preventing airflow.
Whenever I've heard of rear sections of exhausts getting that hot, it's always been cat trouble :(
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If the cats are blocking, it ain't by much. I wonder what killed them if they're shot..
I have noticed a very very small leak from each manifold/downpipe joint, but that couldn't affect the lambda that much?
By inspecting the plugs I can only think of a lean mixture (slightly white ground electrodes). Changing the fuel filter today just to see..
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Ok, fuel filter changed. No difference at all >:(
DIS-pack? If I only could test it somehow. It feels like really retarded timing. Could also describe the sound and movement like when the TC is active on snowy roads.
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I wasted time (and money) chasing a misfire on my first V6 because I ignored advice to fit new plugs.
The symptoms were that it would run fine at small throttle openings & low revs but misfire if I gave it too much throttle below 4000rpm.
When I fitted the new plugs it solved the problem. The old plugs looked fine until I compared them to new ones when it was obvious that the electrodes had been eroded and the gap was twice as big as it should be.
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Well, I think those plugs are brand new. Could not see any erosion on the electrodes either, but sure it wouldn't hurt changing them. It's only £100 anyway, far cheaper than a DIS pack + leads.
When yours was misfiring, did you get a kick at 4000 rpm when the flap opened? My previous engine (X25XE) just changed character, no "nitrous" kick :-/
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Well, I think those plugs are brand new. Could not see any erosion on the electrodes either, but sure it wouldn't hurt changing them. It's only £100 anyway, far cheaper than a DIS pack + leads.
When yours was misfiring, did you get a kick at 4000 rpm when the flap opened? My previous engine (X25XE) just changed character, no "nitrous" kick :-/
My previous car was a 1994 car with the X25XE engine and manual transmission. It was a long time ago so my memory is a little hazy but I would say it 'changed character' rather than gave a kick in the back at 4000rpm.
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Hmm, my Y26SE kicks a whole lot at 4k, but that might be because something is very wrong.
I just papercliped it (have no warnings though). It's showing a code 136 and the usual 31 (engine off). Code 136? Unknown Output Driver Error. What on earth could that be? The only thing I know I could get an error of is the lack of SAI (unplugged the 40 amp fuse), but that didn't give me an error.
If anyone is able to check; is the wiring for the injectors exactly the same on Y26SE and X25XE?
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I reinserted the fuse for the SAI pump, but it didn't change my 136 code.
Been searching for info about the Motronic 2.8.1, but it seems like noone have reverse engineered it or have any other data. Most output drivers from the ECU have a fault code mapped up to it, but an "unknown output driver" makes me think a serious ECU fault. As far as I know, all electronics are connected properly. I mean; how hard can it be when I've only touched the loom on the engine itself?
I don't have a spare ECU to test with either and they are a rare find in this country :( Mine does not have immobilizer, thankfully :)
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If there are no warning lights I think that means it is a stored code.
Maybe a result of you unplugging things but no longer present?
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I was thinking the same so I'm clearing the ECU now, disconnected the battery while I eat some food.
Sigh, I'm sick of driving that slow thing now. It saves rubber though ;)
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I disconnected the battery for an hour or so, hooked it up again and read codes before I even started the engine. Still getting the 136 code. Fired her up, running just like before (as in poor).
Now, could this be that the ECU is fubar? I've never heard of a broken ECU, but with my luck I wouldn't be surprised :'(
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just a thought have you tried running it with the fuel cap off?
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No I haven't tried that intentionally, but it acts the same way right after fueling and there is no vacuum in the gas tank when opening it.
..starting to wonder if I should do a compression test on the engine :o
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Ok, to summarize and clear my head a bit:
Possible causes so far:
- Blocked exhaust (both cats?)
- Restriction in the intake (very unlikely)
- spark plugs (unlikely, they look brand new)
- HT leads (possible, but the error is constant. I think bad HT leads would cause erratic behaviour)
- DIS pack (this is my number one suspect)
- ECU (Gives me an error when reading codes (136))
- Fuel supply (have changed filter and the pump is one year old). I can't notice any difference any way I connect the FPR vacuum. Open air, constant vacuum, pre-plenum vacuum.. No difference at all, but other errors could mask the difference due to poor performance.
- MAF (no error codes on it, but doesn't say it works. Have not tried disconnecting)
- Intake air temp (car can barely drive with it disconnected and gives me an error)
- Knock sensors disconnected once, gives me an error and retards timing to "undriveable"
- TPS not touched yet
- Oxygen sensors not touched yet
- Timing (belt) is spot on
- Camshaft sensor not touched yet
- Crankshaft sensor not touched yet
- Compression test: not done so far, but maybe give it a try?
- Intake leakage? Haven't heard any obvious signs of it, but I will try spraying it (and joints here and there)
- Vacuum mixup? Think it's ok (although FPR is "misplaced" on purpose right now)
Symptoms:
- Starts and idles very very smooth
- Drives ok with light throttle and low to medium revs. Very occasional misfire especially with a bit load, but all V6 I've had did that. Normal?
- Flooring it from standstill (1st gear): Not much of a kick, stutters almost like the TC is restricting (even if it's turned off). Kicks a bit at 4000 rpm. Second gear: Shakes and hesitates below 4000, but giving a punch when the front multi ram opens, although not giving full power. Flats out at 4700 and up (it will rev but not very eager). 5th gear: Ok for maintaining speed, but forget accellerating uphill from 60mph (not very steep).
- Exhaust is very hot (you can't touch the tailpipe). Sounds normal - i think. Cats doesn't glow in the dark and overall seems normal, exhaust should be hot.. My tailpipe on the Cavalier and Carlton melted rear diffusors so not shocked by this.
Oh well, this could be a long read; but this gives me and hopefully other readers a better overall picture of the situation. Sourcing parts in Norway is a pain in the [insert rude word here] so I have to use ebay for most.
If anyone have more clues or things to check they're more than welcome to give me a hint ;) I'm about to go mad (if I haven't already)..
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Hello there
I had this exact problem with my old Escort, ran nice and smooth and you could rev it fine, but under load it would be gutless and even buck a little. I took the Cat off and peered inside and it looked as though the honeycomb had fractured and rotated sideways. I took it off the car and put a mask on, then bashed it through with a wrecking bar and put it back on.
It sounded rubbish but proved the problem
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Yeah, that sounds rubbish, but it works. Did the same on my Vectra (Cavalier) some years ago. Mine was completely melted and undriveable. Had no air coming out at the end.
My Omega does breathe though, nice hot steam of exhaust, but could be a bit less than normal of course.
I've seen a link to a cat supplier in the UK here and they look somewhat cheap. Any experiences with cheaper cats?
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Looks like I found some neat info on Autodata here. Looking up the fault code I have (136: unknown output error) it says that the possible cause is "ECM internal short to positive". Now how's that? I would have thought a failure like that would give me a constant error light, not only store a code :-?
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Yet another reply to myself as I make progress.. :p
I finally found my fuel pressure gauge and hooked it up. Idle pressure was 4 bar and no change at all when revving it. This is wrong. Way too high pressure at idle.
Checked the vacuum from the hose on the IACV, almost nothing..
Connected the FPR to the "spare" vacuum for the SAI valve (not in use anymore) and the regulator worked like it should. 2.9 bar at idle rising to almost 4 bar when you floor it.
Can anyone enlighten me a bit regarding the hose from the IACV? It just doesn't make sense..
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This morning, when my nephew take his shower because he is going to school, he saw the leakage in our shower pipe. That is why my father plumb the leakage. This morning, plumbing is the work of my father when I left him to go to work.
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Yet another reply to myself as I make progress.. :p
I finally found my fuel pressure gauge and hooked it up. Idle pressure was 4 bar and no change at all when revving it. This is wrong. Way too high pressure at idle.
Checked the vacuum from the hose on the IACV, almost nothing..
Connected the FPR to the "spare" vacuum for the SAI valve (not in use anymore) and the regulator worked like it should. 2.9 bar at idle rising to almost 4 bar when you floor it.
Can anyone enlighten me a bit regarding the hose from the IACV? It just doesn't make sense..
That sounds pretty spot on.
The FPR setup on the omega does not connect to inlet vaccum as its the air filter side of the throttle plates.
As a result you would expect there to be little vac at idle and the vac level would increase as the load increases.
4 Bar is a little high (3 bar was the standard fit regulator and 3.7 on 2.6/3.2's)
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Symptoms:
- Starts and idles very very smooth
A good start :y
- Drives ok with light throttle and low to medium revs. Very occasional misfire especially with a bit load, but all V6 I've had did that. Normal?
Not at all normal, they are smooth throughout the rev range. Miss fire under larger throttle openings tends to sudgest ignition faults.
- Flooring it from standstill (1st gear): Not much of a kick, stutters almost like the TC is restricting (even if it's turned off). Kicks a bit at 4000 rpm. Second gear: Shakes and hesitates below 4000, but giving a punch when the front multi ram opens, although not giving full power. Flats out at 4700 and up (it will rev but not very eager). 5th gear: Ok for maintaining speed, but forget accellerating uphill from 60mph (not very steep).
Again, ignition can cause this, as can crank sensor (unlikely given no code 19)
- Exhaust is very hot (you can't touch the tailpipe). Sounds normal - i think. Cats doesn't glow in the dark and overall seems normal, exhaust should be hot.. My tailpipe on the Cavalier and Carlton melted rear diffusors so not shocked by this.
Hot yes but red hot no.....unless its been driven or idling for a very long time.
So....I think you need a few checks doing
1) Re-read the fault codes
136 Unknown Output Driver Error
This is a valid code but the question is, what does it relate to. I would be carefuly checking all the ECU relays, EGR (blank it off!) etc.
2) Check the ignition set carefuly, if you can, look at the state of the DIS pack and measure the resistance of the plug leads. Make sure the leads are connected correctly to the DIS pack (as it not obvious)
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Thanks for reply :)
The DIS-pack, plugs and leads was changed after this post, but it didn't change a whole lot other than the misfire is completely gone. It doesn't change the fact that it's dead slow though.. Still shaking below 4k too.
I live very close to the highway (20 second drive!) so I occasionally have to punch it pretty hard when the engine is cold. I try to avoid this of course, but some people have no clue about letting people in on the highway. When cold, it's performing even worse, but the kick at 4000 is even harder at this temp. No idea further up as I don't want to do this on a cold engine.
When taking off from standstill (warm engine) I have to make sure I "land" close to 4000 rpm in the next gear to get any acceleration at all. In second gear this means right before the limiter.
Not sure if you've seen the video I posted (http://omcoslo.com/bil/omegadrive.wmv), but this one shows a bit of driving.
I will see what I can do to the ECU. The code is strange. Will see if I can find a replacement somewhere, but these ECU's are painfully rare in Norway.
If you want, I can post a log of live-data from "My Naff Code Reader".
[size=8]Just thinking; I might be better off rebuilding the 2.5-lump and stick that one in, or even better: my beloved C30SE :)
[/size]
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I need to check TIS to get more info on the code.
We need to start to eliminate some things on your setup.
Cause and Effect.....we know the effect, we now need to find the cause.
Have you blanked the EGR off?
Are you 100% percent sure that the plug leads are correctly fitted to the DIS?
Do you have a vac gauge, what is its idle reading and and 3000rpm reading?....is the needle stable?
Live data might be interesting of throttle position, rpm, lambda. coolant temp, spark advance and MAF
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Great! I'm happy to provide any info you need.
EGR blanked off: Yes, at the plenum side of the valve (as there's nothing to fit the other side of the valve to).
Coincidence: I bought a vacuum gauge yesterday just to test that :)
I am 100% sure that the leads are fitted correctly.
Will connect the gauge later today and see what results I get, but what is more interesting; true manifold vacuum or buffered vacuum (as to the multi-ram solenoids)?
I have also checked fuel pressure with the stock Y26SE FPR and fuel rail. Close to 4 bar with "correct" hose connected. No change at all during different revs. Sealed the hose and connected true manifold vacuum: FPR now regulates from 2.5 to 3.5 bar (normal). No vaccum at all from the hose pre-IACV :s
Replaced the fuel rail, injectors and FPR with the one from my X25XE. Resulted in a slightly better response, but might only be some poor injectors on the Y26SE rail.
Fuel pump: new
Fuel filter: new
I will put up a file or two with live logs, just got to find a way to remove the fuse box panel so I can drive while having it plugged in..
Thanks for the great help so far :)
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Great! I'm happy to provide any info you need.
EGR blanked off: Yes, at the plenum side of the valve (as there's nothing to fit the other side of the valve to).
Coincidence: I bought a vacuum gauge yesterday just to test that :)
I am 100% sure that the leads are fitted correctly.
Will connect the gauge later today and see what results I get, but what is more interesting; true manifold vacuum or buffered vacuum (as to the multi-ram solenoids)?
I have also checked fuel pressure with the stock Y26SE FPR and fuel rail. Close to 4 bar with "correct" hose connected. No change at all during different revs. Sealed the hose and connected true manifold vacuum: FPR now regulates from 2.5 to 3.5 bar (normal). No vaccum at all from the hose pre-IACV :s
Replaced the fuel rail, injectors and FPR with the one from my X25XE. Resulted in a slightly better response, but might only be some poor injectors on the Y26SE rail.
Fuel pump: new
Fuel filter: new
I will put up a file or two with live logs, just got to find a way to remove the fuse box panel so I can drive while having it plugged in..
Thanks for the great help so far :)
pull....its on ball clips, just pulls out once its open :y
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Dont worry about the FPR.
As said, it needs to be pre throttle and you will only see it alter fuel pressure when you have serious load on the engine as the item that effectively gives the restriction to creat a low vaccum is the air filter.you cant do this without a dyno when stationary).
So, you have a 2.6 running on 2.5/3.0 engine management then?
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So, you have a 2.6 running on 2.5/3.0 engine management then?
Yes, that's what I have. All electronics moved over, modified downpipes to fit the 2.6 manifolds, blanked off EGR, X25XE intake, MAF, IAT and everything else. The only thing left which is 2.6 is the bare engine really. Even the flywheel is X25XE (as I didn't get the engine with that on).
One thing I've noticed though. It sounds like a vacuum leak when cold, although it's not a leak. It's the sound of air through the PCV hoses through the sharp angles it takes before entering the plenum. I never heard that on the X25XE as it was completely blocked. Is this normal, and could it affect the response? I could do a dirty trick for a minute just to test. Clamp the PCV hoses and take a quick drive without the dipstick in to avoid pressure build up..
I have also tried to search for leaks using carb cleaner, but everything seems to be in perfect condition.
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So.. Tried hooking up the vacuum gauge tonight to see what's going on.
Hooked it up to the plenum first. It shows a nice strong vacuum at idle and when driving with throttles more or less closed. No vacuum at WOT of course. Everything looks normal.
Second test was on the vacuum canister to see if I actually had any vacuum at WOT for the multi rams, and I certainly have - all the way. When the different solenoids open I can see a short dip in the vacuum and that tells me the flaps are operated. They operate when they should, but it gave me an indicator for something else:
When the rear multi-ram flap opens, I get the growling, shaking, struggling engine sound. If I have 95% open throttle it won't open and the sound is normal. At 100% open, the vacuum dips when the rear flap opens and it starts to growl. What on earth could be causing that? :o This only happens in the 1800-4000 range (approx.)
Could this mean that the Y26SE don't like the short plenum at all? If that's the case, what's the difference?
I am pretty sure that the system is sealed properly. Changed all o-rings when I swapped. Plenum, butterflies and breathers was cleaned properly too, but I see quite a bit of oil in the plenum now (but strangely not sucked in from the butterflies, they are still perfectly clean).
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I have now made a few logs from "My Naff Code Reader". Had a quick look at them, but can't pinpoint anything seriously wrong, other than a few things I noticed:
- TPS will not show more than 83% (4.4V) at WOT.
- Battery voltage drops about one volt depending on either throttle or rpm, not sure which yet. Seems linear.
- O2-Loop 1 BLM Idle sits at 140 while O2-Loop 2 is 88. Not sure why there's a huge difference. Partial load values are more or less equal.
- O2 sensors absolute values can surge violently either direction, but probably normal?
Here's the logs in both CSV and XLS-formats. Divided into three sections:
Warmup (log from pre-start to closed loop and a bit more)
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_warmup.csv
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_warmup.xls
Normal drive. Nothing special, just cruising to gain a stable temperature.
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_drive.csv
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_drive.xls
WOT segments, redline and generally stressing the engine :D
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_wide-open.csv
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_wide-open.xls
If anyone care to analyze or have a look at this I'd be more than happy :) I will try to find things myself, but I really lack reference data.
By the way: After the WOT drive and parked home, the exhaust was wicked hot. Couldn't hold my hand two feet behind the tailpipe. Also hot enough to melt plastic (tried on my bumper :-X).
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I think there are tubes that remove on the connection process you have made. That is the reason why it is not working now. Maybe you can ask the help of the plumber near your place.
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I don't know if anyone had a chance to look at the live data, but I have some "news" about this.
I had an opportunity to test (on a closed track of course) to see how it performed with a bit more load. I was able to reach about 90 mph before the engine "met the wall". Downshift to 4th didn't improve a lot, but perhaps a couple of miles. 3rd even a bit more, but I'm almost redlining there so no point really.
When these tests were done, the smell from the exhaust was wicked, rancid, awful. Not like rotten eggs, but more like burnt clothes and old rags :o
Also: Every couple of weeks I check my oil level when filling gas. Always been spot on at max, but some days ago I noticed my dipstick was DRY :o One litre got it back to max though so no harm done yet, but I wonder how on earth I could suddenly burn all that oil? There's no leaks so it has to be combusted. Will watch it closely in the next days..
I'm really starting to hate my miggy :( Even though I love it!
Stuff I have to fix:
- Engine
- Likely the DMF (can't find slack anywhere else)
- Exhaust
- wishbones (again! these lasted two months)
- droplinks
- one rear wheel bearing + dust cover to hold the e-brake pads
- both rear donuts
- get some trims for the outer panels, or rip them all off like I've done on one door :s
- full geometry setup
I'm so close to buy a BMW or MB now :( They're a lot cheaper than any 2000+ V6 miggy in Norway.
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Right... Time to give up! :-[
The cats was my last option about this poor performance. Ripped them out on saturday, but made no difference at all! Only good thing about it though, I can smell the exhaust and determine mixture by my nose :p It smells rich and with a slight oliy contour. This confirms combustion of oil.. Piston rings or valve seals then? Gotta do a compression test :'(