Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: markomega25 on 22 August 2010, 22:35:15
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I need to replace my rear shocks (self levelling ones) as they were an advisory on last years MoT (rusting in centre!). So I started to dismantle today and noticed the offside rear suspension spring had broken off at the bottom - about one and a third coils up from the bottom. I gather this is a likely problem on these cars (stones getting in and snapping the spring).
So now I need both rear shocks (self levelling ones) and springs. A couple of questions then.
Autovaux don't list either of them on their website - although I haven't phoned yet.
I phoned Vauxhall on Friday about the Shocks, they want £136.30p each :'( and they are not kept in stock so need a special order - so a few days to get them. I didn't order them as I wanted to check mine first. I have no idea how much Vauxhall would charge for the rear springs as I didn't know I needed them when I phoned.
Does any one know if Autovox can supply both, and are they original parts, are they any good?
I had an issue with Autovaux before when they sold me an exhaust (Walkers) and they said they were double skinned like the originals - turned out not to be double skinned & the rubber hangers they supplied are perishing at the rear a year later, so will have to re-fit the originals! So am wary of what I buy off them now.
I don't have a VX trade card so can't get the discount from VX.
Advice on that, or other places to buy these bits cheaper than VX welcome.
Thanks.
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I don't think the shocks are available anywhere else but I bookmarked an earlier thread for if I need springs. It's here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1236465866/45#45 KYB's from BuyPartsBy.
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I don't think the shocks are available anywhere else but I bookmarked an earlier thread for if I need springs. It's here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1236465866/45#45 KYB's from BuyPartsBy.
Thanks for that Teebee, much appreciated. I didn't realise the springs might be so difficult to get, or so expensive from VX.
I have sent an enquiry to "Buypartsby" for both the shocks and springs, I will see what they come back with and will post here for info.
But if they can't do them (at least the springs at reasonable price) then the whole car becomes questionable. This is what I need for an MoT at least:-
£300 Springs from VX - (price mentioned on the thread you linked above).
£270 for shocks (VX)
£200 for a new windscreen (cheapest quote)
£120 for a new front wing painted
£20 for a new rear number plate (Halfords)
So that is £910 for a ten year old car with 94k on the clock. Without anything else the MoT testers may find!
Mark
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I don't think the shocks are available anywhere else but I bookmarked an earlier thread for if I need springs. It's here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1236465866/45#45 KYB's from BuyPartsBy.
Thanks for that Teebee, much appreciated. I didn't realise the springs might be so difficult to get, or so expensive from VX.
I have sent an enquiry to "Buypartsby" for both the shocks and springs, I will see what they come back with and will post here for info.
But if they can't do them (at least the springs at reasonable price) then the whole car becomes questionable. This is what I need for an MoT at least:-
£300 Springs from VX - (price mentioned on the thread you linked above).
£270 for shocks (VX)
£200 for a new windscreen (cheapest quote)
£120 for a new front wing painted
£20 for a new rear number plate (Halfords)
So that is £910 for a ten year old car with 94k on the clock. Without anything else the MoT testers may find!
Mark
£20 for one number plate? Are they having some sort of laugh? I think I'd go somewhere else
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I don't think the shocks are available anywhere else but I bookmarked an earlier thread for if I need springs. It's here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1236465866/45#45 KYB's from BuyPartsBy.
Thanks for that Teebee, much appreciated. I didn't realise the springs might be so difficult to get, or so expensive from VX.
I have sent an enquiry to "Buypartsby" for both the shocks and springs, I will see what they come back with and will post here for info.
But if they can't do them (at least the springs at reasonable price) then the whole car becomes questionable. This is what I need for an MoT at least:-
£300 Springs from VX - (price mentioned on the thread you linked above).
£270 for shocks (VX)
£200 for a new windscreen (cheapest quote)
£120 for a new front wing painted
£20 for a new rear number plate (Halfords)
So that is £910 for a ten year old car with 94k on the clock. Without anything else the MoT testers may find!
Mark
Saloon with self-levelling suspension 72119084 £116.00 retail £73.98 TC (both plus vat)
The £20 joining fee for ABS would save you nearly £100 on these alone.
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[/quote]
Saloon with self-levelling suspension 72119084 £116.00 retail £73.98 TC (both plus vat)
The £20 joining fee for ABS would save you nearly £100 on these alone.[/quote]
Thanks, I agree, and £116 plus vat is the £130.30p net I was quoted for the shocks each. So yes £100 saving with TC. Do they do TC on the Springs as well?
I meant to join ABS a while ago but never got round to it, as I vowed never to go near VX ever again after what they did to me at the last service. Short-sighted I know but that's where I now am.
So my problem is I want to get the car sorted this week. I can't book the replacement windscreen until I know what it's going to cost for the other repairs. I will wait to see what "buypartsby" come back with first (hopefully within a day) and see where I end up.
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try www.bypartsby.com i have used them a few times very reasonable.
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Hi
You could convert to non-levelling dampers and the associated springs at the rear. The previous owner of my car did just that. Its a bit of a retrograde step, but presumably a bit cheaper than replacing as original. Sorry cannot give any details as to cost or source of supply as it was done by previous owner, but perhaps buy-parts-buy can advise.
Alan
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Rear springs from Autovaux £42 each plus VAT. Special order but delivered in 2 days
BB
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I agree about downgrading, just checked Eurocarparts and you can get Bilstein B4's + Springs for £142+Vat, all you then need is to remove the fuse for the compressor (or pull the compressor and sell it to offset some cost!)
And i'm sure someone on the board got a screen fitted for under a hundred, would need to search that.
And before you finally comit it to the scrappie don't forget that you could buy into a car with just as many problems (if not more).
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Thanks for the replies.
Well, Buypartsby emailed me earlier, all they said was the shocks are only available from the dealer, no mention of the springs so I have mailed them back - but it does not bode well.
The Autovaux price seems remarkable, makes me wonder if they are indeed for the self levelling set-up! I will investigate.
I had thought of downgrading, and that is a possibility, but I would like to keep the car standard if possible. So looks like I will have to join ABS and wait for a VX Trade Club card.
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Springs aren't on TC but I believe Marks DTM has found a source of pattern springs for the self levelling.
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OE Shocks 72119084 £73.98 each + VAT
OE Springs 90295666 £181.49 pair + VAT
Cheers
Andy
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The springs are the correct ones from AutoVaux
BOGE part number 25-E49-0 the coil is a smaller diameter
at the ends
BB ::)
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Link for abs trade club card at the bottom of my post, if it helps, although andyc has quoted the tc prices.
Re spring listed on trade club, they are on the web site.
There is a guide on changing rear springs,easy job, may need to unhook the exhaust to get the springs fully free though, shocks are very easy diy.
There is some work involved with keeping omegas on the road, bound to be, latest ones are now 7 years old, but add up how much it's necessary to spend on a newer car and it's by far the cheapest way to get an executive saloon, any other car I would actually want is at least 5k more, no brainer IMO.
Do you have windscreen cover on your insurance policy? £75 excess, job done. Autoglass seem best afaik.
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Self levelling springs are different from normal ones apparently. I got a pair of ZF ones from Autovaux for £103 all in last year.
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Self levelling springs are different from normal ones apparently. I got a pair of ZF ones from Autovaux for £103 all in last year.
Indeed, sl are softer and give a comparatively wobbly ride. I have fitted firmer springs with self levelling shocks recently.
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Well, Buypartsbuy have mailed me today. Self levelling springs (KYB part No RJ6227) £31.51p plus VAT each, so £74 a pair. So with delivery total cost is £82.86p. That's more like it
I think I will order those today [edit - now ordered] and bite the bullet and get the shocks from VX.
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Result.
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Up-date,
Picked up the rear shocks from VX on Friday. They called me in the morning to say they were in, so good service (although at £272 I would hope so). The come with new top rubber bushes and new top nut.
Springs have not arrived yet from Sutton Automotive - via Bypartsbuy, but then they do say 2-3 working days delivery and I ordered them late on Wednesday. So I guess they will arrive later this week.
Consequently, I have not fitted the new shocks yet. But yesterday I took the old one off the offside. The moment I released the bottom mounting and extended the old shock down, it started pissing oil all over the place from a pin hole in the shocks inner sleeve. I guess the MoT man was correct to advise they needed replacing last year.
So, whilst waiting for the springs, I did some remedial work on the rear disc/drum. Cleaned it all up. The whole disc/drum assembly took 2 hours to get off. In the end I resorted to a big whack with a hammer from underneath after using copious amounts of plus gas and rust freeze! Note there is only a small access area from the rear, (no jokes please) so whaked the disc wilst turning it 180 degrees and it eventually came off (no jokes please).
The disc pads came out - no problem (interesting to note that the pads had a soft fibre backing - presumably anti squeel, and these were indented with piston marks), put them back in with copper slip. so hope they work ok.
But the real bas"""d was the drum handbrake pads. Getting the retaining springs back in was hell! Those twist fit pins seemed to slip inside the backing plate in a cavatiy, tooks ages to get them secured using a 2mm plate to slip between the two backing plates to hold the pin in place. How odd, even cars of 40 years ago were easier to do and had access to the rear of the pin. That's progress I guess.
Will post some pic's later.
One thing though! I always imagined the rear springs would be set into a cup at the bottom where it meets the lower trailing arm, but no - so my broken spring is simply resting on the rubber flange. Not good. So I have been potentially riding about for a year with a spring that could have popped out of location anytime?
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But the real bas"""d was the drum handbrake pads. Getting the retaining springs back in was hell!
This worked for me: use a drift or screwdriver and hammer, and knock back the edges of the hole in the backplate that have pulled through. File the part of the pin that goes through the hole so that it is resembles more of an arrowhead ^ the backedges of the arrowhead will grip better.
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I understand what you are saying. However the pin had not pulled through the outer securing plate. So no need for that remedial work.
My problem was there are no holes in the inner (inboard) larger backplate opposite the pin. The two backplates have an internal recess (cavity) where the head of the pin wobbles about in.
I might consider drilling a hole in the final inner backplate opposite the head of the pin just to allow one to put a screwdriver or dolly in and hold the pin in place when compressing the spring etc. and allowing you to turn the pin 90 degrees to locate in the cap. It is difficult to turn the cap 90 degrees when it is under compression.
But the real bas"""d was the drum handbrake pads. Getting the retaining springs back in was hell!
This worked for me: use a drift or screwdriver and hammer, and knock back the edges of the hole in the backplate that have pulled through. File the part of the pin that goes through the hole so that it is resembles more of an arrowhead ^ the backedges of the arrowhead will grip better.
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I see what you mean, it's a different setup from mine. I have a pin with a large head (outboard end), larger than the spring diameter with a slot for a screwdriver and the business end goes through a slot in the backplate, easy enough to push and turn with a screwdriver, just wouldn't grip the backplate well enough.
Your idea of drilling a second hole on yours should work quite well it will allow you to get some kind of packing in behind the pin.
If the pin is steel I suppose you could try a tack weld if you have the gear. :-/
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My problem was there are no holes in the inner (inboard) larger backplate opposite the pin. The two backplates have an internal recess (cavity) where the head of the pin wobbles about in.
I just did the drums on mine and to be honest I wouldn't bother drilling. I found the best plan was to rebuild the brakes in a certain order starting with the pin and spring you are referring to. I slid a wallpaper scraper in that gap then angled the pin away from the hub, the pressure of pushing it to one side stops it moving and I popped the clip on with ease (and you're not trying to work through the access hole).
Then reassemble all the springs and adjuster and lever however suits you leaving the 2nd spring & clip to very last. I then used a modified version of MarksDTM spanner trick, get the spring and clip in place lined up ready to push on (if possible have someone push a screwdriver against the pin which is visible on this side). Now push the spring in through the access hole (dont turn), one you have space drop a 13mm open end spanner in the top. Repeat but this time drop a 14mm spanner in front of the 13mm, at this point I just turned the pin as it had no pressure on it.
So much easier once you have a plan!
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Still waiting for the springs to arrive, maybe later today or tomorrow!
Meanwhile, rear disc/hubs cleaned out and serviced. Car washed (been in the garage for 3 months) and ready for a new windscreen (and springs).
That leak is still there, a globule or two (wine glass full) of oily antifreeze was on the garage floor, not a lot but enough to slip around on - guess it might be the HBV and the oil cooler!
More £ I guess!
Wishing I had an old car now. With self adjusting rear brakes, no CPU or any electronics apart from a start and go button!