Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Kaycee on 31 August 2010, 07:19:48
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Is it a big job to drop sub frame as garage is looking at taking sump and sump block but said it looks like a very expensive operation
car is 3,2 elite
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What are you trying to do?
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actuall quite a simple job.
separate the ball joints ( wishbone to hub-carrier )
unplug the headlamp sensor
separate the anti-roll bar drop-lings either top or bottom
then undo the four bolts and drop the subframe with wishbones & anti-roll bar still attached
you'll also need to remove the steering centre drag link
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i need to change oil pump well i cant garage said very big job as part of pump were oil sensor screws in is cracked and is spewing oil daz could do it but he's booked for 3 week this as been an ongoing saga with this oil leak but it as finaly let go i can see the crack plainly i reckon if i take the sensor out a peice of the casting will fall off
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Hi try using some metal filler as temp repair untill you can get it done :)
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No need to remove the subframe, can be done quite easily (term used loosely) without much effort. I'd do it but I've got to get me a new timing kit and somebody (not from here) borrowed it and I've not seen them or it since >:( >:( Just wish I could remember who it was ;D ;D
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I've recently been contemplating removing the engine from my Omega. It doesn't look that difficult, to be honest, only a few bolts...
I'm just hoping I've got enough clearance otherwise I'll have to use the engine lift to lift up the car body.
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Update on oil pump garage rang yesterday said car would be a bit longer as they are having difficulty removing crank bolt they said " it as been tightened too much should only be 40nm weve bent 2 breaker bars" my heart went in my mouth as i know it should be 250nm so im not feeling confident as they said they were removing radiators to get at it better . so it looks like air con will have to be refilled but the question is. is that sprocket bolt a left hand thread
Thanks
Rob
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bolt not a left hand thread - simply chop it off, new ones are about 12 quid.
can you have another go at describing the oil pump problem - I can't really make sense of your post as you haven't used any punctuation in it.
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You dont have to remove th subframe to get the sump off.
Unbolt the two engine mounts, remove the scuttle and lift the engine 25-50mm with a crane and the upper sump will clear the subframe
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Update on oil pump garage rang yesterday said car would be a bit longer as they are having difficulty removing crank bolt they said " it as been tightened too much should only be 40nm weve bent 2 breaker bars" my heart went in my mouth as i know it should be 250nm so im not feeling confident as they said they were removing radiators to get at it better . so it looks like air con will have to be refilled but the question is. is that sprocket bolt a left hand thread
Thanks
Rob
I would be telling the garage to stop work and moving the car to someone who might actually know what they are doing.
They are either incompetent or are setting you up for a rip-off bill. Either way .. not a place I'd be trusting :(
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I dread to think how they are holding the crank.....if you dont do it correctly then you shear the sintered woodruff key off the lower crank sprocket
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Posts: 292
Doncaster
Gender: male
Drives: 2002 3.2 Elite
Re: Front Sub Frame
Reply #3 - Aug 31st, 2010 at 11:33am Alert Board Moderator about this Post! Quote
i need to change oil pump, well i cant do it garage said its a very big job as the damaged part of the pump is were oil sensor screws in, it is cracked and is spewing out oil, daz said he could do it but he's booked solid for 3 weeks. This as been an ongoing saga with this oil leak, but it as finally let go, i can see the crack plainly where sensor fits if i take the sensor out a peice of the oil pump casting will fall off
thanks for all your views but i think mark may be right i suspect a impact driver will be used but the garage said the mechanic doing the job is vauxhall trained i did say are you sure you can do the job, the boss said of course we can i have an awful feeling it will go pear shaped, the garage is Doncaster supposed to be a good set up.
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Update on oil pump garage rang yesterday said car would be a bit longer as they are having difficulty removing crank bolt they said " it as been tightened too much should only be 40nm weve bent 2 breaker bars" my heart went in my mouth as i know it should be 250nm so im not feeling confident as they said they were removing radiators to get at it better . so it looks like air con will have to be refilled but the question is. is that sprocket bolt a left hand thread
Thanks
Rob
I would be telling the garage to stop work and moving the car to someone who might actually know what they are doing.
They are either incompetent or are setting you up for a rip-off bill. Either way .. not a place I'd be trusting :(
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The update on my oil leak garage rang yesterday said that was all back together and would be ready today(Sat) he said " See you had nothing to worry about " he as just rung me and said " we cant get oil pressure it might be wrong pump we will have to strip it down again" i said did you prime it before you fitted it ie filled it with oil he said shouldnt need it, all pumps i have had to use have to be primed . I know you will say i told you so but no one round here does much with the omega and that cant make me feel any worse now. it would cost 150 to trailer it to daz or geoff and pete. so i think im am going to be stuffed could anyone take pity on me and advise wat to do i went down to the garage and it is in bits so even if i wanted it to take somewhere else im stuffed . bloke said " Dont worry well sort it your old pump was tight on the shaft this is sloppy thats why oil pressure wont come up. Im not a forceful person i trust everyone which is my downfall i suppose but my Beuatiful omega looks like its slipping away grrrrrr
Thanks
Rob
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just as an aside to my problem i have been told it just needs a teaspoon of oil in pump on build up and just start it, im going down to the garage today to see them but ill have to go on the bus, mind i can use my bus pass, all in all i have a sinking feeling its all over for me my lovely elite condemmed to the breakers .
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Modern pumps do self prime.
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Car is back and does look ok but they found that the radiator was leaking theyve changed it said maybe it was caught taking it out so they have stood that so that was good of them, its running ok and there is no sign of a leak but the water level is low but i have to have the aircon recharged they didnt do that as they have not got the facilities but said dont run the climate till its recharged then they said bring it back and we will check coolant level . they charged 275 i supplied the pump
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Car is back and does look ok but they found that the radiator was leaking theyve changed it said maybe it was caught taking it out so they have stood that so that was good of them, its running ok and there is no sign of a leak but the water level is low but i have to have the aircon recharged they didnt do that as they have not got the facilities but said dont run the climate till its recharged then they said bring it back and we will check coolant level . they charged 275 i supplied the pump
Not to bad a price.
Its quite normal for the coolant level to settle after the first drive if they didn't burp the setup correctly so top it up with an antifreeze mix and monitor it.
As for not running the climate, you can, its no issue it just wont chill the air.
The aircon has a low pressure switch which will stop the pump operating so no fear of damage
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Thanks for the advice all,i shall burp it this morning. I only wish that i had changed the pump from day one as that was were the leak was all the time, on examination of the pump, there was what looked like a hole in the cast, so it must have been there for a very long time, and there was a crack running from the small blow hole, this must have accounted for the fact that sometimes it leaked and sometimes not. The heat must have opened the crack in the castings i changed the switch on numerous occasions using different washers/gaskets all to no avail, it never ever leaked stood on drive with engine ticking over only on a run when i came back there was oil all under the switch
Thanks to you all again
Rob
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Thanks once again for all your advice you guys are diamonds, but could i indulge your advice once again .
Whilst i was having car topped up i noticed a small pool of oil under drivers side front of car, on examanitation it looked like transmission fluid they did put a new rad on it but i think it looked different somehow as there was 2 ally pipes running down front of radiator and they start from under neath the 3 peice cover over radiator im sure other one wasnt like that as the cover is not secure its a little floppy if you see what i mean, i have rung them again and they said bring it in but i would like to be a bit in the know what it could be he did say the rad cost 120 and hes stood it but i cant see how as he only charged 270 to do the pump as they say fore armed is forwarned
thanks
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Oh Rob I can't believe you have let those Clowns loose on your car. Its no use phoning me for help then going to them. . . But your call at the end of the day. Good luck mate :y
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Thanks once again for all your advice you guys are diamonds, but could i indulge your advice once again .
Whilst i was having car topped up i noticed a small pool of oil under drivers side front of car, on examanitation it looked like transmission fluid they did put a new rad on it but i think it looked different somehow as there was 2 ally pipes running down front of radiator and they start from under neath the 3 peice cover over radiator im sure other one wasnt like that as the cover is not secure its a little floppy if you see what i mean, i have rung them again and they said bring it in but i would like to be a bit in the know what it could be he did say the rad cost 120 and hes stood it but i cant see how as he only charged 270 to do the pump as they say fore armed is forwarned
thanks
Those alloy pipes are for the gearbox oil cooler, on your age of car this may either be part of the rad or a seperate item (I am guessing its part of the rad given they changed it and now its causing issues!)
So, they need to sort that (might be they did not use new washers if its the type integrated into the rad) and they will need to check the egarbox oil level....take a print out of the maintenance guide for them :y