Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: M20LSY on 13 September 2010, 15:34:04
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Does anyone know how easy/hard it is to change the bulbs? I've just bought a set of OEM bulbs from fleebay. :P
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I found it easier to remove the entire headlight from the car..only 3 fixing points/several bits of pipe and the connecters at the back.
Makes the fiddly bit of removing the securing ring so much more accesable and only takes a while longer,but safer.
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i would recomend remving the headlamp before trying to change the bulb
i take it these wernt cheap so you dont want to damage the bulb while trying to put it in
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I have only changed the offside one, no trouble at all with the headlight in situ. I suppose the nearside one has the battery in the way. Easy job to remove headlight, (although I didn't). ::)
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Thanks guys.
I'll probably just take the headlamps out because I don't wanna break the plastic casing or damage the bulbs because your right, they weren't cheap.
I don't know if they will even make any difference. I simply bought them to see if they would brighten them up a little. :-/
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brighten them up ?
can i ask have alredy got xenons and if you have are they blown if not why you changing them
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Yeah I have standard Xenons but after 130 odd thousand miles they start to look a little dim. They are definately a lot less bright compared to say an Insignia with Xenons.
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i didnt think xenons deteriorated that way unless they were on there way out
maybe im wrong
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No mate I don't know either, you could well be right. I just thought I'd give myself a project & I'll hope for the best! :D
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When the bulbs are starting to fail you will see a pink tinge to them. But, yes over time Xenon D2S bulbs will start to loose their brightness, but they invariably last longer than halogen bulbs.
It's recommended that Xenon bulbs are changed in pairs.
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Changed mine without removing the headlights, fairly easy with care and patience. :)
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Changed mine without removing the headlights, fairly easy with care and patience. :)
Agreed :y
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When the bulbs are starting to fail you will see a pink tinge to them. But, yes over time Xenon D2S bulbs will start to loose their brightness, but they invariably last longer than halogen bulbs.
It's recommended that Xenon bulbs are changed in pairs.
Yeah, that's pretty much the story here. I've got a pair of them sitting so it's all gooood! :D
I'll have a go with the headlights in place. Then if frustration gets the better of me, I'll take them out ha. Just need to wait on this rain going away! :(
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Ive gone for the move the airbox & battery option when I changed mine.
Easy enough :y
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Well I've had the airbox off before, so that'll be alright. Is the battery just a couple of bolts to hold it in?
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Ive gone for the move the airbox & battery option when I changed mine.
Easy enough :y
But will need windows, sunroof and possibly radio codes, depend on model, re setting....?
Plus with shovel hands and the fact the bulb glass must not be touched, personally chose to remove head light.
But each to their own as they say...
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Ive gone for the move the airbox & battery option when I changed mine.
Easy enough :y
But will need windows, sunroof and possibly radio codes, depend on model, re setting....?
Plus with shovel hands and the fact the bulb glass must not be touched, personally chose to remove head light.
But each to their own as they say...
Why would I need the codes for all that? Or is that when I take the battery terminals off? It's a 2000 CDX TD I'll be changing the bulbs on..
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Ive gone for the move the airbox & battery option when I changed mine.
Easy enough :y
But will need windows, sunroof and possibly radio codes, depend on model, re setting....?
Plus with shovel hands and the fact the bulb glass must not be touched, personally chose to remove head light.
But each to their own as they say...
Why would I need the codes for all that? Or is that when I take the battery terminals off? It's a 2000 CDX TD I'll be changing the bulbs on..
Battery disconnected will stop one touch windows working, needs reset. Hold in the up position for a couple of seconds.
...will stop sunroof working, needs reset, press and hold dial in in the open, closed and then tilt positions,
...may need radio codes to be re entered depending on radio model. These are on your car pass if you have it which sometimes do not get passed on to the next owner, so if lost, you need to sort that out too. Depends on radio though, my old Cdx needed codes, my current car radio does not.
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I think I'll just try and take the headlights out... save all that kafuffle lol!
Thank's mate :y
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I think I'll just try and take the headlights out... save all that kafuffle lol!
Thank's mate :y
In the interest of safety, always disconnect the negative lead from your battery before doing any work on your car.
Kafuffle's back. ;D ;D ;D
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I think I'll just try and take the headlights out... save all that kafuffle lol!
Thank's mate :y
In the interest of safety, always disconnect the negative lead from your battery before doing any work on your car.
Kafuffle's back. ;D ;D ;D
Damn.. so I'll still need to reset everything? :( I see your about to chip your TD... do you know what kind of power gains you'd be getting?
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I think I'll just try and take the headlights out... save all that kafuffle lol!
Thank's mate :y
In the interest of safety, always disconnect the negative lead from your battery before doing any work on your car.
Kafuffle's back. ;D ;D ;D
Damn.. so I'll still need to reset everything? :( I see your about to chip your TD... do you know what kind of power gains you'd be getting?
Don't know yet. I just got the perfomance chip in the post and, if the rain goes off, I'm going to fit it tonight.
Maybe someone who has already done this can enlighten us both.
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Well someone once said to me that it goes right up to 165-170bhp because our engine is restricted from 150bhp to 130bhp to save the gearbox from exploding. Supposedly the chip lifts the restriction and shoots power up to the above levels...
Can anyone confirm this? :-/
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the ar25 box doesn't like the extra torque that the chip produces,seems a lot of people upgrade to the ar35 as this box will handle the extra grunt
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I'm not sure which box I have. It's the 2.5td with a manual box..
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I'm not sure which box I have. It's the 2.5td with a manual box..
The ar25 and the ar35 are both auto transmissions, you should have no problems with your manual box if you chip the diesel engine. Unless you need an uprated clutch.
Regarding head lights, it seems strange to buy a new set of xenon bulbs just for the sake of it... Is it maybe the headlight lenses that are causing the dim headlights?
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I heard the manual box is slightly stronger/can cope with more torque? Don't know if that's true?
Yeah my headlights lenses are slightly stone chipped and weathered but I got the bulbs at a fair price and it gives me a project... if the rain ever stops! :(
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I think I'll just try and take the headlights out... save all that kafuffle lol!
Thank's mate :y
In the interest of safety, always disconnect the negative lead from your battery before doing any work on your car.
Kafuffle's back. ;D ;D ;D
Damn.. so I'll still need to reset everything? :( I see your about to chip your TD... do you know what kind of power gains you'd be getting?
Good point, but never bothered myself, just kept the keys in my pocket, although hids are not to be messed with :y
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What do you mean "the hids are not to be messed with"?
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on the subject of chipping the manual box will take it no problem!! however if your clutch is even slightly tired it wil burn it!!! lol mines een chipped for nearly 5 years now and never had amiments bother except for the first week when the clutch decided it had had enough!! that was with 87k on the clock!!
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What do you mean "the hids are not to be messed with"?
What they mean is, don't stick your hand in there with them turned on..
Normal headlights are 12V, ~55W (5A) - that'll hurt, probably won't kill you..
HID lamps (gas discharge lamps) are anywhere from 90V to 450V depending on whether the lamp is hot or cold - with one type of lamp requiring in the tens of thousands of volts to fire.
Obviously the current is much, much lower (all this still has to come from your cars 12V system) - but it will hurt like a sonofab***h, and since it'll pass more easily through skin etc due to the voltage, is arguably more likely to do serious damage (like.. death)
Then again, it's a bit like grabbing hold of the open end of an HT lead, and who hasn't done that at least once?
Just me?
Oh.
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....
Just me? ....
It's been a while but ...... yes! I've done it. You try to be careful & not get bitten, but - you do! :-? ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Ahhhh I see!
I had the pleasure of getting shocked and knocked half way across the room when I was younger, so yeah, I'll be carefull with the bulbs. Cheers Aaron! :y
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My favourite was always the ground straps on the back of old CRT tubes back when I was repairing those.. by gods that hurt.
Anyway, you're welcome ;)
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Lol I haven't experienced that one but I feel I wouldn't want to. ;D
Can I ask, what sort of mileage is on your TD?
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You're right, you don't want to.. I think that was the second time I swore in front of a customer (the first time was when I grabbed hold of a live mains cable ;D )
Anyhoo - you can.. Just rolling up on 95k at the moment (and due a service) :)
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95k is good for the year! Mine has about 137ish now. I serviced mine about a month ago, felt a bit better for it.
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I think, despite the mileage, mine had a hard life of towing .. based on the Caravan Club sticker it had when I got it and the dual-plug towbar ;) so it's pretty tired and gets dire fuel economy (showing 26mpg on the display right now) - the bodywork has definitely seen better days, too, with dents here and there..
Which I'm sure is part of the reason I'm toying with getting a later model 3.2 ;) I like things to look nice (which is ironic I suppose when my 'pride and joy' car now also has lots of dents, thanks to other people driving into me when I've been parked up!).. Anyway, I'm rambling :)
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Jeeez oh! 26mpg is brutal for a TD.. mine is doing about 42-47 but I hover about in the low revs. It would be fair to call me a granny driver lol. ::)
I think even a FL 3.2 would do better than 26mpg. Well it all depends on your driving style I suppose. You can pick up a 3.2 or even a 3.0 for buttons these days now though.
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Believe me, that's with me driving like I'm Driving Miss Daisy, too! Around town, admittedly, but it still barely makes it into the 30's on a motorway run.. So yeah, with the price of diesel these days it makes it pretty expensive to run.
Heck, I get ~30mpg out of the MR2 (and that's got an aftermarket turbo, engine management etc etc) - granted it does weigh half what the Omega weighs :)
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Yeah around town is where they suffer. I think mine gets about 30ish round about town. On a motorway run yours should be way higher than that.. it musta been a big caravan they had lol.
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I meant to say, do you have any pics of your MR2 on here? I'd love to see some. I used to have a total fetish for them when I was a bit younger but I couldn't afford the insurance quotes. :(
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Oddly enough I don't have many pics of it - I stopped taking them when it started collecting dents thanks to other people's parking antics (the last was right outside my old flat the night before I signed the deeds on the house where the car would have been safe!) - it wasn't so bad when it was just one dent, then someone hit the front wing.. then the back bumper and took out the rear light in the process >:(
This should work, though :)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v348/29/12/672941203/n672941203_1510996_8306.jpg)
It's very standard from the outside, all the work went on under the skin - stainless tubular manifold, T517 turbo, air/water chargecooler, 525cc injectors, PowerFC engine management, Tein suspension with the electronic damping controller, tubular chassis bracing everywhere underneath.. etc :)
And as a bonus, here's a mate of mine standing by the car looking .. well I'm not sure what he was trying to look like:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v231/29/12/672941203/n672941203_834187_8273.jpg
;D
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I just assumed it was the older model turbo :o I didn't realise these models were turbo'd. It must go like a bleepin bat! I had a shot of my pals, think it was a 1.8, it wasn't very exciting on the straight but round the industrial estate it was quality! The alloys and colour of your car are both really nice. :y
Do you know what sort of power she's putting out? :P
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Isn't that a Toyota MR-S?
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I just assumed it was the older model turbo :o I didn't realise these models were turbo'd. It must go like a bleepin bat! I had a shot of my pals, think it was a 1.8, it wasn't very exciting on the straight but round the industrial estate it was quality! The alloys and colour of your car are both really nice. :y
Do you know what sort of power she's putting out? :P
They were never turbo'd from the factory - unlike the previous generations which were available in Supercharged or Turbocharged form in Japan only, the Mk3 was only ever available NA with the 146bhp lump.
They didn't even think to offer the 190bhp lump from the Celica :( (Although it's a relatively straightforward conversion)
So yeah, they're all 1.8ltr 1ZZ-FE powered unless modified - there are a couple of 3S-GTE (the Mk2) powered ones around, as well as several V6 powered cars now (1MZ-FEs and 3MZs) that have Camry engines in them.
I'd say mine is somewhere around 220bhp with it's current tune, although the engine and so on should be good for ~270bhp should I ever get around to a) finishing mapping it and b) turning the boost up ;D
Isn't that a Toyota MR-S?
Sold as the MR-S in Japan, MR-2 Roadster in the UK and MR-2 Spyder in the US.. So this is an MR-2 Roadster as it's a UK model ;)
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That must be serious fun on the back roads mate! :y ;)
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Aye, that's where it's best :) Although down here there is rarely little enough traffic to use it :(
It's a blast on track, though :)