Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: icecold on 21 September 2010, 18:04:43
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Firstly hello all and sorry if ive posted a double topic but i have looked and i did notice there was a thread on how to replace the radiator sensor.
I purchased this car a couple of days ago.
All seemed well untill last night when i could smell an overheating smell.This morning when i went out in it i noticed after a while the engine started to overheat i.e into the red.
After letting it cool down then finally arriving home i eventually came to the conclusion that the main (single fan)on radiator was not coming on as it supposed to do so when hot.
Now i presume that the sensor or fan is faulty.
Can someone tell me how i test this i know i need to maybe bridge out the sensor but can someone please explain that to me as i dont want to blow anything ?
Not knowing the car i am unsure whether the 2 front fans should be coming on also which they are not.
Again i dont even know whether im turning the aircon on as dont know how to do this lol.
Can someone help me out it would be much appreciated and explain whether all 3 fans should be running when it gets hot and whether that temp sensor underneath top hose r/h side from front of car actually controls all 3...im a bit lost.... :'(
The car is omega 2.5 v6 cd x reg
Thanks in advance
Jeff
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Have a read here .. will help you check out your fans I hope .. :)
Post #14 .. last one on page 1 by Dave AW
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1276355362
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Thanks for you reply
Ok ive just finished testing the fuse/relay compartment out as per that post and diagram and the following is what i get.
Nothing happens when i bridge the pins.
Just to comfirm im doing this without the keys in ignition.
Ive also tested with meter and pin 3 has no volts
All fuses in this compartment seem fine.
Any suggestions on what fuse if any runs that and where its located or what to do next would be great :)
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Sounds to me like you have no power to the fans .... I'll try and look at the wiring diagram and see where pin 3 gets its power from ... can't promise anything !!
Edit :
can't even find the test plug in the diagrams !! but re-reading the link I gave you Dave AW describes pin 3 "as ignition live via fuse 29"
so perhaps you need the igntion on to do the test ??? .. and a check of fuse 29 might be in order as well !!
Clutching at straws now I'm afraid .. :(
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Ok that would be great...im well gutted atm lol
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tested just before with ignition on as i noticed where it said that afterwards lol but its still has 0 volts...gonna go and test fuse.
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tested just before with ignition on as i noticed where it said that afterwards lol but its still has 0 volts...gonna go and test fuse.
Careful with your bridging wire, it's easy to short out pins & pop fuses ....... apparently ::) ::) ::)
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ok definetly didnt blow any fuses as i was careful bridging and 100% sure never touched the live :)
All fuses are ok i just checked and whilst there checked the rest with my meter just for sake of it..So i have no power to my fans and all fuses are ok and confirmed 0volts at pin 3 with ignition on or off.
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Thanks to Andy .. this link gives more details
http://www.autobahnstormers.org/downloads/2.jpg
Seems the test connector works both ign off and on .. .... or should ... :(
I think you are going to have to try and trace the wire off pin 3 and see why it has no power, or bridge 12 volt to pin 3 in order to run the tests of the fans ..
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Thanks to Andy .. this link gives more details
http://www.autobahnstormers.org/downloads/2.jpg.. ..
I would assume you've to log onto the ABS forum first though :-/
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Thanks to Andy .. this link gives more details
http://www.autobahnstormers.org/downloads/2.jpg
I would assume you've to log onto the ABS forum first though :-/
Ahh .. good point, well presented .. :(
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Ok tx for info off i go back in the garage lol
Much appreciate all your help :y
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i put a direct 12v to pin 3 and attempted the test again.
Still the same nothing what so ever except lhs/ has a unit with 2 pipes and some electrical connections at 1 end underneath the radiator filler bottle this seemed to energise when volts applied to pin 3 and maybe had a clicking although it sound like wires arcing.
Damn its getting more complicated :'(
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Ok tx for info off i go back in the garage lol ........
You mean you've got a garage you can get your car in!?!? :o ;) ;) ;)
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thats a good question...its a huge car but i managed get the bonnet in at least haha...have a multigym in there so there no way it would go in but i doubt it would fit in either way longer than it looks .
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i put a direct 12v to pin 3 and attempted the test again.
Still the same nothing what so ever except lhs/ has a unit with 2 pipes and some electrical connections at 1 end underneath the radiator filler bottle this seemed to energise when volts applied to pin 3 and maybe had a clicking although it sound like wires arcing.
Damn its getting more complicated :'(
Thats the electric coolant pump (on cars with winter pack). Give the orange relay under in the triangular relay box a sharp tap and try your test again!)
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Still nothing...i wired the radiator fan direct to the battery and it works fine...dunno what to do now but off to buy a relay etc so i can wire the fan direct and at least cool the car so i can use it...
Any other suggestions greatly appreciated untill i solve this it will have to stay on switch/relay for now:(
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have you checked the fuse in fuse box beside battery one in there controls fans. I think its 20 amp white. I had this go on my old 2.5. Hope this helps.
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Yes i have i checked all fuses with a meter whilst i was intially trying to run the rad fan tests.
I have also another job to do now which is cleaning the idle control valve keeps stalling when i stop at lights etc..reading up tell me to dismantle and clean this along with the pipes.
diff day diff headache :)
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it may sound wierd but either pull the fuse out and/or replace it you may be srprised to find it works.