Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Mike2530 on 01 October 2010, 11:30:21
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I am looking at changing the engine as it has hit 150k on the clock. What would i need to change on the engine ? I gather the ECU and Injectors are essential, Can anyone tell me of anything else please ?
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Injectors are the same IIRC. You could probably get away with keeping the ECU as it meters fuel based on airflow so it will probably be fine. Existing ECU could probably be coded for the y32se engine with a tech 2.
If you decide to change the ECU, you need the immobiliser ECU and transponder chips from the donor.
Electrically the engines are the same so just unplug the loom behind the battery and lift the whole lot out, replace with new engine.
If it's an auto you probably want an AR35 gearbox rather than the AR25 that was originally fitted to the 2.6 and the diff ratio will be different. 2.6 diff will give good acceleration on a 3.2 due to lower gearing but cruising might become a bit more tiring with the higher engine revs. Fuel consumption could also be a little heavier.
Kevin
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Mine is a manual and an estate so would also be looking for a final drive to suit
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This might help: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1163895469
The 3.0 manual did have the slightly uprated R28 manual box but you will be fine with the R25 if that's what you've got. It's the auto gearboxes that are critical.
Kevin
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All i have to do now is find a 3.2 motor, will accept a knackered motor for reconditioning as thinking of supercharging too ;D :D
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Finding a relatively low mileage one is like hens teeth or rocking horse poo, mate.
May I suggest going to somewhere like Cleave motor salvage in Gloucester that put the mileage on their engines when they display them, and further suggest you use the AR35 auto or R28 manual box as a reference if you can afford it as an absolute minimum cos the AR25 will not last long, and the R25 will be too weak to handle the power if its a higher mileage 'box. The rear diff from a 3.0 MV6 or estate will be fine.
Vulcan engineering in Hamwell will sell you a damn good short engine with a decent guarantee too.
HTH
Mike.
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I've had an R25 in three successive track cars - it's outlasted the car each time.
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I am looking at changing the engine as it has hit 150k on the clock. What would i need to change on the engine ? I gather the ECU and Injectors are essential, Can anyone tell me of anything else please ?
Just ran in!
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I am looking at changing the engine as it has hit 150k on the clock. What would i need to change on the engine ? I gather the ECU and Injectors are essential, Can anyone tell me of anything else please ?
Just ran in![/quote]
Is there any reason that you want to change the engine other than mileage? looked after the Omega engine has inter gallactic capabilitys. 250K is not unheard of
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my 2,6 has now 215 000 km on the clock and still going strong. I think any fairly modern car will do 500 000 without opening the engine...
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I like your thinking but just run in is rubbish, just run in was when i bought it with 27k on the clock, the remaining 125K have been hard on it as i t has bee a work horse and Vauxhall got the cam timing completely wrong when i had them fit a cambelt at 40K, they got the cams out by one tooth. It is starting to smoke on startup and accasionally when driving plus leaks oil so i wouldn't say it was anywhere near run it, 30yrs as a mechanic says it is nearly ready for re-build.
I am looking at changing the engine as it has hit 150k on the clock. What would i need to change on the engine ? I gather the ECU and Injectors are essential, Can anyone tell me of anything else please ?
Just ran in!
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I lifted the heads at 115,000 to do the valve seals.
The bores were like new.
If it is smoking it is valve seals.
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Your car is 2001?
They fitted shite valve seals that year
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As i said i have been spannering for 30 years so i realise what it may be, i am also doing a degree in Race Car Design & Engineering so the last thing i am going to do is just do the stem seals on a 150k mile engine, it is a rebuild or replacement, depends on what i can be bothered doing and how far my student loan stretches.
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As i said i have been spannering for 30 years so i realise what it may be, i am also doing a degree in Race Car Design & Engineering so the last thing i am going to do is just do the stem seals on a 150k mile engine, it is a rebuild or replacement, depends on what i can be bothered doing and how far my student loan stretches.
30 years as a mechanic and you still have a student loan???? :-/ ;D
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Despite your experience and education on the subject, Martin is right. VX used crap valve stem seals in 2001 and that is the cause of your smoking on start up. The timing being 1 tooth out wont have made any real difference to the life of your engine, just power output and fuel economy.
Just run in is a bit tongue in cheek - but with a new set of seals and regular servicing your engine will almost certainly be good for at least another 100,000 miles. ;)
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As i said i have been spannering for 30 years so i realise what it may be, i am also doing a degree in Race Car Design & Engineering so the last thing i am going to do is just do the stem seals on a 150k mile engine, it is a rebuild or replacement, depends on what i can be bothered doing and how far my student loan stretches.
Still a lowish mileage for these engines, mine is about 130,000 and is fine
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I've not seen one with worn bores yet - have maybe had 30 apart over the years.
have changed a few ring sets on these engines, but more really because they're apart and not 'cos they've needed it.
reboring just because of mileage is way OTT, but I certainly wouldn't advise against it, it's your money, you should be able to spend it how you wish.
actually, sometimes on race-cars I've re-used piston rings in both old and new bores
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I decided to design race cars 3 years ago so yes i have a student loan as i haven't yet finished my degree.