Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Auto Addict on 01 January 2011, 08:53:14
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Had several calls from a mate yesterday, he was trying to change his oil (2.5 V6 estate).
He said the oil filter cap was turning but not un-screwing?
Any ideas please?
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sure it hasn't unscrewed and just being held on by gunk :-? the thing he doesnt want to hear is that thread has sheared :(
if it has undone enough to turn by hand try putting a screwdriver in the gap to apply pressure outwards whilst turning hopefully the threads will recatch :y
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Sounds like the paper element type and the lid has been overtightened?
Try to counterhold the filter body with a filter strap wrench perhaps?
Kevin
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From what he explained over the phone, it was very stiff, and just kept turning and turning. Does sound like it's turning the filter body as well.
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Sounds like it is turning housing. Best thing to do now is to hold housing, and break the seal on the cap, then remove housing altogether, and refit all as per TIS :y
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Sounds like it is turning housing. Best thing to do now is to hold housing, and break the seal on the cap, then remove housing altogether, and refit all as per TIS :y
Can you e-mail me the instructions off TIS please?
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Cant do pics due to a Win7 issue with my PDF generator...
Oil Filter Housing, Remove and Install (as of MY 1999)
Remove
Detach oil filter housing cover (1) and remove with oil filter insert (3) – place collecting basin underneath.
Remove fastening bolt (4) and remove oil filter housing (5).
Install
Attach oil filter housing with new seal ring (6) to cylinder block – tightening torque 45 Nm / 33 lbf. ft.
Attach oil filter housing cover to oil filter housing with new seal ring (2) and new oil filter insert – tightening torque 25 Nm / 18.5 lbf. ft. 15Nm (TIS is wrong - get figure from the stamp on the cap!)
Inspect
Check engine oil level and correct if necessary.
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(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/oof_odds_and_sods/OilFilterHousing.JPG)
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Should be OK to reused housing to block seal if its still soft, and undamaged.
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Thanks for that :y
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There is something strange about these filter houseings, IMHO it has something to do with the sealing O ring tightening up, or adhereing itself within the housing my reason for comeing to this conclusion is a few months back I did an oil change, and also replaced the filter and lid sealing ring. I am allways very particular about tightening torques and in this case the lid, complete with new O ring, lubed up with engine oil, screwed in nicely by hand untill contact with lid to outer case was made. I then nipped up the lid to 15NM as per the cast spec on the lid no probs I thought we all know what thought did!! A week or so later I needed to validate the lack of swarf in the engine oil sump and also the filter with regard to a contaminated crank shaft sensor issue,The lid would NOT RELEASE. Infact I consider it lucky that the case itself finally moved and broke off the flange on the base of the filter that locates in the engine block,this allowed me to wangle the housing away complete. Even with the housing held by a bench vice it needed a breaker bar + a 24mm 6 point socket to release the cap, needless to say I now have the 'spin on' filter mod.Frankly its a mystery to me how this could tighten up to the extent that it did in such a short time it most definitely was NOT overtightened I still have the offending housing and O seal and again I have examined them and with my limited experience can only return to my conclusion that the O seal being the only new part in the assembly it has to be faulty perhaps of the wrong composition,again at the risk of being a bore can I reiterate the lid was screwed up to 15NM and no more.
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There is something strange about these filter houseings, IMHO it has something to do with the sealing O ring tightening up, or adhereing itself within the housing my reason for comeing to this conclusion is a few months back I did an oil change, and also replaced the filter and lid sealing ring. I am allways very particular about tightening torques and in this case the lid, complete with new O ring, lubed up with engine oil, screwed in nicely by hand untill contact with lid to outer case was made. I then nipped up the lid to 15NM as per the cast spec on the lid no probs I thought we all know what thought did!! A week or so later I needed to validate the lack of swarf in the engine oil sump and also the filter with regard to a contaminated crank shaft sensor issue,The lid would NOT RELEASE. Infact I consider it lucky that the case itself finally moved and broke off the flange on the base of the filter that locates in the engine block,this allowed me to wangle the housing away complete. Even with the housing held by a bench vice it needed a breaker bar + a 24mm 6 point socket to release the cap, needless to say I now have the 'spin on' filter mod.Frankly its a mystery to me how this could tighten up to the extent that it did in such a short time it most definitely was NOT overtightened I still have the offending housing and O seal and again I have examined them and with my limited experience can only return to my conclusion that the O seal being the only new part in the assembly it has to be faulty perhaps of the wrong composition,again at the risk of being a bore can I reiterate the lid was screwed up to 15NM and no more.
It's a rubber 'O' ring, how can it lock up the ally filter housing? :-/ I'm not doubting the problems you had, but I've never had any problems with mine. :y :y
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I have purchased the conversion kit incase I ever have the same problem. My previous V6 1996 had a spin on filter why on earth did VX change to this cannister design.
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I have purchased the conversion kit incase I ever have the same problem. My previous V6 1996 had a spin on filter why on earth did VX change to this cannister design.
cars had the canister type filter years before the metal throw-away cartridge type, and now we've gone full circle again. :-/
There's nothing wrong with the actual design, it's tried & tested.
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Well Andy I hear what your possibly saying and again I can only say 15NM was the torque used and just over a week later about 300mls the Ba****d would not shift I was only hopeing an explanation would be forthcomeing I did a detailed explanation in the hope it would reveal the cause after all the post started with Auto Addicts contact haveing the same problem can I put this to you hypothetically if I filled the O ring lid recess with a sealer such as Sikaflex then could you not expect it to lock up almost solid as it appears in my case to have done? I'm simply saying the rubber O ring may have become more adhesive or swollen than expected due to it haveing the wrong chemical composition
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Hope you included '3M TL70 threadlocker' in your kit Robson or something similar I got caught out!
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Well Andy I hear what your possibly saying and again I can only say 15NM was the torque used and just over a week later about 300mls the Ba****d would not shift I was only hopeing an explanation would be forthcomeing I did a detailed explanation in the hope it would reveal the cause after all the post started with Auto Addicts contact haveing the same problem can I put this to you hypothetically if I filled the O ring lid recess with a sealer such as Sikaflex then could you not expect it to lock up almost solid as it appears in my case to have done? I'm simply saying the rubber O ring may have become more adhesive or swollen than expected due to it haveing the wrong chemical composition
Did you try boiling water on the filter housing?
Aluminium has a high coefficient of expansion. A kettle full of boiling water a has an almost magical shock effect if applied quickly.
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I have purchased the conversion kit incase I ever have the same problem. My previous V6 1996 had a spin on filter why on earth did VX change to this cannister design.
cars had the canister type filter years before the metal throw-away cartridge type, and now we've gone full circle again. :-/
There's nothing wrong with the actual design, it's tried & tested.
I think it is about reducing hazardous waste. Spin on filters result in more waste than plain oil filter elements.
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No unfortuneately I didn't. Did consider useing a gas blowlamp as a last resort, You could be right! Heat could solve the problem thinking about it, Might also be the cause as the cats fairly near, I did try holding the outer case as Kevin has mentioned without success, hence the outer case releasing from the block and finally breaking the bottom flange to engine block off the housing casting
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Yours is an odd one Cliffo B. Fitted correctly, and oil changed regularly, these are normally trouble-free...
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No unfortuneately I didn't. Did consider useing a gas blowlamp as a last resort, You could be right! Heat could solve the problem thinking about it, Might also be the cause as the cats fairly near, I did try holding the outer case as Kevin has mentioned without success, hence the outer case releasing from the block and finally breaking the bottom flange to engine block off the housing casting
I'd be careful using gas on it - ally can go up a treat!
Could well be change of temperature in this case though. Weather's been up and down (mainly down) for weeks.
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Yes I know, done about 4 oil changes with no problems at all prior to this lock up situation, in fact I do consider the design of the Hengst filter housing to be very good, and would like to return to that system, but obviously would need to know what caused it first. Brings me back to my interest in Auto Addicts post. :y
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when garage done my oil filter i noticed that it was leaking oil, took it back and after much umming and ahhhing they changed the o seal this actually cured it, it came to light then that the seal supplied in the box was a different thickness and grade compared to another one out of a different box, just wondering whether you might have had same problem but in reverse and with heat caused the o ring to expand and the lid to 'weld' itself to casing
after typing all this i know it sounds stupid but funny things have happened :y
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Hello Cliffo B is TL 70 a stay flexible or rigid locker I assume this goes on the adaptor as it goes into the block.
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Hello Robson,that is correct,what I did was clean the oil out of the threads with some of swmbo's cotton wool buds dipped in celly thinners,then used 3M Scotch-Weld threadlocker No TL70 which as you say is the hardest setting grade to fix in the adapter in the block,I got the thread locker from a local top class hardware merchant, but understand it's available from motor factors,should you have any problems getting this stuff PM me and I'll be happy to help. :y
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Thanks for your input Fiend61,something is now beginning to add up,as I've been driven to it being something to do with the O ring seal, the only new part used, once the possibility of me over torqueing the lid is dismissed it has to be accepted, and of course I'm 100% sure of this :y
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Thanks for your input Fiend61,something is now beginning to add up,as I've been driven to it being something to do with the O ring seal, the only new part used, once the possibility of me over torqueing the lid is dismissed it has to be accepted, and of course I'm 100% sure of this :y
I only use genuine filters (thus o rings), wonder if thats why I've not seen this myself?
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I'm the same TB, only ever use GM stuff,even got the replacement spin on from them :y
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I also do the oil drain while the engine is warm which may help
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Yours is an odd one Cliffo B. Fitted correctly, and oil changed regularly, these are normally trouble-free...
You chaps can add me to the club of seized oil filter canisters.
I knew it would go badly when I had to get a massive breaker bar on the job just to get the sump plug out. :o
If I ever meet the 'mechanics' who 'serviced' this car prior to me owning it, I'm going to punch them in the mouth!
I know exactly what's happened. Not only has this car not been serviced since jesus was being nailed to a cross, but the b#stards who did do it last have used a bloody air ratchet to do up the sump plug and the oil filter canister. And you can add to that the 20'000 gallons of yellow sealent they've used all over the place instead of gaskets and every job becomes a test of brute strength!
Man, I hope that karma exists. I had that the buggers who worked on this car have to suffer a lifetime of seized bolts and stripped threads. >:(
And as for the ex owners, running a car where the metal carcuss / weave is sticking through the front tyres and the brake pads on all four corners are down to the metal is just not cool dude. if you can't afford to run a car, then use a god dam bus you halfwit!
So, pour boiling water over the canister then?
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Suppose it's well worth a try,just don't scald yourself another alternative could be a heavy duty heat gun the sort they use to weld PVC, with hindsight an easy way if it's not going to move would be drill a hole in the housing to lock it with a tommy bar,hope your OK and good luck :y