Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: V6 CDX-er on 05 January 2011, 11:41:09
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After changing one of my rear calipers I've lost most of my brake fluid. No bad thing as the system could have done with being flushed anyway. I will be doing this via the three man method. One person bleeding the brakes, another operating the pedal, and a third, (the wife), keeping the brake fluid level topped up.
However, after having had a quick read of the Haynes manual I have a quick question.....
The Haynes Manual states; "Have the assistant fully depress the brake pedal a few times to build up pressure, then on the final downstroke, keep the pedal fully depressed."
"While pedal pressure is maintained, slacken the bleed screw one turn and allow the fluid to flow into the jar. Pedal pressure should be maintained throughout. Follow the pedal down to the end of it's travel if needed, but do not release it. When the flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, then have your assistant release the pedal slowly. Re-check the reservoir fluid level and top up if necessary".
So, my question is, if brake pedal pressure is maintained with the bleed nipple open, then surely brake fluid is going to continue to come out all day long?
Bearing in mind this will be the first time that I have ever carried out this procedure, I'd have thought that once the air bubbles had finished coming out of the hose attatched to the bleed nipple, you'd have let a little more drain out to be sure, then closed the bleed nipple?
Sorry for the stupid question, but what's written in the Haynes Manual sound to me like you just keep the bleed nipple open & brake pedal depressed until fluid stops coming out? Surely this cant be right?
In advance, cheers :y
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i did mine with the engine running and pressure kit as on me own, last bubble of air and then lock it off starting from pass side rear to drivers side then pass side frunt and the drivers side, had no problems. :y
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You only get a small amount of fluid out on each press, hence shutting the nipple each time so as not to suck air in.
Personally prefer the pressure bleed systems using a spare tyre.
How much fluid have you lost? has the reservoir ever been empty? if so you could have air in the abs system which needs computer help to get rid of
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When the pedal is pumped a few times and then held down it builds up a bit of pressure. Loosening the nipple releaces the pressure forcing the air and some fluid out. Even though the pedals pressed its at the end of its travel so the pressure is relieved. Tighten the nipple and repeat the process till theres no air left coming out.
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The fluid only comes out as long as the pressure in the system is still there. So it stops almost as the pedal hits the floor. I would advise closing the nipple slightly before the flow stops as this prevents anything going back in. The process is marginally slower but who cares.
I would do it with two people as the topping-up can be done between bleeds but if you want to have a party go ahead.
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You only get a small amount of fluid out on each press, hence shutting the nipple each time so as not to suck air in.
Personally prefer the pressure bleed systems using a spare tyre.
How much fluid have you lost? has the reservoir ever been empty? if so you could have air in the abs system which needs computer help to get rid of
The resevoir is pretty much empty.
If I do have air in the ABS system, is it going to be an expensive fix?
Could I drive the car to somewhere with the computer thing to get the job done, or would it be call out to home?
If the car wouldn't be driveable with air-locks in the ABS, would it be ok to go turning it around on my driveway, or am I likely to have no brakes at all?
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The fluid only comes out as long as the pressure in the system is still there. So it stops almost as the pedal hits the floor. I would advise closing the nipple slightly before the flow stops as this prevents anything going back in. The process is marginally slower but who cares.
I would do it with two people as the topping-up can be done between bleeds but if you want to have a party go ahead.
Cheers Chris. To me, this seems like the best way forward.
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You only get a small amount of fluid out on each press, hence shutting the nipple each time so as not to suck air in.
Personally prefer the pressure bleed systems using a spare tyre.
How much fluid have you lost? has the reservoir ever been empty? if so you could have air in the abs system which needs computer help to get rid of
The resevoir is pretty much empty.
If I do have air in the ABS system, is it going to be an expensive fix?
Could I drive the car to somewhere with the computer thing to get the job done, or would it be call out to home?
If the car wouldn't be driveable with air-locks in the ABS, would it be ok to go turning it around on my driveway, or am I likely to have no brakes at all?
you would have brakes, but spongy pedal and less effective brakes.
To rid, you run the abs pump, while bleeding the brakes.
You need tech2, or Vaux/Op com type computers to do this.
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After changing one of my rear calipers I've lost most of my brake fluid. ......
Next time you do any brake work which involves removing calipers (or slave cylinders) or anything that leaves an open end on the system, you need to remove the reservoir filler cap and put a piece of polythene/plastic carrier bag over it & seal it with the cap over the top to try to make an air tight cap. This will help stop fluid from draining out.
Or put your hand in your pocket & buy a hose clamp .... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Draper-Hydraulic-Brake-Hose-Clamp-Pipe-Clamping-11534-/130466410141?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e60676e9d :y :y :y
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After changing one of my rear calipers I've lost most of my brake fluid. ......
Next time you do any brake work which involves removing calipers (or slave cylinders) or anything that leaves an open end on the system, you need to remove the reservoir filler cap and put a piece of polythene/plastic carrier bag over it & seal it with the cap over the top to try to make an air tight cap. This will help stop fluid from draining out.
Or put your hand in your pocket & buy a hose clamp .... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Draper-Hydraulic-Brake-Hose-Clamp-Pipe-Clamping-11534-/130466410141?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e60676e9d :y :y :y
You're clearly not from the "mole grips and a rag" brigade.
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You're clearly not from the "mole grips and a rag" brigade.
I didn't mention that one cos I didn't want to incriminate myself by even knowing of this method! ::) ::) ::)
I confess that I have done it in the past. ;) ;) ;)
(I have Vise Grips ;))
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There are certain pieces of kit that I would not consider being without (lessons learned over the yrs)and Gunson's eezibleed automatic bleeder kit is one at the top of my list it does all it say's on the box:-An air tight seal on the reservoir ensures:fast fluid replacement:one man operation:no contamination:no damage to the system:full instructions supplied.You just connect it to a tyre,fillup the container with fluid,screw it to the top of the reservoir, then go round each wheel bleeder in the proper sequence, simple release of bleeder is like tap, so let it release into a glass jar, as was the old way of bleeding,monitoring for air bubbles,there you go job's a good un,all the best but don't mess about your dealing with brakes.
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..... You just connect it to a tyre, ........
..... after you've dropped the pressure! :y :y You might end up with fluid all over the place if you don't! ::) ::) ::)
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Sorry!! perhaps should have said, up to 20 psi is ok it is in the distructions ::) :y
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An Easy-bleed is indeed a good option. If anything, it eliminated the repeated briefings explaining the procedure to Mrs. KW. :-X
I found the seal around the fluid bottle leaked brake fluid everywhere and it was a pain getting a spare tyre out every time, so mine now just has a schraeder valve on it and I connect it to the compressor, set it to 10-20 PSI and bleed using the fluid in the reservoir. Check the level after every wheel and it's fine.
If you hear a sound like a kid getting to the bottom of his bottle of coke while drinking through a straw you're in trouble - the reservoir is empty. Don't ask me how I know what it sounds like. :-[
Oh, and you don't need the engine running. In fact, if bleeding the manual way I would NOT have the engine running because you can feel what's going on without the brake servo working!
Kevin
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I found the seal around the fluid bottle leaked brake fluid everywhere and ......
That's how I found that the destructions said to drop the tyre pressure. :-? ::) ;) ;)
I have a couple of other spare wheels I use instaed of digging the car's spare out.
Your schraeder valve is a good idea though :y
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An Easy-bleed is indeed a good option. If anything, it eliminated the repeated briefings explaining the procedure to Mrs. KW. :-X
I found the seal around the fluid bottle leaked brake fluid everywhere and it was a pain getting a spare tyre out every time, so mine now just has a schraeder valve on it and I connect it to the compressor, set it to 10-20 PSI and bleed using the fluid in the reservoir. Check the level after every wheel and it's fine.
If you hear a sound like a kid getting to the bottom of his bottle of coke while drinking through a straw you're in trouble - the reservoir is empty. Don't ask me how I know what it sounds like. :-[
Oh, and you don't need the engine running. In fact, if bleeding the manual way I would NOT have the engine running because you can feel what's going on without the brake servo working!
Kevin
That seal went on mine too, just removed the bottle from the equation and just use it to pressurise the reservoir instead, still with the tyre though.
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Thanks all for the tips and advice. You guys are great. :-*
I've heard good things and bad about the ezi-bleed systems, but with funds being very short, for the moment I think I'll stick to the manual version. By making it a three man job, with one person watching the resevoir at all times, I hope to eliminate the risk of running the system dry of brake fluid.
cheers all :y
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manually you won't need three people and you won't ned the car running just take your time communication is the key with nipple guy starting and pedal guy stopping! and you may need to bleed both sides i always run atube into a glass from the nipple so if it does suck anything back generally it's fluid. never used ezibleed but would love to give it a go but the ammount of use it wouldd get it would be like my wii console!! a toy for a week!
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i always run atube into a glass from the nipple so if it does suck anything back generally it's fluid. ....
but you're more likely suck air past the threads of the nipple rather than fluid back up through the tube. ;)
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Ouch! sorry Kevin you've had probs with cap leakage,must have copped a bad one,or is yours a Gunsons or some other make? I never had any trouble, would have binned mine at the slightest hint, a bit phsycho about brake fluid and bodywork.As an air source, for convenience, I generally lower the front drivers wheel pressure to about 15 psi and use that for the air supply tube as it is long enough to allow the fluid supply bottle to park near the brake fluid reservoir. Easy enough to reinflate a tyre when jobs done.Must confess I've had mine a good few years, last used it a few months back to renew miggy's full system fluid and job done with ease :y
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Don't forget that there is a sequence you're meant to observe when bleeding brake fluid. It's late and I'm drunk so can't remember what it is, but will find out.
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Don't forget that there is a sequence you're meant to observe when bleeding brake fluid.....
which varies with age of car, but as is the case with you, I've had a drink or 5 and will ask Mr Haynes another time ;D
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An Easy-bleed is indeed a good option. If anything, it eliminated the repeated briefings explaining the procedure to Mrs. KW. :-X
I found the seal around the fluid bottle leaked brake fluid everywhere and it was a pain getting a spare tyre out every time, so mine now just has a schraeder valve on it and I connect it to the compressor, set it to 10-20 PSI and bleed using the fluid in the reservoir. Check the level after every wheel and it's fine.
If you hear a sound like a kid getting to the bottom of his bottle of coke while drinking through a straw you're in trouble - the reservoir is empty. Don't ask me how I know what it sounds like. :-[
Oh, and you don't need the engine running. In fact, if bleeding the manual way I would NOT have the engine running because you can feel what's going on without the brake servo working!
Kevin
That sounds very familiar, and is why I bought an ezi-bleed, which works as advertised, but not on SWMBO's Jazz due accessibility of reservoir. :( :( :(
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Thanks all for the tips and advice. You guys are great. :-*
I've heard good things and bad about the ezi-bleed systems, but with funds being very short, for the moment I think I'll stick to the manual version. By making it a three man job, with one person watching the resevoir at all times, I hope to eliminate the risk of running the system dry of brake fluid.
cheers all :y
if you have a motor sport shop near you they in there for £9.99 on sale.