Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: megaomega123 on 08 February 2011, 11:07:12
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I recently had the rear brakes done. New discs, pads, handbrake shoes and a 2nd hand calliper on o/s/r and had 2nd hand abs ecu fitted.
The car needs to go back for the following:
1. Handbrake doesn't hold on steep hills.
2. There is a clonking-cum-clicking noise when I touch the foot brake; from the o/s/r when travelling forwards, quite loud.
3. A rattle from the back when going over a bump.
4. Coolant level warning been on since getting car back but coolant level is good.
I also found a small part in the scuttle. Looks like 13mm hex head, about 10mm long with an o-ring at start of thread. Has a green discolouring to it. Not sure where it is from or if connected to coolant but as I say, no coolant loss.
Any advice to give to garage on return would be good. :y
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I recently had the rear brakes done. New discs, pads, handbrake shoes and a 2nd hand calliper on o/s/r and had 2nd hand abs ecu fitted.
The car needs to go back for the following:
1. Handbrake doesn't hold on steep hills.
2. There is a clonking-cum-clicking noise when I touch the foot brake; from the o/s/r when travelling forwards, quite loud.
3. A rattle from the back when going over a bump.
4. Coolant level warning been on since getting car back but coolant level is good.
I also found a small part in the scuttle. Looks like 13mm hex head, about 10mm long with an o-ring at start of thread. Has a green discolouring to it. Not sure where it is from or if connected to coolant but as I say, no coolant loss.
Any advice to give to garage on return would be good. :y
First off change your garage.
Most of those issues are from when they did the rear brakes, assume discs were fitted? Its not been done right!
For coolant, open cap (with engine cold) push the float sensor a few times, it often sticks. You can get a replacement tank for about £30 :y
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When they finished they told me that the pins had been put in the wrong way round before and the had to cut them off. After fitting everything, 1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.
Not sure what this was about!
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First off change your garage. ......
That's my thought too.
How about a photo of what you found on the scuttle. I wonder if it's from your air/con somewhere :-/ :-/
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I recently had the rear brakes done. New discs, pads, handbrake shoes and a 2nd hand calliper on o/s/r and had 2nd hand abs ecu fitted.
The car needs to go back for the following:
1. Handbrake doesn't hold on steep hills.
2. There is a clonking-cum-clicking noise when I touch the foot brake; from the o/s/r when travelling forwards, quite loud.
3. A rattle from the back when going over a bump.
4. Coolant level warning been on since getting car back but coolant level is good.
I also found a small part in the scuttle. Looks like 13mm hex head, about 10mm long with an o-ring at start of thread. Has a green discolouring to it. Not sure where it is from or if connected to coolant but as I say, no coolant loss.
Any advice to give to garage on return would be good. :y
First off change your garage.
Most of those issues are from when they did the rear brakes, assume discs were fitted? Its not been done right!
For coolant, open cap (with engine cold) push the float sensor a few times, it often sticks. You can get a replacement tank for about £30 :y
Thanks, I'll try that shortly :)
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First off change your garage. ......
That's my thought too.
How about a photo of what you found on the scuttle. I wonder if it's from your air/con somewhere :-/ :-/
I'll get a photo up later. Do any air con parts need removing for abs ecu??
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When they finished they told me that the pins had been put in the wrong way round before and the had to cut them off. After fitting everything, 1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.
Not sure what this was about!
Change your garage.
They sound incompetant! :o Rear pads are held in with pins that are only able to go in one way round no matter how hard you try. Wheel bolts are the same front & back :-/
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First off change your garage. ......
That's my thought too.
How about a photo of what you found on the scuttle. I wonder if it's from your air/con somewhere :-/ :-/
This is another thread we are agreeing on :o ;D
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First off change your garage. ......
That's my thought too.
How about a photo of what you found on the scuttle. I wonder if it's from your air/con somewhere :-/ :-/
I'll get a photo up later. Do any air con parts need removing for abs ecu??
I don't know, but even if they did, it's common practice to put stuff back on after you've removed it! ;D ;D ;D
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When they finished they told me that the pins had been put in the wrong way round before and the had to cut them off. After fitting everything, 1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.Not sure what this was about!
All the same size :-?
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First off change your garage. ......
That's my thought too.
How about a photo of what you found on the scuttle. I wonder if it's from your air/con somewhere :-/ :-/
This is another thread we are agreeing on :o ;D
It's becoming a bit more than coincidence ;D ;D
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1st time I have used this garage as supposedly good reputation. It seems that they made mistakes on every aspect of the repairs. Anyone know where I can find pictures of the shoe assembly so I can get it in my mind?
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When they finished they told me that the pins had been put in the wrong way round before and the had to cut them off. After fitting everything, 1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.
Not sure what this was about!
Change your garage.
They sound incompetant! :o Rear pads are held in with pins that are only able to go in one way round no matter how hard you try. Wheel bolts are the same front & back :-/
Down right dangerous, the pins (imagine big nails) cannot be inserted the wrong way. Unless the bashed them through from the front?
Did they replace the pins and springs?
I'm quite scared about your garage by that last comment :o
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When they finished they told me that the pins had been put in the wrong way round before and the had to cut them off. After fitting everything, 1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.
Not sure what this was about!
Change your garage.
They sound incompetant! :o Rear pads are held in with pins that are only able to go in one way round no matter how hard you try. Wheel bolts are the same front & back :-/
Down right dangerous, the pins (imagine big nails) cannot be inserted the wrong way. Unless the bashed them through from the front?
Did they replace the pins and springs?
I'm quite scared about your garage by that last comment :o
I supplied a new fitting kit with all other parts. It took them 9 hours to do brakes and abs ecu. I paid for 6 hours.
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My advice is don't take it back, find another place, or get a member here to take a look, worth updating your profile with your location, Daz or Elite Pete might be close.
1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.
As Rob mentions, the studs are all the same, so they are basically saying your front wheel has shorter studs to the rear?
Run away now! While you still can!
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Run away now! While you still can!
but not too fast ;)
...... remember that you have iffy brakes! ::) ::) ::)
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My advice is don't take it back, find another place, or get a member here to take a look, worth updating your profile with your location, Daz or Elite Pete might be close.
1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.
As Rob mentions, the studs are all the same, so they are basically saying your front wheel has shorter studs to the rear?
Run away now! While you still can!
There was only one stud that was slightly longer, thus catching. Don't know why one was longer in the first place. It didn't catch on anything before and they siad thats because pins were wrong way round. :-?
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My advice is don't take it back, find another place, or get a member here to take a look, worth updating your profile with your location, Daz or Elite Pete might be close.
1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.
As Rob mentions, the studs are all the same, so they are basically saying your front wheel has shorter studs to the rear?
Run away now! While you still can!
There was only one stud that was slightly longer, thus catching. Don't know why one was longer in the first place. It didn't catch on anything before and they siad thats because pins were wrong way round. :-?
With the pins inserted the correct way (from inside to out) the won't even show through the calliper mount.
If they were inserted the wrong way (outside to in) the larger part of the pin they were bashing it could have been catching.
I wonder if they were right before, and they've put them in the wrong way? :o
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My advice is don't take it back, find another place, or get a member here to take a look, worth updating your profile with your location, Daz or Elite Pete might be close.
1 of the wheel studs was catching on something so they swaped it for a shorter one from the front wheel.
As Rob mentions, the studs are all the same, so they are basically saying your front wheel has shorter studs to the rear?
Run away now! While you still can!
There was only one stud that was slightly longer, thus catching. Don't know why one was longer in the first place. It didn't catch on anything before and they siad thats because pins were wrong way round. :-?
With the pins inserted the correct way (from inside to out) the won't even show through the calliper mount.
If they were inserted the wrong way (outside to in) the larger part of the pin they were bashing it could have been catching.
I wonder if they were right before, and they've put them in the wrong way? :o
That is what I am starting to think. I will clarify when it goes back.
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Here is a picture of what I found in the scuttle. Not very clear as only had phone.
(http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae358/v6miggy/Image018.jpg)
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Here is a picture of what I found in the scuttle. Not very clear as only had phone.
(http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae358/v6miggy/Image018.jpg)
Can't place it :-/ When you said green, I was thinking of the dye they put into the a/c aysten to help identify leaks, the green on the mystery plug is oxide (brass rust ;D)
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Here is a picture of what I found in the scuttle. Not very clear as only had phone.
(http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae358/v6miggy/Image018.jpg)
Can't place it :-/ When you said green, I was thinking of the dye they put into the a/c aysten to help identify leaks, the green on the mystery plug is oxide (brass rust ;D)
Oxidization it is. Looks like its come from a hot place :P
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i would get an aa inspection done stating what had been done by the garage,take this report back to the garage and demand tyey put it right foc,or the trding standers will be knocking there door. :y
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Went to kwik fit today and both anti rattle springs were missing >:( Got them fitted but still getting a clonking noise when I press foot brake. Any ideas what this is? All new brakes and one new caliper. Calliper was 2nd hand so could this be a problem? I doubt it but need to rule out the parts that I provided. Pretty sure it is down to workmanship considering he forgot the anti rattle springs.
Need to get to the bottom of the clonking noise which comes from the rear and sounds like the side that as the replacement calliper too.
Help please.
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Went to kwik fit today and both anti rattle springs were missing >:( Got them fitted but still getting a clonking noise when I press foot brake. Any ideas what this is? All new brakes and one new caliper. Calliper was 2nd hand so could this be a problem? I doubt it but need to rule out the parts that I provided. Pretty sure it is down to workmanship considering he forgot the anti rattle springs.
Need to get to the bottom of the clonking noise which comes from the rear and sounds like the side that as the replacement calliper too.
Help please.
Not your job .. take it back, and keep taking it back, until they do the job properly. Get trading Standards involved, or the AA if you are a member. You have paid to have a job done .. make them do it and stop running around after them !!
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I have just discovered that I have a completely shot n/s/f TRE. Did this produce a rumbling kind of sound?
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sounds like caliper is loose on mounting or pads are wrong and moving in the caliper. are you sure you got correct part.
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This is the parts that I got:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350286280459&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220309121382&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I have a 2000 2.5v6 saloon
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Wow, just wow!
Please do something about this garage, brakes are simple, so simple in fact you dont even have to be a mechanic to change them. just a kwik fit tyre monkey.
They are feeding you bs and it sounds like they honestly are making it up as they go along.
The parts you have bought look correct to me, I would contact trading standards.
9 hours to do brakes and an abs ecu? give me a break!
The bad thing about that is they sound like they were making out like they were doing you a favour only charging for 6
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Speak to Trading Standards. :y
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take it back to the original garage and ask what the hell did you do with the anti-rattle springs! :o :o :o
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Could the pins they talk of be the handbrake shoe pins, thus why they had to change wheel studs, thus why the clunk? Just a thought....
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Could the pins they talk of be the handbrake shoe pins, thus why they had to change wheel studs, thus why the clunk? Just a thought....
I think you might be right there, on my Merc if you fit the steel spare wheel you have to use the shorter wheel bolts supplied otherwise the extra length of the alloy wheel fixing bolt will wreck the handbrake mechanism.
Is it possible someone has been there before them and fitted an incorrect length wheel bolt to the rear :-?
I would check the length of all the wheel bolts just to be sure.
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Could the pins they talk of be the handbrake shoe pins, thus why they had to change wheel studs, thus why the clunk? Just a thought....
This is definitely the pins they are talking about.
I went back and said about the anti rattle springs being missing and got looked at blankly >:(
The mechanic sat in the car with me and heard the clunking when I touched the foot brake. He said that once he readjusts the handbrake shoes then that should stop. I questioned the fact that it happens on footbrake not handbrake lever and again a vacant look.
Was told that the omega is a bad design but good car :D That is the usual response from someone that is incompetent >:( It is booked to go back to them next Friday. So I will give them the chance.
As a point, after the anti rattle springs were fitted there was still a bit of play in the pads :question
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where are you based? If anyone of us is close to you, someone should take a look.
The messages you are getting from your mechanic seem to say that he really does not know anything and is fobbing you off. the footbrake and handbrake mechanism are totally seperate. The former being hydraulic, disc/pad, the latter cable, drum and shoe.
now for my theory, could it be that the replacement cailper is from a facelift with vented discs and you have pre facelift - non vented disc?
good luck