Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: burtsomega on 18 February 2011, 10:11:40
-
Hi all im new to this site & new to vauxhalls!
few weeks back i lost my dad & i thought it was a good idea to take on one of his cars which is a omega 2.0 CD auto on a S reg. its got a 2.0 eco tech engine in it with a "sealed gearbox".
ive done a little over 400 miles in the car & it is now coming up with a "gearbox fault" on the computer in the dash, when this first happend all the clocks/dials in the dash seem to lose power & the ABS light came on then went off & the airbag light came on & then went off....i pulled over to side of the road & poped it in to neutral & gave it a rev & it seemed to clear the clocks/dial problem (thought it might of just been a bit damp as it heavy liquid sunshine that day) but the gearbox fault was still on the screen.
it doesent seem to come up with the fault untill youve done a few miles . the lasttime i used it it came up with the fault it went into limp mode & seemed like it was pulling away in 3rd gear so i put it in to 1st gear then it started to pull away & went up through the box ok if driven manually but when i got it home on the drive the seemed to be making a slight funny noise but only does it when the fault message is on the screen...any help will be grateful thanx for your time Reg.
-
Sounds like gearbox going into limp mode. This can be result of a detected engine fault, so do a 'Paperclip Test' (see Maintenence Guides) to check engine hasn't detected anything.
Additionally, given the other glitch, get a voltmeter on battery and test battery and alternator as per Kevin Wood's guide in Maintenence Guides.
Post the results to this thread :y
-
Does the gearbox thud at all during changes? If so that will be your thrust washer that will need replacing.I had'gearbox fault' on my display and similar symptoms to what you are describing i.e. loss of power,having to manualy change gear etc. It was my gearbox oil that needed replacing in the end.
-
Forgot to say you will need to use gearbox oil equivalent to Dexron 3 rating in the Omega,just under nine litres iirc for a full box.
-
If it isnt connected to an engine fault, check the fluid level and then clean the selector switch, as per the guides. :y
-
thanx for the post's, going to have a look @ it 2morrow & ill let you know my finds. ;)
-
Stick your location in your profile .. you might be near someone with a suitable code reader ???
-
ok been outside having a fiddle with the car it seems to be a electrical fault, the battery was sat @ 11.32volts observably not enough to start the car so i put a power pack across & started & then put the meeter back across & you can watch the voltage drop from the battery! my dad had a new altinator on the car & the charging build had blown so the RAC guy by-passed the light in the dash? the ABS light was staying on then the airbag light started coming on & the computer said "automatic gearbox"?. im guessing there is a electrical fault in there somewhere but where the hell do i start?! :-[
-
...... im guessing there is a electrical fault in there somewhere but where the hell do i start?! :-[
A new/recon alternator by the sounds of things ;) ;) ;)
-
its got a new alternator on it...imwondering if its to do with the charging light that the RAC guy by passed? with the booster pack on it it runs like its ment to....& as soon as you switch of the engine the battery regains its charge.
-
never ignore the battery. can have you going round in circles if its faulty so get that tested first to illiminate it.
-
battery is only 8 weeks old lol, tho i think its a micky mouse one >:(
-
its got a new alternator on it...imwondering if its to do with the charging light that the RAC guy by passed? with the booster pack on it it runs like its ment to....& as soon as you switch of the engine the battery regains its charge.
I cannot imagine what kind of bodge has occurred there :-/
Older alternators (Lucas ACRs for example) needed the charge warning lamp to be in circuit with the field coils to work. In normal use the field current wasn't sufficient to light the lamp. If charging was marginal the regulator increased the field current to the point that the lamp glowed.
The Omega alternator has a more robust output for the warning light (the Carlton used to use it to operate a relay that inhibited the rear screen heater until the warning light went out). I suspect that 'bypassing the warning light' could blow the regulator in the alternator :(
-
What are your voltage readings at idle, 1500rpm and 3000rpm?
-
the voltage keeps dropping unless you are giving the engine revs, when the engine is @ revs it sits @ what ever it droped to, IE last time i held it on a rev the voltage sat @ 7.34 :-[
-
the voltage keeps dropping unless you are giving the engine revs, when the engine is @ revs it sits @ what ever it droped to, IE last time i held it on a rev the voltage sat @ 7.34 :-[
you need to have a read though this lot. ;)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1225724099
-
I had the gearbox warning light come on but on a 2.5 V6. and it would go into limp mode. restart it and it would reset for a while. It turned out to be the throttle position sensor and nothing to do with the gearbox.
-
Sounds to me like you need to sort the electrical supply issues first.
I would do the following:
Remove the bodge the RAC guy did. I can't imagine what he was thinking but there is no need to bodge the wiring in this way. Put it all back as standard and replace the light bulb in the dash if it's blown.
Remove the battery (taking care that you have the code for the audio system first) and fully charge it on a decent mains powered charger. Check that it sits at 12.5-12.8 volts once it's fully charged and has had a little time to settle.
Put it back in the car and go through my guide posted by AndyB to see if it's charging. If it's not I'd remove the alternator and get it checked by an auto electrician in case the RACs bodge has killed it.
If there is an alternator problem it is most likely just the regulator pack which can be replaced without scrapping the whole alternator.
While you're at it, check the leads from battery to starter, alternator, chassis and engine block are sound. The crimped connections on these thick wires can work loose and cause a voltage drop.
I suspect all of your issues with the gearbox, etc. have been due to low supply voltage to the relevant ECUs.
Kevin
-
ok i had the dash out lastnight & the alternator bulb had blown, so not the ideal thing but i swapped the build with the fuel warning light just to check if the light is going of, as a result the alternator light did go off for a few seconds but then came back on...& at rev the light does dim but does not go out, so im guessing its to do with the alternator,there does some how seem to be some charge getting back to the battery now! as for the RAC bodge im not sure where to look for it, going to have another look in a bit. If anyone can shine a light as to where i should start too look that will be a massive help! :P . im going to try the paper-clip test in a min & ill post the results up.
Thanx for all your help's!