Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: V6 CDX-er on 22 February 2011, 21:34:19
-
:(
Swapped the insurance over to the Omega today, and off I went to work.
Having previously (but briefly) had a 2.5 GLS Omega estate on demo, this 2.6 didn't feel anywhere near as quick as I remembered them being. Not that I was thrashing it, I hardly used any more than 1/4 throttle, but there just wasn't the urgancy there that I remembered there being.
25 miles later and the emission fault light starts flashing.
I did the old pedal / fault reading trick, and came up with the following codes;
"P0560 System Voltage High Input
P0560 System Voltage Low Input
P0560 System voltage malfunction"
"P0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit high input (Bank 1 or single sensor)
P0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit low input (Bank 1 or single sensor) "
"P1614 Wrong Transponder Key Immobiliser
P1614 Immobiliser Wrong Signal Received Immobiliser
P1614 Immobiliser NotProgrammed Immobiliser""
"P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected"
"P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected"
After leaving the car 10-15 minutes with the engine off, I re-started and this time the emissions light didn't flash but stayed on continually. I then drove very slowly and carefully the 5-6 miles back home.
Tickover was at about 600rpm, and it felt to me like it was running on four cylinders.
The car cannot be locked / unlocked by the remote as the battery is flat. When I do unlock the car by the key the hazard warning lights flash untill I start the engine.
So, do you chaps have any idea what exactly I should be looking for here? I've seen code 0560 in the last few weeks as I've been working on the car, but I suspected that that was down to a knackered battery, which today was changed for a new one. No usual signs of altinator failure, (ie; wipers on a go-slow, lights dimming, struggling to start, etc).
-
check kevin woods alternator/battery guide first
-
It dosent sound healthy to me :-?
-
check kevin woods alternator/battery guide first
:y
-
It dosent sound healthy to me :-?
Please man, don't say that! I've spent nearly as much in parts as I did do on the car.
I had the vehicle valeted earlier today, (inc jetwashed). I'm wondering if some water has got into the area of dis-pac where I slightly damaged the edging getting it off to change the plugs?
-
See kevs guide on testing battery/alternater. But yes probably due to flat battery issue.
Knock sensor, check the wire is not damaged or broken and that ist connected coreectly, cable runs down by alternater from cable tray accross the cam cover.
Imob, check the chp is seated correctly in the key.
The flashing indicaters on start up is the alarm activating, except its silent due to removed poweer sounder???... And is tripped, quite normally believe it or not, because the car has been unlocked with the key because the blipper battery is flat.
You have a missfir on cylinder 6. Pas side rear pot. Remove coil pac and check for damage, rust oil etc change the plugs while your there imo. If rust/water present check the windscreen seal to scuttle is seated correctly on the screen? Was it raining at the time?
-
It dosent sound healthy to me :-?
Please man, don't say that! I've spent nearly as much in parts as I did do on the car.
I had the vehicle valeted earlier today, (inc jetwashed). I'm wondering if some water has got into the area of dis-pac where I slightly damaged the edging getting it off to change the plugs?
See the tip on removing coil pacs in maintanance.
-
See kevs guide on testing battery/alternater. But yes probably due to flat battery issue.
Knock sensor, check the wire is not damaged or broken and that ist connected coreectly, cable runs down by alternater from cable tray accross the cam cover.
Imob, check the chp is seated correctly in the key.
The flashing indicaters on start up is the alarm activating, except its silent due to removed poweer sounder???... And is tripped, quite normally believe it or not, because the car has been unlocked with the key because the blipper battery is flat.
You have a missfir on cylinder 6. Pas side rear pot. Remove coil pac and check for damage, rust oil etc change the plugs while your there imo. If rust/water present check the windscreen seal to scuttle is seated correctly on the screen? Was it raining at the time?
*cough* you mean shagged horn *cough* ;)
-
See kevs guide on testing battery/alternater. But yes probably due to flat battery issue.
Knock sensor, check the wire is not damaged or broken and that ist connected coreectly, cable runs down by alternater from cable tray accross the cam cover.
Imob, check the chp is seated correctly in the key.
The flashing indicaters on start up is the alarm activating, except its silent due to removed poweer sounder???... And is tripped, quite normally believe it or not, because the car has been unlocked with the key because the blipper battery is flat.
You have a missfir on cylinder 6. Pas side rear pot. Remove coil pac and check for damage, rust oil etc change the plugs while your there imo. If rust/water present check the windscreen seal to scuttle is seated correctly on the screen? Was it raining at the time?
*cough* you mean shagged horn *cough* ;)
Ah yes, my horn was shagged as well, never heard it once during the life of the car. Not checked this car ("omega black")
-
Ah yes, my horn was shagged as well, never heard it once during the life of the car. Not checked this car ("omega black")
Common fault - both mine have suffered it.
-
The Boy & Chris, as always, thank you both very much.
So, this isn't sounding 'too bad' then?
As you know I've changed the cam cover gaskets, and as I'm quite OCD-ish I'm pretty certain that I haven't trapped any wires.
What I did do, on the passanger side, and at the rear most pot, was damage the black rubber shroud that covers the spark plug. This ended up being quite chewed up. (picture below);
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13080.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13081.jpg)
And the old plug from that pot looked worse than the others;
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13084.jpg)
So if I get the key programmed and replace the damaged shroud then I should be ok?
You guys are great, and I certainly owe a few of you a drink, (which I hope to buy you one day soon) :)
-
....
I had the vehicle valeted earlier today ....
..... and having doors open for hours won't have helped a struggling battery. :y
-
Some of those fault codes might be old - the no6 misfire and the transponder ones in particular
-
....
I had the vehicle valeted earlier today ....
..... and having doors open for hours won't have helped a struggling battery. :y
This is what I cant understand Andy :-?
I used a booster pack to start it at my house, then drove straight to Halfords for a battery (540amps, £54 with trade card).
I had the car valeted after having the new battery fitted, and not once today have I noticed any of the usual signs of a weak battery.
I haven't got a multimeter though, so I cant check it :(
-
Some of those fault codes might be old - the no6 misfire and the transponder ones in particular
It's definatly missing TB. Running on four cylinders I reckon.
Is it possible to clear the fault codes at home, so that only new or current ones show?
-
Some of those fault codes might be old - the no6 misfire and the transponder ones in particular
It's definatly missing TB. Running on four cylinders I reckon.
Is it possible to clear the fault codes at home, so that only new or current ones show?
-
Some of those fault codes might be old - the no6 misfire and the transponder ones in particular
It's definatly missing TB. Running on four cylinders I reckon.
Is it possible to clear the fault codes at home, so that only new or current ones show?
No
-
....
I had the vehicle valeted earlier today ....
..... and having doors open for hours won't have helped a struggling battery. :y
This is what I cant understand Andy :-?
I used a booster pack to start it at my house, then drove straight to Halfords for a battery (540amps, £54 with trade card).
I had the car valeted after having the new battery fitted, and not once today have I noticed any of the usual signs of a weak battery.
I haven't got a multimeter though, so I cant check it :(
So, it's got its new battery on & you still can't lock it via the fob? How about via the driver's door lock? :-/
-
Sadly i dont think the rubber boots are available for the v6 cp llike they are for the 4 pot. So new cp i guess? :'(
I have used a good smear of sylicon grease around the cp seal to help water proofing should water get in the engine bay, which it shouldnt.
Strongly sugest checking scuttle and windscreen seal is sound and seated correctly, possibly with a bead of sylicone sealent along the scuttle join with polen filter section, dealing with coil pac.
-
Some of those fault codes might be old - the no6 misfire and the transponder ones in particular
It's definatly missing TB. Running on four cylinders I reckon.
Is it possible to clear the fault codes at home, so that only new or current ones show?
No
Going by my poor memory of previous posts, i was working on the battery code as being historic?...?
Could that be the case?
-
....
I had the vehicle valeted earlier today ....
..... and having doors open for hours won't have helped a struggling battery. :y
This is what I cant understand Andy :-?
I used a booster pack to start it at my house, then drove straight to Halfords for a battery (540amps, £54 with trade card).
I had the car valeted after having the new battery fitted, and not once today have I noticed any of the usual signs of a weak battery.
I haven't got a multimeter though, so I cant check it :(
So, it's got its new battery on & you still can't lock it via the fob? How about via the driver's door lock? :-/
It's a new car battery that I got for £54 from Halfords Andy, not the battery for the remote.
I don't think even Halfords could get away with charging £54 for what is essentially a watch battery :D
-
Sadly i dont think the rubber boots are available for the v6 cp llike they are for the 4 pot. So new cp i guess? :'(
I think your right. I've tried a few places and no-where seems to stock them. Well, not unless you want a coil pack free of charge.
-
......
It's a new car battery that I got for £54 from Halfords Andy, not the battery for the remote.
I don't think even Halfords could get away with charging £54 for what is essentially a watch battery :D
I knew what you meant. ;) :y I was just trying to see when you were having locking problems, before or after your new car battery was fitted. so ....... does it al lock via the fob or door with your new battery fitted? ::) ;)
-
....
I had the vehicle valeted earlier today ....
..... and having doors open for hours won't have helped a struggling battery. :y
This is what I cant understand Andy :-?
I used a booster pack to start it at my house, then drove straight to Halfords for a battery (540amps, £54 with trade card).
I had the car valeted after having the new battery fitted, and not once today have I noticed any of the usual signs of a weak battery.
I haven't got a multimeter though, so I cant check it :(
So, it's got its new battery on & you still can't lock it via the fob? How about via the driver's door lock? :-/
Difficult to say Andy.
The car has been sat in my garage since mid October whilst I've been doing all the jobs to it. All this time it's been in my garage I haven't locked it.
All I can say is that I only noticed the hazard warning lights flashing (after unlocking the car) after I had had the new battery fitted.
Although TBH I wouldn't read too much into that bearing in mind what I have said above?
-
Does the little red light on the fob light up when you press the lock/unlock buttons?? If not and you have a new battery then the most likely situation is that the battery holder in the fob has snapped...easy enough to weld but you will often find its just held in place by a piece of folded paper...which of course can shift...
As the misfire is on no 6 which is the one with the knackered lead I would say change the lead, clean up the plug and see if that gets rid of the misfire...
If you can head over here I can stick the computer on it and reset old codes etc...
As for the chip/immobiliser, if you can start the car then the code is old...if it was current then it just wouldnt work!
-
Does the little red light on the fob light up when you press the lock/unlock buttons?? If not and you have a new battery then the most likely situation is that the battery holder in the fob has snapped...easy enough to weld but you will often find its just held in place by a piece of folded paper...which of course can shift...
As the misfire is on no 6 which is the one with the knackered lead I would say change the lead, clean up the plug and see if that gets rid of the misfire...
If you can head over here I can stick the computer on it and reset old codes etc...
As for the chip/immobiliser, if you can start the car then the code is old...if it was current then it just wouldnt work!
Thanks for the offer. i may take you up on it :y
The keyfob remains in-op as it was only the car battery that was changed.
Mines the later 2.6, so no leads as such, but the sleeve / shroud for pot 6 is quite damaged, and that (I think) is likely the root of the problem. Just looking after the little 'un (and trying to work) whilst the wife has nipped out for a couple of hours. After which I'll have the coil packs out.
If I was to run a bead ofsilicone sealant around the edge of the dis-pac, (where it got damaged removing it), I assume that that would be sufficient to keep it water tight? Would the silicone sealant cause any problems with the heat soak it will suffer?
-
Sorry to hear of your troubles and lets hope its something simple and you are roaring around soon :y
-
Does the little red light on the fob light up when you press the lock/unlock buttons?? If not and you have a new battery then the most likely situation is that the battery holder in the fob has snapped...easy enough to weld but you will often find its just held in place by a piece of folded paper...which of course can shift...
As the misfire is on no 6 which is the one with the knackered lead I would say change the lead, clean up the plug and see if that gets rid of the misfire...
If you can head over here I can stick the computer on it and reset old codes etc...
As for the chip/immobiliser, if you can start the car then the code is old...if it was current then it just wouldnt work!
Thanks for the offer. i may take you up on it :y
The keyfob remains in-op as it was only the car battery that was changed.
Mines the later 2.6, so no leads as such, but the sleeve / shroud for pot 6 is quite damaged, and that (I think) is likely the root of the problem. Just looking after the little 'un (and trying to work) whilst the wife has nipped out for a couple of hours. After which I'll have the coil packs out.
If I was to run a bead ofsilicone sealant around the edge of the dis-pac, (where it got damaged removing it), I assume that that would be sufficient to keep it water tight? Would the silicone sealant cause any problems with the heat soak it will suffer?
[/highlight]
No I don't think it would cause any problem & may cure any spark tracking temporarily allowing the plug to fire correctly, but the probable cause of water ingress to No.6 plug is a leaking scuttle joint imho & you should check the soundproofing material under the scuttle to see if it is/ has been, wet. You can fix this by running a good bead of silicone down the joints & seal around the holes for the wiper shafts. :y
-
Did you say you had it valeted?, if so did they jet wash under the bonnet? if so they could have gone mentle and filled every nock and cranny with water. Misfire could be the dis pack has failed due to water ingress.check the leads and replace if you suspect them, as they do not age well and together with a poss dousing with water could be the cause.
-
Did you say you had it valeted?, if so did they jet wash under the bonnet? if so they could have gone mentle and filled every nock and cranny with water. Misfire could be the dis pack has failed due to water ingress.check the leads and replace if you suspect them, as they do not age well and together with a poss dousing with water could be the cause.
I've yet to open the bonnet on it, (been a very busy day), but I don't think that a steam clean of the engine is part of the £15 valet that I had done. I cant be 100% sure though untill I open the bonnet as I left the car with them whilst I went off to pay some bills.
-
Does the little red light on the fob light up when you press the lock/unlock buttons?? If not and you have a new battery then the most likely situation is that the battery holder in the fob has snapped...easy enough to weld but you will often find its just held in place by a piece of folded paper...which of course can shift...
As the misfire is on no 6 which is the one with the knackered lead I would say change the lead, clean up the plug and see if that gets rid of the misfire...
If you can head over here I can stick the computer on it and reset old codes etc...
As for the chip/immobiliser, if you can start the car then the code is old...if it was current then it just wouldnt work!
Thanks for the offer. i may take you up on it :y
The keyfob remains in-op as it was only the car battery that was changed.
Mines the later 2.6, so no leads as such, but the sleeve / shroud for pot 6 is quite damaged, and that (I think) is likely the root of the problem. Just looking after the little 'un (and trying to work) whilst the wife has nipped out for a couple of hours. After which I'll have the coil packs out.
If I was to run a bead ofsilicone sealant around the edge of the dis-pac, (where it got damaged removing it), I assume that that would be sufficient to keep it water tight? Would the silicone sealant cause any problems with the heat soak it will suffer?
[/highlight]
No I don't think it would cause any problem & may cure any spark tracking temporarily allowing the plug to fire correctly, but the probable cause of water ingress to No.6 plug is a leaking scuttle joint imho & you should check the soundproofing material under the scuttle to see if it is/ has been, wet. You can fix this by running a good bead of silicone down the joints & seal around the holes for the wiper shafts. :y
I reckon that you are on to something here.
After having it valeted the inside of the car kept on steaming up every ten minutes or so, even though the interior mats had been fully dried. And yes, I have already cleared out both of my scuttle drains.
-
Ok, had the plenum and passanger side dis-pac off tonight. Everything seems to be in order? No swimming pools in the spark plug wells. No wet or damp around the spark plug shrouds. Plugs 4 & 6 both fine, dry and free from any signs of rust. Even the dis-pac edging and no;6 spark plug shroud aren't as badly damaged as I remember them being. Pics below;
plugs 4 & 6. no; 4 is on the left in both pictures.
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13219.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13218.jpg)
edging around dis-pac not too badly damaged, (although I cant remember the bolts being so rusty?)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13217.jpg)
spark plug wells dry. although I couldn't find the rubber 'O' ring in pot 6?
pot 4; (on left)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13221.jpg)
pot 6;
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13222.jpg)
And the dis-pac & shrouds. I couldn't un-plug the dis-pac for a clearer picture. Sorry.
The damaged shroud (pot 6) is the one on the far right.
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn85/TVRMoneypit/SkodaFelicia13220.jpg)
The scuttle drain (passenger side), is clear. Pollen filter dry, but the rubber that runs along the top edge of the bulkhead, although in position, can easily be pulled off.
Any further suggestions please chaps?
Thanks :)
-
I also wanted to add that during the vehicle being valeted, the engine wasn't steam cleaned.
-
Hi there
Just a thought I know the guys round my way that do valleting tend to use high pressure washers and aim them at the sump and up into the engine bay from wheel arches etc may be its water ingres from this way. Just a thought tho!!
Must say your other post has been really fantastic and I'll be following it very closeley soon.
Regards
Griffin