Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: SR-71 Blackbird on 08 March 2011, 22:19:12
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Hi guys, i think my egr valve is sticking on my TD. Ive taken it off and cleaned it in the past but when it came to screw it back in again i think i over tightened the screws and stripped the threads, does anyone have a clean working valve for sale or any advise on how to not make the same mistake in the future. Also does anyone have some nice clear photos of the egr and cleaning or it working etc, as in does the plunger move and if so how as i cant get mine to move
thanks
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I bought one of these and did away with it ;)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E34-E36-E39-VAUXHALL-EGR-Diesel-Bypass-Valve-kit-/230592270356?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b05ed014
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so this replaces the valve and then pipe from the exhaust area feeds into it but is blocked yes? also how does this effect your emissions at mot time?
thanks
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so this replaces the valve and then pipe from the exhaust area feeds into it but is blocked yes? also how does this effect your emissions at mot time?
thanks
The MOT on a diesel is just a visual smoke test ;)
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ok so does the pipe from the exhaust is screwed into the plate with no where for the gases to go, and then the larger opening allows the air from the intercooler to go straight through allowing more power and less smoke, better fuel economy?
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Thats it in a nut shell ;)
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Thats it in a nut shell ;)
you noticed a significant drop in mpg Pete? i did when mine was blanked for 6k, thats why i unblanked it? went from 40 odd to around 35ish
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Thats it in a nut shell ;)
you noticed a significant drop in mpg Pete? i did when mine was blanked for 6k, thats why i unblanked it? went from 40 odd to around 35ish
I can't say that I have G, the old girl has been brilliant on fuel ;)
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Thats it in a nut shell ;)
you noticed a significant drop in mpg Pete? i did when mine was blanked for 6k, thats why i unblanked it? went from 40 odd to around 35ish
Are you doing short trips?
The EGR on modern diesels helps get the engine upto temp a bit quicker
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so this replaces the valve and then pipe from the exhaust area feeds into it but is blocked yes? also how does this effect your emissions at mot time?
thanks
The MOT on a diesel is just a visual smoke test ;)
:-? Not at my local MOT centre.
A reading is taken by inserting a sensor into the tail pipe and the printed result is attached to the pass/fail certificate.
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so this replaces the valve and then pipe from the exhaust area feeds into it but is blocked yes? also how does this effect your emissions at mot time?
thanks
The MOT on a diesel is just a visual smoke test ;)
:-? Not at my local MOT centre.
A reading is taken by inserting a sensor into the tail pipe and the printed result is attached to the pass/fail certificate.
Same here too! :-?
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so this replaces the valve and then pipe from the exhaust area feeds into it but is blocked yes? also how does this effect your emissions at mot time?
thanks
The MOT on a diesel is just a visual smoke test ;)
:-? Not at my local MOT centre.
A reading is taken by inserting a sensor into the tail pipe and the printed result is attached to the pass/fail certificate.
Same here too! :-?
and same for me too. The machine tells the tester when to rev & for how long and when the emissions test is complete.
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Visual checking long since abandoned.... replaced by :
Metered Smoke Test (Diesel)
The metered smoke test has been conducted in
EU countries for many years. During this test, a
calibrated smoke meter is used to assess the
density of the smoke from compression ignition
(diesel) engined vehicles.
The engine will be accelerated up to governed
speed and the smoke density measured.
Engines that emit very little smoke and achieve
a meter reading of 1.5m-1 or less will pass the
test after the first acceleration. However, if the
test is not passed on the first acceleration a
further two accelerations will be carried out.
The average of the three acceleration readings
will be calculated and if the reading is at or
below 2.5m-1 for non-turbocharged engines
or 3.0m-1 for turbocharged engines, the
vehicle will pass this element of the test.
However, if the average is higher, a further
acceleration will be carried out, and the average
of the last three readings will be calculated. This
will continue up to a maximum of six
accelerations. If the average of the fourth, fifth
and sixth accelerations is higher than the
appropriate level, the vehicle will not pass the
test.
In addition, vehicles may be refused a
certificate if the exhaust emits excessive smoke
or vapour, to an extent likely to obscure vision.
A metered smoke test will not be carried out if:
[ch61623][ch61472] The exhaust tail pipe is damaged or an
accessory is fitted which prevents
insertion of the smoke meter probe.
[ch61623][ch61472] The exhaust system is extensively
fractured or holed.
[ch61623][ch61472] There are obvious signs of an engine
defect such as an unusual noise or
emission of excessive smoke.
[ch61623][ch61472] There is an insufficient or excessive
amount of oil in the engine or, low
engine oil pressure, which could cause
engine damage if the engine is
accelerated.
[ch61623][ch61472] There are obvious signs that the
governors have been tampered with or
are not operating.
[ch61623][ch61472] The vehicle owner / presenter cannot
confirm that the vehicle has been
properly maintained, the camshaft drive
belt has been replaced at the
recommended intervals and the engine
is in a suitable condition for testing.
In the above circumstances where a metered
smoke test is not carried out, the vehicle will fail
the test.
Note: It is important that vehicles are
properly maintained prior to testing
(including changing of the camshaft drive
belts in accordance with the manufacturer’s
recommendation) and presented for test at
normal working temperature. This may
require the engine to be kept running prior
to the start of the test.
:)
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Hello just been looking at the link Elite Pete put on regarding a blanking kit. Reading down the blurb on it, the issue of exhaust soot and oil is raised suggesting that the inlet manifold will become so restricted that it strangles airflow. has anyone taken the inlet mainfold off a2.5TD and discovered this is true. I'm wondering if using a long brush, the type you clean bottles with, would get the muck (if present) off the inlets to each cylinders. Thus avoiding the removal of the inlet manifold, which if I do it is bound to turn into a right pain. Does this kit really improve performance without heavier fuel use. My old tractor barely manages 32 on on long run and barely 20 round town. A mate of mine has a 3.2 elite estate and over 4K miles at an average speed of 33mph it shows 25 to gallon!! And petrol is cheaper than diesel too. But he won't sell it
martinH