Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: erubus on 17 April 2011, 10:16:09
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Hi there guys. I managed to get my omega through it's MOT yesterday. Everything went well (I was actually the assistant as they were short handed) but just before the brake test and emissions, the car started to smoke quite badly. the tester gave it a few revs and the whole garage filled with choking blue smoke. came to the emissions, and it was smoking really badly and the CO levels were through the roof (2.88) a ouple of seconds on the rev limiter did the trick though and it passed quite respectably.
About thirty seconds after the test was finished, the engine just died and refused to start again. eventually, after a jump start it went on again, but with the EML. Now given that the autobox wasn't working (see previous thread) I thought perhaps the cam sensor was at fault after all. so drove away to get one, fitted it and all seemed well, no engine light, but still no gearbox.
Same symptoms with g/box. stayed in first far too long, then banged straight into limp mode, although this time at least i got a ault message on the MID. decided to live with it and started to drive home, then the engine died again and refused to start. eventually got it going with jump leads and a new battery, but lots of banging screeching and popping. got to my dads house, cut out wouldn't start.
when we were poking around, if we moved the crank sensor wire, what i think was the fuel pump relays, were clicking. i haven't got fault codes out yet (can't find the how to and can't remember the pin numbers) but could the crank sensor affect the gearbox operation as well? gearbox still selects by the lever byu the way.
any ideas?
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got codes 0335, 0340 and 1502. that's cam sensor and crank sensor i think but no idea what 1502 would be. if the crank sensor was faulty and therefore giving a different signal to the (brand new OEM fitted yesterday) cam sensor, would this cause the gearbox fault, even though the cam sensor clearly isn't faulty?
meant to say, codes were cleared before i eventually managed to get on my way home, so these are new codes
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blue smoke implies oil.
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that's what i was thinking prior to the test, but my tester reckoned it was a build up of crap in the cat from it running so badly for so long while trying to fix it. after a few seconds on the rev limiter it was fine though, there was some amount of crap blown out the exhaust, and no smoke since, plus a pretty respectable emissions pass.
the current problems are definately sensor related, and probably the crank sensor i think, most likely just the wire itself given that moving it caused the FPR's to click and cut the engine whilst running (forgot to add that in first post).
I have a spare crank sensor on the old engine which I'm fairly surely was replaced by the PO trying to get the engine runnig, so gonna fit that at some point and see if it helps.
anyone know what the 1502 fault is?
edit, found it: immobiliser, no signal. the plot thickens.
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I don't think I would want to bounce my car off the rev limiter, especially after it had just filled a garage with blue smoke...
...then the engine died again and refused to start. eventually got it going with jump leads and a new battery, but lots of banging screeching and popping. got to my dads house, cut out wouldn't start.
When you say 'screeching' do you mean a grinding, grating metallic sort of noise?
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No nothing like that. The engine is mechanically fine. More backfiring, popping in the inlet manifold and such.
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Cranks sensor is worth a try, and take it from there, IMHO.
Kevin
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Crank sensor can cause all sorts of issues on these and can even cause the cam sensor fault code to be raised.
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Had a go at taking the crank sensor off today to swap it with tge spare one and failed miserably. I thought it was awkward on the cav but i need smaller hands and a couple more wrists and eyes on my finger tips with this one. Then it started raining and i went in defeated! I did notice that if i pulled the cam sensor plug out tge engine stopped immediately, and if i pulled tge crank plug out it ran exactly the same, iirc it should run on one if one fails it should still run on the other so that suggests to me that the crank sensor is definately at fault. Any thoughts?
Cheers gill
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Had a go at taking the crank sensor off today to swap it with tge spare one and failed miserably. I thought it was awkward on the cav but i need smaller hands and a couple more wrists and eyes on my finger tips with this one. Then it started raining and i went in defeated! I did notice that if i pulled the cam sensor plug out tge engine stopped immediately, and if i pulled tge crank plug out it ran exactly the same, iirc it should run on one if one fails it should still run on the other so that suggests to me that the crank sensor is definately at fault. Any thoughts?
Cheers gill
IIRC the 4 pots will run on one sensor. Ordinarily the cam sensor will only be used immediately after the engine starts turning to determine the phase of the cam, and not thereafter. If it stops the engine, it looks like it's fallen back to using the cam sensor as the main reference which is backed up by the 335 code.
Kevin
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Does that suggest crank sensor failure like i suspected? Had a couple of drinks now so getting hard to understand haha
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Does that suggest crank sensor failure like i suspected? Had a couple of drinks now so getting hard to understand haha
My Mistake. ::)
Yes, crank sensor. :y
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I'm still struggling to get the damn crank sensor out. I've removed the pas reservoir and the AIR thing and pulled out the dipstick tube for more access but don't see how ill get it without removing either the exhaust or the whole casting that holds the air con and pas pumps. I could probably get the bolt out if i had a uj on my 1/4" ratchet but i dont.
On the plus side with everything taken apart its obvious that the crank sensirs definately buggered because the insulation at tge bottom is all cracked with bare wire showing, so definately needing replaced.