Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: mdbs on 17 April 2011, 14:50:41
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New Member. So Hi everyone.
I dont drive an Omega but I am thinking of putting a V6 from an Omega in an MX5 I have lying about.
Reasons for registering, I might need some help down the line with odd details but my first question ( I know its probably the wrong place) does a manual gearbox from a 2.5 V6 fit a 3.2 V6? And are there any clutch or flywheel issues. Thanks
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will fit with out of any problems
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IIRC the 2.5 uses the R25 box and the 3.2 uses the stronger R28 gearbox.
My guess is that an MX5 won't weigh enough to stress either gearbox even if you do use an R25 with a 3.2.
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Thanks, that was my thoughts, the MX5 is less than a ton.
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I would personally thing that the much increased torque from the 3.2 would rip an auto box apart but I dont think it would have the same issues with the manual box...they seem to cope a lot better :y Should be fine...
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I would personally thing that the much increased torque from the 3.2 would rip an auto box apart but I dont think it would have the same issues with the manual box...they seem to cope a lot better :y Should be fine...
IIRC anything bigger than the 2.5v6 uses the stronger ar35 autobox.
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I am not going to use an auto, its not right for an MX5 as its a sports car, well sort of anyway.
I am best bid on an Omega MV6 auto, 3.2, but this morning I am not sure I have bought it as the site has not confirmed the sale. We will see later.
This MV6 is an auto so I will sell the auto and buy a manual. But there seems to be lots more 2.5 boxes around. So if I cant find a bigger box I will try a r25.
Another consideration apart from the vehicles weight is the traction available, as I will probably only use 195 maybe 205 tyres as I will not want to modify the arches, the tyres will let go fairly quickly so letting the drive train have a slightly easier time.
Some forums say an MX5 diff will only cope with about 200bhp, so I thinkl I will keep the Omega diff in case I need to use it. Have no idea on the ratio though. I dont need the car to do more than about 135- 140 mph its the fun factor up to those speeds I am looking for. But as I will use 15" wheels that will lower the final drive ratio.
To avoid using a dual mas flywheel is there a standard Vauxhall one I can use?
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Either manual box will be fine, especially in an MX5.
What you might want to bear in mind is that the 3.2 uses an electronic drive-by-wire throttle whereas the 3.0 has a conventional cable throttle.
If you're thinking of using the Omega engine management that might be a consideration. if not, I'm sure the manual throttle body from the earlier V6 could be fitted with no problems.
Sounds like a nice project. Keep us updated on progress. :y
Kevin
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Never heard of any issues with an Omega DMF.
Something to do with a decent amount of cylinders
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Never heard of any issues with an Omega DMF.
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Local Vauxhall parts manager said the Police used to get through DMFs in Omegas for fun, probably due to it not being their car & driving like they stole it - £1000 or so a go.
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Never heard of any issues with an Omega DMF.
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Local Vauxhall parts manager said the Police used to get through DMFs in Omegas for fun, probably due to it not being their car & driving like they stole it - £1000 or so a go.
I think if I were doing a conversion like this I'd ditch it for a conventional, lighter, flywheel, all the same.
Kevin
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With regard to the 3.2, that car fell through, but I have bought a 3.0 off Ebay so heres hoping etc. And its a manual.
Might be pleased the 3.2 fell through as I am not into electronics so thanks for the heads up.
Does anyone have any ideas on the wiring needed to make the 3.0 V6 run? As I will have the whole car I will have access to all parts.
I have been told DMF were fitted to Omagas, I am not a fan, they seem pointless to me. I had a single mass fitted to my wifes TDCi Mondeo and I cant notice any difference.
Also they are heavier I think. I do fancy a lighter one but not sure I can warrant £250 odd for a lightened one.
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Might be pleased the 3.2 fell through as I am not into electronics so thanks for the heads up.
Yes, I think you'll have an easier time getting the 3.0 to run due to the simpler engine management.
Does anyone have any ideas on the wiring needed to make the 3.0 V6 run? As I will have the whole car I will have access to all parts.
You will need the engine ECU, Immobiliser transponder from the ignition keys and the immobiliser module that sits on the ignition lock barrel. These three items are coded together so you need them as a set.
Obviously, the whole engine loom and all ancillaries on it - engine sensors and actuators, Lambda sensors, main and fuel pump relay.
You might as well ditch the whole secondary air injection system although you'll need to load the output of the ECU that feeds the solenoid to stop the ECU complaining.
I have a feeling there's a wire that codes the ECU for auto/manual transmission that you need to take care of. Air copnditioning feed for the clutch relay passes through the engine ECU. Not sure if it gets upset if this is not present. (please don't tell me you're fitting air con to an MX 5 ;)). On that ECU I don't think there's much else that will cause a problem as long as everything else is wired back up as it was.
Also they are heavier I think. I do fancy a lighter one but not sure I can warrant £250 odd for a lightened one.
I'm not aware of specifics, but I'm sure there will be a combination of off-the-shelf bits that will replace with a solid flywheel without going down the route of a "performance" (read: expensive) aftermarket flywheel.
Kevin
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Thanks Kevin,
some of what you write seems Dutch to me but I hope it will become more plain as I get into it. Can you point me to a wiring diagram?
TBH the wiring was always going to be my weak point. My last conversion was a good old simple Yank V8 with a coil.
And no, no A/C. It does not even have PAS, yet. I will fit a power rack though. No central locking or elec windows either.
Push comes to shove I will MegaSquirt it I think, but I am trying to do it on the cheap. Not sure its realistic but I told my wife about £1000. running. We shall see. I get alot of satisfaction in doing things myself, except wiring lol.
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Thanks Kevin,
some of what you write seems Dutch to me but I hope it will become more plain as I get into it. Can you point me to a wiring diagram?
The one in the back of the Haynes manual is about as good as they get for that system. Can often pick manuals up on Ebay for a fiver or less. :y
Push comes to shove I will MegaSquirt it I think, but I am trying to do it on the cheap. Not sure its realistic but I told my wife about £1000. running. We shall see. I get alot of satisfaction in doing things myself, except wiring lol.
Ahh.. I have trodden that path a few times too. I have been running a Megasquirt on my Westfield for about 7 years and used to write code for it.
I reckon you should be able to get the stock system working without too much difficulty, though. Megasquirt will come into its' own if you want to tune the engine, of course.
Kevin
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I have been told DMF were fitted to Omagas, I am not a fan, they seem pointless to me. I had a single mass fitted to my wifes TDCi Mondeo and I cant notice any difference.
Also they are heavier I think. I do fancy a lighter one but not sure I can warrant £250 odd for a lightened one.
You will aslo have to factor in the price of a clutch plate with a sprung hub, the Omegas don`t have these as the driveline damping is taken care of by the DMF.
I think TTV (http://www.ttvracing.com/) have made one for an Omega before so suit the standard pressure plate and then you could use the friction disc from a 20LET, it`s slightly smaller in diameter but would easily cope with the torque of the 3.0l.
I had one from them for my Senator and there`s a few people on the ABS forum using them in Monza`s.
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OK, thanks. I will not be tuning the engine though. AS I have not done anything like this for a while I am sort of using it to get back up to speed.
My next project, it was due to be this one but the MX turned up, is a Se7en type with a BMW 4.0 V8 manual.
But I am not holding my breath.
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There are loads of manuals on Ebay, thanks. Its agood idea anyway to have some reference for the engine/box etc.
Am I correct that the MV6 has an LSD? Not sure if the MX diff will cope so might keep the Omega diff handy.
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also, do remember that whatever you transplant into an MX-5 shell, you must, must, must, must, must re-use the torque arm that connects the diff to the gearbox. The shell isn't designed to take torque reaction and som will end up corkscrew-shaped if you don't tie the two together.
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I wondered why they did it that way, thats a good bit of info, and to be honest I was going to re use it anyway thinking it wasnt there for nothing.
Thanks