Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: amba on 30 April 2011, 19:53:15
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I intend replacing, my blowing,drivers side exhaust manifold gasket in the next week or so and have ordered all the necessary bits from local VX stealers including new studs and nuts.
In reallity what is the likelyhood of any of the existing studs shearing when removing them ,as understand that the nut tends to bring the entire stud out with it when undone...is this the majorities experience who have done this job ?
What is the best way to refit new studs...with just 2 nuts and then remove them or with a purpose designed stud socket removal/insertion tool.
Finally is it better to fit the new studs with copperslip or should these just go in dry and as tight as reasonable,allowing the new nut to just torque up on them.
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Sometimes the studs can snap but not that often. Best way to insert the new studs is to clean the threads inside the head by using a tap with a 1.25 tap, this will clean the threads up nicely and you can put the new studs in by hand. I have just replaced my manifolds with 3.2 manifolds, but brfore I put the new studs in I cleaned the threads up first by using a tap, new studs went in nice and easy. With the new nuts as you tighten them up the studs go in just a bit further. Don't forget to torque the nuts up to 25nm, I tightened mine up to approx 26nm and thats just right. And don't forget to remove the transfer pipe as well otherwise you can't get to the studs
HTH
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What is the best way to refit new studs...with just 2 nuts and then remove them or .. ....
That's how I'd re-fit new studs, the stud needs to tighten up on the centre waist/shoulder. IMO VX1's method will likely have the studs come out with the nut next time you put a spanner anywhere near them. ;)
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I used the two nut method and some studs were quite difficult to get in fully (I didn't tap the holes).
Pretty much every stud came out attached to the rusted lump of a nut. The rear studs can fail all on their own, one of mine was just the tip of a stud. I think it had rusted then sheared one day when the engine was very hot. To get that out I had to get my brother to weld a nut on to the remainder of the stud... I suspect I could have got a gas tight seal with one stud missing though. It was only blowing a tiny bit and that was with a rotten old paper type gasket with a hole in it.
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When I did mine, all studs came out easily, most attached to nuts. I used all new studs and nuts with copper washers. I put the studs in by hand, they went in easily, about a quarter turn from the threadless bit in the middle, but managed to sort this when I put the nuts on. None sheared
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I've gotta change the gasket on mine soon :(, did you notice a mph hit as blowing got worse?
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I hoped fixing mine would improve the MPG but it didn't make a noticable difference - my blow was only minor though.
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Mine is just very clattery on a cold start.
Had a very trusted local garage do the n/s last year and found the old gasket was just the thin paper type which wouldn,t seal an envelope down.
As the o/s does seem to be the easier of the 2 sides decided to have a go myself as money a bit tight this year and fancy doing it anyway just to say I did.
Because both sides were originally blowing I haven,t noticed much difference in fuel usage or sound so looking forward to hearing how quite the old girl will be with them both done.
Thanks for the info re the studs...1 shearing off is my worst nightmare as no welding facilities and don,t fancy the drill method...fingers crosssed they will all come out in 1 peice.
Is it wise to put copperslip on the new studs when refitting ?
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Sometimes the studs can snap but not that often. Best way to insert the new studs is to clean the threads inside the head by using a tap with a 1.25 tap, this will clean the threads up nicely and you can put the new studs in by hand. I have just replaced my manifolds with 3.2 manifolds, but brfore I put the new studs in I cleaned the threads up first by using a tap, new studs went in nice and easy. With the new nuts as you tighten them up the studs go in just a bit further. Don't forget to torque the nuts up to 25nm, I tightened mine up to approx 26nm and thats just right. And don't forget to remove the transfer pipe as well otherwise you can't get to the studsHTH
Please clarify, what is the transfer pipe? Got to do the drivers manifold on my old 2.5 soon. :y
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I intend replacing, my blowing,drivers side exhaust manifold gasket in the next week or so and have ordered all the necessary bits from local VX stealers including new studs and nuts.In reallity what is the likelyhood of any of the existing studs shearing when removing them ,as understand that the nut tends to bring the entire stud out with it when undone...is this the majorities experience who have done this job ?
What is the best way to refit new studs...with just 2 nuts and then remove them or with a purpose designed stud socket removal/insertion tool.
What parts do you need? Gasket and new studs and nuts, anything else required? :y
Finally is it better to fit the new studs with copperslip or should these just go in dry and as tight as reasonable,allowing the new nut to just torque up on them.
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Transfer pipe is the coolant transfer pipe. A shiny pipe about 2" in diameter that runs from front to back. You'll know it when u see it you can't miss it. It bends round to the back of the engine 180 degrees. You just need to wangle it round to get it out, once the bolts are out of course
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Transfer pipe is the coolant transfer pipe. A shiny pipe about 2" in diameter that runs from front to back. You'll know it when u see it you can't miss it. It bends round to the back of the engine 180 degrees. You just need to wangle it round to get it out, once the bolts are out of course
Thanks, I thought it was this one. Looks a pig to get access to the back of the engine. :(
Am I right in thinking that most of the work on getting the manifold off is best done from underneath the car? :y
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Don't forget to get a new rubber seal - the one that goes between the engine block and the transfer pipe! :y
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From what I understand the only part of the work requiring access from underneath is the removal of the cat,which should be completly removed from the manifold end and the center section.
Plenum and inlet manifold should be removed along with the coolant reservoir,and has been suggested the entire pipework from the heater to the HBV as access to the rear of the engine and the join of the coolant transfer pipe is quite tight.New rubber seal should be use when refitting the coolant pipe along with those for the secondary air injection to manifold.
Naturally a multi layered metal exhaust manifold gasket along with new studs and copper nuts.
Think I have detailed all required.
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Thanks for the info, I will add it to my very long 'to do' list :o