Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Field Marshal Dr. Opti on 02 June 2011, 20:01:39
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I've just ordered a set of rear brake pads for my MV6 from Ebay (£15).....Quick Fit wanted £89 before they would let their teenage neanderthal knuckle dragger loose on my car.... :-/ :-/
When I remove the old pads (almost down to the metal) will I be able to force the pistons back in order to fit the new much thicker pads?.
I really do not wish to go anywhere near the bleed nipple. The last time I put a spanner on one .......it snapped .....DOH!!!... :-/ :-/
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if you dont release the nipple, you risk inverting the master cylinder....
not recommended.
at the very least take the lid of the fluid resivoir.
you should be able to push the pistons back with leverage, or water pump pliers, but it is best to get rid of the old crappy fluid by opening that nipple.
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if you dont release the nipple, you risk inverting the master cylinder....
not recommended.
at the very least take the lid of the fluid resivoir.
you should be able to push the pistons back with leverage, or water pump pliers, but it is best to get rid of the old crappy fluid by opening that nipple.
If it snaps you'll be to blame Mr JB....it will be all your fault.. ::) ::) :P
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... The last time I put a spanner on one .......it snapped .....DOH!!!... :-/ :-/
That's what happened at the back of my Astra. :(
Just gently lever the pistons back with a big screwdriver using the old pads to push against the piston. As long as you do it nice & gently you'll have no problems. Scrape clean the metal to metal contact areas of the pad to the caliper & add a wipe of copperslip.
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I have a tool for pushing back the pistons and it cost me a few quid, BUT, i use other tools aswell and one of the best is a 4" G clamp done up very slow possitive pressure but take the cap off the top of the master cylinder first and use a rag and plastic around top if you have not removed any fluid first, and as said you do need to change fluid. The nipple will come undone just take your time. :y
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... The last time I put a spanner on one .......it snapped .....DOH!!!... :-/ :-/
That's what happened at the back of my Astra. :(
...and me on the rear passenger side of my old Vectra, managed to drill it out and fit a slightly larger one!
I've just done the rear pads on my new Vectra, this time I left the bleed nipple alone! Could do with a fluid change though, could be fun when I do get round to it...
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...and me on the rear passenger side of my old Vectra,....
Fortunately for my wallet, my Astra has drums at the back, so a new slave cylinder wasn't too expensive. :y
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Ideally, open bleed nipple, but risk assess it once you've seen how bad it is. Ultimately, at some point, it has to be opened to bleed the fluid every 2 years ;)
GM pads were cheaper as well ;D
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Where abouts are you Opti???
For future reference Millfield Auto's in Peterborough pads cost me just under £11 last month (identical brand to the previous pads on fitted prior to me having the car 4 years ago)...
I felt equally concerned about the bleed nipple when I had to undo mine, I used another spanner to tap it with to loosen it... I had no option as I had the inside piston siezed on both calipers...
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Get the nipple sorted. Best in the long term.
or a better spanner!
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Good dose of "plus-gas" for 24 hours before trying to open the bleed nipple works wonders .. :)
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Good dose of "plus-gas" for 24 hours before trying to open the bleed nipple works wonders .. :)
I agree had the same prob on mine left it overnight then bang next day opened dead easy after that little bleed the brakes felt a hell of a lot better. After youve freed them off i sugest a light smear of grease over the nipple (oo er missis) then its nice and rust free for next time :y
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When you do brakes always take the brake fluid resevior cap off as it can reverse the seals in the master cylinder (never good) on fronts what you need in a set of swan neck or water pump grips, as for the rear on some cars they have to be wound back in, piston wind back tools are only about £15 for a half decent one. just remember if you undo the bleed nipples to bleed all the brakes once its finished, starting with the rear one oposite side from the master cylinder first then the other rear and then the front oposite the master cylinder follwed by the last remaining one,
Sorry to all those who know how to carry this out(not trying to teach people to suck eggs) but hopefuly stop people who havent done it before from having a possible accident due to unsafe brakes.
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I didn`t think the omega rears needed to be wound in isn`t that normally with cars with the handbrake built into the rear calipers
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When you do brakes always take the brake fluid resevior cap off as it can reverse the seals in the master cylinder (never good) on fronts what you need in a set of swan neck or water pump grips, as for the rear on some cars they have to be wound back in, piston wind back tools are only about £15 for a half decent one. just remember if you undo the bleed nipples to bleed all the brakes once its finished, starting with the rear one oposite side from the master cylinder first then the other rear and then the front oposite the master cylinder follwed by the last remaining one,
Sorry to all those who know how to carry this out(not trying to teach people to suck eggs) but hopefuly stop people who havent done it before from having a possible accident due to unsafe brakes.
No winding in tool required for either front or rears on an Omega.
For what ever reason, the bleeding sequence on an Omega is different depending on the year. ;)
up to 98 - 3 channel system
front nearside
front off side
rear near side
rear off side
after 98 - 4 channel system
rear near side
front off side
rear off side
front near side
all according to Mr Haynes & not really too sure what difference it would make in practice. :-/
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That is correct the wind back ones are for the hand brake built into the calipper .
The reason for the bleed sequence is to get all the air out and stopping the pedal from feeling spongey
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The reason for the bleed sequence is to get all the air out and stopping the pedal from feeling spongey
You don't say! ;) ;) ;)
But the sequence you gave would have been the sequence I'd have used if I hadn't read a Haynes manual. What I meant was, I doubt that in the real world if the sequences that Haynes quote would make that much difference ie older car sequence or newer car sequence, neither of which were as you you suggested. :y :y
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When you do brakes always take the brake fluid resevior cap off as it can reverse the seals in the master cylinder (never good) on fronts what you need in a set of swan neck or water pump grips, as for the rear on some cars they have to be wound back in, piston wind back tools are only about £15 for a half decent one. just remember if you undo the bleed nipples to bleed all the brakes once its finished, starting with the rear one oposite side from the master cylinder first then the other rear and then the front oposite the master cylinder follwed by the last remaining one,
Sorry to all those who know how to carry this out(not trying to teach people to suck eggs) but hopefuly stop people who havent done it before from having a possible accident due to unsafe brakes.
No winding in tool required for either front or rears on an Omega.
For what ever reason, the bleeding sequence on an Omega is different depending on the year. ;)
up to 98 - 3 channel system
front nearside
front off side
rear near side
rear off side
after 98 - 4 channel system
rear near side
front off side
rear off side
front near side
all according to Mr Haynes & not really too sure what difference it would make in practice. :-/
My understanding is that the last one to be done is the one nearest the master cylinder, with the first the furthest away. In between is a best guess as to pipe length, longest first, shortest last....
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just to ask a silly question when you release say just one nipple you don't need to re-bleed all the brakes do you? i always imagined just the one you released would need re-bleeding?
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..... when you release say just one nipple you don't need to re-bleed all the brakes do you?
no
i always imagined just the one you released would need re-bleeding?
correct. :y
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just to ask a silly question when you release say just one nipple you don't need to re-bleed all the brakes do you? i always imagined just the one you released would need re-bleeding?
True, but, as a belt and braces, better once than several time type person, I generally bleed the lot. Does not take too long and you know that the fluid is brand new and not subject to a flush in a few months... :y
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....I generally bleed the lot. Does not take too long ....
That's what I was doing when I sheared the nipple in the rear slave cylinder. It took another couple of hours after I'd driven miles to the nearest dealer that stocked it.
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I think it changed (bleed sequence) when the ABS changed to fully independent.
In reality, whilst it makes sense to do longest first, as long as no air gets in, I suspect it doesn't matter...
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I usually figure that it's time to do a (partial, at least) fluid change whenever the brakes need attention, so I'll always open the bleed nipple, let the old fluid out while winding back the pistons, then suck out all the old fluid in the reservoir, replace with fresh and bleed a little through whatever end of the system I'm working on.
Opening the bleed nipples at least every 2 years is enough to ensure they don't sieze, IME. As you sow, so shall ye reap. ;)
.. and whilst it can be done without a spreader tool, it's much easier with one, and it ensures the pistons are pushed back true. For the cost, it's a no-brainer IMHO.