Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: ndmv6 on 12 September 2011, 20:01:45
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good evening,i own a 2.2 petrol omega auto,and just recently have experienced the dreaded emissions light coming on whilst driving..this showed as code p0130,the definitions are as follows...
02 sensor circuit,high voltage,bank1,sensor1
02 sensor circuit voltage low
02 sensor 1 open
02 sensor 1 incorrect signal.
i took this as this being the downpipe sensor,so ordered a new one,part number 9202577.
fitted that,now im getting the code p0135,definitions
same as above,
i have contacted the vauxhall dealer where the new lambda sensor came from,saying it was faulty,but according to them,sensor one is after the cat,sensor 2 is on the exhaust downpipe,this numbering only applied to the omega..is this true,as now im totally baffled as to which sensor is faulty..
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found info below here http://www.permoveo.ltd.uk/TechnicalResources.aspx
hope this helps
Generic OBD Error Code Details for P0130
O2 Sensor Circuit
What does this mean?
OBD Code P0130refers to
The O2 sensor produces a voltage based on oxygen content in the exhaust. The voltage varies between .1 and .9 Volts, .1 indicating lean and .9 indicating rich. The ECM constantly monitors this voltage while in closed loop to determine how much fuel to inject. If the ECM determines that the O2 sensor voltage was too low (less than .4 Volts) for too long (for more than 20 seconds (time varies with model)), this code is set.
Symptoms
Possible sumptoms of OBD code P0130
Depending if the problem is intermittent or not, there may be no symptoms other than MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) illumination. If the problem is constant, then symptoms may include one or more of the following: MIL illumination Engine runs rough, missing or stumbling Blows black smoke from tail pipe Engine dies Poor fuel economy
Causes
Possible causes of OBD code P0130
Usually the cause of P0130 is a bad oxygen sensor, however this isn't always the case. If your o2 sensors haven't been replaced and they are old, it's a good bet that the sensor is the problem. But, It could be caused by any of the following: Water or corrosion in the connector Loose terminals in the connector Wiring burnt on exhaust components Open or short in the wiring due to rubbing on engine components Holes in exhaust allowing unmetered oxygen into exhaust system Unmetered vacuum leak at the engine Bad o2 sensor Bad PCM
Possible Solutions
Using a scan tool, determine if the Bank 1, sensor 1 is switching properly. It should switch rapidly between rich and lean, evenly. 1. If it does, the problem is likely intermittent and you should examine the wiring for any visible damage. Then perform a wiggle test by manipulating the connector and wiring while watching the o2 sensor voltage. If it drops out, fix the appropriate part of the wiring harness where problem resides. 2. If it doesn\'t switch properly, try to determine if the sensor is accurately reading the exhaust or not. Do this by removing the fuel pressure regulator vacuum supply briefly. The o2 sensor reading should go rich, reacting to the extra fuel added. Reinstall regulator supply. Then induce a lean condition by removing a vacuum supply line from the intake manifold. The o2 sensor reading should go lean, reacting to the enleaned exhaust. If the sensor operates properly, then the sensor may be okay and the problem may be holes in the exhaust or an unmetered vacuum leak in the engine (NOTE: Unmetered vacuum leaks at the engine are almost always accompanied by lean codes. Refer to the appropriate articles for diagnosing an unmetered vacuum leak). If the exhaust does have holes in it, it's possible that the o2 sensor may be misreading the exhaust because of the extra oxygen entering the pipe via those holes 3. If none of this is the case and the o2 sensor just isn't switching or acts sluggish, unplug the sensor and make sure there is 5 Volt reference voltage to the sensor. Then check for 12V supply to the o2 sensor's heater circuit. Also check for continuity to ground on the ground circuit. If any of these are missing, or aren't their proper voltage, repair open or short in the appropriate wire. The o2 sensor will not operate properly without proper voltage. If the proper voltages are present, replace the o2 sensor.
Related Codes
P0115 P0116 P0117 P0118 P0119 P0125
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interesting reading,but which sensor is actually faulty ,as both mine are switching quite happily.. ::)
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somtimes the codes are wronge and it is somthing interfering usually the cam sensor, can happen somtimes, have seen codes come up like yours and probably 9/10 times its cam sensor fault., if in lip mode.
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this is the weird thing,the old sensor brought the eml light on every few hundred miles,code p0130
the new sensor brings the eml on after every journey,then shows code p0135.
always shows as bank 1,sensor 1,which i take to be the downpipe sensor ::)
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if sensors are all genuine gm sensors they should be fine, if not then you will get faults coming up. somtimes cam sensor say its working but make ecu say somthing eles. on mine a wile ago it made out that other sesore had gone but it was cam sensor, only found out by removing plug dfrom cam sensor and resting faults. and they all went and left cam sensor so changed it and was fine then.
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Sensor 1 is the downpipe sensor. I was getting exactly the same symptoms as you and I replaced my sensor on Saturday which has completely fixed it. And the car is running better then ever - I guess the sensor had been failing for a while but not showing the MIL until recently although it may have been affecting the mixture.
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aww,thats great,did you find your gearbox became erratic,ie holding gears for longer...mine used to changed gear around 3 thousand rpm
since faulty sensor its been changing at 4 and a half thousand rpm..
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aww,thats great,did you find your gearbox became erratic,ie holding gears for longer...mine used to changed gear around 3 thousand rpm
since faulty sensor its been changing at 4 and a half thousand rpm..
No... (not unless I had Sport selected :))
When the engine's cold it will take longer to change gear. I believe that is to speed up the warm up process. But fault codes can have strange effects on other things if you don't clear them.
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new downpipe lambda now fitted,will see how it goes.. :)