Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: doog on 29 September 2008, 21:17:46
-
Hi
I have a pre facelift omega and today i atempted to install an aftermarket set of speakers in the front doors only to find the hole in the door is very small
infact the hole looks like its for a 5 1/4 speaker i have used a autoleads speaker adaptor as is normal for vauxhalls
It looks like i will have to cut the doors with a dremel to get these speakers in as i cant bring them any further forward and get the door cards on.
Is this a common issue with fitting replacement speakers in omegas or is it just because of my choice of speakers?
thanks
Doug
-
I managed to fit 6.5s in two different cars :-?
What make are they?
-
Deep speakers do seem to be probelmatic
-
Deep speakers do seem to be probelmatic
dremel it is then :)
the basket at the rear is catching on the inside of the door
they are elemental designs 6.5 and tweeter
i will be using them with a vintage ten inch kef subwoofer and alpine amp in the boot
Doug
-
Deep speakers do seem to be probelmatic
dremel it is then :)
it seems shallow mount speakers are fine
the basket at the rear is catching on the inside of the door
they are elemental designs 6.5 and tweeter
i will be using them with a vintage ten inch kef subwoofer and alpine amp in the boot
Doug
-
Autoleads adaptors - whip off the pointy bit and rotate to fit
-
Autoleads adaptors - whip off the pointy bit and rotate to fit
i have used the autoleads adaptors already (see first post the basket is wider than the hole in the door
Doug
-
elemental designs do tend to use an over large magnet, and you may well find that the dremel is the best course of action to take.
Should sound good in there though, and would advise with those speakers to use a good layer of Flashband inside the door skin whilst you have the cards off to prevent them from rattling too much.
Flashband is a fraction of the price of Dynomat and other proprietory makes of sound deadening, and readiliy available from most DIY stores - a good tip for making the most of the sound in the car :y
-
Can you not make your own spacer from m.d.f thats what i do. If you put the speaker in the door and the magnets not that far from the outer skin i dont think you will get the best sound because the flow of air around the speaker its self will not be that great.
-
elemental designs do tend to use an over large magnet, and you may well find that the dremel is the best course of action to take.
Should sound good in there though, and would advise with those speakers to use a good layer of Flashband inside the door skin whilst you have the cards off to prevent them from rattling too much.
Flashband is a fraction of the price of Dynomat and other proprietory makes of sound deadening, and readiliy available from most DIY stores - a good tip for making the most of the sound in the car :y
i wish i have known before now i have spent hundreds of pounds on dynamat over the years :-/
cheers
Doug
-
If I am correct, its not just the depth that is the issue, its the physical sixe of the magnet and for an MDF ring to work, it would have to be a couple of inches thick !! The hole in the door skin needs enlarging to allow the magnet to sit in it. Air movement is not an issue really as the door is almost certainly the wrong volumetric size to start playing along that route.
-
here is a picture of the speakers compaired to the stock ones
I have fitted one side today using the autoleads adaptors and the window hits it when its opened fully
i will need to see how much further forward i can bring the speakers without running into problems fitting the door card back on :-?
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg174/r0x0rz1337/DSC00768.jpg)
-
Hmm, they look deeper than I thought
Make sure window is fully down when taking measurements as the power of the window motors could easily shatter the window if forced against the magnet
Be carefull !! :'(
-
Hmm, they look deeper than I thought
Make sure window is fully down when taking measurements as the power of the window motors could easily shatter the window if forced against the magnet
Be carefull !! :'(
Not on an Omega.....they have load sensing :y
-
Hmm, they look deeper than I thought
Make sure window is fully down when taking measurements as the power of the window motors could easily shatter the window if forced against the magnet
Be carefull !! :'(
Not on an Omega.....they have load sensing :y
Yes, I am aware of the load sensing, but take it from a speaker fitting specialist, as soon as the thin edge of that glass hits the magnet it will shatter instantly, way before enough pressure has been applied for the load sensing circuits to come into effect. Whilst the top edge is nice and polished to prevent fingers getting jammed, it is not often the case with the lower edge, which tends to be much rougher in its cut. Seen it happen far too many times.
:'(
-
Hmm, they look deeper than I thought
Make sure window is fully down when taking measurements as the power of the window motors could easily shatter the window if forced against the magnet
Be carefull !! :'(
Not on an Omega.....they have load sensing :y
Yes, I am aware of the load sensing, but take it from a speaker fitting specialist, as soon as the thin edge of that glass hits the magnet it will shatter instantly, way before enough pressure has been applied for the load sensing circuits to come into effect. Whilst the top edge is nice and polished to prevent fingers getting jammed, it is not often the case with the lower edge, which tends to be much rougher in its cut. Seen it happen far too many times.
:'(
There is also a large steel channel along the bottom, I would fear for the speaker frame!
-
As an idea I would keep the doors as it is , and would use spacers to mount..
if you cut the doors vibration and resonance can increase also..
ps: reason to use large diameter speakers is to have better bass sound that will bring problem inside the door, much better to use the trunk instead I think..
-
Hmm, they look deeper than I thought
Make sure window is fully down when taking measurements as the power of the window motors could easily shatter the window if forced against the magnet
Be carefull !! :'(
Not on an Omega.....they have load sensing :y
Yes, I am aware of the load sensing, but take it from a speaker fitting specialist, as soon as the thin edge of that glass hits the magnet it will shatter instantly, way before enough pressure has been applied for the load sensing circuits to come into effect. Whilst the top edge is nice and polished to prevent fingers getting jammed, it is not often the case with the lower edge, which tends to be much rougher in its cut. Seen it happen far too many times.
:'(
There is also a large steel channel along the bottom, I would fear for the speaker frame!
Channels seldom run teh full length of the window though, usually a few inches of bare glass at each end
:'(
-
just missed it 8-)
-
I had a similar problem fitting my speakers and a ring of 6mm MDF between the speaker and adaptor spaced it out just enough. Speakers didn't look as deep as those, though, and my car is a facelift.
Is there a rubber anti-resonant ring around the magnet at the back of the speaker or is that all magnet? Just thinking you could remove the rubber ring if needs must.
Kevin
-
magnet all the way to the back
I remember i had a set of mission speakers that had that rubber ring and fitted in a car after i removed this
shame would have saved alot of problems
Doug
-
As an idea I would keep the doors as it is , and would use spacers to mount..
if you cut the doors vibration and resonance can increase also..
ps: reason to use large diameter speakers is to have better bass sound that will bring problem inside the door, much better to use the trunk instead I think..
the speakers are not a larger diameter they are still 6 1/2 inch they are however deeper i have already spaced them out but its not enough and i am almost out of room before I hit the door card
I am not trying to get more bass out of my front doors i do however want high quality high power handling speakers that dont distort if you feed a reasonable amount of power i will run a high pass filter probably around the 80hz mark
while i am on the whole idea of a subwoofer is to re-enforce the bass so you have a full range of frequencys i dont want THUMP THUMP THUMP i grew out of that almost 20 years ago
In most cars i have heard the sub can be heard working and you know its in the boot i dont want sound like that i want most of the work done by the front speakers and a little re-enforcement of the bottom end by the subwoofer.
ps i have plans to build a transmission line sub cab probably running a single JL 8" or 10" since i have a large enough boot for it now :)
Doug
-
Im after putting new speakers in mt car.What speakers do you think will be best i dont really want to be building spaces for them :y
-
As an idea I would keep the doors as it is , and would use spacers to mount..
if you cut the doors vibration and resonance can increase also..
ps: reason to use large diameter speakers is to have better bass sound that will bring problem inside the door, much better to use the trunk instead I think..
the speakers are not a larger diameter they are still 6 1/2 inch they are however deeper i have already spaced them out but its not enough and i am almost out of room before I hit the door card
I am not trying to get more bass out of my front doors i do however want high quality high power handling speakers that dont distort if you feed a reasonable amount of power i will run a high pass filter probably around the 80hz mark
while i am on the whole idea of a subwoofer is to re-enforce the bass so you have a full range of frequencys i dont want THUMP THUMP THUMP i grew out of that almost 20 years ago
In most cars i have heard the sub can be heard working and you know its in the boot i dont want sound like that i want most of the work done by the front speakers and a little re-enforcement of the bottom end by the subwoofer.
ps i have plans to build a transmission line sub cab probably running a single JL 8" or 10" since i have a large enough boot for it now :)
Doug
Realy? I guess you are using an electronic filter or a headunit setting.....as a series cap would need to be 470uF and its not easy to ge a non-polarised one of those :y
-
yes its an electronic filter
even most basic ampifiers have some sort of hi and lowpass filters nowadays
i do have electronic cross overs and eq's up the loft somewhere from yesteryear but i found i was never happy and kept "tweaking" in the end i took them out and went back to a 2 way front speaker
do people still use caps and coils other than in passive crossovers?
last time i done anything like that was for a bandpass crossover when i have a 3 way front door set up
Doug
-
yes its an electronic filter
even most basic ampifiers have some sort of hi and lowpass filters nowadays
i do have electronic cross overs and eq's up the loft somewhere from yesteryear but i found i was never happy and kept "tweaking" in the end i took them out and went back to a 2 way front speaker
do people still use caps and coils other than in passive crossovers?
last time i done anything like that was for a bandpass crossover when i have a 3 way front door set up
Doug
Ow yes as they offer the lowest distortion option for true Hifi (which can not be achieved in a car for real use)
Reality is that creating a good passive crossover is not easy at all as you need to take a lot more than just the just the speaker resistance into account. Last one I did ended up with around 4 sides of A4 in maths having taken most of the speaker parameters into account!
-
yes its an electronic filter
even most basic ampifiers have some sort of hi and lowpass filters nowadays
i do have electronic cross overs and eq's up the loft somewhere from yesteryear but i found i was never happy and kept "tweaking" in the end i took them out and went back to a 2 way front speaker
do people still use caps and coils other than in passive crossovers?
last time i done anything like that was for a bandpass crossover when i have a 3 way front door set up
Doug
Ow yes as they offer the lowest distortion option for true Hifi (which can not be achieved in a car for real use)
Reality is that creating a good passive crossover is not easy at all as you need to take a lot more than just the just the speaker resistance into account. Last one I did ended up with around 4 sides of A4 in maths having taken most of the speaker parameters into account!
Scan it then and show us :y
-
I will see if I can dig it out of my notes in the loft!
Also used to do a lot of active filter design for bunging in front of power amps (i.e. for sub woofers etc)!
-
OK Mark how do you get time to learn all of this, I am busy all of the time and still don't know that much about things I like.
Too much time I suppose spent making models than other things!
-
OK Mark how do you get time to learn all of this, I am busy all of the time and still don't know that much about things I like.
Too much time I suppose spent making models than other things!
You have to remember that I did a degree in Electronic and Electrical Engineering specialising in advanced analogue electronics (including active filter design) and power electronics.
That plus a desire to design my own sub, amps etc means you find the time (and no kids back then!)
-
Can anyone tell how i can install woofer and amp in my omega with the factory fitted in-dash cd player??i kenwood amp and woofer.plz advise.
thank you.
-
OK Mark how do you get time to learn all of this, I am busy all of the time and still don't know that much about things I like.
Too much time I suppose spent making models than other things!
You have to remember that I did a degree in Electronic and Electrical Engineering specialising in advanced analogue electronics (including active filter design) and power electronics.
That plus a desire to design my own sub, amps etc means you find the time (and no kids back then!)
Usefull degree then :y
Bit better than my failed half way engineering one (I should have done computers but I was a year too old so missed the school ones).
Lack of children - yes I know the feeling, I also had a friend who was very good with analogue electronics.
However out of all the people I know, I would trust me to install HiFi & video gear as so many people are so useless, but build it hmm most I did was fit an aftermarket NICAM decoder to a VCR, with seamless operation (ie I didn't use line in) and even operated the stereo light.
-
Can anyone tell how i can install woofer and amp in my omega with the factory fitted in-dash cd player??i kenwood amp and woofer.plz advise.
thank you.
We need to know the model - someone here has fitted line out to a factory fitted head unit
-
the model is 2002....facelift model.
-
You have to remember that I did a degree in Electronic and Electrical Engineering specialising in advanced analogue electronics (including active filter design) and power electronics.
That plus a desire to design my own sub, amps etc means you find the time (and no kids back then!)
Filter theory used to make my head hurt! ;D
Kevin
-
You have to remember that I did a degree in Electronic and Electrical Engineering specialising in advanced analogue electronics (including active filter design) and power electronics.
That plus a desire to design my own sub, amps etc means you find the time (and no kids back then!)
Filter theory used to make my head hurt! ;D
Kevin
Lol, I sadistically used to like the mathematical analysis based on shorting inputs and outputs to 0V.......in order to calculate the transfer functions!
-
Can anyone tell how i can install woofer and amp in my omega with the factory fitted in-dash cd player??i kenwood amp and woofer.plz advise.its a 2002 facelift model v6.
thank you.
-
"doog" mate
I just fitted some deep speakers just like yours in the front and rear of my car, mine had speakers pods as standard ??? , and my newbies were much much deeper, just like yours, and they fitted perfectly with the pods already in there, I've got an elite that "had" the bose system in it so perhaps mine came with them in as stanard, because I see what you mean, you were to put the window down then it might have caught on it :s
-
was it the same speakers?
Mine were just hitting the window it would push the speaker out as it went down
Doug
-
was it the same speakers?
Mine were just hitting the window it would push the speaker out as it went down
Doug
My speakers were mutant speakers and a similar size to yours 17cm in the front, does yours have the black speaker pods as standards in it ?
Mine did, I just attached the speaker to it, adding a hole or 2 and tested with the window as I was worried also and it went past it.
I forgot I had the pods, as I had placed them in a bag, i thought I would have to actually cut the door as well as i saw the stupidly small speaker hole.
that doesn't help you though, although thought I would make a commend :o