Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Goonybird on 22 March 2009, 21:03:06
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Hi,
I have a 99T 2.5CDX with the CCRT700 HU and Blaupunkt 6CD in boot. I am quite happy to keep this unit.
Could someone advise best way to get a audio feed to an amp and sub in the boot. I have previous experience with car audio so wiring is not an issue.
What I do need to know,
Is there a pre-amp out on the multi plug at the back of the unit.
Is the car pre-wired already for the Bose amps?
Or, do I have to take a rear speaker feed into the amp. (not my favorite way)
many thanks
Steffi
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Hi,
I have a 99T 2.5CDX with the CCRT700 HU and Blaupunkt 6CD in boot. I am quite happy to keep this unit.
Could someone advise best way to get a audio feed to an amp and sub in the boot. I have previous experience with car audio so wiring is not an issue.
What I do need to know,
Is there a pre-amp out on the multi plug at the back of the unit.
Is the car pre-wired already for the Bose amps?
Or, do I have to take a rear speaker feed into the amp. (not my favorite way)
many thanks
Steffi
The BOSE output levels are not the same as standard RCA levels as required by your Bass amp.
Best way by far in this instance, (and I accept your hesitation), is to take a direct feed from the speakers via a high level convertor.
;)
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I just did this to my CD500, using one of these http://cpc.farnell.com/_/b070a/car-amplifier-impedance-matching/dp/CP03284?_requestid=535937
I snipped the bullet connectors off and extended the input cables so I could mount the unit behind the glove box, and spliced them in to the front speaker outputs behind the stereo. Solder them in proper and use shrink wrap tubing!
Then I used a female-female rca adaptor to connect it to a stereo RCA cable and ran it to the boot, along with power from the battery and signal feed to turn the amp on spliced into the power antenna line from the stereo.
Took an afternoon, hardest thing being drilling through the bulkhead and fitting a new grommet for the heavy guage power cable, but even this was ok. Sounds much better now!
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Again yes hi level input and then through a line driver imo!
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Quote " The BOSE output levels are not the same as standard RCA levels as required by your Bass amp.
Best way by far in this instance, (and I accept your hesitation), is to take a direct feed from the speakers via a high level convertor."
Thanks for the replies.
Where are the outputs for the Bose amp?
Also any info/details of the output levels / output impedence. I may consider making a buffer amplifier. Be a bit of fun.... :)
stef
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I just did this to my CD500, using one of these http://cpc.farnell.com/_/b070a/car-amplifier-impedance-matching/dp/CP03284?_requestid=535937
I snipped the bullet connectors off and extended the input cables so I could mount the unit behind the glove box, and spliced them in to the front speaker outputs behind the stereo. Solder them in proper and use shrink wrap tubing!
Then I used a female-female rca adaptor to connect it to a stereo RCA cable and ran it to the boot, along with power from the battery and signal feed to turn the amp on spliced into the power antenna line from the stereo.
Took an afternoon, hardest thing being drilling through the bulkhead and fitting a new grommet for the heavy guage power cable, but even this was ok. Sounds much better now!
would this work for a facelift with an NCDC2013?
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I just did this to my CD500, using one of these http://cpc.farnell.com/_/b070a/car-amplifier-impedance-matching/dp/CP03284?_requestid=535937
I snipped the bullet connectors off and extended the input cables so I could mount the unit behind the glove box, and spliced them in to the front speaker outputs behind the stereo. Solder them in proper and use shrink wrap tubing!
Then I used a female-female rca adaptor to connect it to a stereo RCA cable and ran it to the boot, along with power from the battery and signal feed to turn the amp on spliced into the power antenna line from the stereo.
Took an afternoon, hardest thing being drilling through the bulkhead and fitting a new grommet for the heavy guage power cable, but even this was ok. Sounds much better now!
would this work for a facelift with an NCDC2013?
This method of using a high level convertor on the speaker outputs should work with 99.9% of stereos that are under 25 watts per channel. If the stereo is of a higher power (unlikely to be OEM), then a higher power converter is required.
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I just did this to my CD500, using one of these http://cpc.farnell.com/_/b070a/car-amplifier-impedance-matching/dp/CP03284?_requestid=535937
I snipped the bullet connectors off and extended the input cables so I could mount the unit behind the glove box, and spliced them in to the front speaker outputs behind the stereo. Solder them in proper and use shrink wrap tubing!
Then I used a female-female rca adaptor to connect it to a stereo RCA cable and ran it to the boot, along with power from the battery and signal feed to turn the amp on spliced into the power antenna line from the stereo.
Took an afternoon, hardest thing being drilling through the bulkhead and fitting a new grommet for the heavy guage power cable, but even this was ok. Sounds much better now!
would this work for a facelift with an NCDC2013?
This method of using a high level convertor on the speaker outputs should work with 99.9% of stereos that are under 25 watts per channel. If the stereo is of a higher power (unlikely to be OEM), then a higher power converter is required.
The NCDC 2013 is the OEM Siemens unit, but how would i confirm that is a 25w/ch??
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I just did this to my CD500, using one of these http://cpc.farnell.com/_/b070a/car-amplifier-impedance-matching/dp/CP03284?_requestid=535937
I snipped the bullet connectors off and extended the input cables so I could mount the unit behind the glove box, and spliced them in to the front speaker outputs behind the stereo. Solder them in proper and use shrink wrap tubing!
Then I used a female-female rca adaptor to connect it to a stereo RCA cable and ran it to the boot, along with power from the battery and signal feed to turn the amp on spliced into the power antenna line from the stereo.
Took an afternoon, hardest thing being drilling through the bulkhead and fitting a new grommet for the heavy guage power cable, but even this was ok. Sounds much better now!
would this work for a facelift with an NCDC2013?
This method of using a high level convertor on the speaker outputs should work with 99.9% of stereos that are under 25 watts per channel. If the stereo is of a higher power (unlikely to be OEM), then a higher power converter is required.
The NCDC 2013 is the OEM Siemens unit, but how would i confirm that is a 25w/ch??
From memory, its only about 15W per channel - you should be fine
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Thanks very much dave!
When i have your attention?! is there a better way of connecting up an ipod to the NCDC 2013 than using an itrip?
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Thanks very much dave!
When i have your attention?! is there a better way of connecting up an ipod to the NCDC 2013 than using an itrip?
Not familiar with the iTrip - sorry.
NCDXXX units are not the easiest to connect iPods to though.
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Griffin iTrip - it produces an FM signal through which the ipod plays. tune radio in, hey presto. problem is the quality is poor.
what are my options if any for the NCDC?
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FM Modulator is the only way - we use these ones and have found them to be the best around
http://ice.dndservices.co.uk/shop_show_item.php/ST/modulator/IID/2947/PAGE/shop_search_index.php