Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: unlucky mark mv6 on 18 June 2009, 12:30:39
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
does that adjust the levels?
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
Very tasty dave ;) Might give that a go,only thing that puts me off though is the price,still worth every penny i suppose. :y
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
does that adjust the levels?
No adjustment, but as virtually every amp has a gain control that is adjustable, there is no need.
:y
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
Very tasty dave ;) Might give that a go,only thing that puts me off though is the price,still worth every penny i suppose. :y
Worth every penny and pays for me to keep on here giving free advice
8-)
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
Very tasty dave ;) Might give that a go,only thing that puts me off though is the price,still worth every penny i suppose. :y
Most autolead adapters are all around the £20 mark, give or take.
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
does that adjust the levels?
No adjustment, but as virtually every amp has a gain control that is adjustable, there is no need.
:y
Does it sort the impedance matching?
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
does that adjust the levels?
No adjustment, but as virtually every amp has a gain control that is adjustable, there is no need.
:y
Does it sort the impedance matching?
Pretty much - these leads are perfect when using low power and OEM head units up to around 4x25W
I wouldn`t recommend their use on higher power systems or aftermarket head units, as you would start to overdrive the built in line converter and could indeed end up with some side issues of impedance mis-matching as a result. (we have others for that)
Generally though, its a means to an end - using an OEM head unit is never going to set the world alight with regards to sound quality, but as a solution to those who have no other option than to use them, the subject of impedance matching is generally way down on the list of priorities as it will be fairly negligible in this sort of combination.
;)
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As above,does anyone know if they have any to connect an amp etc. :y
No, but if your Ok with a soldering iron you could try this-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174515451
Soldering iron not needed !!
Plug and play :y
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc9-451.html
does that adjust the levels?
No adjustment, but as virtually every amp has a gain control that is adjustable, there is no need.
:y
Does it sort the impedance matching?
Pretty much - these leads are perfect when using low power and OEM head units up to around 4x25W
I wouldn`t recommend their use on higher power systems or aftermarket head units, as you would start to overdrive the built in line converter and could indeed end up with some side issues of impedance mis-matching as a result. (we have others for that)
Generally though, its a means to an end - using an OEM head unit is never going to set the world alight with regards to sound quality, but as a solution to those who have no other option than to use them, the subject of impedance matching is generally way down on the list of priorities as it will be fairly negligible in this sort of combination.
;)
So is that a Yes or No then, are you saying that this lead / converter is feeding a 4 ohm load into a high impendence Amp input?, or does it have some bits in the middle to adjust levels and impedance match.
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In this sort of application, Yes.
If you were competing at a professional level in car audio competitions where signal impedance and every drop of sound is hyper critical and set up on an individual basis with an oscilloscope, then possibly not, but then you would not be messing around with this type of head unit combination anyway.
This lead will work perfectly when connecting an OEM head unit to the RCA inputs of an amplifier and yes, there is a small amount of circuitry in the lead to match the two together - please don`t confuse people by trying to look for a problem that really isn`t there.
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Or put it another way -
If a generic lead that solves the problem absolutely perfectly still leaves you anally concerned about impedance matching on the RCA lines . . . . .
Then ditch the head unit and buy somthing else :y
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In this sort of application, Yes.
If you were competing at a professional level in car audio competitions where signal impedance and every drop of sound is hyper critical and set up on an individual basis with an oscilloscope, then possibly not, but then you would not be messing around with this type of head unit combination anyway.
This lead will work perfectly when connecting an OEM head unit to the RCA inputs of an amplifier and yes, there is a small amount of circuitry in the lead to match the two together - please don`t confuse people by trying to look for a problem that really isn`t there.
That wasn't my intention; in fact I’m looking for something for myself hence why I asked that question (chill, Dave). I keep looking at a couple of Denon DCA800 Amps every time I open the cupboard and thinking of through'ing one in the Mig Estate. I too have a 2006 HU, so would be looking at doing the Kevin Mod thing for the Denon, unless there’s something else.
Whist on this subject, someone’s donated to me some MB Quarts speakers (any good for this? or bin them), Mid Bass, Mids and tweeters, no Subs though, Still not sure what to do about the Subs as don’t want to loose any estate space.
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Or put it another way -
If a generic lead that solves the problem absolutely perfectly still leaves you anally concerned about impedance matching on the RCA lines . . . . .
Then ditch the head unit and buy somthing else :y
Well this is the problem I have, there’s nothing really for me that looks right on that Double Din console, plus the biggest fear is Cost, not so much the HU but having to replace broken windows every week, you would not believe some of the places I have to park up in London in my Job.
To most thieves, if it looks Factory fitted they tend to leave it alone and move on to the next one.
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Zirk,
Sorry my friend, didn`t intend to blast off at you there, frustration is kicking in over trying to reply in laymans terms to a problem that really isn`t important to 99.9% of the people, yet I`m waiting for the 0.1% who are going to argue no matter what I respond with.
::)
However . . . . .
You have a cupboard full of DCA800 amps, some MB Quartz speakers, and what promises to be a good weekend ahead of us.
Get them fitted mate !! :y
Use the lead I have suggested for the RCA conversion, and set the gains on the amps to around 0.4 V - 0.5 V and all should be well.
As far as subs / estate goes, I had a similar problem in my RS4, as I didn`t want to lose valuable space. So what I have done is to fit the amplifiers etc hidden away, but to terminate the sub output on a socket that has been flushed into the rear 1/4 panel trim. That way I can use a seperate sub box and plug it in / out very very quickly whilst keeping all connections nice and tidy. The speaker box connectors and Banana plugs used by most sub boxes are perfect for this.
:y
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Zirk,
Sorry my friend, didn`t intend to blast off at you there, frustration is kicking in over trying to reply in laymans terms to a problem that really isn`t important to 99.9% of the people, yet I`m waiting for the 0.1% who are going to argue no matter what I respond with.
::)
However . . . . .
You have a cupboard full of DCA800 amps, some MB Quartz speakers, and what promises to be a good weekend ahead of us.
Get them fitted mate !! :y
Use the lead I have suggested for the RCA conversion, and set the gains on the amps to around 0.4 V - 0.5 V and all should be well.
As far as subs / estate goes, I had a similar problem in my RS4, as I didn`t want to lose valuable space. So what I have done is to fit the amplifiers etc hidden away, but to terminate the sub output on a socket that has been flushed into the rear 1/4 panel trim. That way I can use a seperate sub box and plug it in / out very very quickly whilst keeping all connections nice and tidy. The speaker box connectors and Banana plugs used by most sub boxes are perfect for this.
:y
Well I was thinking about.... (You’re not going to like this!) Adapting a Mig Estate Bose plastic Sub box and replacing the speaker as I’ve got a couple of them lying around somewhere. I’m not really after waking the Nebours or moving people’s inner ear wax, just a nice balanced sub bass to match the rest. Any thoughts on Brands.
Chris.
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Modifying an existing box?
No problems with that at all - sounds a good idea.
Unsure on speaker physical dimensions, but thats easy to determine with a tape measure.
What is more important though, is the volumetric capacity (box size), and finding a speaker that will perform in a similar box.
Not familiar with the box, is it sealed? Ported? are your hacking it about to get something larger in whilst retaining the mounting frame? and pictures?
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Modifying an existing box?
No problems with that at all - sounds a good idea.
Unsure on speaker physical dimensions, but thats easy to determine with a tape measure.
What is more important though, is the volumetric capacity (box size), and finding a speaker that will perform in a similar box.
Not familiar with the box, is it sealed? Ported? are your hacking it about to get something larger in whilst retaining the mounting frame? and pictures?
Dont have any pics at the moment, but there bigger than you would think, about half a meter long, sealed, not ported, with a single Bose Sub, they fit behind the rear panel behind the rear wheel arch, ideally wanting to use the existing mount..
Another plan was to use a Mazda Spare Wheel Bose box and modifing, but you you lose the spare wheel.
Edit:- there was an Mig Sub Box on ebay recently (not mine) so have a butchers here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350193837476
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Far from wanting to fit a 32" sub to every car that comes in (I leave that to the lads) I`m more into adding discreet and unobtrusive bass, and I`m sure you could do something with that box.
Looks around a 6" sub from the picture? What is the diagonal measurement across the screws that hold it in? around 160mm ?
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Far from wanting to fit a 32" sub to every car that comes in (I leave that to the lads) I`m more into adding discreet and unobtrusive bass, and I`m sure you could do something with that box.
Looks around a 6" sub from the picture? What is the diagonal measurement across the screws that hold it in? around 160mm ?
No idea, but I'll check this weekend and come back to you. :y
Chris.