Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: dawchiks on 12 January 2011, 17:14:02
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so.... time to change sensors. Max rpm is 4.5k, car sometimes stalls while driving and once it didnt want to start at all, after a minute of trying it did. should I change both sensors?
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what car is it?
have you checked fault codes?
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oh, forgot about those details - '00 x20xev.
fault codes said it's cam and crank sensor.
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on a 2.0 I would go for the cam and see how it goes, they are well known for chucking up other codes too.
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changed cam sensor, for about 15 minutes I was happy. Now 'check engine' light again is on. 100$ well spent. any ideas on what to do next?
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changed cam sensor, for about 15 minutes I was happy. Now 'check engine' light again is on. 100$ well spent. any ideas on what to do next?
Was it a genuine VX/Opel :question
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had same prob a while ago tried 2 new sensors last one was genuine gm but still the same .turned out to be a broken wire unclip the two plastic trunking s ie the one on the front of cam cover and the one above the injectors trace the cam sesore wire and check where it enters or exits the plastic moldings mine had rubbed through on one of these have a good look at the plug as well as i believe wires tend to get pulled and break hope this helps best of luck westy :y
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will check the wire, but my car sometimes doesnt have check engine light on, and it revs up to 7k rpm, but at about 85C car stalls, and when I turn it on, check engine light is on again. Well, what im trying to say is - it sometimes works, but not for long, and when it decides not to work, the car stalls. Will check the wire tho.
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I have the same symptoms as you described dawchiks. "My Naff Code Reader" shoved the Cam sensor is on its way out
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well, I have a new cam sensor, but still - code 0340 shows, which means there is a fault with cam sensor. maybe the wiring is the problem. will check the wiring tomorrow.
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You sure it is the genuine sensor?
4 cilinder migs seem to hate pattern cam sensors, especially the 2.2 engines.
Mine wouldn't work at all when fitted with a pattern one.
Does the car work ok now?
Error can take some time to be deleted
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well, the car works fine. While the car is cold ( less than 80-85 C) sometimes check engine light isnt ON when starting the car, and the car revs past 4.5k rpm. then, when warm, it just stalls while driving, then I just turn it on and continue driving with 'Check Engine' in the display.
what do u mean by 'some time'? How much time?
maybe i should disconnect the battery for a while? dunno.
I can turn the car on and off for ~10 times, and one of those times the check engine light probably will not be ON.
I just dont know why the car stalls after a while, if car started without check engine light, dunno if it's realted to temperature or just randomly stalls when it wants to.
There have been a few times when the car stalled with the Check Engine light ON, but when there are no warning lights in display, it'll stall after a while, that's for sure, and after starting it again, it'll have 'Check Engine' on dash.
dunno about sensor, i just know it was 80$.
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You have to wait certain amount of time between turning the ignition on.
Codes can take up to 20 ignitions to be deleted.
I have something similar on my car but much less noticeable.
Check control comes on ocassionally and it happens only when the engine is warm, never came on while the engine was cold.
Very rarely it comes on when the engine is harshly driven with higher revs.
Never came on when the car is driven normally or slowly.
Code reader points to cam sensor ( I haven't replaced it yet Bought a pattern once but the car wouldn't work at all with it)
Several things could be the culprit
Cam sensor, if yu replaced it wait a little to se will the codes clear completely.
Ignition leads (spark leads).
Blocked injectors cause of dirty fuel.
Or even maybe the cat is partially blocked and the car cannot work normally).