Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: mdbs on 22 April 2011, 10:10:27
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HI, I am collecting parts to put an Omega V6 into an MX5.
I have bought, subject to collecting it, an S reg MV6 manual.
Any help with how to go about the wiring and or wiring diagrams etc would be great, thanks.
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If you can get a Haynes book of 'dangle berries' from egay cheap enough, might be best bet. The pre DBW V6 engine wiring is covered.
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Thanks, will look.
DBW? whats that?
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.....
DBW? whats that?
Drive By Wire ie no throttle cable :y
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Bough one off Ebay, thanks for the idea. 0.99p ;)
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Dont forget, when the engine is out to replace the cam belt and tensioners as well as the cam covers. use gen vx parts for these as pattern are crap. So much easier when not surrounded by the body. Also consider changing the zorst manifold gaskets as well. a right git to do when motor is installed. ::)
Good luck to you and let us have reg updates and pics.
Gary. :y
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The cam belt was planned, but had not thought about manifolds so will do those too, whats the issue with cam covers?
And while I am asking what oil do you guys like? I find different engines can be fussy with oil, you can use the same grade etc and yet one will be quieter than another sometimes. I lean towards Castrol fully synthetics..
And thanks.
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vx oem semi-synth uis the usually recommended one.
someone will come along in a minute and tell you how much it is with a trade card :y
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The cam cover gaskets tend to harden and leak on these engines, not helped when the breather system blocks and the crankcase gets pressurised so it's advisable to replace the cam cover gaskets and clean the breather system out before it goes into it's new home IMHO.
Only use genuine cam cover gaskets. Pattern parts don't appear to last long at all in this application.
Oil wise, GM 10w40 semi synthetic is perfect for these engines and cheap (£10 ish for 5L) on trade club if you join AutoBahnStormers. These engines do tend to build up deposits, so regular changes are more important than oil quality, IMHO.
If the engine is unknown to you, might well be worth dropping the sump and checking the oil pickup for debris, again, easy when it's out of the car. They have been known to clog, causing oil pressure failure, especially when a neglected engine starts getting fresh oil and all the crud gets washed out into the sump.
Kevin
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Sounds like a load of good sense to me, thanks again.
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Collected the MV6 on Monday, have to say I was surprised how nice it is to drive.
Goes ok too I guess considering how heavy it is.
Only issue was the engine cooling fan(s) dont work so I had to watch traffic jams. Ended up driving loads of extra miles just to keep on the move.
Anyone need any parts let me know. They will be cheap.
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Collected the MV6 on Monday, have to say I was surprised how nice it is to drive.
Goes ok too I guess considering how heavy it is.
Only issue was the engine cooling fan(s) dont work so I had to watch traffic jams. Ended up driving loads of extra miles just to keep on the move.
Anyone need any parts let me know. They will be cheap.
Don't be - why do you think there are so many fans :y
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Well, Keeping my head down but prior to driving this one I was not sure what you guys saw in them.
I am now a wiser man. And to think this is not really that nice a car I wonder what a nice ones like.
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whereabouts are you ?
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Buckinghamshire. :)
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Well, Keeping my head down but prior to driving this one I was not sure what you guys saw in them.
I am now a wiser man. And to think this is not really that nice a car I wonder what a nice ones like.
Although I`m not a fan of the Omega myself, I will agree that they are indeed very nice to drive and have plenty of grunt - you can see why Plod found them so appealing !!
However, transplant that engine into an MX5, and I for one will be queing up to take a look and have a drive !!
:y
P.S. Don`t forget to post some pictures up here as the build progresses
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Wiring is fairly easy as there are only a few connections the engine needs to run with a main one being the feed from the immobiliser (the immobiliser ECU will need to be kept to)
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Wiring is fairly easy as there are only a few connections the engine needs to run with a main one being the feed from the immobiliser (the immobiliser ECU will need to be kept to)
Presumably you also need to retain the aerial near the igntion barrel and transponder chip from inside the original key ?
:-?
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Well that sounds good, I think I am possibly worrying too much about wiring but I dont like electricity.
I have bought a Haynes manual but do you know exactly which wires I need?
And thanks for your interest.
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Can't help you much with technicalities of the wiring - I know for similar transplants I've read up elsewhere the wiring loom has been transferred wholesale including the ignition switch which gets hidden somewhere with the key permanently in place to keep the ECU happy.
But like I said don't take my word for this, there are a lot of people on here who can give you much better info'.
The purpose of my post is to salute you and wish you luck with the conversion - hope you will give us some updates as you go along.
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are you at the part where you need a loom making ?
when you get there, just give me a call and I'll make one for you, complete with the immobiliser part if needed. From memory, some of the early onnes use a different system.
is your MX5 a European one or not ?
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Wiring is fairly easy as there are only a few connections the engine needs to run with a main one being the feed from the immobiliser (the immobiliser ECU will need to be kept to)
Presumably you also need to retain the aerial near the igntion barrel and transponder chip from inside the original key ?
:-?
Immobiliser ECU is part of the aerial assembly (or vice versa depending on how you look at it) :y
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just to get this straight, you mean the ECU that hangs off the ignition key.
and that's the same for even the very early ones with the IR key fob. ?
I'm trying to do this in such a way as uses the GM immobiliser and the Mazda key, but it's just not coming to me at the moment. My MX-5 uses the same sort of transponder key as most of my Omegas, with the antenna wrapped around the ignition key. But if his is a Japanese one, then it's going to be a different story.
I really don't want to do the "key and transponder taped together behind the dash" thing 'cos that's just a butcher job.
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just to get this straight, you mean the ECU that hangs off the ignition key.
and that's the same for even the very early ones with the IR key fob. ?
I'm trying to do this in such a way as uses the GM immobiliser and the Mazda key, but it's just not coming to me at the moment. My MX-5 uses the same sort of transponder key as most of my Omegas, with the antenna wrapped around the ignition key. But if his is a Japanese one, then it's going to be a different story.
I really don't want to do the "key and transponder taped together behind the dash" thing 'cos that's just a butcher job.
The very early setups (upto 1995) used an IR system and a relay to act as an immobiliser, this is easy to disable.
The later setup (from memory referred to as the Deadlock2) uses the transponder and immobiliser ecu with the transponder being a Philips (now NXP) contactless chip with a unique code hard programmed into it (there are some versions which can be one time programmed which some lock smiths use) which sits in the key.
The immobiliser ECU incorporates the aerial and sits around ignition barrel.
So the system works by the immobilsier ECU detecting the transponder code and comparing it to the ones it has been programmed with.
If it is recognised, the immobiliser ECU then sends a (different) code to the ecu which maintains the engine running.
Hence, the immboiliser chips are programmed to the immobiliser ECU and the Immobiliser ECU is programmed to the engine ECU.
If your Mazda key has the correct type of transponder then this could be coded (via tech 2 or other) to the immobilser ECU which is associated with the donor engine ECU.
As an addition, the immobiliser process is not overly fast and you can test this by jumping in the car and quickly firing the engine up with no transponder present as it will start and run for a few seconds before cutting out and the ECU light flashing. :y
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thanks for the offer 2woody i will let you know when I get there. Can you PM me your mobile?
My MX5 is a 95 UK car with no imobiliser key at all its just a simple old fashoned key.
The omega is an S reg MV6.
At the moment I am painting suspension parts to go on. Until my old caravan makes room for the Mx I cant start really.. Not long now though.
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The very early setups (upto 1995) used an IR system and a relay to act as an immobiliser, this is easy to disable.
you're in luck - I recently scrapped one of these cars,so have an early-style ECU around, although I may need help locating it in my large box of ECUs
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Sorry, but was that reply for me? Lol
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oh yes 'twas for you :P
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Cool, I dont know if I need it but if you say I do great. Will call you soon...