Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Shackeng on 23 July 2011, 14:03:48
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Looking in the FL handbook there is no suggestion of 'disconnect within 15 secs of ignition switch off' as in my MFL, to avoid loud noises. Is this correct?
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remove the negative terminal first and then the positive
ive read where other members say you need to leave it for as bit but ive never bothered and its never caused an issue
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Thanks T, no sound problems encountered. :y
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Looking in the FL handbook there is no suggestion of 'disconnect within 15 secs of ignition switch off' as in my MFL, to avoid loud noises. Is this correct?
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/andrew.reynolds983/Manuals/Omega2002Manual.pdf
Page 61
If the powersounder is knackerede it won't sound .. but may catch fire !!!!! best to physicaly check if you have one fitted if it is not making a noise !!!
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Looking in the FL handbook there is no suggestion of 'disconnect within 15 secs of ignition switch off' as in my MFL, to avoid loud noises. Is this correct?
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/andrew.reynolds983/Manuals/Omega2002Manual.pdf
Page 61
If the powersounder is knackerede it won't sound .. but may catch fire !!!!! best to physicaly check if you have one fitted if it is not making a noise !!!
I knew there was a reference somewhere in the handbook & searched through the manual in the link from here (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1243594756) Page 61 is different click (http://images.omegaowners.com/documents/UserGuides/OmegaOct2002.pdf)
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Thanks very much Nigel & Andy, (mine is on page 63), but no reference to it in the index! It has a power sounder fitted, but is not beeping as they appear to do when failing. So, the question is, if it didn't go off when the battery was disconnected, and is giving no other indication of failure, how to test it? I currently have the TD one removed as a precaution after horror stories on here, and it was working OK, albeit 2 years older. I guess I could plug that in to check the rest of the system, if they are the same type and connection. Suggestions welcome please.
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So, the question is, if it didn't go off when the battery was disconnected, and is giving no other indication of failure, how to test it?
I'd say you already have. ;) If you disconnect the battery without observing the "ignition on then battery off within 15 seconds" rule, it should have gone off. If it didn't it's likely knackered IMHO.
Do both the power sounder and the horn sound when you set off the alarm?
Kevin
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Ah, I think I have a problem. Although I'm not sure of the easiest way to set off the alarm, I tried rocking the car with it locked, and all I got was the four trafficator lights flashing. No noises!
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Sounds like both sounders have failed, then (or disconnected?).
Kevin
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Thanks Kevin, need to do some research now on the circuitry, not my strong point, I'm comfortable with connections made by 'a suitable system of gears and linkages', after that, I'm on dodgy ground. :y
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Both sounders are under the scuttle on the driver's side. There's the power sounder and also a device that looks like a normal car horn (but is only used for the alarm).
The horn like device has 2 connections, 12V positive and negative, switched by the alarm / central locking ECU.
The power sounder has 4 connections - 12v permanent from battery, 12v switched by the ignition key, a data link with the alarm / central locking ECU and negative / ground.
Just think of the wires as linkages with electrons being herded along them. ;)
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Both sounders are under the scuttle on the driver's side. There's the power sounder and also a device that looks like a normal car horn (but is only used for the alarm).
The horn like device has 2 connections, 12V positive and negative, switched by the alarm / central locking ECU.
The power sounder has 4 connections - 12v permanent from battery, 12v switched by the ignition key, a data link with the alarm / central locking ECU and negative / ground.
Just think of the wires as linkages with electrons being herded along them. ;)
Ah yes, but I was told the elctrons move the wrong way! ie, -ve to +ve, so I was never truly convinced about the wiggly amp business.
Thanks for the info. will have a look when I get a spare moment. :y :y :y
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... the wiggly amp ....
It's a long time since I heard that phrase ;D
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.... Although I'm not sure of the easiest way to set off the alarm, .....
Lock the car via the fob & then unlock with the key in the door, opening the door should then trigger the alarm. :y
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.... Although I'm not sure of the easiest way to set off the alarm, .....
Lock the car via the fob & then unlock with the key in the door, opening the door should then trigger the alarm. :y
or lock the door with the drivers window open .. then wave an arm in through the open window !!! :)
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.... Although I'm not sure of the easiest way to set off the alarm, .....
Lock the car via the fob & then unlock with the key in the door, opening the door should then trigger the alarm. :y
or lock the door with the drivers window open .. then wave an arm in through the open window !!! :)
Tried that, ........nothing, but rocking it did set off the indicators only. Are there any relays/fuses associated with this system (he says, too lazy to look in the book ::) ::) ::))
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.... Although I'm not sure of the easiest way to set off the alarm, .....
Lock the car via the fob & then unlock with the key in the door, opening the door should then trigger the alarm. :y
or lock the door with the drivers window open .. then wave an arm in through the open window !!! :)
The alarm does not sound when I do this, nor do the trafficators flash, although they do if I rock the car when locked. The 30A fuse which supplies this also does other stuff which still work. Is there a common point where both horns may have become disconnected? And is there a relay involved?