Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tunnie on 30 September 2011, 11:25:14
-
Any tips? All 4 sheared, leaving a sizeable chuck of bolt left in.
Planing to hacksaw off the ends, then drill them out.
Anything I can do to make job easier? Any special drill bits worth investment or just burn through a million el-cheapo ones?
-
Pita to do while on the car imo. I think its easier to remove the cats to do the job.I was given advice on which type of drill bits to use, but I cant remember the name now. ::)
Dont run the drill at high speed and dont use too much pressure,you will burn the bits out and get nowhere fast. Run the drill quite slow and let it find its own way.
If you have access to thread taps its best to drill them out slightly smaller than the diameter of the studs and then clean the thread out with a tap, allowing you to use new studs/bolts in the original thread. Much m ore professional looking job than nuts and bolts, if you can do it that way imo. :y
-
Cheers, not got any taps, you should know I never have the right tools!
Previous exhausts have been nut and bolted as there was no thread.
Access underneath is actually ok for me, think taking cats off will be more of a hassle....
Think i'll use my Matika drill to attack it, but as you say slowly does it, slowly making my way up in drill bit sizes.
Take it its not a good idea to start with big drill bit?
-
probably easier to drill amaller pilot hole first imo. ;)
-
Start off with a small drill bit and work up ;)
-
I would get some Taps Tunnie, they great tools and if you look after them they will serve you a life time, with Taps your need some cutting paste or theres some good spray can equivalents, use this stuff for the drilling as well, and as Albs says not too fast, if you do use Taps make sure you get the right size final drill bit size as it wont be in your standard box.
Cheap drill bits are false economy in my book, get some decent bits, buy them as you need them, worse case if you blunt them theres still plenty of workshops out there that can re sharpen them for pennies.
Chris.
-
Start off with a small drill bit and work up ;)
Did that last time on fatty admins MV6, but you get in even more trouble after you snap those too ::) :-X
-
Guess this should get job done! ;D
http://www.screwfix.com/p/combination-drill-bit-kit-160-piece-set/88149 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/combination-drill-bit-kit-160-piece-set/88149)
-
in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out ???
-
Also, dont hacksaw the stumps off, depending on length you may find that when youve drilled to almost the diameter of the studs, you might be able to grip tham with molegrips and undo whats left of the studs, thereby preserving the threads. :y
-
Guess this should get job done! ;D
http://www.screwfix.com/p/combination-drill-bit-kit-160-piece-set/88149 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/combination-drill-bit-kit-160-piece-set/88149)
Not ideal, IMHO. You won't need the masonry or wood drill bits and the steel ones are only noname HSS bits.
I would get a smaller set of cobalt HSS bits - unless you want the other bits? You will probably get through a few of the HSS bits though. :-\
-
Guess this should get job done! ;D
http://www.screwfix.com/p/combination-drill-bit-kit-160-piece-set/88149 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/combination-drill-bit-kit-160-piece-set/88149)
Not ideal, IMHO. You won't need the masonry or wood drill bits and the steel ones are only noname HSS bits.
I would get a smaller set of cobalt HSS bits - unless you want the other bits? You will probably get through a few of the HSS bits though. :-\
Thats the name I was trying to remember. :y ::) ;D
-
in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out ???
Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.
Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?
-
Guess this should get job done! ;D
http://www.screwfix.com/p/combination-drill-bit-kit-160-piece-set/88149 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/combination-drill-bit-kit-160-piece-set/88149)
Not ideal, IMHO. You won't need the masonry or wood drill bits and the steel ones are only noname HSS bits.
I would get a smaller set of cobalt HSS bits - unless you want the other bits? You will probably get through a few of the HSS bits though. :-\
Thats the name I was trying to remember. :y ::) ;D
Something like this?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hss-cobalt-drill-bit-set-15pcs/95497 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hss-cobalt-drill-bit-set-15pcs/95497)
-
in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out ???
Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.
Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?
Find a nut that will slip over the stud and then weld it on. Give it a good soak in plus gas and have another go. The heat generated when welding will help unsieze the thread. :y
-
in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out ???
Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.
Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?
Find a nut that will slip over the stud and then weld it on. Give it a good soak in plus gas and have another go. The heat generated when welding will help unsieze the thread. :y
Cheers Kevin, I'll have to borrow fatties welder, might need to practice on something first!
-
Something like this?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hss-cobalt-drill-bit-set-15pcs/95497 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hss-cobalt-drill-bit-set-15pcs/95497)
Could be. Lot of money to get a couple of studs out, though. :-\
The downside is that they are brittle, and as hard as nails if you do break bit off inside.
I would try the welding trick first, followed by some decent quality HSS bits.
-
in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out ???
Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.
Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?
depending on the weld type it may/must.. all I know is argon welding is good :-\
-
in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out ???
Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.
Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?
depending on the weld type it may/must.. all I know is argon welding is good :-\
Tunnie, when you weld it try to cool it quickly with clean engine oil so iron structure will have less carbon inside.. (from theory)
-
in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out ???
Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.
Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?
depending on the weld type it may/must.. all I know is argon welding is good :-\
hmmm , its TIG (argon) welding I know someone from OOF who bought it recently ;D
-
Tunnie, when you weld it try to cool it quickly with clean engine oil so iron structure will have less carbon inside.. (from theory)
Yep. A squirt of plus gas is a good plan, as it will both cool and be drawn into the thread as it contracts too. Or it'll catch fire and singe your eyebrows. ::)
-
Something like this?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hss-cobalt-drill-bit-set-15pcs/95497 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hss-cobalt-drill-bit-set-15pcs/95497)
Could be. Lot of money to get a couple of studs out, though. :-\
The downside is that they are brittle, and as hard as nails if you do break bit off inside.
I would try the welding trick first, followed by some decent quality HSS bits.
Exactly problem had before, i'd like to try it. But I've only welded once by direction of the master. Is it that hard to weld a bolt on? :-\
Guess you put bolt flush with the sheared part & weld across it? :-\
Also no idea what welder TB has :-[
-
Tunnie, when you weld it try to cool it quickly with clean engine oil so iron structure will have less carbon inside.. (from theory)
Yep. A squirt of plus gas is a good plan, as it will both cool and be drawn into the thread as it contracts too. Or it'll catch fire and singe your eyebrows. ::)
Kevin , oil quenching is a frequently used method for getting stronger steel.. (probably you know) .. if you let it cool slowly , quality of steel/iron reduces..
-
Tunnie, when you weld it try to cool it quickly with clean engine oil so iron structure will have less carbon inside.. (from theory)
Yep. A squirt of plus gas is a good plan, as it will both cool and be drawn into the thread as it contracts too. Or it'll catch fire and singe your eyebrows. ::)
I managed to set fire to the aux belt pulley on the Nissan not once but three times like that.. ;D All the oil & plusgas soaked into the cracked rubber, and every time I went near it with the torch .. whoomf!
Speaking of hardened drill bits - whatever you do, don't snap one or a stud extractor off in the remains of the stud.. I did that once; ended up getting it spark eroded (thankfully that didn't cost me anything ;D)
-
Anyone got any burners? This looks to do job nicely!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYSZncjnzVs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYSZncjnzVs)
-
As I don't actually have a burner, would this method work? :-\
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M)
-
expensive good quality bits are a good bet, not so small they snap easily.... nothing less than 5 mm IMHO.
.
flatten off the end with a grinder, then a bloody good hit with a hardened centre punch, and a lump hammer, to stop the bot wandering as you get started... then slow-ish drilling, lubricating the drill bit to cool it as you go.... once you're in a fair distance, it's time to decide whther to drill out with a larger bit, or try an extractor bit.... i usually go with the extractor, judging by hand if the torque is likely to snap it... not broken one in years.... but have chickened out several times and reverted to the drill out larger route....
if access is a problem i have a half decent cordless right-angle drill you're welcome to borrow... much less room needed to get in with... although harder to keep as solid and steady ...
I have a set of larger steel bits.... designed for drilling structural steel work, but i think the smallest i have is about 8mm, maybe 10... which is almost certainly too big.
(a part of my work occasionally includes structural steel in studio builds, and hanging stuff off it , or bolting through it)
weird really.... i have almost every tool imaginable for building and DIY stuff, and Luthiery and electronics.... but bugger all for doing the car....
-
expensive good quality bits are a good bet, not so small they snap easily.... nothing less than 5 mm IMHO.
.
flatten off the end with a grinder, then a bloody good hit with a hardened centre punch, and a lump hammer, to stop the bot wandering as you get started... then slow-ish drilling, lubricating the drill bit to cool it as you go.... once you're in a fair distance, it's time to decide whther to drill out with a larger bit, or try an extractor bit.... i usually go with the extractor, judging by hand if the torque is likely to snap it... not broken one in years.... but have chickened out several times and reverted to the drill out larger route....
if access is a problem i have a half decent cordless right-angle drill you're welcome to borrow... much less room needed to get in with... although harder to keep as solid and steady ...
I have a set of larger steel bits.... designed for drilling structural steel work, but i think the smallest i have is about 8mm, maybe 10... which is almost certainly too big.
(a part of my work occasionally includes structural steel in studio builds, and hanging stuff off it , or bolting through it)
weird really.... i have almost every tool imaginable for building and DIY stuff, and Luthiery and electronics.... but bugger all for doing the car....
Thanks for really kind offer Max :y
I have one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-8281dwpe-14-4v-1-3ah-ni-cd-cordless-combi-drill/39849 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-8281dwpe-14-4v-1-3ah-ni-cd-cordless-combi-drill/39849)
Which should give me access, I'm very tempted to try welding route first. Weld a nut on, after the stud has been soaked in plus gas, pop a spanner on it & then just cross my fingers it breaks the seal!
Shame on those sizes, few mm smaller would have been perfect. I've done drilling & centre punch route before, its not nice :(
-
ok.. I have seen many cases that those evil things dont come out.. if I were you before welding , I would use penetrating oil , wait few hours, than tap with hammer many times but not that hard (slowly and be careful not to shorten it if necessary use some small diameter metal) not to destroy whats left.. rust is not a strong material and will easily get loose.. :y
-
and then weld a t shape metal and slowly the t-edges hammer it..
-
::) I definitely need an edit button :(
-
Thanks Cem :y
Think it is way to go after previous experiences :)
-
As I don't actually have a burner, would this method work? :-\
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M)
If you've got enough length to get the 2 bolts on then yes, but it doesn't get round the fact that the stud is siezed. You would still need to get it very hot to loosen it off and even still it might break again. Worth a try, though.
-
As I don't actually have a burner, would this method work? :-\
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M)
If you've got enough length to get the 2 nuts on then yes, but it doesn't get round the fact that the stud is siezed. You would still need to get it very hot to loosen it off and even still it might break again. Worth a try, though.
Think i could just about get two bolts on there, no method of heating it up though (other than welder) :(
Planning on getting some PlusGas and soak it in that overnight before attacking again. Was hoping two fresh nuts on it, would fair better :-\
-
Think i could just about get two bolts on there, no method of heating it up though (other than welder) :(
Planning on getting some PlusGas and soak it in that overnight before attacking again. Was hoping two fresh nuts on it, would fair better :-\
It might do, now that the clamping force is not on the thread (as bolt head has come off)
Why not weld the nuts on? Or get a cheapo gas blowtorch and heat it up? Won't get it glowing like the oxy-acetylene job on that video but it will help.
-
Think i could just about get two bolts on there, no method of heating it up though (other than welder) :(
Planning on getting some PlusGas and soak it in that overnight before attacking again. Was hoping two fresh nuts on it, would fair better :-\
It might do, now that the clamping force is not on the thread (as bolt head has come off)
Why not weld the nuts on? Or get a cheapo gas blowtorch and heat it up? Won't get it glowing like the oxy-acetylene job on that video but it will help.
Did come clean off, I also do have some more nuts from exhaust kits that should be same mm and screw straight on :)
-
I have one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-8281dwpe-14-4v-1-3ah-ni-cd-cordless-combi-drill/39849 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-8281dwpe-14-4v-1-3ah-ni-cd-cordless-combi-drill/39849)
Which should give me access, I'm very tempted to try welding route first. Weld a nut on, after the stud has been soaked in plus gas, pop a spanner on it & then just cross my fingers it breaks the seal!
Shame on those sizes, few mm smaller would have been perfect. I've done drilling & centre punch route before, its not nice :(
it's this one
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ryobi-cap-1801m-18v-angled-cordless-drill-driver-bare/83073
the battery section rotates to stay out of the way in tight spaces...
( i have almost the complete set, jig & circular saws, assorted drills, sanders, etc etc , and a couple of chargers and a pile of both NiCad and Li-ion ... very handy )
the weld route is a good one..... but needs a good weld on the nut , or you get pissed off very quickly if A) you manage to weld it to the rest of the engine... or B) it keeps breaking off.....
-
As I have bolts of same thread (i think) it should be just a question of welding around the edge of the bolt *he says confidently ::)
-
now then, with a tap and die set, you could put a reverse thread on the stub perhaps..... plus gas it, heat it, then get neanderthal with it ,
-
I still have nightmares about this job. Head was off and on the bench with only one stud to drill out. Never done this before so was being extra careful. However the inevitable happened and the 'eaziout' snapped in the hole. Apparently the hole I drilled out in the stud was too big, so when the eaziout was screwed in it expanded the stud and wedged it hard against the thread. With the amount of torque I was giving it the eaziout eventually snapped:
From this:
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/rjlangton/Studbroke.jpg)
So off the head went to the professionals who milled around the broken stud to dig it out, then built up the head with weld before redrilling, tapping and installing a brand new stud. They also gave the head a chemical clean and fitted new stem all seals for me - charged £70.
To this:
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/rjlangton/Studfixed.jpg)
-
Thanks, luckily for me its the 4 exhaust studs post cat, where the actual exhaust joins.
I've ordered some plug gas, see what it does. Hoping to weld a nut onto the stud.
Maybe then add a little heat to the mix, I think this gas:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831)
Works with this:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471)
But does not actually state that :-\
-
I have a blowtorch.
I think the cripple has a plan A as well ;)
-
Probably sounds obvious, but dont forget to make very sure your LPG/petrol lines are well protected from any heat source. ;)
-
Thanks, luckily for me its the 4 exhaust studs post cat, where the actual exhaust joins.
I've ordered some plug gas, see what it does. Hoping to weld a nut onto the stud.
Maybe then add a little heat to the mix, I think this gas:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831)
Works with this:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471)
But does not actually state that :-\
I doubt you'll get enough heat in to achieve anything worth while with that. You need to get the bit where the stud is broken HOT, not just warm - which the butane canister will do. You'd be better off going to ATS/exhaust fast fit place when it's not busy & asking nicely for them to use their oxy/acetylene to heat it up properly
-
Thanks, luckily for me its the 4 exhaust studs post cat, where the actual exhaust joins.
I've ordered some plug gas, see what it does. Hoping to weld a nut onto the stud.
Maybe then add a little heat to the mix, I think this gas:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831)
Works with this:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471)
But does not actually state that :-\
I doubt you'll get enough heat in to achieve anything worth while with that. You need to get the bit where the stud is broken HOT, not just warm - which the butane canister will do. You'd be better off going to ATS/exhaust fast fit place when it's not busy & asking nicely for them to use their oxy/acetylene to heat it up properly
Thanks Andy :y
Part of the problem is said car has no MOT or tax or insurance, with the exhaust off I'm going to draw attention to myself, although ATS is only 1/2 mile away.
I'll still need to weld on a nut, so I'll that & plug gas a whirl first. :) :y
-
Probably sounds obvious, but dont forget to make very sure your LPG/petrol lines are well protected from any heat source. ;)
Petrol yup, good point will make sure its all clear.
Said car does not have LPG...... yet :)
-
Tunnie, I'm curious what happened , could you take tem out ?
-
Tunnie, I'm curious what happened , could you take tem out ?
Not going to attack this until at least this weekend, maybe longer :(
Working two jobs at the moment, mega busy :(
-
Tunnie, I'm curious what happened , could you take tem out ?
Not going to attack this until at least this weekend, maybe longer :(
Working two jobs at the moment, mega busy :(
ok.. good luck Tunnie :y
ps: dont forget to tap it for some time..(before welding)
-
If you go down the electric welder route don't forget to disconnect the battery and just to be safe unplug
the alternator
-
How about using a mole grip as well as a welded-on nut, if you have enough stud protruding. I sheared a wheel stud which had been put on with the ludicrous torque beloved by those tyre places. I tried an extractor on it but was obviously going to snap it if I continued, so I used the leverage of both a mole wrench and the extactor at the same time, which worked. Make sure the grips are new or file the teeth sharp.
-
If you're 'just' going to try heat and welding a nut on.. have you thought about trying a set of roller stud extractors? (e.g. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_530659_langId_-1_categoryId_165572 )
Assuming there's enough length to bite on, I've had some success with those.
-
I've got a set of extractors kindly offered to me & on their way :y
So plan is plusgas + heat + extractor + praying ;D
Tony - Battery off :y
Ewan - Hoping these extractors will do the job, never have much luck with mole grips
-
Tunnie, if you have enough thread left on them, your earlier idea from youtube using two nuts locked together on the broken stud is still worth trying first, although you will probably need a die to clean the thread where the bolt head sheared to get the nuts on. If you can do this, then I agree with Cem, give them a technical tap to help free up the stiction. Also remember that heating up the stud, and not quenching it, will anneal (soften) the metal of the exposed portion of stud. Ideally, you would heat the mounting and freeze the stud, as in engineering use for interference fits.
I'm full of unhelpful ideas like this, just contact me for more. ::) ::) ::)
Good luck. :y :y :y
-
That's a very clear point that you have to remember... You want to heat the flange where the stud goes through and try to heat the stud as little as possible ;)
-
Thanks gents :y
-
I have seen heat applied to studs which was then cooled by spraying wd40 so that it would be sucked into the gap between the face and the bolt. It worked a treat, if you have enough stud left try that and then with a set of mole-grips try and get them out.
-
Tunnie, if you are not handy/experienced in welding, imo its better you ask for a close welder around you.. and bring him .. :-\
-
I have seen heat applied to studs which was then cooled by spraying wd40 so that it would be sucked into the gap between the face and the bolt. It worked a treat, if you have enough stud left try that and then with a set of mole-grips try and get them out.
Another good idea, ta. Will try that :y
Tunnie, if you are not handy/experienced in welding, imo its better you ask for a close welder around you.. and bring him .. :-\
Fatty admin would be the best, but I've seen his welding attempts :-X ;D
Not that I could do any better mind!
-
Never use an extractor, if the bolt has not come out using the standard techniqies of heat, penetrant and grips etc then its stuck.
All an extractor will do is result in a broekn piece of hardened steel in the bolt!
Drill them out.
-
I presume Tunnie is planning on using a roller extractor (as the one I linked to) - which is incapable of leaving anything stuck in the stud ;)
Though I've tried (and failed) to use one of those reverse threaded extractors, the kind of which you speak, and done precisely that - ended up with the sheared off hardened extractor wedged in the remains of the bolt. Expensive mistake..
-
I'm a tad confused, an extractor, is what I thought to be like a "magic socket" - Something that will dig into the bolt, it will wreck the end of the stud its on, but that does not matter? :-\
Use heat/oils to help break seal, then magic socket will dig in and grip as there is not head to the bolt any more.
You saying the extractor would break? Set I have on their way is a proper set :-\
-
There are two kinds of extractors for studs;
One is like a big socket and has a set of eccentric rollers inside that tighten on the stud as you apply torque. You can break them (I have done!) but all that happens is the little eccentric rollers fall out and you need to get a new one..
The other is like a reverse threaded screw, you drill a pilot hole in the stud and then screw the extractor in, the idea being that as you screw it in tighter it starts to unscrew the stud/bolt.
Type 1 is the top, here (bottom is a bolt remover - those are great, too): http://www.uktools.com/images/cats/stud-extractors.jpg
Type 2 is this: http://peugeot.mainspot.net/tips/tools_02.jpg
-
Ahhh that explains it. Cheers :y
Type 1 i've used before with success, I also understand that is the type of set on its way to me. :)
-
Ditto - the second type is the kind that leads to much pain (when it shears off and your knuckles go flying toward the nearest bit of jagged metal), heartache (when you realise you're now completely screwed) and misery (when you have to pay to have it drilled out by an engineering shop).. ;D
-
I can tell you now from bitter experience on this particular problem, your only method that will get them out is drilling.
If you get heat on them, penetrant, extractors etc, you might shift one, or at most two.
Over the years I have tried everything and had to do this to steam locos, Omegas the lot, the only truely foolproof method I have found is spark errosion and you realy dont want to go down that path!
Either way, your going to be drilling. :y
-
I know an engineering shop in Poole that does spark erosion at a decent price (see earlier post about pain, heartache and misery..) ;D
-
There's a place in Aldershot that does it as well but I think you need to define reasonable when it comes to spark errosion ;D ;D
-
I have nightmares of drilling them on fattys MV6, what did not help was when a drill bit snapped. Made drilling even harder :'(
-
A couple of hours work with decent drill bits. Get some bits and get on with it Tunnie. ::) :D ;D
-
There's a place in Aldershot that does it as well but I think you need to define reasonable when it comes to spark errosion ;D ;D
True.. I think it cost me £50 to get one stud eroded and the other removed, along with a stern warning to "not bother with those ... extractors and just bring it to us next time" ;D
-
I know an engineering shop in Poole that does spark erosion at a decent price (see earlier post about pain, heartache and misery..) ;D
I have access to a spark erroded, not a pleasent thing to use and not that quick either!
-
IME; good quality HSS (or cobalt) drill bits and take your time Tun. ;)
Then re-tap the threads! :y
-
There are two kinds of extractors for studs;
.....
there is actually a third ;)
(http://www.ploughmyfield.com/images/2008_09_22/BritoolStudExtractor.jpg)
-
There are two kinds of extractors for studs;
.....
there is actually a third ;)
(http://www.ploughmyfield.com/images/2008_09_22/BritoolStudExtractor.jpg)
I forgot about those :-X Although they work much the same as 'type 1' with an eccentric roller. Not tried those, though - do they work alright?
(There's another kind, too - looks like a drill chuck that you tighten down onto the stud.. can't imagine they work all that well, though!)
-
....
I forgot about those :-X Although they work much the same as 'type 1' with an eccentric roller. Not tried those, though - do they work alright? ..........
Never tried one, though there was one in the shift cupboard where I use d to work. I've a set of the eccentric roller type that've been used a hand full of times, where possible I'll generally use Vice Grips. I've only been successful a hand full of times with Eazi-out type, as said, it's all too easy to end up with a snapped Eazi-out in the stud you're trying to remove.
-
:o ???
sparks, melting drilling..phew.. I see everyone already accept it wont come out..
slow down me thinks..let him do step by step.. :y
-
I've got to get home and try the basics first! Won't be back home until Sunday ;D
-
Tunnie, do what you do but dont break high quality steel or any material in the hole.. :y
-
Tunnie, do what you do but dont break high quality steel or any material in the hole.. :y
and if you try drilling let someone spray some oil to cool the drill bit at the same time or it can easly break!
-
Tunnie, you will have access to a decent quality roller extractor. If you break the rollers it's got a lifetime guarantee so don't worry ;)
As said, I doubt you'll be lucky enough to get all of them out with it and will probably end up drilling, but I do have a 90% success rate with them in the limited use they've had :y
As said, plusgas, heat and perseverance should see the drilling route reduced to the minimum possible... If these don't grip it enough to get it out then it's unlikely anything else will ::)
Although you may well have to get someone a little more manly to try for you as they will probably need a fair bit of grunt :-X ::)
-
Tunnie, you will have access to a decent quality roller extractor. If you break the rollers it's got a lifetime guarantee so don't worry ;)
As said, I doubt you'll be lucky enough to get all of them out with it and will probably end up drilling, but I do have a 90% success rate with them in the limited use they've had :y
As said, plusgas, heat and perseverance should see the drilling route reduced to the minimum possible... If these don't grip it enough to get it out then it's unlikely anything else will ::)
Although you may well have to get someone a little more manly to try for you as they will probably need a fair bit of grunt :-X ::)
I like those odds :y
I've surprised myself lately, jobs I normally have to ask for fatty to help done all on my own :o
-
I to have a high percentage succes rate with the roller type grips as shown, sadly its these bolts on the V6 exhausts bringing my average down!
-
I to have a high percentage succes rate with the roller type grips as shown, sadly its these bolts on the V6 exhausts bringing my average down!
Yeah... I think all the failures have been exhaust bolts that had snapped (not always on an Omega though ::))
It has 2 chances and, at the end of the day, he has nothing to lose by trying it and everything to gain.
With heat, plenty of soaking and some shocking they will hopefully start moving
-
I to have a high percentage succes rate with the roller type grips as shown, sadly its these bolts on the V6 exhausts bringing my average down!
;D :y
-
There are two kinds of extractors for studs;
.....
there is actually a third ;)
(http://www.ploughmyfield.com/images/2008_09_22/BritoolStudExtractor.jpg)
GOOD PIECE OF KIT!! had mine over 25years and it is very very successful at removing broken studs
" IF"
You can get onto it straight and hold it there whist undoing it I like them cos you can move it a fraction one way then reverse and little the other way and gradually work it loose, biggest problem with it is the sheer size of gap you need to get it on!!
-
Yes, I have one to and you also need quite a lot of stud to get it on, I also have one with the cam on the bottom which supports less stud but twists easier.
In my experience, if the heat etc has not worked then they just sheear off, I suspect it will have had an exhaust in the past and had cheapo zinc pas bolts fitted.
-
No room for a stud exractor ime. Too close to the pipework. :-\ it will just chew the stud anyway as it's seized already.
Just drill the bugger. Don't need to go all the way though. Remains will come loose long before. But if you do bugger the thread on the cat, use a smaller nut and bolt through the hole instead.
-
No room for a stud exractor ime. Too close to the pipework. :-\ it will just chew the stud anyway as it's seized already.
Just drill the bugger. Don't need to go all the way though. Remains will come loose long before. But if you do bugger the thread on the cat, use a smaller nut and bolt through the hole instead.
Should be able to get the roller extractor I'm lending him over... Not much bigger than a decent impact socket :y
The fact the tension has been removed and that (I assume) it's been well and truly soaked in Plusgas for a week or more may work in his favour. At the end of the day, there's too much "shaft" there to start drilling straight away really so he may as well try ;)
Even if he gets one out with the extractor, that's a good time saved with the drill ::)
-
No room for a stud exractor ime. Too close to the pipework. :-\ it will just chew the stud anyway as it's seized already.
Just drill the bugger. Don't need to go all the way though. Remains will come loose long before. But if you do bugger the thread on the cat, use a smaller nut and bolt through the hole instead.
Should be able to get the roller extractor I'm lending him over... Not much bigger than a decent impact socket :y
The fact the tension has been removed and that (I assume) it's been well and truly soaked in Plusgas for a week or more may work in his favour. At the end of the day, there's too much "shaft" there to start drilling straight away really so he may as well try ;)
Even if he gets one out with the extractor, that's a good time saved with the drill ::)
Not a hope. Waist of time. Angle grind the excess off and drill the rest. Will take two or three cobalt bits but it's the only way if it's sheared off already. The threads will have dragged the rusty end in, that's why it's sheared.
Although I do have a mental image of a pair of useless student legs and a length of flex spinning around "wallace and grommet" style under a jacked up omega ;D
-
No room for a stud exractor ime. Too close to the pipework. :-\ it will just chew the stud anyway as it's seized already.
Just drill the bugger. Don't need to go all the way though. Remains will come loose long before. But if you do bugger the thread on the cat, use a smaller nut and bolt through the hole instead.
Should be able to get the roller extractor I'm lending him over... Not much bigger than a decent impact socket :y
The fact the tension has been removed and that (I assume) it's been well and truly soaked in Plusgas for a week or more may work in his favour. At the end of the day, there's too much "shaft" there to start drilling straight away really so he may as well try ;)
Even if he gets one out with the extractor, that's a good time saved with the drill ::)
Not a hope. Waist of time. Angle grind the excess off and drill the rest. Will take two or three cobalt bits but it's the only way if it's sheared off already. The threads will have dragged the rusty end in, that's why it's sheared.
Although I do have a mental image of a pair of useless student legs and a length of flex spinning around "wallace and grommet" style under a jacked up omega ;D
The studs hardly moved before they sheared! :'(
I'm getting confused (easily done!) too many people on this thread with same avatar! ;D
-
The studs wont have moved at all before they sheared.
-
Agreed... I'll be amazed if they've moved at all.
You have nothing to lose by trying the heat, plus gas, shock, extractor method other than a little time.
I'll be amazed if it gets them all out but may save you drilling at least one ;)
At the end of the day, you haven't got to go out and buy the roller extractor so it's not costing you anything to try it :y If you were going to buy the tool I'd say not to bother ;)
-
Agreed... I'll be amazed if they've moved at all.
You have nothing to lose by trying the heat, plus gas, shock, extractor method other than a little time.
I'll be amazed if it gets them all out but may save you drilling at least one ;)
At the end of the day, you haven't got to go out and buy the roller extractor so it's not costing you anything to try it :y If you were going to buy the tool I'd say not to bother ;)
Very true, thanks again for letting me borrow them :y
-
Agreed... I'll be amazed if they've moved at all.
You have nothing to lose by trying the heat, plus gas, shock, extractor method other than a little time.
I'll be amazed if it gets them all out but may save you drilling at least one ;)
At the end of the day, you haven't got to go out and buy the roller extractor so it's not costing you anything to try it :y If you were going to buy the tool I'd say not to bother ;)
Very true, thanks again for letting me borrow them :y
Not a problem... They're just sat in my tool box gathering dust at the moment ::)
Hopefully (sort of) I'll need to use them over the winter as a group of us have just taken on a unit for the "Playthings" so I've got somewhere indoors to start stripping the mini down :y But that all depends on time with the new business so :-\ :-\
-
I've done quite a few now. Grind the broken stud flush, use a centre punch and take your time drilling, don't go putting all your weight behind the drill and start off with a smaller drill bit and work your way up ;)