Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 23 October 2011, 15:05:03
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On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.
I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.
130k on clock.
Live with it?
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It's always annoying when it's your own car isn't it? I suppose a good strip down, new lifters and a check of the oil supply would cure it, but is it worth doing?
My 2.6 sounds naff, even when warm...so I'll get it sorted, but I think when it's your own car we can always be over sensitive.
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you know where I am if you want me to do it Josh :)
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Mine seems to be the same :( :(
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Worth checking the pickup strainer?
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Worth checking the pickup strainer?
Definitely on "the list" for mine, although it goes instantly. Perhaps each lifter clicks twice then fine
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My 3.0 with 77k is exactly the same. TBH I only tend to use my car a couple of times a week - usually @ the weekend. But if I do use it, say, the following day it's usually ok from cold.
I was thinking about using Wynn's lifter treatment, but am already on my 4th oil change in the 2,000 miles that I've owned the car, so hopefully there isn't much more to be gained from further more frequent changes -although will continue to get them done every 6 months or so,
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It takes a couple of seconds for oil pressure to build after a cold start, so any lifters that have deflated will take a few seconds to quieten. I wouldn't worry about it, TBH.
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On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.
I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.
130k on clock.
Live with it?
Cold oil = viscous oil
Viscous oil puts a massive strain on the oil pump. If the oil has drained out of the system it takes much longer for the oil pump to prime and refill the oil-ways (and valve lifters).
VX sell 5w-30 fully synthetic oil at an extremely reasonable price on trade club. I switched to using it in my last car when I started worrying about the time it was taking to quieten after a winter cold start. That was at around 150,000 miles and it was still running sweetly when I got rid of it at 200,000.
I don't understand the OOF fixation on using 10w-40. It is like treacle when cold and only saves about £2 each oil change. :-\
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On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.
I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.
130k on clock.
Live with it?
Cold oil = viscous oil
Viscous oil puts a massive strain on the oil pump. If the oil has drained out of the system it takes much longer for the oil pump to prime and refill the oil-ways (and valve lifters).
VX sell 5w-30 fully synthetic oil at an extremely reasonable price on trade club. I switched to using it in my last car when I started worrying about the time it was taking to quieten after a winter cold start. That was at around 150,000 miles and it was still running sweetly when I got rid of it at 200,000.
I don't understand the OOF fixation on using 10w-40. It is like treacle when cold and only saves about £2 each oil change. :-\
£6-7 on a v6, around £8 on TD, at published TC prices ;)
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Even so.. drink a couple of pints less or have one course less at the curry house and you've covered the difference ;)
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So is the consensus on high milers to use 5w-30 ??
What is the true price then for 4 for 3 on T/C for 5w-30 then,as I am fast approaching 200k and need to stock up on some oil an filters in the next week or so. :y
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Even so.. drink a couple of pints less or have one course less at the curry house and you've covered the difference ;)
Or use gm semi, which causes me no issues whatsoever on 180k 3.0, 60k 3.2, 110k K series, 41k Kawasaki and a clapped out lawnmower ;)
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So is the consensus on high milers to use 5w-30 ??
What is the true price then for 4 for 3 on T/C for 5w-30 then,as I am fast approaching 200k and need to stock up on some oil an filters in the next week or so. :y
just over £58+VAT
Semi = £38+VAT
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Even so.. drink a couple of pints less or have one course less at the curry house and you've covered the difference ;)
Or use gm semi, which causes me no issues whatsoever on 180k 3.0, 60k 3.2, 110k K series, 41k Kawasaki and a clapped out lawnmower ;)
Did you ever work out what caused the lubrication failure on the 'Golden Nugget'?
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Even so.. drink a couple of pints less or have one course less at the curry house and you've covered the difference ;)
Or use gm semi, which causes me no issues whatsoever on 180k 3.0, 60k 3.2, 110k K series, 41k Kawasaki and a clapped out lawnmower ;)
Did you ever work out what caused the lubrication failure on the 'Golden Nugget'?
The organic interface between the seat and the "digital" accelerator probably ::)
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Even so.. drink a couple of pints less or have one course less at the curry house and you've covered the difference ;)
Or use gm semi, which causes me no issues whatsoever on 180k 3.0, 60k 3.2, 110k K series, 41k Kawasaki and a clapped out lawnmower ;)
Did you ever work out what caused the lubrication failure on the 'Golden Nugget'?
Oh, yes, thanks for reminding me, semi was great in 120k 2.5 Nugget, 140k Tractor, 90k 2.5 TB1 ::)
No reason to suspect lubrication failure on Goldie. None whatsoever. And it let go when any oil would be thin.
But you use what works for you :y At 50% more, I see no need to use the expensive stuff, and I know the bike - wet clutch=fussy - works well on GM semi, thats what I stick to for now :y
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My bike also runs on GM 10/40 semi. According to MarkDTM it has no friction modifiers which is what knackers wet clutches.
Engine often revved to over 12000 rpm and always runs as sweet as a nut. :y
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On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.
I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.
130k on clock.
Live with it?
Cold oil = viscous oil
Viscous oil puts a massive strain on the oil pump. If the oil has drained out of the system it takes much longer for the oil pump to prime and refill the oil-ways (and valve lifters).
VX sell 5w-30 fully synthetic oil at an extremely reasonable price on trade club. I switched to using it in my last car when I started worrying about the time it was taking to quieten after a winter cold start. That was at around 150,000 miles and it was still running sweetly when I got rid of it at 200,000.
I don't understand the OOF fixation on using 10w-40. It is like treacle when cold and only saves about £2 each oil change. :-\
I briefly ran my 2.6 with Mobil 1 Ow/40. No problems whatsoever with cold starting as this oil is piss thin. I know that some forum members think this oil is unsuitable for the V6 Omega.
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On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.
I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.
130k on clock.
Live with it?
Cold oil = viscous oil
Viscous oil puts a massive strain on the oil pump. If the oil has drained out of the system it takes much longer for the oil pump to prime and refill the oil-ways (and valve lifters).
VX sell 5w-30 fully synthetic oil at an extremely reasonable price on trade club. I switched to using it in my last car when I started worrying about the time it was taking to quieten after a winter cold start. That was at around 150,000 miles and it was still running sweetly when I got rid of it at 200,000.
I don't understand the OOF fixation on using 10w-40. It is like treacle when cold and only saves about £2 each oil change. :-\
I briefly ran my 2.6 with Mobil 1 Ow/40. No problems whatsoever with cold starting as this oil is piss thin. I know that some forum members think this oil is unsuitable for the V6 Omega.
My personal opinion:
Unsuitable: No
OTT: Definately
:y
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On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.
I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.
130k on clock.
Live with it?
Cold oil = viscous oil
Viscous oil puts a massive strain on the oil pump. If the oil has drained out of the system it takes much longer for the oil pump to prime and refill the oil-ways (and valve lifters).
VX sell 5w-30 fully synthetic oil at an extremely reasonable price on trade club. I switched to using it in my last car when I started worrying about the time it was taking to quieten after a winter cold start. That was at around 150,000 miles and it was still running sweetly when I got rid of it at 200,000.
I don't understand the OOF fixation on using 10w-40. It is like treacle when cold and only saves about £2 each oil change. :-\
I briefly ran my 2.6 with Mobil 1 Ow/40. No problems whatsoever with cold starting as this oil is piss thin. I know that some forum members think this oil is unsuitable for the V6 Omega.
My personal opinion:
Unsuitable: No
OTT: Definately
:y
You're probably correct Mr TB... :y. The Knuckle draggers at Kwik Fit did the change for me on that occasion. £44.95 with a new filter. It is currently running like a swiss watch on GM 10w/40 semi. :y :y :y