Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tunnie on 28 October 2011, 13:02:57
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Do you need to remove the disc & calipers? :-\
Guide says you do....
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90658.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90658.0)
Book of 'dangle berries' has a whole 4 points for describing removal ::), just basically, unscrew & remove pinch bolt, pull down to release, then unscew vertical & horizontal front mounting bolts?
Never done front wishbones before :-[
Camber is pi$$ed anyway, so I can remove the bolts to the strut to allow the arm to drop. Leave all brake related items untouched?
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ok, started to remove the pinch bolt, now i see why the bracket to the brake caliper needs to come out ::)
Question is, can I get away with just removing the bottom bolt to the bracket?
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/803897/Omega/TheChav/Photo%2028-10-2011%2014%2005%2010.jpg)
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I remove the calliper and tie it up out of the way and the bracket (for convenience), then crack on.
It's easier with a second person when it comes to the vertical bolts as you can feed an extension bar down from the top of the engine bay and they can hold it. You can do the same and wedge the bar somewhere to stop it spinning when you work from below ;)
Don't be scared to use some welly when getting the old one out ;)
On re-fitting, I tend to give the rear opening (for the vertical bush) a bit of expanding with a lever bar and a smear on the faces of the vertical bush metal to help it slide in :y
If you get really stuck, give me a ring and I'll try and talk you through it ;)
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ok, started to remove the pinch bolt, now i see why the bracket to the brake caliper needs to come out ::)
Question is, can I get away with just removing the bottom bolt to the bracket?
Probably, but for the sake of a minute I take the bracket off ;)
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I would get the caliper right out of the way. :y
Remember the Haynes manual translation. "pull down to release" = "find a rather big hammer and a crowbar and beat seven shades..." ;)
I find a bit of plus gas around the pin, wedge a screwdriver into the slotted part of the upright to ease it open a little, get a crowbar between the wishbone and upright, apply some force then lump the side of the upright, or the crowbar, with a hammer to shock it loose.
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As above ^^^^
Must admit, if I'm replacing them completely (so new ball joints) I tend to use a fork splitter if they won't shock out within a few whacks. But that's just me and because I've got a good quality set ;)
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Don't have a crowbar :(
But i have plus gas :D
Usually when removing caliper, i take the pads out (un do 13mm at the bottom) lift up and pull out pads.
Can all that say in place? Just remove the backet bolts and tie it all up out of the way?
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Can all that say in place? Just remove the backet bolts and tie it all up out of the way?
I can't remember, but in the time it took you to post that you could have undone the 4 bolts and removed the whole lot. ;)
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It takes less than 5 minutes... Remove the calliper completely, then remove the bracket... It'll be a lot easier :y
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Yeah seeing thats best way... thanks chaps, its all progressing. Slowly! ;D
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ok so i'm at the stage of smashing hell out of it, not moving. Plusgas in the pin area, i don't have a crow bar, smashing the right hand side (as you look at the wishbone) its not moving :(
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/803897/Omega/TheChav/Photo%2028-10-2011%2014%2042%2035.jpg)
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Big screwdriver or chisel into the opening where the pinch bolt went through to open it out a little ;)
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little bugger still won't move.... the pin dropped a bit, keep bashing and it popped back up again! ???
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/803897/Omega/TheChav/Photo%2028-10-2011%2015%2011%2042.jpg)
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little bugger still won't move.... the pin dropped a bit, keep bashing and it popped back up again! ???
At least it's loose, then. You just need to persevere. Something to lever the wishbone away from the upright will help a lot. Doesn't need to be a crowbar. Jack handle? Breaker bar? See if you can find something...
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little bugger still won't move.... the pin dropped a bit, keep bashing and it popped back up again! ???
......
Have you removed the bolts from the rear bushes? I removed them from the Senator's wishbones first, that way the bottom ball joint can come out vertically instead of a slight arc. Isn't there room to insert a long punch in the top & hit the pin directly from on top? It was nearly 10 years ago when I did the Senators & paid someone else to do the Omega's w/bones. ::)
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right thinking about how angry i get at the tax man did the trick, its off pinch bolt! :D
I expected it to fold down though, not spring back up ???
So got my mini-jack supporting disc right now, so track rod end does not take all the weight.
I removed the front horizontal bolt, piece of cake! Even found some mega extender bars, located the vertical bolt from engine bay, by the engine mount, but how on earth being on your own do you hold the bottom nut while un-doing it from engine-bay area? :-\
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right thinking about how angry i get at the tax man did the trick, its off pinch bolt! :D
I expected it to fold down though, not spring back up ???
So got my mini-jack supporting disc right now, so track rod end does not take all the weight.
I removed the front horizontal bolt, piece of cake! Even found some mega extender bars, located the vertical bolt from engine bay, by the engine mount, but how on earth being on your own do you hold the bottom nut while un-doing it from engine-bay area? :-\
Do it the other way around... Hold the top (it can be wedged ;)) and undo from underneath ;)
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right thinking about how angry i get at the tax man did the trick, its off pinch bolt! :D
I expected it to fold down though, not spring back up ???
So got my mini-jack supporting disc right now, so track rod end does not take all the weight.
I removed the front horizontal bolt, piece of cake! Even found some mega extender bars, located the vertical bolt from engine bay, by the engine mount, but how on earth being on your own do you hold the bottom nut while un-doing it from engine-bay area? :-\
Do it the other way around... Hold the top (it can be wedged ;)) and undo from underneath ;)
**goes to try what he should have thought of himself ::)
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ok so thats out, but will wishbone just pull out like book says? Feking thing.
All bolts are out, but bloody thing won't be pulled out.
What a crappy job, fights you all way, think i'll pay someone to do passenger side!
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ok so thats out, but will wishbone just pull out like book says? Feking thing.
All bolts are out, but bloody thing won't be pulled out.
What a crappy job, fights you all way, think i'll pay someone to do passenger side!
Read my first post again ::) ::)
Don't be scared to get a bit violent with it... It will go ;) ;)
FWIW, I think the passenger side is easier normally and now you've done one you'll find it easier :y
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i give up, where is that trailer to take it into town? ::)
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Best weapon of choice I have allways used on wishbones is a decent size crow bar :y
Decent amount of leverage and the blade is ideal for open up gaps ;D
Take a trip to DIY shop and get one then give the wishbone some seroius wedging and it will come out :y
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i give up, where is that trailer to take it into town? ::)
Man up and get sammy on it (if you can lift him) ;D ;D ;D
Where's it stuck? Rear bush?
To give yourself a bit more room to move the suspension leg you can turn the steering onto the appropriate lock... Full left when doing driver's side ;)
May be worth spraying a little plus gas in around the rear bush ;) You might be able to get a big lever (screwdriver in your case) above and below the bush to "Expand" the mounting point a little. Can also try getting a screwdriver into the metal sleeve from underneath and wiggle it... You're just having issues breaking the seal by the sound of it ;) They're probably a little corroded ;)
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Should have added "I think" after full left... You'll see ;)
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new wishbone is in, but spent last half hour trying to get it to line up on the rear vertical bolt. Still no joy
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Mark, have you got the entire front of the car lifted - EG both wheels?
You'll be on a hiding to nothing if you're jacking one side at a time.. . :y
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as its in garage, only one side is jacket.
As below, just cannot get rear bolt to line up to drop it in from engine bay.
Can't see how other side jacked would make difference :-\
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as its in garage, only one side is jacket.
As below, just cannot get rear bolt to line up to drop it in from engine bay.
Can't see how other side jacked would make difference :-\
I had a feeling you'd only have one side raised... ::)
It's to do with tension on the anti-roll bar - I am almost certain the job is only possible with all the weight off both wheels?
(someone please confirm!) :y
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I've done it both ways... Front on stands and one side lifted at a time. Personally I find it easier with only one side up at a time ;)
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I've done it both ways... Front on stands and one side lifted at a time. Personally I find it easier with only one side up at a time ;)
Fair play - I stand corrected!
I just recall on one car I did this way, (one side at a time) - I could NOT get the drivers side one to go in, until the passenger wheel was also raised - and when I raised the passenger wheel, it went in straight away!
Must be honest, it's not a job I love...
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its a crap job, its made the "sod it pay someone" list.
Given up for today, start fresh tomorrow
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its a crap job, its made the "sod it pay someone" list.
Given up for today, start fresh tomorrow
Persevere... First time for you so it'll be a PITA. I can do them in under 2 hours from getting the first tool out to putting the last one away, including tea and bacon butties ;)
Practice makes perfect ::) ::)
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as its in garage, only one side is jacket.
As below, just cannot get rear bolt to line up to drop it in from engine bay.
Can't see how other side jacked would make difference :-\
I had a feeling you'd only have one side raised... ::)
It's to do with tension on the anti-roll bar - I am almost certain the job is only possible with all the weight off both wheels?
(someone please confirm!) :y
Dead right ............
Jack-up/support BOTH sides, then disconnect BOTH drop-links.
Job should then be a good 'un! :y
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I changed one side at a time on my old Mv6...
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As said, I do them one at a time and I'm fairly sure that the Master does too.
Each to their own though :y :y
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To centralise the bush so you can get the bolt in you need to push something up from below into the central sleeve of the bush and lever it into position, IMHO. Much easier if you've got it high enough that you can look up through the bolt hole and check the alignment.
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was thinking that, i can put a screw drive up through it, need to do that while wiggling the bolt from above.
Such crap job!
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With your gadget hands you should be able to get the bolt in correctly from underneath while wiggling the screwdriver ;) ;D
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With your gadget hands you should be able to get the bolt in correctly from underneath while wiggling the screwdriver ;) ;D
Can easily reach & put bolt in top down from below, tried but was being a pig, will just have to re-try tomorrow.
Passenger side, I'm paying someone for that! Prob WIM as I need a full setup anyway....
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Just do it yourself ;) ;)
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Just do it yourself ;) ;)
Shit job, can't be bothered.
Will book in for an MOT near WIM, get full setup & wishbone changed, then MOT it.
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Just do it yourself ;) ;)
Shit job, can't be bothered.
Will book in for an MOT near WIM, get full setup & wishbone changed, then MOT it.
Lightweight ::) ::)
Unfortunately I can't get down there for a while an unknown period of time otherwise I'd have done it for you ;)
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Thanks, never liked working on front suspension, Father T has had wishbones done at WIM, just charged 45 mins labour each side.
Prob be a few weeks anyway before its MOT'd anyway
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Once you get used to it they aren't that hard to do TBH, but you're fighting a losing battle really without the correct tools.
I wouldn't want to do a set without my 3' pry bar ;) ;)
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i just have a large screwdriver :(
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I have used crowbars, levers, jack handles, loads of stuff - the best bit of kit is a hefty iron bar, at least three foot of leverage. If you can safely jack up the strut, it does make life easier too. :y
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I've done this twice and can't recall which, but one side is noticeably easier than the other. Worst problem I came across doing the job was when I dropped one of the rear bolts inside the subframe itself, down one of the helpfully placed cut outs in the frame. Had to use a powerful magnetic pick up and all sorts of bits of wire etc to fish it out. Leaving it in there would have been a complete no-no!
I don't recall taking off the calipers and mounting brackets either. Nice thick cold chisel between the 'lugs' of the ball joint pinch bolt freed that easily and then a few minutes wrestling and wrangling with the 'bones to get them free.
The key to lining up the shaft in the rear bush is a dirty great screwdriver from below, levering it straight until it lines up.
Oh and the main thing is not to tighten up the bolts to torque until the car is back resting on its wheels ... a sure way to destroy the bushes within a few thousand miles ....
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little bugger still won't move.... the pin dropped a bit, keep bashing and it popped back up again! ???
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/803897/Omega/TheChav/Photo%2028-10-2011%2015%2011%2042.jpg)
Call that a hammer mate - you need a big one ;)
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Why is the head held on with gaffer tape ? ;D ;D ;D
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As I'm sure you will be getting it WIMed after just disconnect the hub from the shock after you've removed the bottom pin and tie it out of the way and you'll find the job a 100X easier. The vertical bush lines up because the arm can sit level, you can tighten the front bolt with the car in the air(you need to set the arm to the correct level before tightening) you don't struggle trying to hold the arm down to get the bottom pin in.
The order I do them is
Remove calliper and carrier (not always necessary)
Remove pinch bolt and lever arm out of hub
Remove hub assembly and secure up out of the way
Undo wishbone bolts and remove wishbone
Replace wishbone and bolts(this is where I tightened both bolts just raise the arm to correct position) I WOULD RECOMMEND REDOING THE BOLTS WHILST ON A RAMP ECT
Replace hub bottom pin first (and pinch bolt)
Reattach hub to shock
Replace calliper.(if removed)
Personally I find this way a lot easier but I'm not saying its for everyone.
HTH
lee
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Just for future referrence ;) :y is it necessary to replace all 3 bolts per side when you change wishbones on Omegas
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why do I get the feeling I've wasted my breath ::)
did you remove the steering knuckle with the wishbone? Camber screwed anyway.
you aren't likely to get much joy with driving 50 miles to mot station in order to try to bypass laws of the land.
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Guys, the struts have been pinched off this car, and then thrown back together with any old struts to store it while T decided what to do with suspension etc.
So the camber setting is lost basically.
Re fitting is an awfull lot easier with knuckle dis connected from strut. Fit wb, place knuckle on ball joint pin, the fit strut to knuckle bottom bolt first.
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Ps, then follow the guide on preserving camber, using 13mil socket method. Etc...
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I have a feeling my set will be next!
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And place your ramps under the wheels to torque the bolts wheels loaded. Your jack is man in enough, even....... No never mind. ;)
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You need to get the wishbone as level as possible to get the rear bolt to line up ;)
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its all stripped down, strut disconnected, hub sitting on spare jack, taken just before i removed old one:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/803897/Omega/TheChav/Photo%2028-10-2011%2015%2032%2037.jpg)
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gotta fix one of bro's printers, would go on a sat, esp in build up before xmas, grrrr
hope I can do remotely, else I'll be off to Witney
after that, I should be free
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gotta fix one of bro's printers, would go on a sat, esp in build up before xmas, grrrr
hope I can do remotely, else I'll be off to Witney
after that, I should be free
Can prob wait until next time, its all tied up & on a stand. Its not going anywhere until get plastic side skirt on, or the lamba or a new battery anyway ::)
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Bro's printer fixed, tills are ringing again, so he a happy boy :D
Why have you not got a lamda :o, or sideskirt clips?
Battery - I know I lent you a perfectly servicable one ;)
If you don't get an MOT on it shortly, your welding opportunity will have passed ;). Time is tight for that.
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waiting on gayboy for the lamba, that thieving b@stard took my poly bushes though! ;D
Similar with clips....
Battery in boot of 2.2 still ::)
Can't see it being MOT'd now until mid November
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I thought I heard chrisgixer chuckle to himself "possession is nine tenths of the law" as he walked off with some gay coloured bits for his car....
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purple suspension components, they will suit him :D
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purple suspension components, they will suit him :D
He just needs a helmet to match, and a long brown coat. I reckon he'd have a new vocation. :D
http://www.sheepskullenduroriders.com/ (http://www.sheepskullenduroriders.com/)
;)
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;D mine mine mine, All mine. ;D
Lambda is on shelf at All parts slough. Pick up Monday. :)
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purple suspension components, they will suit him :D
He just needs a helmet to match, and a long brown coat. I reckon he'd have a new vocation. :D
http://www.sheepskullenduroriders.com/ (http://www.sheepskullenduroriders.com/)
;)
:o
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Be very careful jacking on the brake disc Tunnie. If you apply any jacking pressure at anything other than at right angles to the vertical plane of the brake disc, you are at severe risk of shearing the brake disc retaining screws,
as I found out the hard way, or so i've been told. ::) ::) ::)
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Yes it's only a 4 mill bolt. Although I think it's just supported ATM.
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I used to think this sounded like a fairly easy job - I was planning on doing mine (very) soon..
Now I think it sounds like the hardest job I'm ever likely to need to do on a car... ;D
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I used to think this sounded like a fairly easy job - I was planning on doing mine (very) soon..
Now I think it sounds like the hardest job I'm ever likely to need to do on a car... ;D
Nah, its easy enough, hardest part is separating lower balljoint, then researching said balljoint
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Done both sides last night, big thanks to TB :y :y :y :y
To make life lot easier it needed shock taking out as well, when I was re-fitting the new one, it kept getting in way, with it removed the wishbone went in a lot easier as it was level.
Old bushes totally, totally shot. I think its about time to MOT project chav :D :D
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Good news. Well done Wallace and Grommit. ;D
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I used to think this sounded like a fairly easy job - I was planning on doing mine (very) soon..
Now I think it sounds like the hardest job I'm ever likely to need to do on a car... ;D
Nah, its easy enough, hardest part is separating lower balljoint, then researching said balljoint
:y Must get it done soon, before I put new boots on it. But I've been saying that for yonks ;D need to do the clutch on the MR2 and put the exhaust/ECU/etc back on really so I can move it out of the way and work in the garage..
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balljoint did put up some resistance, found TB's way of disconnecting track rod end and removing whole lot, raising disc on a block of wood or something, then wack the wishbone close to the ball joint, almost came straight out.
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bah eck,all this thread about a job that would of been sorted easily as ALBS stated earlier if tunnie hadnt been tickling it with a toffee hammer ;D
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i need to go tool shopping, really need a set of ratchet spanners!
Ohh yeh and a big ass crowbar!
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You can't beat a big ol' pry bar as a tool ;) Mine have been very useful over the years - not least in getting into the garage at the new house when I moved in and found the garage door had been jammed shut.. ;D