Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tunnie on 21 November 2011, 10:02:02
-
So as some may have read & listened I have a couple of noisy lifters.
1) On a cold start, sounds fine. FatherT just borrowed it, hearing it driving off, sounded like V6 should.
2) High Idle (1.2k rpm) sounds like V6 should.
3) Its on hot idle at 500/600 rpm after a run, it sounds quite tappety. Also if you warm start it after being off for 20 mins, its also quite tappety on idle.
4) Driving around town with window open, sounds fine, great in-fact, what a V6 should sound like, picks up well. Goes like a 3.2 should.
I've put some Wynns lifter treatment in, done around 250 miles so far of mixed driving still not really made any noticeable difference.
Anything more I can do? Guess next stage is to do an oil pressure test? Is it possible oil pressure is not returning to what it should be? Whats process involved in this? What mm thread do I need?
Done some searching:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Astra-Corsa-Calibra-Frontera-Nova-Omega-Oil-Pressure-Switch-90336039-/290618734314?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43aa39f6ea#ht_1126wt_1037 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Astra-Corsa-Calibra-Frontera-Nova-Omega-Oil-Pressure-Switch-90336039-/290618734314?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43aa39f6ea#ht_1126wt_1037)
Could not appear to find a test kit :-\
-
I know you've checked strainer, so measuring oil pressure just to rule out any problems with that is a good move.
Failing that, several 250 mile oil changes and see what happens.
I had exactly the same issue in Max V6's old Elite Estate (the one you later had). In the end, I removed the lifters, and tested them individually - I found two duff ones which I replaced, and this cured it.
:y
-
Tunnie - that's just a standard oil pressure light switch, they activate at ~4psi or something pointless like that (by which time you can kiss goodbye to your engine at anything other than idle).. what you need is either a proper test kit or, much cheaper, to beg, borrow or steal a simple capillary oil pressure gauge..
Test kits: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop/Oil-Pressure-Testing-Tools
Capillary gauge: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MECHANICS-MASTER-ENGINE-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-TESTING-KIT-/120810005682?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c20d664b2#ht_2330wt_940
You may need a different adapter, but essentially just unscrew the standard pressure switch and screw in the test gauge, start the car when hot and see what it reads..
-
I know you've checked strainer, so measuring oil pressure just to rule out any problems with that is a good move.
Failing that, several 250 mile oil changes and see what happens.
I had exactly the same issue in Max V6's old Elite Estate (the one you later had). In the end, I removed the lifters, and tested them individually - I found two duff ones which I replaced, and this cured it.
:y
Yes sorry forgot to mention that, oil is staying nice and clean so far. Its on its second change in 500 miles so far.
I really, really don't want to be removing lifters :(
But i've no idea how to test oil pressure :-\
-
Tunnie - that's just a standard oil pressure light switch, they activate at ~4psi or something pointless like that (by which time you can kiss goodbye to your engine at anything other than idle).. what you need is either a proper test kit or, much cheaper, to beg, borrow or steal a simple capillary oil pressure gauge..
Test kits: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop/Oil-Pressure-Testing-Tools
Capillary gauge: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MECHANICS-MASTER-ENGINE-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-TESTING-KIT-/120810005682?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c20d664b2#ht_2330wt_940
You may need a different adapter, but essentially just unscrew the standard pressure switch and screw in the test gauge, start the car when hot and see what it reads..
Thanks :y
Yeah those proper kits look tad much, second gauges look better. Any chance anyone has one I can borrow? Rather a lot to spend on something thats only going to be used once :(
Is it possible it is pressure issue? As its been stood for a year, several lifters would have been crushed when it was turned off. I have feeling some of those have not released properly
-
Capillary gauge: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MECHANICS-MASTER-ENGINE-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-TESTING-KIT-/120810005682?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c20d664b2#ht_2330wt_940
Due to the risk of high pressure oil leaks and resulting fire/skid danger i do NOT recommend it for permanent fitment.
Nice to see someone happy to stand by their product. ;)
Hmm. oil lines behind the dashboard. I know exactly what type of "skid risk" that'll cause when it lets go. ::)
But, as a diagnostic tool, not a bad idea. I think you will probably need an adaptor to connect it to a 3.2. Not sure what the oil pressure switch thread is but most Vauxhall applications appear to be M14x1.5.
Low oil pressure would cause all of the lifters to go noisy, though. Does it sound like all of them or just 1 or 2?
-
Hmm. oil lines behind the dashboard. I know exactly what type of "skid risk" that'll cause when it lets go. ::)
Indeed - I'd never fit a capillary gauge in the car as a permanent fixture (I'm always baffled why some folks prefer them, it seems like a disaster waiting to happen, to me!), rather go for a remote sender gauge as I had on the MR2.. but as a quick diagnostic thing it's much easier to screw a capillary gauge in that'll work with no other connections, than wire an electronic gauge up :)
-
I know you've checked strainer, so measuring oil pressure just to rule out any problems with that is a good move.
Failing that, several 250 mile oil changes and see what happens.
I had exactly the same issue in Max V6's old Elite Estate (the one you later had). In the end, I removed the lifters, and tested them individually - I found two duff ones which I replaced, and this cured it.
:y
Yes sorry forgot to mention that, oil is staying nice and clean so far. Its on its second change in 500 miles so far.
I really, really don't want to be removing lifters :(
But i've no idea how to test oil pressure :-\
Lifters isn't too bad a job. I'm sure TB would give you a hand? :y
-
Its more than one lifter, maybe 2 or 3 each bank, towards the back. Couple of people have listened to it, thought the same.
Imagine if it was all of them, it would sound like a bag of nails
-
I have some concerns, the fact it gets noisey when hot hints to me more towards oil pressure falling as the engine warms up.
If the lifters were at fault it would be noisey when cold.
Are you using Vx semi snyth oil?
-
I have some concerns, the fact it gets noisey when hot hints to me more towards oil pressure falling as the engine warms up.
If the lifters were at fault it would be noisey when cold.
Are you using Vx semi snyth oil?
Yes standard GM 10/40 :y
It is very noticeable when hot :( :-\
-
Any bottom end noise?
Are the internals nice and clean at the moment?
-
No, sounds sweet.
Sump has been removed to check pick-up was clear, some very small metal partials in the pick-up mesh & in the sump, but very, very small amounts.
-
This is potentialy one of the times where I would be tempted to run a good (e.g. Forte) oil flush through
-
I`m not sure of the required measuring-range?...but, I have a (BNIB) 0-100 PSI gauge, 100mm. dia. (I think it`s a parallel 3/8" pipe-thread on the inlet): `happy to donate to forum use.......could possibly help with a length of hose/suitable fittings, given a day or two. :y
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj241/CleverCollies/Gauge.jpg)
-
Is it perhaps worth having a look at the pressure relief valve?
IIRC it's behind a plug that can be removed once the cam belt cover is off, so not much work to check.
From what I saw when the sump was off the internals looked pretty clean. I doubt there'd be any harm in flushing it in that state but a drop in oil pressure only at idle, and presumably enough at higher speeds given that it's not suffered, makes me think the pressure relief valve might have a bit of crud in it, which is stopping it fully closing.
I`m not sure of the required measuring-range?...but, I have a (BNIB) 0-100 PSI gauge, 100mm. dia. (I think it`s a parallel 3/8" pipe-thread on the inlet): `happy to donate to forum use.......could possibly help with a length of hose/suitable fittings, given a day or two.
That would indeed be handy. :y Just need to adapt the thread to M14x1.5 (assuming that's what the V6 has-I haven't checked.)
-
I`m not sure of the required measuring-range?...but, I have a (BNIB) 0-100 PSI gauge, 100mm. dia. (I think it`s a parallel 3/8" pipe-thread on the inlet): `happy to donate to forum use.......could possibly help with a length of hose/suitable fittings, given a day or two. :y
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj241/CleverCollies/Gauge.jpg)
Fantastic Debs, I'm happy to get any adaptors needed to make this work? :y
-
This is potentialy one of the times where I would be tempted to run a good (e.g. Forte) oil flush through
I've not got any Forte, but tecSOL that Omegatoy gave me years ago, but yet to use.
Do the job? It also mentions sticky lifters.
Leave the Wynns in there a bit longer maybe? :-\
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/803897/Omega/TheChav/Photo%2021-11-2011%2011%2040%2039.jpg)
-
Is it perhaps worth having a look at the pressure relief valve?
IIRC it's behind a plug that can be removed once the cam belt cover is off, so not much work to check.
From what I saw when the sump was off the internals looked pretty clean. I doubt there'd be any harm in flushing it in that state but a drop in oil pressure only at idle, and presumably enough at higher speeds given that it's not suffered, makes me think the pressure relief valve might have a bit of crud in it, which is stopping it fully closing.
I`m not sure of the required measuring-range?...but, I have a (BNIB) 0-100 PSI gauge, 100mm. dia. (I think it`s a parallel 3/8" pipe-thread on the inlet): `happy to donate to forum use.......could possibly help with a length of hose/suitable fittings, given a day or two.
That would indeed be handy. :y Just need to adapt the thread to M14x1.5 (assuming that's what the V6 has-I haven't checked.)
Would engine flush help to clear that? :-\
-
Fantastic Debs, I'm happy to get any adaptors needed to make this work? :y
P.M sent :y
-
Tunnie - if you're going to get adapters to hook Deb's gauge up to your engine, find out what the thread is on the engine side and then take the gauge to your nearest Pirtek/industrial hydraulic hose place.. talk nicely to them and they'll make up a length of hose with the right fittings at each end for not a lot of money, I'll bet..
-
Is it perhaps worth having a look at the pressure relief valve?
IIRC it's behind a plug that can be removed once the cam belt cover is off, so not much work to check.
From what I saw when the sump was off the internals looked pretty clean. I doubt there'd be any harm in flushing it in that state but a drop in oil pressure only at idle, and presumably enough at higher speeds given that it's not suffered, makes me think the pressure relief valve might have a bit of crud in it, which is stopping it fully closing.
I`m not sure of the required measuring-range?...but, I have a (BNIB) 0-100 PSI gauge, 100mm. dia. (I think it`s a parallel 3/8" pipe-thread on the inlet): `happy to donate to forum use.......could possibly help with a length of hose/suitable fittings, given a day or two.
That would indeed be handy. :y Just need to adapt the thread to M14x1.5 (assuming that's what the V6 has-I haven't checked.)
Would engine flush help to clear that? :-\
Depends what it is. If it's a bit of oil deposit or carbon then maybe. If it's a bit of swarf, grit, etc. then probably not.
I know it can be a problem on the C20XE engine, causing exactly these symptoms. I'm speculating that maybe the V6 has a similar setup? ::)
-
Tunnie - if you're going to get adapters to hook Deb's gauge up to your engine, find out what the thread is on the engine side and then take the gauge to your nearest Pirtek/industrial hydraulic hose place.. talk nicely to them and they'll make up a length of hose with the right fittings at each end for not a lot of money, I'll bet..
Good advice, ta :y
But where is it on the engine? :-[
-
Tunnie - if you're going to get adapters to hook Deb's gauge up to your engine, find out what the thread is on the engine side and then take the gauge to your nearest Pirtek/industrial hydraulic hose place.. talk nicely to them and they'll make up a length of hose with the right fittings at each end for not a lot of money, I'll bet..
Good advice, ta :y
But where is it on the engine? :-[
The oil pressure switch - down to the left of the crank pulley.
What we are proposing is to remove this temporarily and connect the gauge. :y
In fact, I wonder if someone breaking a car has got an engine on which they can check the thread size? As I say, most modern Vauxhall applications appear to list a 14x1.5 adaptor but would be good to verify.
-
Fantastic Debs, I'm happy to get any adaptors needed to make this work? :y
P.M sent :y
Replied :) :y
-
Tunnie - if you're going to get adapters to hook Deb's gauge up to your engine, find out what the thread is on the engine side and then take the gauge to your nearest Pirtek/industrial hydraulic hose place.. talk nicely to them and they'll make up a length of hose with the right fittings at each end for not a lot of money, I'll bet..
Good advice, ta :y
But where is it on the engine? :-[
The oil pressure switch - down to the left of the crank pulley.
What we are proposing is to remove this temporarily and connect the gauge. :y
In fact, I wonder if someone breaking a car has got an engine on which they can check the thread size? As I say, most modern Vauxhall applications appear to list a 14x1.5 adaptor but would be good to verify.
Think I remember seeing this, when doing aux belt :)
-
So couple of things, shall I leave the Wynns in there a bit longer? Its only been in a couple of hundred.
Also is it ok to add the engine flush with Wynns already in there?
-
What we are saying is its not the lifters at fault (or they would be noisey when cold after they have bled down).
My comment re-engine flush was as per Kevin, its could be that the pressure releief valve is not seating fully and hence the flush may help to shift any crudd causing an issue.
As for a hydraulic hose, for christs sake dont use Pirtek, find a local place/man who does them as Pirtek are THE most expensive outfit you will ever come across!
-
Ok, thanks Mark :y
To save an oil change, I can just chuck the engine flush I have (tecsol) in with the Wynns already there? (won't do any harm mixing with it?) let it idle for 10 mins, as per instructions then drop oil & change it.
-
The Wynns engine flush says something along the lines of 20 Mins at 3K RPM IIRC. Got to get the pressure relief valve working / discounted before anything else IMHO.
-
The Wynns engine flush says something along the lines of 20 Mins at 3K RPM IIRC. Got to get the pressure relief valve working / discounted before anything else IMHO.
Stuff I have says 10 minutes at idle only, hoping the flush might move any crud around this valve.
-
My lifters rattle all the time! I just turn the radio up a notch now...Wynns did bugger all for mine.
-
The Wynns engine flush says something along the lines of 20 Mins at 3K RPM IIRC. Got to get the pressure relief valve working / discounted before anything else IMHO.
Stuff I have says 10 minutes at idle only, hoping the flush might move any crud around this valve.
I would chuck it in with the lifter treatment (which is probably just a mild form of flush anyway). I would also try a combination of idle and holding the engine at higher RPM, though, because ideally you want to try to exercise the relief valve a little, if it's not stuck fast.
-
The Wynns engine flush says something along the lines of 20 Mins at 3K RPM IIRC. Got to get the pressure relief valve working / discounted before anything else IMHO.
Stuff I have says 10 minutes at idle only, hoping the flush might move any crud around this valve.
I would chuck it in with the lifter treatment (which is probably just a mild form of flush anyway). I would also try a combination of idle and holding the engine at higher RPM, though, because ideally you want to try to exercise the relief valve a little, if it's not stuck fast.
Cheers Kevin, about to chuck the stuff in now :y
-
Hmm. oil lines behind the dashboard. I know exactly what type of "skid risk" that'll cause when it lets go. ::)
Indeed - I'd never fit a capillary gauge in the car as a permanent fixture (I'm always baffled why some folks prefer them, it seems like a disaster waiting to happen, to me!), rather go for a remote sender gauge as I had on the MR2.. but as a quick diagnostic thing it's much easier to screw a capillary gauge in that'll work with no other connections, than wire an electronic gauge up :)
Digressing somewhat, IIRC the Blackburn Beverley had four capillary oil pressure lines up to 30' long, one from each engine to the flight deck. As you may imagine, changing one was not an Instrument Fitter's favourite pastime!
-
Ok, chucked the flush in. On the bottle it said idle for 10 mins when hot, i gave it 8 mins at idle, 2 mins at 1.2k rpm & 2 mins at 2.5k rpm.
Dumped oil, fresh in with new filter, given it blast around the block. Much the same :(
Took a video of it, as i put the microphone right up against the cam covers, sounds much worse ;D
Sounds like a tractor :o
But as soon as your above idle, driving around town 1.5krpm+ say, smooooth as silk, sounds like V6 should :-\
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/803897/Omega/TheChav/Video%2021-11-2011%2016%2007%2017.mov (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/803897/Omega/TheChav/Video%2021-11-2011%2016%2007%2017.mov)
Video around (6mb)
-
Sounds like a tractor :o
But as soon as your above idle, driving around town 1.5krpm+ say, smooooth as silk, sounds like V6 should :-\
Hmm. Certainly sounds like symptoms of low oil pressure at idle to me. Would be good to get it measured, or just pop the relief valve out and check for debris and if the piston is scored.
-
Sounds like a tractor :o
But as soon as your above idle, driving around town 1.5krpm+ say, smooooth as silk, sounds like V6 should :-\
Hmm. Certainly sounds like symptoms of low oil pressure at idle to me. Would be good to get it measured, or just pop the relief valve out and check for debris and if the piston is scored.
Doing oil change today, I could see the pressure switch, it had a loom plug on it next to crank pully.
So I remove the loom connector and get a spanner/deep socket on it? Just remove it normally?
Stupid question - Will oil pour out? :-[ :-\
-
It'll be in an oil gallery so 'some' oil will drain out .. 'course it doesn't take much to make a mess everywhere ;D
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
-
It'll be in an oil gallery so 'some' oil will drain out .. 'course it doesn't take much to make a mess everywhere ;D
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
Hummm don't have any of that. Might need to wait for fatties help. :(
Is it going to cause any damage with continued driving?
-
Sounds like a tractor :o
But as soon as your above idle, driving around town 1.5krpm+ say, smooooth as silk, sounds like V6 should :-\
Hmm. Certainly sounds like symptoms of low oil pressure at idle to me. Would be good to get it measured, or just pop the relief valve out and check for debris and if the piston is scored.
Doing oil change today, I could see the pressure switch, it had a loom plug on it next to crank pully.
So I remove the loom connector and get a spanner/deep socket on it? Just remove it normally?
Stupid question - Will oil pour out? :-[ :-\
Yes, a little, but that's the pressure switch (for measuring the oil pressure) not the relief valve (a possible reason why it might be low). The relief valve is under a plug on the top of the oil pump, IIRC. Plenum, bagpipes, aux belt and cam belt cover need to come off to get to it. Might be worth hooking up that gauge as a first step, just to confirm our suspicions.
-
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.
-
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.
Ah - it's that kind of seal.. actually that makes sense, if it's not a taper thread (as Kevin alluded to). Durr. Ignore me on the PTFE, then :-[
[edit] There you go, Tunnie - one less excuse to wait for TBs help.. ;) ;D
-
I think a couple of us have heard this now.
When the oil is hot and thin, it sounds tappety from both banks. Cold its fine, fast idle it sounds fine.
I'd be inclined to get the pressure gauge on it.
Any debris/shite come out with the flush?
-
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.
If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk! ;)
-
Sounds like a tractor :o
But as soon as your above idle, driving around town 1.5krpm+ say, smooooth as silk, sounds like V6 should :-\
Hmm. Certainly sounds like symptoms of low oil pressure at idle to me. Would be good to get it measured, or just pop the relief valve out and check for debris and if the piston is scored.
Doing oil change today, I could see the pressure switch, it had a loom plug on it next to crank pully.
So I remove the loom connector and get a spanner/deep socket on it? Just remove it normally?
Stupid question - Will oil pour out? :-[ :-\
Yes, a little, but that's the pressure switch (for measuring the oil pressure) not the relief valve (a possible reason why it might be low). The relief valve is under a plug on the top of the oil pump, IIRC. Plenum, bagpipes, aux belt and cam belt cover need to come off to get to it. Might be worth hooking up that gauge as a first step, just to confirm our suspicions.
Need to get that gauge sorted first, its on its way, but I need to sort the adaptors.
Trouble is I don't have much spare time now, doubt I can strip it down until mid December :(
-
If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk! ;)
Tunnie hasn't got any PTFE tape.. what makes you think he's got a blowtorch? ;) ;D
-
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.
If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk! ;)
That was my intention, Debs, but I overdid it, thus had to put a new one on ;D
-
Any debris/shite come out with the flush?
Few little bits, nothing major.
-
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.
If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk! ;)
No No No, allow to cool naturally!
-
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.
If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk! ;)
No No No, allow to cool naturally!
Makes no odds if you melt the little tinker :-[
;D
-
You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.
I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.
If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk! ;)
No No No, allow to cool naturally!
"Unlike ferrous metals—which must be cooled slowly to anneal, copper, silver and brass can be cooled slowly in air or quickly by quenching in water. In this fashion the metal is softened and prepared for further work such as shaping, stamping, or forming" ;)
-
True, but, if one remembers to anneal all metals by cooling naturally, one will not be confused. :y
-
Take care not to damage the threaded boss the pressure switch screws into.
The boss is part of the aluminium oil pump casting and quite fragile.
If you ever need to replace the oil pump you will first need to undo the bolt in the nose of the crankshaft. IIRC it is torqued up to 250 ft-lb.
I seem to recall a thread on OOF where someone spent months trying to fix a leak from the oil pressure switch area, I don't know that they ever fixed it :-\
-
True, but, if one remembers to anneal all metals by cooling naturally, one will not be confused. :y
But Debs is correct re annealing of a copper washer. :y :y :y I learnt that at school many many moons ago! ;)
-
:o tecsol is extremely strong flush!!! i personally would have left it in for 15mins however if it made no difference after 10 mins then i would guess its something else at fault!! this stuff cleans oil squirters in a diesel easily!!
re lifters, they are or were in the straight six strippable!! then you could clean out the crud that sits in them, usually carboned oil, remove lifter squeeze closed which will squirt oil out so be careful!!
then turn upside down,(check there isnt a circlip holding it together) and bang hard on a block of hardwood, the centre piston as thats basically what it is, will then pop out, clean internals and with plenty of new oil reasemble, however if when removed the bore is seen to be scored nothing will help it!!
when clean leve in a bucket of oil for a few hours or overnight if possible, this will allow lifters to refill themselves, other than that replacement is the only option, also when they are out check the oilways that feed them for small blockages! if it were an oil preasure problem when hot then surely all would be noisy?
-
If it was the lifters they would be noisey when first starting as some would have drained down due to being under cam load.
Its got oil pressure written all over it to me.......question is......why.......how much metal was in the sump and was it white?
-
If it was the lifters they would be noisey when first starting as some would have drained down due to being under cam load.
Its got oil pressure written all over it to me.......question is......why.......how much metal was in the sump and was it white?
Spotted a couple of shards of metal in the sump when removed, i really mean just a few shards. Nothing to speak of. Again with sum pickup very slight concentration of metal shards right in the corner between the metal surround and mesh.
-
:o tecsol is extremely strong flush!!!
Its the stuff you gave me years ago when I had the senator :y :y
Had 14 mins in there in total.
Drove back tonight, cold start, sounded fine. Stopped for petrol about 1 mile down road, slight hint of lifters.
80mph blast of 65 miles and its same as before, perhaps slightly better now. :-\
Oil light never flickers, I know the bulb works as it came on as usual during the oil change
-
Half a dozen 1.5 to 2mm pieces if flat flakes of what looked like slightly rusty, possibly blue brown metal. No filings or silver looking stuff to worry about. Looked like stuff would flake off a casting tbh.
Motor has 137k on it.
-
Also there was next to no caked on crusty oil visible in the sump and upper visible area with sump removed. Golden brown colour, but clean.
-
Oil light never flickers, I know the bulb works as it came on as usual during the oil change
The problem is it only needs the tiniest bit of oil pressure to turn off the light, so it's next to useless as a diagnostic aid. Time to get that gauge on it, I think. :y
-
Oil light never flickers, I know the bulb works as it came on as usual during the oil change
The problem is it only needs the tiniest bit of oil pressure to turn off the light, so it's next to useless as a diagnostic aid. Time to get that gauge on it, I think. :y
It arrived today, just got to find somewhere that can make up connections. Trouble is I cannot get back until at Monday at earliest :(