Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: riber3 on 24 November 2011, 12:15:26
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Hi there,
I have recently got my first Omega 3 litre estate which has been stood for 8 years in a garage. I replaced the battery and the battery in the key fob and although the car turns over there is no noise coming from the fuel pump.
The guy I bought it from said it was running ok but now will not start I don't know if the immobiliser is on or not thus preventing the fuel pump from operating? and is there a way of overcoming this?
I am not asking for a how to break into a car by the way just want to get it running.
I checked the fuel pump fuse and relays all seems ok so not sure where to look next?
Also the tailgate is shut solid I have greased up the lock but any other tips for getting it open would be great
Many thanks
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1st step is the paper clip test, see the maint guide section index (quick link in my sig)
Report back any codes, there are some that will stop the car starting.
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Thanks for the advice I will read the link shortly
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After eight years that fuel might be a bit off.
I'd be tempted to drain it out and refill afresh.
Doesn't the EML flash if the imobiliser isn't happy?
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ECU runs the fuel pump when it senses that the engine is turning.
Simply switching on the ignition won't make the pump run so don't be too quick to condemn it.
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ECU runs the fuel pump when it senses that the engine is turning.
Simply switching on the ignition won't make the pump run so don't be too quick to condemn it.
Thanks for that but what is the EML Engine Management Light? what does it look like?
Cheers
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ECU runs the fuel pump when it senses that the engine is turning.
Simply switching on the ignition won't make the pump run so don't be too quick to condemn it.
That I didn't know but I would have thought you would hear the pump prime itself prior to turning over but I will what you have suggested.
Many thnks
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Where abouts in Wiltshire are you ?? I might be near enough to pop over some time and try and help ??
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check for codes, half a mars bar that its cranksensor ;)
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check for codes, half a mars bar that its cranksensor ;)
Got back a bit late today but did the paperclip test and got the following codes
13 O2 Sensor 1 Open Circuit
14 Coolant Temperature Voltage Low
Not sure if they would stop the car from starting though?
I will check the crank sensor tomorrow
Many thanks
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Hello all,
I managed to do another paperclip test today and took my shoes and socks off so I could count properly this time as I had a feeling I cocked it up yesterday!!!
So now these are the definitely the right codes and I counted each one 3 times over to make absolutely sure.
144 Immobiliser No Signal
132 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Feedback Incorrect Signal
135 Telltale (Checklight) Voltage Low
31 No Engine RPM Signal
I know 31 basically means engine not running which it isn't (boo!!)
135 I have no idea what a telltale check light is perhaps someone could please tell me
132 Not sure why this came up as engine not running but could be an old fault?
144 The big one Immobilser no signal. On the key and fob I recieved with the car the key does lock and unlock the central locking whereas the the 2 buttons on the fob do nothing apart from flash Green or Red depending which is pressed. So I take it the battery is ok.
I have no idea how to deactivate or reset the immobilser so any help on this would be most welcome and many thanks for your patience
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Check to see if the immobiliser chip is in the key, if not that may well be your problem. If there is an immobiliser chip in the key then the ecu needs programming with a tech2. You will have to find someone near you with one :y
The EGR one is prob a loose connector or a dirty connector, give it a clean and a wiggle. The others are nothing to worry about until you start the car
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The 135 telltale light is the engine management light
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Check to see if the immobiliser chip is in the key, if not that may well be your problem. If there is an immobiliser chip in the key then the ecu needs programming with a tech2. You will have to find someone near you with one :y
The EGR one is prob a loose connector or a dirty connector, give it a clean and a wiggle. The others are nothing to worry about until you start the car
HI there,
Thanks for the advice I believe the chip is in there as there is a black ring in the centre of the key but not sure how to split it open to verify it as I don't want to damage it.
It doesn't look as though it has been opened before and the previous owner never mentioned any problems with it.
I will clean up the egr valve and check the connections.
BTW how does the tech 2 procedure work?
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The 135 telltale light is the engine management light
Thanks for that I take its the flashing one when you check the codes?
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The 135 telltale light is the engine management light
Thanks for that I take its the flashing one when you check the codes?
easy way to see if chip working take it to key cutters and say you want a key cut, they pop it in and then tell you if its work and how much, and say no not at mo and leave. did it other day. as vauxhall wanted £30 just to test it.
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Sounds like a cunning plan I will give it a go tomorrow. If the chip has failed can a new one be fitted and hey presto car immobiliser working again or is that just wishful thinking???
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Sounds like a cunning plan I will give it a go tomorrow. If the chip has failed can a new one be fitted and hey presto car immobiliser working again or is that just wishful thinking???
maybe wish full. also did you try pressing the buttons on key fob when the ignishion lights were on???
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Sounds like a cunning plan I will give it a go tomorrow. If the chip has failed can a new one be fitted and hey presto car immobiliser working again or is that just wishful thinking???
maybe wish full. also did you try pressing the buttons on key fob when the ignishion lights were on???
I didn't think of that I take it you mean have the key in the ignition and turn to position 2 then try turning on the key fob and see if anything happens?
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Sounds like a cunning plan I will give it a go tomorrow. If the chip has failed can a new one be fitted and hey presto car immobiliser working again or is that just wishful thinking???
maybe wish full. also did you try pressing the buttons on key fob when the ignishion lights were on???
I didn't think of that I take it you mean have the key in the ignition and turn to position 2 then try turning on the key fob and see if anything happens?
yes then take key out and try buttons see if the doors lock-unlock. it should start then. if locks working.
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Sounds like a cunning plan I will give it a go tomorrow. If the chip has failed can a new one be fitted and hey presto car immobiliser working again or is that just wishful thinking???
maybe wish full. also did you try pressing the buttons on key fob when the ignishion lights were on???
I didn't think of that I take it you mean have the key in the ignition and turn to position 2 then try turning on the key fob and see if anything happens?
yes then take key out and try buttons see if the doors lock-unlock. it should start then. if locks working.
I think you are confusing the early infra-red fob with the later wireless fob.
The early cars had a little black dome next to the sunroof knob. When you press the unlock button the led on the key fob has to be pointing at the dome for it to work. After unlocking the doors the immobiliser is disabled for about 30 seconds to give you time to start the engine. If you don't start it in time you have to point the fob at the sunroof again to disable the immobiliser for another 30 seconds.
On later cars they switched to a wireless fob (to unlock the doors) and fitted the immobiliser in a plastic ring around the ignition switch. The immobiliser senses a tiny microchip in the key. The microchip quite often falls out when people are fitting new batteries to their key fobs ::). If the fob battery has been dead for a long time it might be necessary to resynchronise the fob with the car by turning on the ignition and pressing the fob buttons. (This won't work if the key has not been paired with the car first and probably wont work if the immobiliser chip is lying on the floor somewhere................) Resynchronising only affects the remote part of the fob. The car should still start even if the buttons don't open the doors.
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Yep, immobiliser and remote fob are completely separate on later cars.
IIRC, the EML flashes when cranking if the immobiliser hasn't disengaged, though. And I believe the engine will fire and then die, not just crank over endlessly.
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It would be useful if you told us the age of the car as that will help determine whether it's a pre or mini-facelift car or even facelift car.
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It would be useful if you told us the age of the car as that will help determine whether it's a pre or mini-facelift car or even facelift car.
Hi there,
My thanks to everyone who has posted. The car is a P reg 1998 carand is a non sunroof model but the gentleman who provided the info on sunroof models it wasn't very interesting to learn about that.
I have a seperate key and fob and the fob has 2 buttons on it unlock and lock and they light green and red accordingly.
Anyway getting back to mine. Today I fitted a good fully charged battery and left the car for half an hour and when I went back to it I did the following.
I locked and unlocked the car with the key sat in car and put key in ignition to position 2. I then tried and Succeeded to operate the key fob and the doors locked and unlocked with me in the car.
I unlocked the car again with the fob and then I tried to start it, Sadly it still didn't fire up and the orange(yellow) light in front of me stayed on all the time I was cranking Its shaped like a pump with an electrical flash in the middle so I take this is the EML light?
2 other lights also stayed on whilst cranking the red battery light and the oil level or is it an oil pressure light?
I rechecked the oil level which is fine.
I did not see anything missing off the ignition barrel i.e. the the ring so it now seems although one step closer it still won't start.
Should I do another paperclip test and if I remove a fuel line will it show fuel pumping through?
Someone mentioned the crank sensor do I have to jack the car up to access it? as the book shows it by the oil filter?
I look forward to all your advice and thanks again
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P reg and 1998 dont go together...
If its the old IR style, and it is an immobiliser issue, then it is quite easily resolvable :y
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Might be a silly question, but this is Vauxhall as opposed to an Opel badged car isn't it?
The reason I ask is that ALL retail 3.0 Vauxhall cars had sunroofs. Is this an ex-Police spec car?
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are you sure it was running before it was garaged, seems funny that it has not been started for 8years?, i would see if some one could have a look at it with propper tec2 and see whats wrong with it if you ask some one on here may be able to have a look for you. and just a quicky, when the doors are locked dose the red light for the alarm flash 30 sec-60sec after the doors are locked. also have you had the plugs out and see what they are like?...
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P reg and 1998 dont go together...
If its the old IR style, and it is an immobiliser issue, then it is quite easily resolvable :y
What is IR style being a p reg it could be 97 but if it is what you say it is how do you resolve it?
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Might be a silly question, but this is Vauxhall as opposed to an Opel badged car isn't it?
The reason I ask is that ALL retail 3.0 Vauxhall cars had sunroofs. Is this an ex-Police spec car?
Yes this an ex police car as I was informed by the previous owner and although the car was put away he did start and run it from time to time and said everything was working fine until he le it run out of petrol. I have put fresh petrol in
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are you sure it was running before it was garaged, seems funny that it has not been started for 8years?, i would see if some one could have a look at it with propper tec2 and see whats wrong with it if you ask some one on here may be able to have a look for you. and just a quicky, when the doors are locked dose the red light for the alarm flash 30 sec-60sec after the doors are locked. also have you had the plugs out and see what they are like?...
Yes this an ex police car as I was informed by the previous owner and although the car was put away he did start and run it from time to time and said everything was working fine until he let it run out of petrol. I have put fresh petrol in since and I will recheck the alarm later today
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would replace spark plugs and fuel filter, new fuel filter as if been out of fuel for long time old depasits can harden and block it up. spark plugs can do same and not let spark across as sotted up, also check that there is fuel pressure. if had tec2 you could prime the fuel line without running engine. make sure the 3 main parts are working fuel spark and air. if they are all working then its somthig else.
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The way to check fuel is getting through is to disconnect the two fuel hoses running to the inlet plenum on the top of the engine.
These are pipes connected to the top/middle on the drivers side.
Just disconnect them and crank over for a few seconds. Fuel should spurt out, so dont do it for too long for obvious reasons! If fuel spurts then great, but if not then you have a problem as it should do - if you see my logic. The fuel will only come out of one of them as its a closed loop system.
I think the pipes have different threads so you can't cross them over - but best to label them in case.
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The way to check fuel is getting through is to disconnect the two fuel hoses running to the inlet plenum on the top of the engine.
These are pipes connected to the top/middle on the drivers side.
Just disconnect them and crank over for a few seconds. Fuel should spurt out, so dont do it for too long for obvious reasons! If fuel spurts then great, but if not then you have a problem as it should do - if you see my logic. The fuel will only come out of one of them as its a closed loop system.
I think the pipes have different threads so you can't cross them over - but best to label them in case.
Hi all,
Today I was going to check plugs and filters but before I do I thought I would do another paperclip test especially as the fob is now operating the cental locking ok.
Also after checking on this site I discovered that the car is pre-facelift as it has the electric window switches on the centre console by the gearstick.
Anyway the test showed code fault 144 which is immobilser has no signal
Somebody mentioned there is an easy way to overcome (fix) this so please let me know what do next and then I will check plugs and filters etc by the way is there another fuel filter as well as the one in the tank??
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The way to check fuel is getting through is to disconnect the two fuel hoses running to the inlet plenum on the top of the engine.
These are pipes connected to the top/middle on the drivers side.
Just disconnect them and crank over for a few seconds. Fuel should spurt out, so dont do it for too long for obvious reasons! If fuel spurts then great, but if not then you have a problem as it should do - if you see my logic. The fuel will only come out of one of them as its a closed loop system.
I think the pipes have different threads so you can't cross them over - but best to label them in case.
Hi all,
Today I was going to check plugs and filters but before I do I thought I would do another paperclip test especially as the fob is now operating the cental locking ok.
Also after checking on this site I discovered that the car is pre-facelift as it has the electric window switches on the centre console by the gearstick.
Anyway the test showed code fault 144 which is immobilser has no signal
Somebody mentioned there is an easy way to overcome (fix) this so please let me know what do next and then I will check plugs and filters etc by the way is there another fuel filter as well as the one in the tank??
The fuel filter on the estate isn't easy to get to - being located up near the back axle. If you try my trick you will see if fuel is flowing :y
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The way to check fuel is getting through is to disconnect the two fuel hoses running to the inlet plenum on the top of the engine.
These are pipes connected to the top/middle on the drivers side.
Just disconnect them and crank over for a few seconds. Fuel should spurt out, so dont do it for too long for obvious reasons! If fuel spurts then great, but if not then you have a problem as it should do - if you see my logic. The fuel will only come out of one of them as its a closed loop system.
I think the pipes have different threads so you can't cross them over - but best to label them in case.
Hi all,
Today I was going to check plugs and filters but before I do I thought I would do another paperclip test especially as the fob is now operating the cental locking ok.
Also after checking on this site I discovered that the car is pre-facelift as it has the electric window switches on the centre console by the gearstick.
Anyway the test showed code fault 144 which is immobilser has no signal
Somebody mentioned there is an easy way to overcome (fix) this so please let me know what do next and then I will check plugs and filters etc by the way is there another fuel filter as well as the one in the tank??
just did a quick test on mine says that when doors unlock, when alarm is on and sat in car should say volts etc. but you need tec2 etc to see that. also when no battery has been on for wile will keep it stored until engine has been run from new or charged battery has started engine.
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Many thanks again for the help. I will test fuel flow tomorrow and I will see if I can get hold of a tech2 if I can and see what it says.
I have just written to Jimbob to follow up on his comment about immobilsers and I will let you know what I find.
Thank you to the poster who told me where the fuel filter is located might have known it was some easy to get to LOL!!!!