Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Maurizio Ceresoli on 30 November 2011, 20:00:14
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So, as prolly you'd read in another topic, i bought this car as a toy / tow car.
I'm gonna prepare it for trackdays following the "low cost" religion, and i'm gonna need help on that for sur, i dismantled and rebuilt quite a lot of Nissan S Chassises and E30 / E34 / E46 / E39 bimmers, but i have no experience on GM engines.
I already took out good part of the interior, incredible how much the rear seats do weigh.
I ordered a SPAX coilover kit, and i'm searching on an LSD, help on that would be appreciated, otherwise if i don't find one for kinda cheap i'm gonna weld it.
I took out the original filter box and opened the lower part creating a "spoon" as we use to do on Nissans, that's even better than cone filters or carbon hi priced low engineered airboxes, and i did put a K&N filter innit.
I did put a new MAF on it, as the old one was kinda old and car felt numb revving in neutral.
Car now feels more reactive, definitely accelerates better at high RPMs, noise is very nice but not loud, as i did only open one of the 4 faces of the airbox, the one facing front, and i did put a duct, replacing the original, that sends fresh air behind the right front light.
Incredible is, how BAD it got the fuel consumption, have some doubts about the MAF working good, even if car feels lot better now it's kinda a big price to pay, i lost something like 2 liters every 100kms, not a cheap thing!
Next plans are to remove EGR, fit a couple of sport kats and remove central silencers.
Doubts are about wich errors will come out after these modify, and if they will put the car in any "recovery" mode that will penalise the power output.
Thanks by now, gonna need loads of help in that project.
;)
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blanking egr a good move,however experience of many is that removing centre boxes and replacing cats always results in lower bhp and poor running
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Even if after that the program is to lighten the flywheel about 5kg then remap the ecu to fit the engine managemente to the new theoric performance capacities?
I'm quite sure that engine ran with less restrictive kats before our edition, so it may be just a problem of how much stuff arrives to the Lambda sensor after the kat, thing that i may solve using 2 mini-kats some company sells here in Italy, that basically is a small katalisator fitted in a spacer that will send the sensor like 3cms out of the exhaust, while still getting heat and exhaust gases.
I had it on a de-katted Mitsu Evo 9 and it just solved all the "engine check" light problems.
Thanks for the advice by now!