Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Varche on 07 December 2011, 11:55:02
-
I have a 13mm bolt that has sheared off to sort out on my Vitara. Plus gassed it, heat and tried filing flats on the projecting bit but not quite enough left to get mole grips on.
I am suspecting that I need to get a set of easy outs or perhaps try and drill it out.
It must be 40 years since I last used easy outs and don't possess any. These off EBay seem very cheap. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BROKEN-STUD-SCREW-BOLT-EXTRACTOR-SET-EASY-OUTS-REMOVAL-/190609873776?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2c613bdb70 . Am I better off paying more?
-
Cant get a cordless drill chuck on it and spin it out in reverse?
-
If you have tried the things you have already tried then drill it.
I can pretty much guarantee that if you have gone to the lengths you already have that using an easyout will result in a piece of broken hardened steel being left in the bolt.
-
If you have tried the things you have already tried then drill it.
I can pretty much guarantee that if you have gone to the lengths you already have that using an easyout will result in a piece of broken hardened steel being left in the bolt.
Yep second that , and use cobalt drills ..... :y
-
Agree with above!!! don not try to use easy out,
if you can almost get molegrips on it, then find a nut that fits over the stub and weld it on, allow to cool
and then wind it out!! assuming you have an arc welder that is?
if not i have had a fair bit of success, by using a left hand thread nut on studs, getting it to start is a bit of a job, but once its started it usually undoes the stud,
whereabouts is it on engine?
-
I used easy outs once- they quickly became 'easy out the window' we didn't get along!
Experienced as described... Snap!! So I now still have a 50 year old lawn mower with no holes to bolt blades to, D'oh!!
-
Agree with above!!! don not try to use easy out,
if you can almost get molegrips on it, then find a nut that fits over the stub and weld it on, allow to cool
and then wind it out!! assuming you have an arc welder that is?
if not i have had a fair bit of success, by using a left hand thread nut on studs, getting it to start is a bit of a job, but once its started it usually undoes the stud,
whereabouts is it on engine?
It isn't on the engine but one of the sumpguard bolts on my Vitara. Tried the drill in reverse . Great idea but there isn't enough to grab with the chuck. Similarly not enough to put a nut on and I suspect not enough to weld onto either but haven't got a welder so a bit academic. Cobalt drill it is methinks.
-
Cobalt drill it is methinks
drillbits!
it will be better to gradually increase the size of the drillbit until reaching the correct size :y
-
What about these Varche?
Clicky: http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-5-piece-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/96028?cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Automotive-_-Irwin%205%20Piece%20Bolt%20Grip%20Nut%20Remover%20Set&gclid=CL7d4_u48qwCFQMPfAodjH9tLg
-
Seeing as it`s a sump guard (rather than a precision component): would not a simple re-boring of the hole (into the broken stud) and re-threading (using a 'bottoming' tap), be enough to re secure the offending item? :-\
-
dont think that will do it seth, think that set is for a bolt with a damaged head not a stud with no head :-\
-
Seeing as it`s a sump guard (rather than a precision component): would not a simple re-boring of the hole (into the broken stud) and re-threading (using a 'bottoming' tap), be enough to re secure the offending item? :-\
A 'plug' tap Debs? ;)
-
dont think that will do it seth, think that set is for a bolt with a damaged head not a stud with no head :-\
Possibly, though I've known them to work on a stud - providing the removal socket can grip sufficiently on the offending stud! :y
-
Seeing as it`s a sump guard (rather than a precision component): would not a simple re-boring of the hole (into the broken stud) and re-threading (using a 'bottoming' tap), be enough to re secure the offending item? :-\
A 'plug' tap Debs? ;)
Can be called either Seth ;)
-
A 'plug' tap Debs? ;)
:P My bathroom`s got both! ;D
-
Be careful with the first small drill bit I did this and broke the bit when almost through then had the problem of getting the broken bit out.
-
Seeing as it`s a sump guard (rather than a precision component): would not a simple re-boring of the hole (into the broken stud) and re-threading (using a 'bottoming' tap), be enough to re secure the offending item? :-\
ditch the gaurd i say :D
-
:y
DO not ditch the guard, it is there for a reason!
I have seen to many of these in my long career and by trial and error over those years found that this way works best.
Your best bet is to get hold of a set of high quality (el cheapos are total crap that will let you down) easy outs and use the correct drill size and easy out to suit the broken stud. Use a high grade centre pop to heavily mark the centre of the broken stud. Always work from it being cold and use a high quality Cobalt drill and drill slowly at 90 degrees to it with only enough pressure to keep the drill bit biting. Once done apply loads of WD or similar and screw in the Easy out using a 'T' type thread cutting tap holder.
Patience is the key word....
GudLuk
-
A little confused about the cold bit and drilling at 90 degrees.
-
A 'plug' tap Debs? ;)
:P My bathroom`s got both! ;D
In the posh new house with central heating ;D ::)