Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Cliffo B on 09 January 2012, 23:00:33
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Time now to change Miggy's plugs
So got a set of 6 twin electrode ones from the dealers
The part No is 90494142 the numbers on the porcelain insulator is 000 (heatrange?)
My query is are these the correct twin electrode plugs for the 3.2 V6 engine?
Will be gratefull to have confirmation
I've always fitted Bosch 4 electrode ones before.
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Time now to change Miggy's plugs
So got a set of 6 twin electrode ones from the dealers
The part No is 90494142 the numbers on the porcelain insulator is 000 (heatrange?)
My query is are these the correct twin electrode plugs for the 3.2 V6 engine?
Will be gratefull to have confirmation
I've always fitted Bosch 4 electrode ones before.
Vx will say that the 'correct' plugs are the 4 electrode plugs, but that's so they can leave them for 80k miles. You'll want to change your new twin electrodes way before 80k so they'll be more than good enough. :y :y :y
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Time now to change Miggy's plugs
So got a set of 6 twin electrode ones from the dealers
The part No is 90494142 the numbers on the porcelain insulator is 000 (heatrange?)
My query is are these the correct twin electrode plugs for the 3.2 V6 engine?
Will be gratefull to have confirmation
I've always fitted Bosch 4 electrode ones before.
Vx will say that the 'correct' plugs are the 4 electrode plugs, but that's so they can leave them for 80k miles. You'll want to change your new twin electrodes way before 80k so they'll be more than good enough. :y :y :y
Are they good for 40k?
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Probably coincidence, but fitted GM twins to mine at 160k and within 2k it had destroyed one plug and all the others were loose :-\
I change the plugs every 20k, and apart from that one incident, always use Quads. You pays your money...
Btw, all the filters (air/pollen/oil/fuel), a sump plug, six GM quads and GM 10w40 (at £35 for 20l) comes to less than £70. :y You can pay that for the plugs and oil alone at helfruds :-\
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That part number you list, 90494142 is an Air Bag Screw not the number for the spark plugs
The quad plug is Pt/No 9195868 with a Bosch Number FGR8KQE0 £3.22 each inc VAT
The Twin plug is Pt/No 9195109 with a Bosch Number FLR8LDCU £2.93 each inc VAT
And 99.9% of GM Plugs are made by Bosch
Cheers
Andy
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...... it had destroyed one plug and all the others were loose :-\
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You seem to have the same problem as The Boy ??? ??? I've never had plugs come loose on my Omega - perhaps I have a better calibrated right arm/wrist ;) ;) ;)
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Sorry AndyB ::)
Have the air bag screws on same Invoice
As you'll realise picked up on wrong No
You're correct as ever the twin electrode plugs are 9195109 :y
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Sorry AndyB ::)
Have the air bag screws on same Invoice
As you'll realise picked up on wrong No
You're correct as ever the twin electrode plugs are 9195109 :y
Andy B ........... andyc ::) ::) ::) what's in a letter? ;) ;)
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the difference in the letter is about 200 miles lol
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Just jump in here Cliff ;D
Just checked trade club ( yes it works when you put the correct password in :-[ ;D ;D )
2 different plugs for my engine
£1:51 and about double that for the other one ::)
Which one is needed for mine please
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I used GM twins in both my Omegas, including the 3.2 which left the factory with quads.
The only reason quads exist is to extend service life from 40k (twin) to 80k (quad). By 50k, they are loose anyway.
It is argued that quads may sheild the spark slightly, making twins better in that respect. As I run LPG (and the extra difficulties in igniting the fuel), I will stick to twins, and change prematurely - 20-25k...
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Sorry, i'll just update that ::)
Cheap ones are for a 2.5
More expensive ones are for a 3.0
Looks like the stealer has priced up the plugs based on the reg number but the shed has had a engine upgrade since.
Will 2.5 plugs work ok in a 3.0 with lpg ?
I take it the twins are the cheap ones
The quads are the more expensive ones ?
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I used GM twins in both my Omegas, including the 3.2 which left the factory with quads.
The only reason quads exist is to extend service life from 40k (twin) to 80k (quad). By 50k, they are loose anyway.
It is argued that quads may sheild the spark slightly, making twins better in that respect. As I run LPG (and the extra difficulties in igniting the fuel), I will stick to twins, and change prematurely - 20-25k...
Iv always been using twins on my 3.2, and will stick to it changing @ every 10k/1year. I remember having a chat with a guy at vx parts who said doesnt matter what you put in whether its single,twin or quads. your car will still produce the same spark (not any bigger just because you have quads on).. is there any real weight to that??
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Yes as the spark only jumps one of the gaps at any time.
Clearly as the electrode wears the gap gets bigger and hence a different electrode will take over and hence how they last longer (there is more metal to errode).
No need to change at 10k intervals though with modern timing and fuels, 20K is erring on the cautious side even for lpg
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No need to change at 10k intervals though with modern timing and fuels, 20K is erring on the cautious side even for lpg
10k: Oil and filter, with a flush and lifter treatment.
20k: 10k plus Air/Pollen/Fuel filters, Spark plugs.
40k: 20k plus Cambelt and Water Pump.
I service mine that intensly because of the mileage that I do :y, though am considering dropping to 5k oil changes though to help it last longer. :-\
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I have a pot full of plugs all changed at 20k ish. Electrodes look fine, like new re wear afaict.
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I have a pot full of plugs all changed at 20k ish. Electrodes look fine, like new re wear afaict.
Yeh, wouldn't have seen that twenty years ago!
I have found 0.1-0.2mm of gap opening on them if measured
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No need to change at 10k intervals though with modern timing and fuels, 20K is erring on the cautious side even for lpg
Although, given the low cost, if you have the coil packs out for any reason, makes sense to pop fresh ones in :)
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No need to change at 10k intervals though with modern timing and fuels, 20K is erring on the cautious side even for lpg
10k: Oil and filter, with a flush and lifter treatment.
20k: 10k plus Air/Pollen/Fuel filters, Spark plugs.
40k: 20k plus Cambelt and Water Pump.
I service mine that intensly because of the mileage that I do :y, though am considering dropping to 5k oil changes though to help it last longer. :-\
I'm guessing yours barely ever gets cold so 10k is probably a reasonable schedule - assuming you use the good stuff (5w30). ;)
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No need to change at 10k intervals though with modern timing and fuels, 20K is erring on the cautious side even for lpg
10k: Oil and filter, with a flush and lifter treatment.
20k: 10k plus Air/Pollen/Fuel filters, Spark plugs.
40k: 20k plus Cambelt and Water Pump.
I service mine that intensly because of the mileage that I do :y, though am considering dropping to 5k oil changes though to help it last longer. :-\
I'm guessing yours barely ever gets cold so 10k is probably a reasonable schedule - assuming you use the good stuff (5w30). ;)
Upto 160k it had only had 10w40 in it, thought I'd treat it and used 5w30. Top end was then very rattly when cold, now use GM 10w40 and not so bad :y other issues notwithstanding ::)
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Upto 160k it had only had 10w40 in it, thought I'd treat it and used 5w30. Top end was then very rattly when cold, now use GM 10w40 and not so bad :y other issues notwithstanding ::)
Mileage a bit high for the thinner stuff perhaps..
It actually quietened mine down from cold.