Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: PAULCDX on 04 February 2012, 21:35:24
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Hi Guys,
Well, just got back from Manchester in my new purchase 52 plate 2.6 V6 CD.... Love the car, only 75k and drives a dream but I've found the following problem already.
Not once has the temp gauge moved of zero and the heating was on high but only felt luke warm???
Any ideas what this could be and are both faults related I wonder??
Thanks as always.
Paul :y
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I had the same problem with mine and it was the thermostat that was faulty, i.e. stuck open. Once replaced it was fine. Could be a number of things though, stating the obvious is there coolant in there? Or there could be an air-lock.
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Hi,
Yeah I've checked the coolant it is was at the right level and a lovely pink / red colour if that makes sense?
As I say heating wasn't very warm either?? Car drove fine all the way home from Manchester with no warning lights etc.
Thanks,
Paul
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Sounds like thermostat stuck open to me. :)
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yup sounds like a stuck open thermostat :y
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Does a stuck open stat mean a repair of the existing one or replacement? Just for my progress :y
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Does a stuck open stat mean a repair of the existing one or replacement? Just for my progress :y
A stuck/sticking thermostat whether open or closed requires replacement. :y :y :y
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Replace the exsisting one webby mate. :y
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Cheers Jason and AndyB :y :y :y
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Does a stuck open stat mean a repair of the existing one or replacement? Just for my progress :y
you dont need to change it on my old one the heating is lovely and hot steve :y :y :y
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So this would cause the heating issue and the Temp gauge not to move guys?
Should I be experiencing any overheating? not that I'd know if the temp gauge isn't working so to speak.....
Sorry i'm not a mechanic, just love driving the beauties lol
Thanks everybody,
:y
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Does a stuck open stat mean a repair of the existing one or replacement? Just for my progress :y
you dont need to change it on my old one the heating is lovely and hot steve :y :y :y
Oh no worries on your motor, Ralf - was just wondering if it happens in't future :y :y :y :y :y
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Cheers Jason and AndyB :y :y :y
Various people say that you can just change the actual 'stat on a V6 ie you don't need to buy the whole 'stat including the housing however when I changed mine the other week for the first time I'd to destroy my housing to get it to part company with the ally transfer pipe. ;) ;) Something to bear in mind if you've only got the 2.0's insert, it's Sunday afternoon, all the motor factors are shut and you need the car for work on Monday morning. :y :y :y
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Glad you got the car ok mate. V6 eh!
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....
not that I'd know if the temp gauge isn't working so to speak.....
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Find the blue wire connected to the gauge's sensor (in maintenance section somewhere ;)), remove it & connect it to earth, the gauge should go to fully hot. ;) ;)
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Cheers Jason and AndyB :y :y :y
Various people say that you can just change the actual 'stat on a V6 ie you don't need to buy the whole 'stat including the housing however when I changed mine the other week for the first time I'd to destroy my housing to get it to part company with the ally transfer pipe. ;) ;) Something to bear in mind if you've only got the 2.0's insert, it's Sunday afternoon, all the motor factors are shut and you need the car for work on Monday morning. :y :y :y
Like most thing, Andy...trying to cut corners or save time and/or money never works :y I'll take that advice if I come across the problem! Cheers :y
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With my problem Paul, the temp. gague would only literally move off the baseline & I had very little to no heating inside the cabin. One trip to a fellow OOF member & one thermostat later all was well - Thanks to Elite Pete. If the stat is stuck open then it won't allow the coolant to warm up before it circulates the engine. Therefore the car will run 'cool' all the time and won't heat the internal cabin as its run off the same system. There is no problem as such i.e the car won't over-heat, but it does need sorting especially in this weather when its bloody freezing outside and you've no form of cabin heating.
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Ive just bought a genuine stat for mine without the housing for £7. From VX with the housing I believe they are around £60 ?
I do have a couple of spare housings if I muller one though. ;)
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Ive just bought a genuine stat for mine without the housing for £7. From VX with the housing I believe they are around £60 ?
I do have a couple of spare housings if I muller one though. ;)
A genuine 2.0 'stat? ;) ;)
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Yep - which afaik is the same stat as is in the V6 housing.
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Thanks for all the replies and advice guy's,
I will get this looked at asap by somebody off here.....
Dan - Oh yes mate it had to be the V6 lol.......
Will pop it round once fixed :y
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Thanks for all the replies and advice guy's,
I will get this looked at asap by somebody off here.....
Dan - Oh yes mate it had to be the V6 lol.......
Will pop it round once fixed :y
Not too difficult to do the job .... I'm sure there's a guide somewhere. As said, the hardest bit is separating the stat housing from the transfer pipe. :y :y
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Thanks for all the replies and advice guy's,
I will get this looked at asap by somebody off here.....
Dan - Oh yes mate it had to be the V6 lol.......
Will pop it round once fixed :y
Im about in the morning. Just pm me mate :y
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Try running the car on tick over on the drive with the aircon off, it might take a while with the outside temps as they are at the moment and see if the temp gauge rises.
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Try running the car on tick over on the drive with the aircon off, it might take a while with the outside temps as they are at the moment and see if the temp gauge rises
thats excatly what mine is doing pete, so does that point to stat stuck open ??
also there is enough snow on the ground for you to come over to york for cambelt change etc etc ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Try running the car on tick over on the drive with the aircon off, it might take a while with the outside temps as they are at the moment and see if the temp gauge rises
thats excatly what mine is doing pete, so does that point to stat stuck open ??
also there is enough snow on the ground for you to come over to york for cambelt change etc etc ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Yeah, if the gauge rises without airflow through the rad but drops when moving then that would suggest a sticking thermostat.
How deep is the snow Rog, didn't we have about 4 or 5 inches last time, I need at least 3 inches before i'm interested ::) ;D
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Thanks Pete,
I will give this a go today,
Cheers, :y
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With my problem Paul, the temp. gague would only literally move off the baseline & I had very little to no heating inside the cabin. One trip to a fellow OOF member & one thermostat later all was well - Thanks to Elite Pete. If the stat is stuck open then it won't allow the coolant to warm up before it circulates the engine. Therefore the car will run 'cool' all the time and won't heat the internal cabin as its run off the same system. There is no problem as such i.e the car won't over-heat, but it does need sorting especially in this weather when its bloody freezing outside and you've no form of cabin heating.
Until the engine is properly hot the ECU will keep chucking fuel in to warm the engine up. On a car that struggles to achieve 30 mpg on a good day that is a problem IMO.
When I got my 2.6 I had exactly the same symptoms and was getting 19mpg. I changed the stat and now get 27 mpg.
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Hi Pete,
Update -
I tried what you suggested and yes the temp gauge does rise nicely to 85c without the heating on. As soon as I switch the heating on the temp gauge slowly drops to zero.
Cheers as always,
Paul
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Did you feel any heat, from heater vents?
The reason it will run warmer on the drive, but cold on a run, is because in these temperatures, the icy cold air cools the coolant in the rad quickly :y
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James,
Yes I did feel some heat on the run but it wasn't very hot, not like it normally should be if that makes sense?
Does everything still point to a stuck theromstat?
Cheers,
Paul
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Hi Pete,
Update -
I tried what you suggested and yes the temp gauge does rise nicely to 85c without the heating on. As soon as I switch the heating on the temp gauge slowly drops to zero.
Cheers as always,
Paul
You'll need a new thermostat Paul. I've had quite a few of these and they've been good ;)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-OMEGA-VECTRA-etc-V6-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-NEW-/370148171910?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item562e8ce086
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Agree with Pete - I always factor the cost of a new transfer pipe and O rings too - and of course, 5 litres of fresh coolant :y
Worth doing. You'll get better fuel economy with a working stat :y
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Cheers Pete / James,
I've managed to source one from Twiglet so I will be looking to get this replaced as soon as possible.......
Thanks Guys
Paul :y
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A used stat?
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Yes I believe so mate, is this not a good idea???
Have sent you a PM re other work
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For the price of them Paul and the amount of work it takes to fit I personally would fit a new one ;)
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Thanks for the reply Pete,
I believe he has already took one of a car tho, and he is ready to post to me..........
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I sent a PM saying the same youth.
Althoughthat is nothing against Twiglet as he is a decent guy.
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I sent a PM saying the same youth.
Althoughthat is nothing against Twiglet as he is a decent guy.
Couldn't agree more Daz :y
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Ok Guy's
I appreciate the advice,
So shall I source a new one then instead? I'm sure Twiglet won't mind? I will send him a PM..
:y
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Pete,
Thanks for the ebay link, I will look into purchasing this one as recommended?
Cheers,
Paul :y
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One thing to watch is the new stat housing mountings are thinner than the old ones, so the fixing bolts are too long, and if you keep tightening them up, (a) the housing won't seal, (b) something may crack or the thread strip. You need shorter bolts or a spacer to fit underneath the existing ones.
Ken
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Easiest way to check a thermostat ...
Start engine from cold (preferably overnight)
Leave idling with air con / heating OFF
Stand with bonnet open and one hand on the BIG pipe from the thermostat to the top of the radiator.
The pipe should remain cold until a SUDDEN surge of heat as the thermostat opens - if the pipe very slowly warms up then the thermostat is stuck open.
This procedure will check that the thermostat only opens once a temperature is reached .. but does not check the actual temperature, however that is normally pretty obvious if it is wrong !!
HTH :)
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Thanks for all the replies and advice guys.
I've ordered a new thermostat anyway and will update soon.......
Cheers, :y
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I need to do my thermostat so am ordering the one off eBay that comes with the new housing and seal, my query is what other parts will I need done that area ?
And also the transfer pipe the guides mention, does it need replacing or just the o-ring/seal between it and the thermostat housing ?
Thanks for your help
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2 o-rings for the transfer pipe and that should be it. While your in there though,inspect everything else and check for leaks.Oil cooler cover plate is known to leak sometimes,so wouldnt do any harm to have a tube of the correct sealant to hand in case you need it,although I paid almost £14 for a tube of it at VX a couple of weeks ago,so might be worth whipping the plenum/manifold/sandwich plate off and having a look before doing the thermostat.That way if you discover you need to reseal the plate,you could reassemble until you get the sealant. Also check the coolant bridge where it bolts to the heads,as they have been known to leak occassionally as well.Basically,just clean everything up and have a good look around before you start removing the stat and transfer pipe.
Good luck with the bastid bolt btw,swear box at the ready. ;)
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If ordering the 2 rubber "0" ring seals for the coolant pipe to heater matrix,have a very large drink first as VX charge £3=36 each for them. >:(.
Trouble is for the amount of effort required to get to them it is hardly worth skimping on the correct part,but over £7=00 for 2 small rubber seals is nothing short of criminal :(
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The transfer pipe has a habit of oxidating and can break during removal which will leave you stranded your local Vauxhall dealer will have to order one in. IIRC they are about £12 and include the 2 O rings
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cheaper and easier to order the pipe just incase then,i shall have to do this at the end of month when im off
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With all this talk about thermostat issues,what is the life span of a thermostat then ?
Reason for asking is I assume a brand new thermosta would work noticeably better than one which has been in car for atleast 6 years or 130k so is it worth the effort in this part being replaced just for extra peace of mind. Now I am not dreaming up work or changing parts for parts sake but if venturing inside the V of the engine for the extra bit of work would it be a wise part to replace
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I purchased a thermostat and housing last year for my 2.5 1996 but never fitted it .Will this be ok for my 2003 2.6.
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Anyone got a part number for the transfer pipe ?
What about the 3 red o-rings that go between the black plate and the manifold that is attached to the plenum, are they worth replacing or just grease up, I going on the fact it's a 1996 car and they maybe have never been changed even though the cam cover gaskets were done 15k miles ago.
Thanks
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With all this talk about thermostat issues,what is the life span of a thermostat then ? .....
After 8 yrs of ownership I replaced mine the other week, I assume it was the original. The car is 13 yrs old this summer with 175k miles. ;) ;) ;)
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I purchased a thermostat and housing last year for my 2.5 1996 but never fitted it .Will this be ok for my 2003 2.6.
Can't see why not. The only thing I've heard of that's different is the thickness of the housing flange could be thinner on the new one (mine was the same as the old part :-\), so you need either, shorter bolts (hacksaw ;))or a couple of washers under each bolt head to prevent the bolts from 'bottoming out' before they tighten the 'stat housing to the block. :y
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thanks Andy will check thickness prior to fitting when the weather improves.