Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Rich-K on 14 February 2012, 13:59:55
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The car is a Vectra 2.0 dti cdx y reg 114000 miles, which I believe uses the same engine as some Omega dti's.
The scenario, when starting engine from cold, usually starts without too much problem. After driving 2 to 3 miles, rev counter suddenly drops to zero and engine emissions light comes on. Engine seems to run fine but feels very sluggish and underpowered (especially uphill). When engine idling sounds a bit rough and feels as if its about to stall, but picks up when accelerator pedal pressed. Also trip computer stops registering mpg and fuel range. After a few minutes every thing returns to normal. The problem only started last week after the car had been in for its mot. Passed test with no mention of anything untoward.
Has any one else encountered similar issues?
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If it was a VW, I would almost instantly say Crank Sensor ?
Not sure about Vectra though, but faults sound similar.
:-\
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If it was a VW, I would almost instantly say Crank Sensor ?
Not sure about Vectra though, but faults sound similar.
:-\
If it is this sensor, are we talking about a full engine strip down, or it something easily accessible. Is there a "quick fix" that can be done on temporary basis until such time as can fixed properly?
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Sounds like crank sensor to me too. Can be done from underneath quite easily and doesn't take long at all. Just don't put a none Vauxhall one in it if you want it to last.
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crankshaft sensor,on the zafira i lost rev and also had water circulation light on,its just behind the metal turbo pipe and below the oil filter housing :y
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As said, the crank sensor is used by the e.c.u. to supply the rev counter on 2.0 and 2.2 DTi's. From memory very easy to access, located under the oil filter housing screwed into the engine block.
Try to buy grnuine Bosch/Siemens parts only... best avoid E-bay!
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Thanks for all the responses. Am having car computer tested to diagnosed fault. Will post results asap.
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Just got car back from computer scan test. Guess what !! The "local" (for local read backstreet) garage have said the diesel injection pump is krackered!!!!!!!! £700 + thankyou very much!!!!!!! They also said their computer doesn't give a printout of the scan results.
I'm not convinced about that, and I'm getting a second opinion.
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It's the crankshaft sensor - Similar symptoms to here:-
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90640.msg1155585#msg1155585
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Just got car back from computer scan test. Guess what !! The "local" (for local read backstreet) garage have said the diesel injection pump is krackered!!!!!!!! £700 + thankyou very much!!!!!!! They also said their computer doesn't give a printout of the scan results.
I'm not convinced about that, and I'm getting a second opinion.
I think not!
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Now had second computer scan test. Found following fault codes 1631, 725, 400, 1635, & 0110. Can anyone please tell me what these codes mean.
I have also cleaned the EGR valve and port, but no difference.
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Now had second computer scan test. Found following fault codes 1631, 725, 400, 1635, & 0110. Can anyone please tell me what these codes mean.
I have also cleaned the EGR valve and port, but no difference.
P1631 Injection Pump Control Unit.
P0725 Engine RPM input; circuit malfunction.
P0400 EGR system malfunction.
P1635 Glow-plug control module.
P0110 IAT sensor.
If it were my car then I'd check the crank sensor is generating the correct signal (live data or oscilloscope) and that this signal is reaching the ECU intact...
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Having had the car computer scanned at 2 different establisments, and faults diagnosed as fuel injection pump, EGR valve and even main ECU fault. I opted to resolve the issue myself, and splashed out the princeley sum of £33.80 on a new crank sensor. Working in confined space in my parents garage with the front of the car on ramps. 2 hours and several cups of tea later I now have a new crank sensor fitted. Engine fired up first time, idling fine even after warm up, drove home (approx 10 miles) with no problems, and no warning lights and a rev counter that works. The trip computer is also giving more sensible readings regarding mpg and fuel range.
Thanks to all the OOFers who responded, I guess the moral of the story is to listen to all the advice and then go for the cheapest option first.
Once again many thanks.
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I guess the moral of the story is to listen to all the advice and then go for the cheapest option first.
Not at all, the moral of the story is that fault codes only indicate what is not currently working and do not indicate the reason why they are not working.
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I guess the moral of the story is to listen to all the advice and then go for the cheapest option first.
Not at all, the moral of the story is that fault codes only indicate what is not currently working and do not indicate the reason why they are not working.
Sage words indeed that many in the motor trade would do well to understand. ::)
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I guess the moral of the story is to listen to all the advice and then go for the cheapest option first.
Not at all, the moral of the story is that fault codes only indicate what is not currently working and do not indicate the reason why they are not working.
Sage words indeed that many in the motor trade would do well to understand. ::)
OK, point taken.