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1

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 98% dead electrical Windows omega 2.2dti 2001mod

« on: 14 October 2011, 20:10:02 »

you need to release some of the clips holding the loom to the door to give yourself some slack.  The socket will come out of the door going towards the front of the car.  It has 3 clips around its perimeter which hold it in place, these all need to be pressed towards the centre of the socket so that it can be released.  It's a bit of a fiddly job though. 

This topic starts to be a littel old but so does also my electrical problem:)
Anyway, I remove all harness from the door for to better be able to control the plug. I am 100% sure that there is no problem in the plug (female or male part) or in the harness between door or chassis. I meassure 10.2 volts in the wire. I now believe that i have to check the relay witch is supplying the window controler (switch in the door). I am pretty sure that the same relay turning off accessory power (i.e. door light) also supply electric for window. As mentioned earlier window engine has 12 V regadless time or ignition staus. Differens is after 5 minutes 30 sec after turning off ignition and removing the key I hear a quite significan "pling" in an relay behind the fuse boks. After this power is turned off there is no longer power for the window controller either:) When i have time I will check these 3 relays, at the moment I believe it is the green relay in charge here... so I will keep you posted. Sadly the Haynes book dont mention these relays in their wire diagrams. If any posess diagram containg these relays I would be happy if you would share it with me.

Thanks

2

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 98% dead electrical Windows omega 2.2dti 2001mod

« on: 05 October 2011, 18:55:35 »

I feel I maybe need to be clearer...
I need to remove (unfasten) the socket IN the door, what trix do I need to know to do this. Harness (cable) from chassis is already very easy unplugged

3

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 98% dead electrical Windows omega 2.2dti 2001mod

« on: 05 October 2011, 18:37:46 »

Yes! My problem was this evening located to the connection plug in the door ! Then a new problem arise ... how to unfasten the plug in the door so it will be available to "visible inspection". Door panel and +++ is of course already  removed, but I do not find it obvious how to unfasten this plug... Any suggestions?

Frank

4

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 98% dead electrical Windows omega 2.2dti 2001mod

« on: 05 October 2011, 05:36:56 »

Check the wiring connector on your drivers door. 

Yep, sounds like a bad connection. First place to look is the big multi-pin connector between the door hinges. It should have a red locking tab in it. Remove this and then turn plug anti-clockwise to undo. Check pins for signs of damage or corrosion from water ingress. 

Yes! I have disconnected this plug numerous time, by the way it looks like it left the factory yesterday. There is absolutely no signs of damage or corrosion. But of course this is a potentional place to bee the source of my problem it need to be checked. Right now I am waiting for a plug from the scrapyard to arrive, then it should be easier to test the electrical engine on this window. In this I mean that I can supply signal with 12V... if this works i will back trace, next on program it will be to supply the window control switch with 12V. I guess (hope) this will give me some answer

frank

5

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / 98% dead electrical Windows omega 2.2dti 2001mod

« on: 04 October 2011, 20:28:53 »

Hi! I have a problem to electrical operate all electical windows in my Omega, the regulation of the electical mirrors are also not working at all. I have done some work to locate the the foult and I have some findings. For starters i have checked and excluded the switch/controller in the drivers door. I have tested this on a different Omega and it works. The switch/controller from the other car did not work on my car. This should mean that this item is not the problem?!
Further I find that fuse no 1 supply el. engine in the door with 12.3V (red 2.5 mm2 cable), this is meassured at the plug for el.window in the door, ground cable (brown 2.5 mm2). is also checked between mentioned + and ground in the plug and give same resultate 12.3V. So apperantly there is no problem here.
It starts to be interesting when i check the voltage (still at the plug for el. window engine in the door) for the signal up and down. Cable (up 0.5 mm2 green/grey, down 0.5mm2 blue/red) when operate the switch at the controller I find a voltage 9.88V, similar at both cables (up/down). I find that fuse no 13 10A is supplying the electrical window and mirror controller (window switch drivers door) with the current for signal for operating window and mirror. When extracting this fuse I find the voltage to be 10.3V between the sockets in the fuse box. I believe that this is also somewhat too low?! BUT when i meassure the voltage between the + socket in the fuse box and ground in the chassis I find 12.3V, quite normal! There is one cable in this plug not yet mentioned by me and that is an brown/black 0.5mm2, at this one i meassure 0.1V regardless what i do, maybe signal for remote close window with key? By the way remote close window with key seems not to work on my car, but this is an uninteresting problem at this stage unless it is linked with my current problem!

What dazzle me is that window sometimes (but seldom) work as normal a brief period, I feel this is linked to the operation of the door, stops working after moving the door. This should indicate thet there might be a foult in the harness, but the voltage is contstant regardless how much i move, push or pull the harness between the door and chassis. I imagine that there at least should be some changes in the voltage if the foult is lokalized here?

I have no idea for where to look for malfunction parts, anyone having an idea? I wonder if there might be any relay in this equation that does not give good enough contact? But my theory is weak because I can not find any relay at the electrical drawings.

Please any smart ideas out there? Please forgive my Norwegian English:)

Frank

6

Omega General Help / Re: Omega B 1994 Key inside I am outside

« on: 26 September 2011, 21:19:50 »

dont think this should be discussed in open chat as any one can use info to get in an omega. should pm to him.

Hmm..fair point there, but the suggestions are all common knowledge stuff.

Framsdal: This may sound like a daft question but, where is the spare key ? (Please don't say 'Safe'...in the glovebox. )     

I am sorry to say that I am one of the Intelligent people that keep the spare key in the small kompartment down to the left for the steering wheel. I had an stupid thouhgt about this idea and i dear not to tell what it was...well the idea was if i were on any trip far from home and loos my original key I always knew where to find the spare. It means thet i was prepared to break any window if the NEED WAS EXTREEM and then i would not have any problem withe the electronic start lock (or what it is called in English).

Yes i might have brought tis up on my selves and I am not exactly bragging over this genious idea So please do not mention how daft i am... because I FULLY understand it:)

Anyway the need to com into the car is not extreem right now, i have the time to test different solutions before i need to change a window.

truly humbeled
Frank

7

Omega General Help / Re: Omega B 1994 Key inside I am outside

« on: 25 September 2011, 22:16:38 »

The 'plastic strip' method is difficult on the Omega as there is no lip on the upper edge of the button for the strip to catch on. You could try something like thin bare wire that may cut into the plastic to enable the wire to have enough hold to pull up the button.
Another option would be using the same wire but a longer length to hook onto the chrome door pull lever. This worked for me with a Mercedes SLK. Wasn't exactly a 'Gone In 60 Seconds' job, but it worked.

Hm! I understand what you are saying. But is there any experience here with the "car thief from film trix", Thin iron bar with an hook to jerk the rods inside the door, beteween the door pull lever and the lock?

anyway thank a lot for the ideas.

8

Omega General Help / Re: Omega B 1994 Key inside I am outside

« on: 25 September 2011, 22:02:23 »

You should be able to slip a doubled up strip of plastic, between the door and the "B" post, you can then manoeuvre it towards the button, by pushing one piece and holding the other steady, you can loop the tape over the button. Then you pull on both and the button pops up. Difficult to explain, but when you try it, you will see how easy it is.

Thanks a lot! I can not wait until tomorrow to try your tip

Best regards Frank

9

Omega General Help / Re: Omega B 1994 Key inside I am outside

« on: 25 September 2011, 21:50:57 »

The car can not be deadlocked, so you should be able to lift the button with a strip of plastic, the type used for binding parcels.

Sorry you lost me here... can you please describe a little, do you mean incerting plastic strip between the door panel and window  from the outside... or?

10

Omega General Help / Re: Omega B 1994 Key inside I am outside

« on: 25 September 2011, 21:36:01 »

its an caravan, and yes all car is firmly locked...

11

Omega General Help / Omega B 1994 Key inside I am outside

« on: 25 September 2011, 21:26:48 »

Hi all!

Is there any good solutions to get inside the car without a key, code and smashing any windows? I have an Omega B 1994 and the remote control is an IR. I belive that an quite serious thunder storm locked my car because i never lock my car at home. Well... before the storm it was open, after the storm i found the car locked with the key <at its normal place> in the consol between the seats .

Is it possible to try the old trix with an thin iron bar between the window and the door panel? I guess then i have to get a "grip" on the small rod between lock servo and the lock itselves. Any point of wiew here?

brgds Frank