Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

1

Omega General Help / Re: Clutch/Gearbox help and advice needed

« on: 16 May 2008, 12:17:06 »

sounds like a lot of play in the dmf to me!!!

  really? unless im mistaken they are VVVV expensive?

Cost of replacement aside, straightforward job to do? can anybody explain what the dmf actually does? or is there something else i should be checking  :-/

2

Omega General Help / Re: Clutch/Gearbox help and advice needed

« on: 16 May 2008, 10:58:39 »

Thanks Entwood, that thought had occoured to me so i checked when bleeding the Clutch, no movement at all!

Could the linkage from stick to box have play etc, can such things even be adjusted or is it a case of removing?  :-/

Any one else? I am perticularly interested in the symptoms of the broken flywheel, more to put my mind at rest than anything.

Thanks

Rich

3

Omega General Help / Clutch/Gearbox help and advice needed

« on: 15 May 2008, 12:58:54 »

Hi all

I am in desperate need of some guidance as this is now really getting on my T**S!

Ever since i have owned the car the Gearbox has been a bit notchy and there is a clunk (not loud) when i depress the clutch in either reverse or 1st gear at low speeds. At first the clutch pedal was quite heavy and stiff, however a reverse bleed of the clutch (following your sound advice here) has resulted in a light and smooth action. However, the notchy shift and clunking remains, grrr. Now to be as specific as i can to aid diagnosis: the main notchyness is when changing from 1st to 2nd at low-medium engine speeds and 2nd to 3rd again at low-medium engine speeds. Changing from 3rd to 4th, 4th to 5th and coming back down the gears is all fine with a nice smooth action. Equally when driving hard the shifts are perfect, not notchy or clunky in any way, yet a different symptom then arises. When shifting up at or near the redline, the whole system seems really 'sluggish' even with the newley bled clutch, ie, seems to take a second for the clutch to disengage before the shift can be completed quickly and smoothly. In comparison to everything else that i drive/have driven. Also should you fail to come of the clutch smoothly it does judder slightly, but it does not slip even under heavy load.

I have lived with this for 15 months now and to be honest when anyone else drives it they cant see what my problem is, but as im sure you all agree, when you want to enjoy driving your pride and joy (and blowing away your enthusiast mates who drive Ford Racing Pumas ) it becomes irritating to say the least. I have no problem with taking it apart to fit a new clutch etc etc should that be the problem, but i dont want to spend loads of cash, not to mention the time to replace, when the problem could be eleswhere, especially as you guys generally seem to say that the clutch should be lasting 150.000K, mine has done 85.000K. Im dreading the possibilty of the Dual Mass Flywheel being broken - anyone know what the symptoms would be?

Any suggestions or guidance would be greatfully recieved!

Many Thanks

Rich

One final point which may or maynot be relevant, the gear stick seems to have quite a lot of play in it when the gear is engaged, especially 3rd. It shakes quite a lot at idle, and my car idles really smooth.  

4

Omega General Help / Re: Wheel wobble......

« on: 21 August 2007, 11:44:07 »

Thanks guys

I will double check the wheel bearings.

What exactly on the steering column should I be checking for?

Stu

Hi mate,

Does the column itself wobble up and down or side to side? or is there play bettween moving the steering wheel and the wheels moving (best checked with engine running and power steering system on!) the play in the steering is easily adjusted via an adjustment bolt on top of the steering box, can make a huge difference! if wobble is present in the column it may indicate worn linkage.

sounds like a frustrating problem (and expensive!!) my sympathy  

rich

5

Omega General Help / Re: correct brake bleed sequence 99 pre facelift

« on: 23 August 2007, 16:51:50 »

Yup, inch to inch and half above the brake pedal...

Thanks! that puts my mind at rest.  

6

Omega General Help / Re: correct brake bleed sequence 99 pre facelift

« on: 23 August 2007, 15:34:59 »

Sounds like you have had an interesting, if frustrating, day.  

I would think about sourcing a replacement caliper from one of the cars being broken on here.  That way you can be confident that all fluid is new and little risk of it boiling if the old stuff is left in the caliper with the duff nipple.

Hmmm could say that! i might try getting whats left of the nipple out, but i suspect it will be easier to just replace the whole thing  

Notice you have the same as me how does your clutch pedal sit?

7

Omega General Help / Re: correct brake bleed sequence 99 pre facelift

« on: 23 August 2007, 15:03:40 »

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

right then. All done but.........

Got to the os front caliper, and couldnt find the bleed nipple. closer inspection reveals that at some point in the past it has been sheared off by some moron leaving whats left flush with the caliper body.

So i have 3 nicely bled calipers and one not.   pedal is much firmer with more bite, and it doesnt pull to either side (which i thought it might) so seems like its ok for now, but its obviously not good to have one which still has old fluid in. Do i leave it for now and worry about replacing the caliper untill its time to change the fluid again or should i move it to the top of the '2 do list' ?

Also bled the clutch as suggested resulting in a much lighter and smoother pedal   but it still sits high, a good 2cm higher than the brake pedal. are they all like this?

Thanks

Rich

8

Omega General Help / Re: correct brake bleed sequence 99 pre facelift

« on: 21 August 2007, 16:09:30 »

Thanks.

Was going to try the reverse bleed procedure......

but have just picked myself up a pressure bleed kit, which basically uses the pressure from a spare wheel to force the fluid through, eliminating the need for pressing pedals.

would this work on the clutch as well (it says it should in the instructions) and my understanding is that the problem with bleeding the clutch the 'conventional' way is air getting trapped in the vertical pipe down from the reservoir. would a pressure kit such as this eliminate this problem??

as always help apreciated, just want to get it right first time if poss!!

9

Omega General Help / correct brake bleed sequence 99 pre facelift

« on: 21 August 2007, 14:45:08 »

Guys

Had a look at the maintinance guide, it says that the brakes must be bled in that order for pre 98 cars. Is it the same for a 99 pre facelift?

also should i bleed the clutch before or after the brakes?

Thanks

Rich

10

Omega General Help / Re: Manual Gearbox issues

« on: 16 August 2007, 22:38:08 »

Thanks for the info!

I might be brave enough to have a go myself!  :-/

I have been quoted £450 'ish' to replace the clutch at the local garage, but as the mechanic puts it 'you know these have a dualmass flywheel..........'

Will haynes cover this work well enough? or should i be looking somewhere else for a good diy guide? i think i will have a go, but want to be clued up first

One other question, sorry. would bleeding the clutch make any difference? and do i not have to bleed it anyway if i replace the clutch? only the fluid in the resevoir is murky and dark brown, and the brakes are not as sharp as they should be, i was thinking this may make the clutch action heavy etc......

Thanks again for all the help

11

Omega General Help / Re: Manual Gearbox issues

« on: 15 August 2007, 21:24:16 »

Thanks for the comprehensive replys!

Some more info that may/maynot be relevent! The gearbox is much slicker for the first 5mins or so of driving untill warm. and it is far noisier when warm. The clutch on the other hand is stiff and softens slightly as it warms up. The Juddering is only present when insuficient revs are used, it rarely does it when im driving but perhaps i have udjusted style to compensate?!

Also relevant is that the car has only covered an indicated 80.000 miles, 10.000 covered by me. Which is supported by a stamped service book, for what thats worth :-/ so am a bit concerned.

The only clutch i have attempted was on a Rover 216 (no laughing) which was a pain in the ass, had to drop the engine to get the box off. but what i am most worried about is the flywheel. Is it easyenough to change, assuming i can get one? and any idea on cost?

Thanks again

rich

12

Omega General Help / Manual Gearbox issues

« on: 15 August 2007, 10:47:07 »

Hi Guys

The shift action on my MV6 is a bit like stiring coal at the moment, notchy and clunky, especially 2nd to 3rd. This is at least in part down to my clutch being on its way out, Symptoms are heavy pedal sitting 'high' and a slow action. can also feel 'juddering' from the clutch plate when pulling away unless the revs are right.

Funds are a bit tight at the mo, so was going to try changing the oil in the gearbox to see if it improves matters. The oil filler/level hole looks easy to get to when jacked up (with axle stands of course) but how about actually getting the oil in? and then checking the level with the car back down on the ground?

Is it worth doing? or should i bite the bullet and fork out the £500 odd quid for the clutch? :-/

Thanks

rich

13

Omega General Help / Re: tyre pressures

« on: 14 August 2007, 17:12:28 »

i would keep it at 30psi on a 19rim with that low profile, any more will probably make the ride bone crunching!!

14

Omega General Help / Re: mv6 or elite

« on: 14 August 2007, 17:08:40 »

thanks for the reply

i have the performance figures as 2.5v6 is 170bhp and the 3.0 210bhp ish while i have been ignoring all the 2.5s that i come across is there much of a difference in performance on the road and what are the problems omegas have, what should i watch out for when i inspect them.


edit* i know i want a prefacelift model (prefer the look) do the mini facelift models (98-99) have better engines or upgrades or something

Yes there is quite a big difference, when shopping for mine i drove a number of 2.5s before a 3.0, no contest so long as you dont mind frequent trips to the petrol station! the difference especially mid range ie 30 - 70mph is impressive

15

Omega General Help / Re: 3.0 V6 MPG

« on: 06 August 2007, 12:34:35 »

low 20s day to day, and up to 35 on a long run depending on how heavy your foot is

can go as low as 9mpg when thrashing though