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Messages - geoprea1989

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1
Dear colleagues,

I opened this thread because I'm running out of ideas with the troubleshooting of my Omega's clutch/gearbox.

On the past months the clutch began slipping and on the last two weeks it happened even on the 2nd and 3rd gear, so I was thinking that after 200k km maybe it's time to replace the whole clutch kit :)
No problem with this, after searching this forum and the Internet and got opinions from many drivers I decided to buy a Sachs kit as I know this is a premium one.
Having the new kit in front of me, a packet of biscuits and the Omega Owners forum opened in my browser I read the thread made by JamesV6CDX [which by the way I want to thank him for the tutorial] and decided that I can give it a try and replace the clutch kit by myself with the help of my brother.
During the "surgery" we cleaned the bell of the gearbox from the debris done by the ex-clutch disk and checked the slave cylinder for visible leaks and if it was moving easily on the axle. We also cleaned the flywheel and all the surroundings for the remaining debris.
The whole kit was installed correctly using a tool like James had with the disk markings arranged as they should, "facing gearbox" and "facing engine".
After we finished aligning and installing the new kit and put everything back together, the gearbox and the exhaust mountings I moved to the air screw to change the fluid and remove the air bubbles that may have entered the pipes during the clutch swap.

Here comes the fun part, so bear with me :)

The first km everything ran smooth, it entered gears easily, shifting gears was smooth and that was calling for celebration, you know, a cuppa, as James said, haha :)
After washing our hands and changed our clothes we decided to take it for a ride, but after the next 1-2 km it began the fun part, or to better say, the most annoying part.
Switching to the 1st and the reverse gears was getting harder and harder as like the clutch wasn't disengaging or the linkage between the gear stick and the gearbox was misaligned. After we arrived back home we rechecked the pipes for air, re-flushed the fluid and greased the linkage to both the gearbox and the gear stick, both inside and underneath the car, as these were the easiest operations to be done.
The bad thing is that nothing changed, so after taking it for another ride, we tried one more time flushing the fluid.
Flushing the fluid again didn't helped us at all so we made a step further with our troubleshooting and replaced the master cylinder.
We replaced the master cylinder, flushed the fluid again, but unfortunately, nothing changed, the pedal wasn't stiff at all and switching gears with the car not moving was very hard.
We found out that with the clutch pedal fully kicked down, when you try to shift first and the reverse gears, the car moves very very slowly, like the clutch isn't disengaging at it's maximum.

So, before buying the slave cylinder and replacing the actual one which looks very good and that isn't leaking at all, do you have any advice for us like what to check or look for?

As a short summary, right now, the car behaves like:
- it's very hard to shift the first and the reverse gear with the car stopped but with the engine running
- while the car is moving, or the wheels are spinning, even a little, it's very easy to change gears
- if you start the engine with the pedal pressed you can shift gears easily, but if you take your foot off the pedal, the next time you want to enter the gear it is a real pain in the a*s
- if you first try to switch to 2nd gear, with the wheels not spinning, then you can somehow ease the shift to first and the reverse gears, like there's something misaligned

Bottom line, hope I didn't got you bored with this issue, but it's better to describe everything in detail than to raise other related questions :)
Hope you got some other ideas because I'm running out of and the slave cylinder's price is higher than the price for the whole clutch kit and as far as I know, if the slave cylinder isn't leaking, it should still be good for further use.

Thanks,
George

2
Hello,

I know that everyone recommends to use only OE parts, but currently I cannot afford buying an OE camshaft sensor as it costs about 150 Euro.

The thing is that I cannot replace it just by guessing that this might be the problem on such money :)

Any other ideas why does the battery connect/reconnect fixes this issue?

Thanks,
George

3
Dear Omega fellows,

I have an 1995 Opel Omega with an X20XEV engine and for the past 8 years I had no significant problems.

The only problem I had with was the faulty camshaft sensor that had to be replaced twice, but I read this is a common issue for this engine.

Why twice, maybe you wonder... :)

With the second sensor, every time I started the engine, the MIL light turned on and the car ran in LIMP mode, but if I quickly took the ignition and turned it on, the MIL light turned OFF and the car worked as it should, or at least that's what I believe.

I compared it's values with the Autodata ones and there were big differences in it's resistance across it's pins and the error was stored as an intermittent fault according to "My Naff Code Reader".

Thinking that this is not very safe for my car, I gone further and replaced this sensor with a third one.

That being set, I bought a new sensor, aftermarket of course, and for the past 2-3 months everything was fine, but in the last week I began having strange issues with the first cold start of the day.

The engine turns, the pump from the tank pumps, I have pressure on the rail, the spark plugs are sparking, but the engine just won't start up if it doesn't crank for about 10 seconds.

This only happens with the first start-up of the day, no matter if it's warm or cold outside, sunny or raining, morning or noon, what can I say, my car has it's own personality :)

As a strange workaround I found that if I pop the positive lead from the battery for half a second and then crank the engine, it starts in a blink.

The workaround works even if I do this before cranking, or after a long 3-4 seconds crank, or a couple of tries.

I checked the values of the new sensor and are the same as the ones from Autodata.

I connected the tester to my car, "My Naff Code Reader", but there are no codes stored and I don't see any changes within the values.

Thus I think this is an electrical problem, but I currently don't know where to begin from.

I even redone the connection between the short wiring loom from the sensor's plug and the wiring harness of the car.

Tonight I'm going to replace the new sensor with the old one to check if there's any improvement, or at least a quick start-up, but if nothing changes, that doesn't look very good.

The next step will be checking the ignition coil, but I'm not sure if that's a problem since it makes the spark plugs spark, and it responds fine to the "My Naff Code Reader" tests for the two bank coils.

I just cannot explain this workaround, if I disconnect and reconnect the battery lead [even before putting the key in the ignition barrel] and after then I crank the engine, it starts immediately.

Given these, did anyone here had the same issues/symptoms as above and found a fix?

Thank you in advance for your help and ideas,
George

P.S.: I know I wrote a lot, but hope I didn't got you bored yet :)

4
Hi woodoo!

Many thanks for your help and sorry for the late reply but lately I was kinda' busy with my job.
Hope tomorrow morning to install the aftermarket alarm system in my car.
I'll let you know if everything went right.

Thanks,
George

5
Hello again!

Well, another week passed and I'm still trying to figure out which wire is which.
I don't know if I'm wrong or not, but untill now I found that grounding the brown/white wire will unlock the doors and grounding the brown/red will lock them.
Hope this infos will help others in my situation and I will come back with a reply as soon as I'll find what are the other wire colours necesary for installing the aftermarket central locking kit.

George

6
Hi all, thank you very much for your replyes, and sorry for my late reply but I had some trouble with my car because someone crashed it when I was passing a junction. He turned left without assuring that there is no one on the other way. The good part is that tonight I'll get it painted at the service.

Well... the ideea is that all I have on my car is the central locking and no remote, just the key.
Why I don't want an original keyless entry is because I couldn't find it elsewhere in Romania excepting the Dealer and the price there is very high. And the second reason why I'd like to install an aftermarket system is because my brother already bought me one kit for my birthday because he knew how much I wanted one. If you can understand me ;)

So, I'll really appreciate your help if you can assist me installing this keyless entry.

Thanks,
George

7
Hello,

I'm reading your topics for a while as a guest and now it's my time to post on this forum.
I'm requesting your advices to install an aftermarket keyless entry to my Omega, because I'm having problems with my keylock and I'm tired of wasting a couple of minutes every time I want to enter my car.
The problem is that I don't know where to connect the alarm "brain".
Can someone help me by replying the wire colours of the central locking and the location where I should do these splices?
If I'm not wrong, the splicing should be made near the central locking module. One more thing, where is this module located?
I want to mention that my car is LHD.
I'm looking forward for your help.

Meny thanks in advance,
George

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