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General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: Yesterday at 21:21:24 »
Kinky
- 17 November 2025, 14:05:14
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3
Omega General Help / Re: Replacing rubber around windshield
« on: 15 November 2025, 01:05:25 »
It can be done because I've done it.
To remove the good one, I would suggest using a pick tool to get the tongue started out of the retainer, and use some silicone lubricant to slide the pick tool between the lowest part of the tongue and against the retainer making sure that it isn't distorted. If it bends significantly (ie by pulling it up by hand) the likelihood it won't sit properly on refitting.
Make sure the tongue is spotlessly clean of any grit or crud, as is the retainer. Lightly lubricate the tongue with either red rubber grease or silicone spray, position the moulding so that the top curve is exactly in position, the start gently thumb the tongue into the retainer at one end regularly checking that the top corner will still sit in the correct position. Go easy on it and take your time exerting a firm constant pressure as you go round the moulding, and it will go on easily. You will feel when it slots correctly into the groove on the retainer.
There is a good chance that some of the bonding used on the windscreen fitment may be in contact with and support the retainer in part but don't be hamfisted and keep its profile as flat as possible when removing/ refitting and you should be able to do it ok
To remove the good one, I would suggest using a pick tool to get the tongue started out of the retainer, and use some silicone lubricant to slide the pick tool between the lowest part of the tongue and against the retainer making sure that it isn't distorted. If it bends significantly (ie by pulling it up by hand) the likelihood it won't sit properly on refitting.
Make sure the tongue is spotlessly clean of any grit or crud, as is the retainer. Lightly lubricate the tongue with either red rubber grease or silicone spray, position the moulding so that the top curve is exactly in position, the start gently thumb the tongue into the retainer at one end regularly checking that the top corner will still sit in the correct position. Go easy on it and take your time exerting a firm constant pressure as you go round the moulding, and it will go on easily. You will feel when it slots correctly into the groove on the retainer.
There is a good chance that some of the bonding used on the windscreen fitment may be in contact with and support the retainer in part but don't be hamfisted and keep its profile as flat as possible when removing/ refitting and you should be able to do it ok
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Omega General Help / Re: Colour codes
« on: 13 November 2025, 00:36:00 »
According to this paint supplier, 82U is.
https://ebay.us/m/xn4xMj
https://ebay.us/m/xn4xMj
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General Discussion Area / Re: Bangers and Cash: Restoring Classics
« on: 11 November 2025, 23:36:35 »
Fella that bought it (from Scotland) said he wasn't going to use it, just take it 3 miles for it's MOT every year, but sit around with his mates admiring it :-\t...... rather strange, but there you go....
YG03FNV. Looked a good solid example - not my favourite colour, but that's subjective I suppose...
YG03FNV. Looked a good solid example - not my favourite colour, but that's subjective I suppose...
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Omega General Help / Re: Removing Omega scuttle?
« on: 04 November 2025, 16:41:16 »
I'm always nice to my Omegas and every aspect of them!
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Omega General Help / Re: Removing Omega scuttle?
« on: 04 November 2025, 10:55:20 »All I will say is that not every Omega is a low mileage, garage kept cream puff and the plastic frame the rubbers clip into get filled with detritus and become brittle, not to mention that the frames can slip off the edge of the glass unnoticed. Particularly if they're pattern or the original ones have been used on replacement screens.
The frames and rubbers are fitted to the screen BEFORE it gets fitted to the car.
I short, unless you know the history of the screen, all bets are off when it comes to the screen trims.
That's from having at least 4 screens fitted to a couple of ex plod cars that had previously poorly fitted cars. My '54 plate had Autonoglass come back twice to refit one screen because they didn't understand/care how the screen was supposed to be fitted.
But none of that has changed from anything that I said 10/12 years ago.
You are correct - not every Omega is a low mileage garage kept cream puff (cream puff - strange reference...??) - mine certainly isn't as it has lived outside in the elements since I bought it in 2014. As I said, there are no issues whatsoever with the trim and the plastic retainers on mine, and as long as they are treated with care (as with most components on any car), the rubber lower trim can be removed and refitted as required.
The fact you have experienced shortcomings with windscreen fitment, doesn't mean your issues or experiences are gospel - there is more than one way to skin a cat as they say.
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Omega General Help / Re: Removing Omega scuttle?
« on: 03 November 2025, 23:01:34 »Removing the seal opens a whole can of worms.
Why? I have done it several times over the years and it hasn't caused any problems at all. As long as the lip.on the seal.and the groove in the retainer are clean then it simply slots back in the groove easily with the aid of the slightest smear of red rubber grease, which also aids its future removal if need be.
But if you are hamfisted, then it may well do.
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Omega General Help / Re: Removing Omega scuttle?
« on: 03 November 2025, 20:46:46 »
If you haven't done already, you will also need to remove the hidden twist clips under the lower windscreen seal. You can access them by lifting the edge of the seal up and loosening them with a wide flat blade screw driver, and a pair of angled long nose pliers, although I find it simpler to just remove the seal completely and refit it when done.
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Omega General Help / Re: ATP
« on: 30 October 2025, 12:10:07 »hi johnny .hope all is well .
i must admit i have to agree with mr DG on this one .undo lower shock bolt and have an assistant press down the hub with their foot and springs come out or go in .
ive done few omega springs and also carlton /senators like this as well as more modern stuff too .
I'll have to try and recruit someone with a bit of weight Chris next time I need to do a spring change!
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Omega General Help / Re: ATP
« on: 30 October 2025, 08:27:31 »Undo the lower shock bolt and hang off the hub and you can pretty much drop the springs in
Not in my experience you can't. Having changed umpteen sets of rear springs on my Elites over the years, yes, I agree, undo the lower shock mounting, but you also need to disconnect the rear track control arm (I find it simpler at the inboard end) to allow the swinging arm to drop further. Even so, the springs have to be compressed to allow removal and refitting, but due to the lack of space to fit spring compressors, this is a challenge. There's no room to fit the large compressors with plates, so you have to resort to using the smaller hook type.
I would argue there is no way of removing the spring by just undoing the lower shock mount and levering the swing arm down, which isn't helped with the protrusion of the spring seat down the centre of the spring.
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General Car Chat / Re: Vectra b question
« on: 17 October 2025, 23:04:23 »
If it's the same as the Omega, if you disconnect he battery terminals and then leave it for a while (maybe an hour - someone else may be able advise on this - I left mine for longer) to 'de-energise' the airbags etc or whatever the term is, you can then unplug the seat / airbag plugs, do whatever you have to before reconnecting them. Don't reconnect the battery or turn the ignition on with the seats plugs disconnected or you will get an airbag fault light.
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Omega General Help / Re: ATP
« on: 17 October 2025, 22:09:31 »
Bilt Hamber products are also very good too.
The chassis rail is reinforced above the mounting by the ABS sensor clip, but they also tend to rust and corroded through in the areas either side of that reinforced section as the metal is thinner / weaker.
The chassis rail is reinforced above the mounting by the ABS sensor clip, but they also tend to rust and corroded through in the areas either side of that reinforced section as the metal is thinner / weaker.
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Omega General Help / Re: ATP
« on: 17 October 2025, 21:39:22 »
After a reasonable clean up (but don't grind all the rust off , just the majority of the crusty stuff as you need some surface rust for it to be effective and the metal will be also be weaker) I use Dinitrol RC900 followed by a coating of Dinitrol 3125, finished off with Dinitrol 4841.
If you Google them, you can decide if they are suitable for your use.
You can also use a nozzle to spray the RC900 through the cut outs in the chassis rail to arrest any corrosion around the subframe mounting points in the chassis rail where they usually rust. You can spray rust proofing wax coatings in their as well, but if any welding is required at a later date, then heat and some wax based products can set your car alight, so it's worth checking the spec sheet before you apply any into the box sections if subsequent welding is a possibility.
If you Google them, you can decide if they are suitable for your use.
You can also use a nozzle to spray the RC900 through the cut outs in the chassis rail to arrest any corrosion around the subframe mounting points in the chassis rail where they usually rust. You can spray rust proofing wax coatings in their as well, but if any welding is required at a later date, then heat and some wax based products can set your car alight, so it's worth checking the spec sheet before you apply any into the box sections if subsequent welding is a possibility.
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Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Haunted Interior Light
« on: 07 October 2025, 13:17:38 »
I'm not the only one to have experienced virtually the same symptons - combined with the 'key in' warning buzzer sound being rather strangled, interior light staying on but extinguishing with the sidelights on, central locking issues etc etc.
There are topics on this issue if you search on here.
Seemed to get worse during very wet weather.
With the advise of 'cam-in-head', plus a fair degree of head scratching, it was traced to a previous water ingress issue in the drivers kick panel area causing damage to the central locking ecu. Mine was primarily as a result of previous water ingress problem from a broken pipe from the offside sunroof drain - the water was running across the headlining and behind the A pillar trim , down behind the door stay into drivers side footwell. Once I replaced the broken connector from the sunroof drain, I replaced the c/l ECU with a known used one with the pcb and transponders transfered to my existing fob, and everything has been fine since. No reprogramming is needed - only if a brand new ecu is fitted to use with your existing keys.
If yours has similar symptoms, and you change the ECU, then any replacement needs to be the same Ident lettering, as there are different ones relative to model /trim / alarm
It necessitated the headlining removal to adequately carry out the sunroof drain repair without damaging the headlining itself.
Whether water ingress is your cause has to be worth checking, especially with the recent wet weather we've been recently experiencing....
There are topics on this issue if you search on here.
Seemed to get worse during very wet weather.
With the advise of 'cam-in-head', plus a fair degree of head scratching, it was traced to a previous water ingress issue in the drivers kick panel area causing damage to the central locking ecu. Mine was primarily as a result of previous water ingress problem from a broken pipe from the offside sunroof drain - the water was running across the headlining and behind the A pillar trim , down behind the door stay into drivers side footwell. Once I replaced the broken connector from the sunroof drain, I replaced the c/l ECU with a known used one with the pcb and transponders transfered to my existing fob, and everything has been fine since. No reprogramming is needed - only if a brand new ecu is fitted to use with your existing keys.
If yours has similar symptoms, and you change the ECU, then any replacement needs to be the same Ident lettering, as there are different ones relative to model /trim / alarm
It necessitated the headlining removal to adequately carry out the sunroof drain repair without damaging the headlining itself.
Whether water ingress is your cause has to be worth checking, especially with the recent wet weather we've been recently experiencing....