Welcome to OOF
The red screw should have a sort of two pronged retainer on it - it just pushes back in and then screws in.Oh okay ,I thought I need to refit this because I found this near my car
If water is still coming out you need to check it still has both of it's rubber O-rings intact. If not then I think they're 4mmx2mm..
It really does take at least fifteen goes to get all the muck out, but glad you're seeing a noticeable improvementGuess I will need to buy more dishwasher tabs . Thanks again for the help, you saved me alot of $ on changing the hoses probably every 1k km if the oil would still circulate in the coolant
1.Take the expansion tank off and put in dishwasher.I can't thank you enough for this reply. I just got time to do this today and already my car can atleast cool the engine properly without overheating. It still drains greyish/yellowish water out of the system, but I do believe more drainig cycles tomorrow will surely clean all that's left.
2.Remove, clean and refit the temp senders and radiator thermo switches, 2 of each.
3.Add two dishwasher tablets to the expansion tank and two to the radiator top hose.
Run upto temp, drain flush as per guides and repeat 3 until the crud is gone. Probably 15-20 times.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR AT THIS POINT.
Then do two further flushes with clean water only.
AGAIN DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR FOR THIS.
Then drain, repeat 1 and 2 then refill with correct coolant mix.
NOW USE THE CAR NORMALLY FOR A WEEK.
Drain again and refill with correct mix. Should now be sorted
Note... Leave the Climate Control set to LO on both sides/Heater knob on min/blue(depends on age/spec) for first ten flushes, then on HI/max red for the remainder. That way you should avoid sludging up the heater matrix.
Removing/cleaning the header tank allows you to better monitor the amount of muck left in the system...
There is a very effective way of blasting the crud out of the cooling system, but, in no particular order...
You will get scalded/burnt.
It makes a hell of a mess.
It's probably illegal outside China.
... hence not including it in the process above
It basically involes getting the engine upto temp with a hosepipe connected to either the radiator drain outlet or the small overflow hose to the expansion tank, then removing the cap. You do this at your own risk though, as it is probably very retarded/dangerous/illegal/messy*
*delete/highlight as required.
I personally would not run cold water through a warmed up engine.The header tank is connected to the central heating? Also I don't think this method will work for me cause I need to push a high pressure of water through the system to get rid of all the coolant and oil mixture
I disconnected the pipe from the throttle body that runs to the header tank and I hooked it around the bonnet bracket to keep it higher than the tank.
I then connected a piece of hose pipe to the throttle body and let it hang down over the wing onto the floor.
Then I ran a hosepipe from the tap into the header tank. It's best to have a means of slowing the water down into the header tank to stop it overflowing.
Switch the heater on high and start the engine and it should, as far as I know, flush the engine and the heater matrix through but not the rad because the thermal state will still be closed.
Please feel free anyone if you don't agree with this. But this is what I have done recently.
Hope this helps.
Andy
Is the dimmer wheel on R/H side of main lightswitch set correctYes, i tried rooling it low and hi many times, does nothing
