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Messages - octanejunkie

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1
Well in case anyone was wondering. Minifreek got it right. The cam sensor had been changed to the version which requires the wiring to be modded. Connections were not great which is what was causing the fault.
No further issues!  :y

2
Omega General Help / Re: Head Gasket
« on: 09 August 2014, 15:43:22 »
Are there signs of oil mixing with water (light brown milky fluid) in the header tank, or on the oil dipstick? If its losing fluids, they have to be going somewhere..
Does the car have smelly white smoke from the exhaust, even when fully warmed up? This will indicate coolant getting into the cylinders and burning off. Drips from the exhaust back box are condensation inside the exhaust, and certainly no indication of head gasket failure.
Also, the v6's are quite prone to getting a bit of sludge around the filler cap, its quite normal.
For clarification, did you overheat the car? If so, how bad/how long?
As others have said, the oil cooler is prime candidate for oil/water mixing.
IF you have blown the head gasket, then it is quite an involved, time consuming job, but not desperately complicated. The worst bit is getting the engine timed up properly when fitting the new belt.
Costs involved will be a new gasket set, a timing belt kit, skimming the heads, spark plugs, oil and filter, fresh coolant. Lets say that lot will be somewhere in the region of £400, plus there is the labour. I personally would allow a full day, possibly longer to do this job. A garage might quote you 6-8 hours maybe..
If the heads need skimming (which is a good possibility after an overheat), you may well have to take all the valves etc out.
Plus there is the danger of snapping exhaust bolts, and other unforeseen dilemmas.
If this all sounds a bit doom and gloom, well, it should. Omegas are not worth a great deal even in great condition and full running order.
There will be those who are the type that'll keep a car forever and fork out for the job.
Then there will be those who might choose to chuck another complete, good engine in there. That is, if the rest of the car is really good with no rot and sound drive train.
It pains me to say that the most practical course of action is to perhaps buy another sound car, and maybe swap around good bits from yours and sell on parts from the other to recoup the investment.

Having said all that and depressed the hell out of you, there is still a good chance it might be something relatively simple like the aforementioned oil cooler..
How attached are you to that particular car...?

3
Right, another fault has reared its head this afternoon..
Since rectifying the cam sensor fault, i've been running about in the car happily all day with no issues. However, this afternoon i go to start it, and when it fires up it is lumpy. If you put your foot down, it just bogs down and stutters around 2800-3000 rpm. Lift your foot to around quarter throttle and she'll rev ok. Try to coast on a light throttle and it stutters and misfires too. At idle it is threatening to stall, and hunting badly.
There is no eml showing.
This car is doing my head in now!!!  :(

4
Omega General Help / Re: rear wheel arch rust help
« on: 09 August 2014, 12:35:33 »
The only real way to get rid of rust is to cut it out, and replace with fresh metal. Cleaning, treating, waxoyl etc, will slow it down a good deal, but it will continue to break down the metal..
For things like stone chips or minor issues where the rust hasn't penetrated, a good quality inhibitor followed by primer, and then paint should be a lasting solution. The surface must be bone dry underneath though, as any residual moisture will continue oxidising and eventually lift the paint after a year or so.
Do not brush paint, always spray. Even if it looks like an even cover, it won't be and moisture will find its way through the brush strokes and get back in.
Don't leave rust repairs in primer or matt paint either as it's porous, and again, moisture will get back in, and you'll be back to square one again!

5
Well, the code i got up was "0340" which is, i think camshaft position sensor.
I had a look under the bonnet, and it looks like someone has been there before. On the wiring to the sensor, it looks to have been chopped and remade. When i went online looking for sensors, i came across a few that come with a piece of wiring harness. Perhaps that's what's been fitted here at some point.
Today when i started the car from cold the eml came on. I did a short journey, stopped, wiggled the wires around a bit, restarted it and the light went out and the car ran ok... Dodgy connection perhaps? In my past experience on other cars, when camshaft sensors go tits up they normally stop working when the engine is hot, and give hot start problems.
Has anyone else had cam sensor problems, and how did they manifest themselves?
The connections where the wiring has been split appear to have been done well, and neatly with glue filled heat shrink.
Advice please??

6
Doesn't feel or sound like its running on three, just general "wooliness".
The pump i'm referring to is the secondary air pump i think, down near the passenger front wheel.

7
As the title suggests, i'm having an issue with my Omega.
1997 2.0 16v manual.

Sometimes i'll start it, and it'll run sweet as a nut with no issues whatsoever.

Sometimes i'll start it, and the EML light comes on. Idle becomes slightly erratic, and the car drops in power. There will also be noticeable pops or backfires coming from the exhaust on up changes.

My code reader won't read the codes from a car this old, so i'll have to do the paperclip test.
On an Omega of this vintage, am i looking at double digit codes or four digit codes?

When the car is cold, is it normal for the the pump to be whirring for a bit down behind the bumper on the passenger side?

Any ideas??

8
Newbie Welcome Area / Hello!
« on: 08 August 2014, 12:19:00 »
Hi guys.
Jon from Somerset here.
I've got myself an Omega as a run around for a while. Had quite a few Vauxhalls over the years when funds are tight, and they've always done me proud.
My Omega is a 1997 2.0 CD manual. A mere 54,000 miles from new, in a charcoal grey colour, and it drives like new as well (almost). No rot, no dings, a very tidy car.
Look forward to talking to you on here in the coming weeks  ;)

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