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Try the 'quick repair' option. Sometimes works, sometimes not.......
Make sure the coolant is cold. Take off the header tank cap, stick your finger in and waggle the float like mad for a few seconds.
Did it on my estate, and its never returned.
The sensor is located under the coolant expansion tank. Mine's broken too, but didn't find a new one or any info about how to remove it. There is new coolant tanks for sale with new sensors, but, if you want to save money like I did, just unconnect the sensor plug and put a jumpwire to it, so the message will go away.
Yes the rad infront of the main coolant rad. Being right at the front they are susceptible to the effects of road salt.
My Aircon went down over a year ago, and I don't know, that what could be the cause of it. The switch works, tested that one out and the fuse is ok. Compressor don't go on, when I press the button. Could it be, that the aircon liquid has escaped ? The aircon pipes under the front bumber have rusted quite a bit, so I might suspect, thet it's leaked off from there. Any thoughts ?
Condenser is the likely fault
About those rollers, I didn't change them in the last belt change, so I'm kinda in a nervous situation, been driving for over 100 000 km with those rollers and the change limit is 60 000 km.Yes, its the idlers and tensioner (especially) that goes, so you're on borrowed time. Never change just the belt on the V6But, I'm gonna change the whole set in this autumn.
Maybe I have just been lucky till now.
I'll always order my cambelt kits from Germany, because, you can get quality stuff from there much more cheaper. Last time I ordered cambelt for my gf's G-Astra and it was brilliant, Continental kit and they know, how to make those. Not any squeaking or problems with it and the parts were high quality. Gonna go for that for my Omega too. They even had said, that they're gonna make cambelt, that can last for car's entire lifetime.The cambelt probably would last a car's lifetime (probably lifetime = 150,000km). But on the Omega, its the idler bearings and tensioner that gives up first, causing the cambelt to go too loose, causing 24 bent valves
But, I'm gonna change the whole set in this autumn.
What you report would be consistent with the climate panel thinking the car is hotter than it really is. I.e. there's a transition from full cooling to full heating between 27 and HI, and what you are hearing is the blending flap moving across its' full travel. Air direction between the floor, defrost and face vents also changes depending on whether the system is heating or cooling, so I think that aspect is normal.
You can see the temperature probe outputs in the live data using a tech 2. I appreciate you're a little far away, but if you can get it to someone with a Tech 2, that would shed some more light on the problem, I'm sure.
